Bill97 Posted August 22 Author Share #151 Posted August 22 Anchors made. Also completed rigging the helm. Pleased that it actually moves the rudder. Veszett Roka, Hubac's Historian and Ian_Grant 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpalmer1970 Posted August 23 Share #152 Posted August 23 Looking very good! Quote -‐-‐-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Current Build Hayling Hoy 1760 - First POF scratch build Completed HMB Endeavour's Longboat by Artesania Latina Completed HM Armed Cutter Alert by Vanguard Models Completed 18ft cutter and 34ft launch by Vanguard Models Completed Pen Duick by Artesania Latina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 24 Author Share #153 Posted August 24 Any of you guys know what this builder is using for gluing? I see this is a number of videos. It looks like a great product for spot quick glue placement. Does not appear there is an issue with the tip clogging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Le Wol Posted August 24 Share #154 Posted August 24 Hi Bill, he is using something like these. I bought them at Lee Valley when I was picking up some Starbond CA. They don’t clog but every so often you have to cut a bit off of the tip Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Regards……..Paul Completed Builds Glad Tidings Model Shipways. - Nordland Boat. Billings Boats . - HM Cutter Cheerful-1806 Syren Model Ship Company. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 24 Author Share #155 Posted August 24 Thanks Paul. Paul Le Wol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted August 29 Author Share #156 Posted August 29 A few more additions to my Endeavour. Added the anchors, stern lantern, and the lifeboat. Wow it was a crowded deck! jpalmer1970, Ian_Grant and Hubac's Historian 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 6 Author Share #157 Posted September 6 (edited) Ok my friends I have an update and a question. I have added the 10 small cannons around the exterior of the deck. With this addition I have pretty much completed the construction of the hull, deck, and items on the deck. Looking back to my start I have thoroughly enjoyed building this wooden ship. As I now start the turning of all the different mast pieces and yards I am struck by the way OcCre shows to do the end of the bowsprit. On all my previous builds the deck end of bowsprit has been tapered to give the appearance that it passes through the deck and is anchored below deck. The OcCre instructions show the end of the bow split being simply anchored under the forecastle bitt. Would this have been correct? Does not seem this would have been adequate under the extreme pressure the bowsprit endured. I have searched on line for photos that show this part of the replica to no avail. What are your thoughts? Edited September 6 by Bill97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 6 Author Share #158 Posted September 6 My make shift lathe complete with hands free foot pedal for turning my mast sections and yards. Kevin-the-lubber and Hubac's Historian 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 6 Author Share #159 Posted September 6 Kevin what is your thoughts about the bowsprit end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin-the-lubber Posted September 6 Share #160 Posted September 6 In what sense, Bill? Taper-wise? Quote Kevin https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop Current projects: HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/ Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196 Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 6 Author Share #161 Posted September 6 How the end is prepared? As in the instructions or tapered to give the appearance it passes through the deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 6 Author Share #162 Posted September 6 Never mind Kevin. I decided on tapering to give the appearance of passing through the deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Grant Posted September 6 Share #163 Posted September 6 Bill, that certainly looks much better than Occre's butt end just sitting there. From the Occre diagram extract, the bowsprit heel would meet the foremast above deck. I assume you increased the steeve (angle) of the bowsprit for it to plunge through the deck ahead of the foremast. Perhaps Occre got the steeve wrong and someone didn't know what to do..... On the other hand, look at the picture of the replica below. The bowsprit certainly looks like it would meet the foremast above deck....🤔 Did you check other build logs? Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Grant Posted September 6 Share #164 Posted September 6 Me again. Check out this pic I found; zooming in shows that Occre is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin-the-lubber Posted September 6 Share #165 Posted September 6 Sorry about the lack of response Bill, a young chap just sent his little motorbike into a hedge in our road when I was about to look at your photo, and once it was clear he was okay I had the pleasure (really, I loved it!) of straightening out all the bent and broken bits on the bike. Took me back 40 years, to what back then seemed to be a weekly occurence. 🙂 Anyway, I was going to say tapered to go through the deck, but as Ian shows, that would have been wrong. I can't see how it's held in place on the real thing but imagine there must be a hefty lump of something pinning it down. That is one bluff prow, isn't it. That also takes me back but nearer 50 years, I remember that shape on the airfix kit now. Quote Kevin https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop Current projects: HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/ Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196 Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 6 Author Share #166 Posted September 6 Thanks Ian and Kevin. Kevin no need to apologize. From your replies I may need to remake the lower section of my bowsprit. What is your honest opinion? Mine is dry fitted so no issue with remaking it. Yes Ian as you can determine from my photos I did increase the steeve to give the appearance it passed through the deck. I spent a good amount of time looking at other build logs and replica photos. The one you found Ian is the best showing the bowsprit end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubac's Historian Posted September 6 Share #167 Posted September 6 The pictures Ian posted appear to be of a second steel-hull replica. Various aspects of this design appear to be simplified. The wooden replica, I believe, is more authentically constructed from the original plans. I am having trouble finding good pics of this replica’s fore deck, but maybe you can find some answers here: Quote We are all