Roar Ege by Scottish Guy - Billing Boats - 1:25

[Jaager]

Micha,

Any of the four varieties of PVA: white, yellow,  yellow water resistant, yellow water proof  - produce a bond that is similar in strength - not enough difference (if any) to shelve what you have now.  With any of it    the wood will probably tear apart at the bond before the PVA gives way.

I have the thought that Gorilla yellow is Tightbond II with a different label.  Gorilla white is probably Elmer's white, Titebond clear with a different label. 

 

The significant difference with PVA is  the more resistant to water it is the more acidic it is 

 

white = pH 4.5 - 5.5

I =  pH 3.5-4.5

II = pH 3.0

III =  pH 2.5-3.5

 

Not any water when dry - so no hydrogen ions crashing around -  It will out gas acetic acid but so do some species of wood - which is only something to consider if the model is in a case with no ventilation or if there are fittings with Lead as part of the mix.

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, Scottish Guy said:

Thank you Keith, I would like to know what kind of glue to use for the keel / stems and support / frame assembly.

 Micha, I would use PVA on the above and CA for the planking.

Edited April 9 by Keith Black

[Scottish Guy]

9 hours ago, Jaager said:

Micha,

Any of the four varieties of PVA: white, yellow,  yellow water resistant, yellow water proof  - produce a bond that is similar in strength - not enough difference (if any) to shelve what you have now.  With any of it    the wood will probably tear apart at the bond before the PVA gives way.

I have the thought that Gorilla yellow is Tightbond II with a different label.  Gorilla white is probably Elmer's white, Titebond clear with a different label. 

 

The significant difference with PVA is  the more resistant to water it is the more acidic it is 

 

white = pH 4.5 - 5.5

I =  pH 3.5-4.5

II = pH 3.0

III =  pH 2.5-3.5

 

Not any water when dry - so no hydrogen ions crashing around -  It will out gas acetic acid but so do some species of wood - which is only something to consider if the model is in a case with no ventilation or if there are fittings with Lead as part of the mix.

 

Hi Jaager,

 

thank you for this very detailed comment. I`m honest, I never dived in that deep into glues that I knew all the differences. Since I only will display the model in a diorama, no case or anything around it, in a well aired room, I doubt that any of those points would make a difference. But I still would go for the white PVA glue. I don´t need all the specialties to withstand water or moisture, don`t need it to be extra strong or quick drying.

 

Micha

Edited April 9 by Scottish Guy

[Scottish Guy]

9 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Micha, I would use PVA on the above and CA for the planking.

 

Thank you Keith for this precise answer, this is what I was hopeing for. Doing a scale model is different than building some furniture or building a swing and slide in the garden. Don`t get me wrong, I did already small items and fixed those as well but nothing that has such an elegance or look like a scale model. Therefore I never really thought about different glues when working with wood.

Life is a steady learning path, every day something new to learn. I love this challenge of life.

 

Micha

Edited April 9 by Scottish Guy

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter One *

Repairs

 

Since some of the parts got damaged by cutting them out of the sheets I have to repair them first. I try it by glueing them with CA glue, wrapped in cling foil and clamped to secure the lose parts.

 

 

Here is Part 9F which is the second rip from the stem.

 

    

 

 

This is Part 7F which is the fourth rip from the stem, it got stuck by pushing it out of the sheet. Unfortunately it twisted and by twisting it back the corner broke off. I used CA glue to fixate it to the main part, wrapped it with cling foil and clamped it. Will give it 24h to dry out.

 

    

 

 

The last part that was broken was the keel from the stem to the middle of the ship. I also used CA glue to fixate the two parts together. Then I used PVA glue to put the two keel parts from the stem together and clamped them. Therefore I give the flimsy keel part some support with the second (identical) keel part.

 

    

 

 

I also glued the stern keel parts together, so when all the keel parts are dried I can assemble the keel and put the two support boards onto the middle of the keel.

 

    

 

Thank you all for taking the time to look at the LOG. I hope the pictures are ok and the steps I´m doing are so far ok. Please keep in mind that is the first wooden ship I´m building. If someone spots mistakes or errors in my way to work, please let me know.

 

Micha

 

Edited April 9 by Scottish Guy

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter One *

 

Repairs Part Two

 

 

I checked today my repairs. They look somewhat good but by checking on them I noticed that Part 2A is set off after glueing it.

 

 

 

The strange thing is that the offset is different on the front and the end, like the double Part 2A twisted off as I put the clamps on. Unfortunately I didn´t notice it because of the cling film I used to wrap it in.

