Retired Sailor, New Modeler. Need help with metal work.

[CaptJoe]

Just started modeling.  Got the three-vessel starter kit and finished the dory. Lot's of learning there, mostly, make sure the base is secure and properly positioned or EVERYTHING goes sideways.  I'm just finishing the hull on the Norwegian Sailing Pram.  The instructions for this boat seem to be much less comprehensive.  The metal work (on the tiller assembly) is really making things difficult.  Anyone have any pointers for hammering the end of a wire into a "mushroom" for a rivet?  So far, I've bent one wire and split two pieces of wood.  This is far more difficult than portrayed in the instructions.  Thanks!!!

[CaptJoe]

Below is the present state of the model.

[Keith Black]

 Joe, if you add 'Norwegian Sailing Pram' in the search box on the MSW's home page there are many Pram build logs. I'm sure if you explore those logs you'll find see how others have handled that issue. 

[Roger Pellett]

I am not familiar with the kit but here are some thoughts:

 

Wood;  The usual wood supplied in kits is Basswood, a nice wood to carve but low strength and soft.  Splits easily.  Substitute stronger wood.  Maple would be a choice.

 

Riveting;  The idea is to deform the point.  If you are using wire, what is the material?  Copper should be easier to form than brass.  I would start by forming the head.  This is best done off the model possibly just a hole in a block of hard wood.  Tap with a hammer until it forms.

 

The other end of the rivet is called a point.  With the rivet pushed through work piece, just enough of the other end should protrude to allow forming a head.  Too much and it will just bend over.  It is customary to back the point up with a washer called a Rove.  The rove allows you to hammer the point into a head without splitting the wood.

 

Roger

[CaptJoe]

Checked the build logs, and a couple reported a similar problem, but no one mentioned any type of solution or recommendation.  I'm surprised there aren't more articles on some of the basic metal fabrication processes.  For the tiller arm, it would be easy to just cut the wire flush and glue it in on both sides.  But the extension handle must rotate, so that's not an option.  

[Dziadeczek]

1 hour ago, CaptJoe said:

Just started modeling.  Got the three-vessel starter kit and finished the dory. Lot's of learning there, mostly, make sure the base is secure and properly positioned or EVERYTHING goes sideways.  I'm just finishing the hull on the Norwegian Sailing Pram.  The instructions for this boat seem to be much less comprehensive.  The metal work (on the tiller assembly) is really making things difficult.  Anyone have any pointers for hammering the end of a wire into a "mushroom" for a rivet?  So far, I've bent one wire and split two pieces of wood.  This is far more difficult than portrayed in the instructions.  Thanks!!!

 

Perhaps this technique (shown some time ago in this Forum) could yield satisfying results?

 

He is making small brass nails from brass wire, but the heads appear the same as for rivets. Try it.

[CaptJoe]

For some reason, the audio is not working, and I can't tell how this method works. Cutting wire with dull implement creates the heads?

[druxey]

Has the wire been annealed (softened) by heating to red heat and allowed to cool? It won't 'mushroom' if still hard.

[Keith Black]

 IMHO the most simple solution is to use a small round head brass nail and cut it to the desired length. If needed you can file the head diameter down to a smaller diameter. You can also file the head flat if desired. 

 

Edited January 10, 2024 by Keith Black

[DanB]

I think when I built the Pram  I held the wire with a pair of fine nose pliers and used a small hammer to tap the end of it a bit.  At some point the instructions tell you to get one of those flat metal plates that  jewelry makers use. I  may have used that to  press against.  You do not need the wire to expand to much, just enough to keep the “rivet” in the hole in the  tiller. A lot of folks in different building longs had difficulty with the tiller on the Pram. I think it’s pretty thin and splits easily, you need to be gentle with the pin vise when you drill the hole.  Search for the Pram and look at a few build logs. Good luck on your Pram

 

Dan

[Dziadeczek]

22 hours ago, druxey said:

Has the wire been annealed (softened) by heating to red heat and allowed to cool? It won't 'mushroom' if still hard.

I haven't done it myself, so I don't know how it goes. From the video it appears that the wire was not annealed, he is taking it straight from the bundle. Unless the whole thing was annealed in the factory...

Perhaps someone will try it and let us know?

[knightyo]

I do it the same way as portrayed in the video, but the tool that works best for me is the edge of my steel ruler.  It takes a little while to get the knack, but once  you have it, you can create them very quickly

 

Alan

[Roger Pellett]

If you have any sort of small torch, there’s an interesting and useful trick that you can perform.  Hold a piece of brass wire vertically with a pair of pliers.  Heat the lower end of the wire.  Just before it melts it will form a ball.  One end of your rivet.

 

Roger

[gsdpic]

On 1/9/2024 at 8:33 PM, CaptJoe said:

For some reason, the audio is not working, and I can't tell how this method works. Cutting wire with dull implement creates the heads?

If you click on the "cc" to get closed captioning, it will show text that better explains it, but your conclusion is basically correct.

[Dr PR]

Another source of small "nails" or "rivets" is jewelry making supplies at a crafts store. I noticed some long brass pins with flat heads at Michaels. However, the heads were 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) or larger.

[Roger Pellett]

I too enjoy browsing stores like Michaels to find things that can be adapted for building models.  Unfortunately, a lot of the “brass” nails, pins and such turn out to be brass plated steel.

 

Roger