works in progress, all of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 6 Author Share #168 Posted September 6 Marc what do you think I should do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubac's Historian Posted September 6 Share #169 Posted September 6 (edited) What you have done to raise the steve and create the appearance of piercing the fore deck looks more plausible than a butt-ended bowsprit nestled between the fore bitts. The end of a bowsprit, in actual practice for sea-going ships, usually had a square tenon that keys into a heavy balk of timber (itself, secured between the lower legs of the fore bitts), before the foremast. With your present arrangement, I can at least believe something like that is happening below deck. Edited September 6 by Hubac's Historian Quote We are all works in progress, all of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipaholic Posted September 6 Share #170 Posted September 6 Hi Bill Re your question about the bowsprit here are the drawings in Marquardt's AOTS book, plus a picture of the Replica vessel but the base of the bowsprit is obscured by ropes, The are both the same. Also a photo of the base of the bowsprit on my Endeavour Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Current Build: HMB Endeavour 1:51 (Eaglemoss part work)Previous Builds: USS Constitution (Revell plastic) HMS Victory 1:96 (Corel) HMB Endeavour 1:60 (AL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 7 Author Share #171 Posted September 7 (edited) Thanks Shipaholic. I looked in my AOTS (which I had not thought about looking in before) and see the same photo you have. It appears that a section of the bottom is tapered. Not the whole thing under the bitt. Interesting. That is some beautiful rigging in the close up. Great job. Would you have a photo from the foremast side of the bitt? Did you just taper the bottom half of the end so part of the round bowsprit end is still exposed under the bitt? Edited September 7 by Bill97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 7 Author Share #172 Posted September 7 (edited) Thanks Marc. Shipaholic’s definitely matches what is shown in AOTS. “The end of a bowsprit, in actual practice for sea-going ships, usually had a square tenon that keys into a heavy balk of timber (itself, secured between the lower legs of the fore bitts” Trying to visualize the carpentry of what you said above. Are you saying the actual practice was for there to be a solid balk of timber filling the space under the bitt and that bulk of timber had a square hole cut in it to accept the square tenon on the end of the bowsprit? Looking at the top photo from AOTS that shopaholic attached you can see the end of the bowsprit with the tenon carved into it and the bottom portion of the end of the bowsprit is shaved off to be flush with the deck. I can do this. I really need to refer more to my AOTS book I spent so much for 😊 Edited September 7 by Bill97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubac's Historian Posted September 7 Share #173 Posted September 7 (edited) Hi Bill - what Shipaholic has shown, here, is essentially what I was talking about, it’s just set-up above the foredeck. I would go with that Edited September 7 by Hubac's Historian Quote We are all works in progress, all of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Grant Posted September 7 Share #174 Posted September 7 Bill; as always, consult Longridge. Plate 31 shows the heel of Victory's bowsprit tenoned (though you can't see it) to a rather massive timber upright "attached to deck beams above and below". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 8 Author Share #175 Posted September 8 Ok. New bowsprit made in accordance with ATOS. I filled the area in the forecastle bitt with wood and carved a hole at deck level to accept the tenon on the end of the bowsprit. jpalmer1970, Ian_Grant and Hubac's Historian 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 10 Author Share #176 Posted September 10 Shipaholic I am so impressed with the rigging of the heart blocks in your photo. I am looking everywhere I can think of for some sort of tutorial on how to do it. You have any idea where I can find something. Or, if not too much trouble, possibly tell me how you do it. Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipaholic Posted September 13 Share #177 Posted September 13 Hi Bill I can't remember exactly what I used to make the heart blocks, it was a few years ago and there have been many blocks done since then. I have accumulated quite a collection of different blocks over the years from different sources, previous builds and blocks I have purchased. Anyway I always have sanded blocks to get the correct shape then lacquered each one. The hearts I sanded to the correct shape and also made the cavity correct using needle files. I have a lot of reference books on rigging and also lots of photos of the Endeavour replica here in Australia to use as reference. Anyway here are a few pics for you. Steve Hubac's Historian and Ian_Grant 1 1 Quote Current Build: HMB Endeavour 1:51 (Eaglemoss part work)Previous Builds: USS Constitution (Revell plastic) HMS Victory 1:96 (Corel) HMB Endeavour 1:60 (AL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipaholic Posted September 13 Share #178 Posted September 13 Quote Current Build: HMB Endeavour 1:51 (Eaglemoss part work)Previous Builds: USS Constitution (Revell plastic) HMS Victory 1:96 (Corel) HMB Endeavour 1:60 (AL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted September 13 Author Share #179 Posted September 13 (edited) Thanks shipaholic. These are great. I was more talking about the beautiful serving and worming of the block in the photo. But all these photos are helping me. Also helpful in determining the order the 3 hearts and 2 deadeyes go in. I tried a few different things and here is what I have so far. May go back and shape the actual blocks as you did. Thanks again. Edited September 13 by Bill97 Hubac's Historian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipaholic Posted September 14 Share #180 Posted September 14 Hi Bill Sorry I misunderstood your question. A lot of my ropes are served. I have a Domanov serving machine. I used sewing cotton because none of the ropes supplied by Occre are suitable - all too thick and fuzzy. I didn't use any of the Occre rope, I either purchased it from Syren Model Ship, made my own with my ropewalk or used different sewing threads. I wanted to get all my ropes the correct scale thickness Cheers Steve Hubac's Historian and Ian_Grant 2 Quote Current Build: HMB Endeavour 1:51 (Eaglemoss part work)Previous Builds: USS Constitution (Revell plastic) HMS Victory 1:96 (Corel) HMB Endeavour 1:60 (AL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.