 

    

 

 

The repair of Part 1F which broke by cutting it out of the sheet went well, also the double sits good on the damaged Part 1F.

 

Now I´m considering to use the laser cut sheet to reproduce / copy the keel from a 2x1ft sheet of plywood with 6 mm thickness (which means I wouldn´t have to glue two identical parts onto each other (since the two parts are each 3 mm thick). Also I would cut the entire keel out of the plywood sheet, so the keel would be one piece instead glued out of four pieces (2x 1F and 2x 2A).

 

 

Would be interesting to get your opinion folks. Is it worth all of this work or should I just use the parts and sand them to a proper look? I think for stability reasons it would be advised anyway to have the keel in one piece as in four pieces glued together. The keel seems a bit flimsy and woobly. I still will glue on Part 3A / 3F to support the keel in the middle where the four parts are connected.

 

 

Micha

 

[Keith Black]

 I'd use the keel as is, the other two i might scab and glue with PVA thin pieces to either side of each. Sandpaper will easily remove any edge irregularities.   

[Richard44]

I'm with Keith on this. Use the existing pieces, but before committing, check how much you need to remove where the pieces aren't quite in alignment - it looks to be about 1mm or so. Dry fit a couple of the frames to see if the reduced height of the keel (assuming you do sand the lower/upper edges of the keel) affects their fit. If it looks like everything will be more or less "off", then a new keel from ply would be the answer.

 

Also, I've noticed that you wrapped everything in cling film while glueing and as you have found out, this can obscure what's happening with the glueing. You only need the cling film if there is a chance of accidentally glueing another piece to the two you are joining. You didn't need to use the cling film that shows in the following images. 

On 4/10/2024 at 4:44 AM, Scottish Guy said:

 

 

    

Cheers

Edited April 11 by Richard44

[Scottish Guy]

13 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 I'd use the keel as is, the other two i might scab and glue with PVA thin pieces to either side of each. Sandpaper will easily remove any edge irregularities.   

 

Thank you Keith

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

2 hours ago, Richard44 said:

I'm with Keith on this. Use the existing pieces, but before committing, check how much you need to remove where the pieces aren't quite in alignment - it looks to be about 1mm or so. Dry fit a couple of the frames to see if the reduced height of the keel (assuming you do sand the lower/upper edges of the keel) affects their fit. If it looks like everything will be more or less "off", then a new keel from ply would be the answer.

 

Thank you RIchard, this is already two voices for the use of the "misalignment" pieces. Will give it a go, will sand it down and do a dry fit, if it`s acceptable I just will use it. If it comes to become unacceptable I will cut out a new one, the 2x1ft sheet of 6 mm plywood is comeing anyway.

 

 

2 hours ago, Richard44 said:

Also, I've noticed that you wrapped everything in cling film while glueing and as you have found out, this can obscure what's happening with the glueing. You only need the cling film if there is a chance of accidentally glueing another piece to the two you are joining. You didn't need to use the cling film that shows in the following images. 

 

I thought it would be advisable for every glue but I understand that it isn´t especially not when there is a danger of misaligning them by doing so. Unfortunately I have to accept that I caused the misalignment by doing so and because of the wrap I couldn´t even see it or I could have corrected it before the drama happened.

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Two *

 

Change of Plans

 

Since reading through the forum while waiting for some materials I also found the poll about manufacturers and their material and plans etc. I couldn´t forbear that Billing Boats (which have been advised to me as beginners stuff) gets a huge slap into the face. There used materials as also the plans itself are not of the best quality at all. Unfortunately I have to admit that this is correct.

 

Tbh it`s not a slap into the face, it`s more likely a smash with a fence post into the face.

 

The flimsy sheets to cut out, the unsual double layer frame for the keel (why not use a 6 mm playwood sheet from the beginning instead of 2 layers of 3 mm each), the often not easy to read / understand instruction "leaflet" (to call it instructions or manual would be extravagant at its best).

 

Therefore I came to the conclusion that I will do some tweaks to my build. I did my research on the knarr models (like the Skuldeleve 3 - which is the origin of the Roar Ege). My conlusion lead me to the thoughts to do "two" models of it. I use 3 mm and 6 mm plywood for the remodelling (using the original shapes as stencil) to do new parts. I also will try it with thin sheets of cherry (I have quiet a lot of cherry wood here). I know this will make the build taking much longer but the outcome might be much nicer. I also will try to get hold of blueprints of the knarr / Skuldelev 3 to build it more accurate and authentic.

