Quality Card -- Suggestions?

[Jsk]

What do experienced card models use for scratch building?

 

I started a quick proof of concept build but didn't have any materials on hand. Perusing a popular buy-anything-you-want-and-have-it-delivered-almost-before-you've-hit-the-buy-button site I ordered some 1/16 inch thick mat board thinking that is should be fairly good for card modeling. It arrived with a built in warp and I almost sent it back. Probably should have. It wasn't even accurate in its thickness. And I've discovered that it de-laminates in a soft breeze. Once you've cut though the outer surface the layers inside aren't much more cohesive than dryer lint.

 

But the problem when ordering things on-line is that you simply can't trust the descriptions or even the reviews. I decided to just get on with the build. I know I'm going to regret it but this is just a proof of concept. At least... that's what I keep telling myself.

 

So, in order to turn lemons into lemonade: What materials have you used that have worked well? What card stocks or other materials have been a joy to work with? Do you have favorite sources?

 

TIA

 

Not bad from a distance:

But, oh, so curvaceous:

[Harvey Golden]

I use a lot of card & paper on my scratch models-- often just stock pulled from the recycling bin, so I don't even know the types, etc. Naturally, I often have the curving issues you show.  I often will glue on strips of wood to straighten them out-- sort of like deck beams, glued to the upper face of the bulkheads.  This straightens (and strengthens) them and also provides a thicker base for gluing a deck down.  That's just my solution; hopefully a true connoisseur of things paper can chime in. Best, H-

[ccoyle]

I have avoided this issue by gravitating almost entirely to kits that include the option to order laser-cut frames. In the past, when I have need to create my own frames, I have used one of two methods: 1. Laminating sheets of ordinary card to create stock of the desired thickness (somewhat laborious, but works well). 2. Using chipboard (the stuff used for backing on scratch pads) -- not my preferred method, since chipboard cuts like stone. Either of those methods will also produce some curling issues, which are likely due to the type glue you use rather than an issue with the stock itself. For laminating parts sheets to thicker stock, avoid water-based glues. I use 3M spray adhesive for that purpose -- and avoid the cheaper stuff, which often produces clumpy spray patterns.

 

Cheers!

[Richard44]

I came across this website which sells card for models - there may well be other sites as well.

 

https://papermodeling.net/index.php?route=product/category&path=79_86&page=2

 

Edit. Found another. 

https://modelik.pl/tektury-astralon-c-101.html

 

Cheers

Edited December 24, 2023 by Richard44

[GrandpaPhil]

I use whatever I find.

Posterboard works well for me

 

The best quality card that I’ve found was actually those giant 2’ by 3’ Valentine cards that people buy for gag gifts.

 

I’m using a cereal box and a couple snack cake boxes for my newest build.

Edited December 24, 2023 by GrandpaPhil

[amateur]

In Germany they quite often use a material called ‘finnpappe’. Unfortunatedky, almost non-available outside that country. Cuts better than grayboard, and does not delaminate. 
No idea whether there is a US-variety available. (Don’t think so, even unknown here, and we are not so far from Germany ….)

Jan.

[ccoyle]

4 hours ago, amateur said:

In Germany they quite often use a material called ‘finnpappe’.

 

https://www.mr-beam.org/en/blogs/news/was-ist-finnpappe

[GrandpaPhil]

I use a THIN layer of monte mart PVA on my parts for layering up and then put them between sheets of glass to dry to minimize curling.

As you can see, you can barely see the glue.

 

It adheres well and ends up with only minimal curling, if any, which can then be worked out prior to installation.

 

That’s a Hobeycomb cereal box.

[Jsk]

Thanks, everyone. I've started collecting bits and pieces of card from the kitchen recycling bin but I'm always tempted to try and find the 'perfect' cardboard. Some good suggestions here.

 

The admiral just rolls her eyes! Especially when I remind her that it's still cheaper than golf!

[wefalck]

I don't think there is one type of card that fulfills all the requirements one may have. I hasten to add that I am not 'cardboard-modeller', but I use card in my models. This is a huge difference. Cardboard-modellers, at least those working from kits, do not normally paint or otherwise surface-coat their models, while I do.

 

A key question is: do you care about acidity and cheap wood in the cardboard or don't you care about the longevity of your model. A lot of cheap cardboard in not neutralised in terms of pH and, therefore, the material may/will disintegrate with time.

 

I would always go for high-quality material from artist supply shops.

 

Personally, I prefer high-density papers that have been calandred heavily (i.e. pressed strongly between steel rollers) to give a smooth surface. The name to look out for is Bristol-board, which is available in different thicknesses, i.e. different weights per sqm.

 

Unfortunately, my cheapo 3W laser-printer cannot handle white dense paper. The best solution I found is dark-brown 'Canson'-paper. This is less dense than Bristol-board, but still has a reasonably smooth surface.

 

In fact, I create a sort of composite material by soaking the Canson-paper in varnish. Other people use thin CA glue, but I am not fond of CA. The varnish gives the paper a limited capability to be sanded. One may need to resoak the paper at the sanded edges to stabilise them and reduce the 'fuzz'.

 

[Jsk]

I'm not terribly concerned about longevity of my card models. A five to ten year lifespan is really all I desire (for the models!). I'm sure by that time I'll want the space for some other project and--at least for now--my skill level is not so advanced that anyone else would want them. To be honest, the build is more enjoyable to me than the end product.

 

Would shellac work the same way as varnish to stiffen card? I tend to avoid CA, too, and anything with strong fumes is going to be an issue in my home (The Admiral has respiratory issues). I've been looking for some way to seal the card models that is not aerosol or water based. I was looking at 'Clear, dewaxed' shellac flakes and wondering if it would be worth experimenting. I think the alcohol base should evaporate quickly enough to avoid problems and I don't think it would affect the paper. Since I just purchased a cheap laser printer I don't think ink bleed due to the alcohol will be an issue, either. But I'm not sure there would be any real advantage.

[wefalck]

Shellac solution has been used for centuries to stiffen paper. You will have to experiment with the right alcohol to shellac ratio. I use a thick solution as glue.

[Roger Pellett]

I used shellac impregnated paper for the shell plating on the Steamship model that I am building.  It worked great!   I just sprayed it with zinser shellac from a spray can.  It did not react with the PVA glue that I used to cement the paper plating to the wood hull.

 

Roger

Edited February 8 by Roger Pellett

[Jsk]

Thanks, all. Sounds like I'm going to have to experiment.