 

Beside this I will still build the Billing model so I will have somehow two models when I´m done. Not sure if I will / should open a new LOG for the new build, we will see how it goes. I will here definietely finish the Billing build.

 

Thank you all for following me on this funny journey but some folks told me, it can be frustrating to have a "failure" when starting with model building, but my inner me just is not frustrated but accepts the challenge.

 

Micha

Edited April 11 by Scottish Guy

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Why not build them "side-by-side" in one build log?  Like Raggedy Ann and Andy dolls (sewn together holding hands), they'll never get separated.  That is, future perusers might go through one log yet not see the other.

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Micha, I am glad that you have accepted the Billing challenge. It will turn out great!

[Scottish Guy]

52 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

Why not build them "side-by-side" in one build log?  Like Raggedy Ann and Andy dolls (sewn together holding hands), they'll never get separated.  That is, future perusers might go through one log yet not see the other.

 

Thank you Johnny, somehow you are right, I just should post both builds in here. Also might be easier than dealing with two different postsings and LOGs.

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

47 minutes ago, Paul Le Wol said:

Hi Micha, I am glad that you have accepted the Billing challenge. It will turn out great!

 

Thank you for your confidence about my building skills ^^, but I agree, I hope it will turn out well. For accepting the challenge, yes I do accept the challenge, it´s just confusing to realise that folks advised me Billing models as "beginner friendly".

 

I don´t think that this flimsy and woobly laser cut sheets are beginner friendly. The parts get stuck way to easy and brake by getting them off the sheets. Also I don´t understand why they do the two layer stuff? Why not use one piece for the keel, maybe two (one for the stem and one for the stern) but four pieces (two identical in a layer) just to support those with two additional parts on each side... but might be the keeping it cheap ideology, 3 mm plywood sheets are cheaper than a 6 mm sheet.

 

But yeah, I´m looking forward to it...

 

Micha

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

15 hours ago, Scottish Guy said:

 

Thank you Johnny, somehow you are right, I just should post both builds in here. Also might be easier than dealing with two different postsings and LOGs.

 

Micha

  Another reason for my interest ... I have this kit in my stash (as well as the Billings Oseberg), since the early 'Vikingskibbe' version in kit form was far more challenging (although the prow and stern were 'built up' just like the original), since al the parts had to be cut out - and the veneer stock in my inherited kit was so dry, warped/rippled and splitting like crazy, everything would have to be made from scratch.  Also, it was 1:20 scale - the Roar Ege AND the Oseberg are both 1:25 - sop can be displayed together.  The Roar Ege will be built first to gain experience with this type of ship, and I plan anyway to test-fit the stakes first, modify, then remake in laminated walnut veneer I have in stock.

[Scottish Guy]

1 hour ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

The Roar Ege will be built first to gain experience with this type of ship, and I plan anyway to test-fit the stakes first, modify, then remake in laminated walnut veneer I have in stock.

 

Sounds like a plan Johnny, unfortunately I don´t have any walnut veneer in stock, just walnut boards (12 mm) and sheets (3 mm) as some cherrytree boards (12 mm / 18 mm) and sheets (3 mm / 6 mm). But yeah, I will try to remake the parts and try to fit them, when everything works out fine I might remake a second version of the cherry.

 

I´m even considering if I not try to rebuild a Skuldelev from scratch, more likely to the original ship since the Billing models are not 1:1 copies of the origin, more a bit modified so it`s "easier" and fits more the budget... unfortunately I can´t find proper blueprints that give some specific measurements for the parts, I have a list of the materials used for the original ships / later rebuilds, was even considering to use the original woods for the parts (like oak for the keel and frame etc.) and pine for the mast.

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Two *

 

The New Beginning

 

A wee update, the 6 mm plywood sheet just arrived and the MDF board for the plan to pin down is ready to go. So I will start today with building the frame (pictures will follow) but also remake the keel from the new 2x1 ft plywood sheet. Will show the progress here as well, maybe even start a wee YouTube Channel to show the progress there as video as well.

 

 

If someone knows a source where to get accurate blueprints for the Skuldelev 3 / viking knarr ships I would really appreciate that hint. The Roar Ege plans are not that accurate and correct like the origin would have been built. I did read alot about the Skuldelev ships, also how they were built but not really accurate plans which I could use as a pattern to cut all my parts from scratch.

 

Have to keep an eye on the garden as well since we get a wee stormy night here...

 

Micha

Edited April 12 by Scottish Guy

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Two *

 

The building a supporting Frame

 

Just a wee update for you guys. I´m building a supporting frame for the keel, so it will be easier to put the ribs in place. Since all keel parts are glued already I can´t build the ship no longer as suggested in the instructions (two halves) but in one piece. Therefore I build that slip / support frame to put the keel into it. I marked all spots where the frames will be placed and I will build holders to keep the ribs in the marked placed and in a 90 degree angle to the ground.

Unfortunately I don´t have any pictures about that. I might put some in later on.

 

 

* Chapter Two *

 

A New Beginning - The Start

 

I used copies of the original plans to cut out the keel parts 1F and 2A from 6 mm cherry wood sheets. I glued the paper copies onto the wood sheets and used a flet saw to cut them out. Then I used paper copies for the ribs 10F to 5F and 10A to 5A to cut them out from 3 mm cherry wood sheets. The parts 9F / 9A, 6F / 6A and 4 are designed as bulkheads, the original Skuldelev 3 doesn´t have bulkheads, so I decided to use the other ribs as pattern to cut the bulkheads in the same shape of a rib but with the width the bulkheads had. I cut them out in the outer shape of the bulkheads and didn´t create the beams and knees since I can´t make out which size they should have (maybe I try this out with the knees I have for the other ribs - not sure yet).

 

 

I didn´t do many pictures of this work but will put in some pictures later (before assembling). When you follow this LOG you will have noticed that at the end of the LOG I will have two ships (the original Billings Boat and my own more realistic scratch build).

 

I have to cut out the planks as well, for the planks I´m not certain yet if I will use playwood or will use the cherry as well. Depending on the effort since the cherry seems a bit harder than the plywood.

 

Maybe you guys can give me advise here.

 

Micha

[TheDuckDetective]

In my experience, miss fortune can be a very potent stimulant for creativity. If one is open to it. It seems to me that you are handling your difficulties with grace!

 

If I had to choose I would go with cherry. Thats because the layers in the ply might be visible in the clinker strakes. Not that any viewer will see the underside of your model. But I would like to avoid it if possible. 😅

 

I'll be following along with your log!

 

Rutger

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Two *

 

The Jig for the BB Roar Ege (not the scratch build)

 

I’m not sure if this will be of a help but that’s the easiest way I could think of to support my full build instead of two halves (since the entire keel is glued already). We will see how much it might support me in this build but I’m convinced it is ok. Will keep you guys updated.

 

 

Have to glue the “bulkheads” first and will build some support frame to glue them on in a 90 degree angle, not sure yet how to do so but maybe by using 10x10 mm wooden sticks with a 3 mm sheet on top so I can lean it from behind against the bulkhead to glue it to the keel.

 

 

Here are the two 10x10 mm sticks, maybe just connect a 3 mm sheet plank on top so the "bulkhead" can lean against it so I get the 90 degree angle, at least that is what I hope to archive. Maybe I put some cuts into the ground board so the sticks get hold in place (but not sure how exact this will be.

 

Micha

Edited April 18 by Scottish Guy

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  The 70s 1:20 'Vikingskibbe' kit had a construction jig designed so that the hull was planked upside down on the jug.  Later, frame halves that had to be cut from plywood stock had to be fitted to the inside of the planked hull (once removed from the construction jig and held right side up).  With the irregularities inherent in planking, the odds of the jagged outside edges of the pre-printed on the stock of fitting nicely inboard were low.  Ergo, if one wanted a good fit, card stock would have to be trimmed and custom fit to make templates to cut out properly fitting frame halves (something like that was supposed to have been done on the original.

  I'll have to go back and review the logs on that kit that are in the MSW library.  As I recall, there were a couple outstanding builds.  One has the option of not attempting to model any rivets, while some have gone to great lengths to do so (many hundreds of them).  Any plank seams that will be concealed by decking (and the Oseberg gets entirely decked) do not require any inside rivet detailing - simply drilling for whatever mini-brads one has will be good enough, since the square 'washers' for the peened end are inboard.  

[Scottish Guy]

13 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

One has the option of not attempting to model any rivets, while some have gone to great lengths to do so (many hundreds of them). 

 

Hi Johnny an thank you. I was thinking of the rivets (iron nails and roves) for the planking, but I´m more thnking about it for the scratch build. But when I find a proper way I might do it with the BB kit as well.

 

Micha

[Scottish Guy]

* The New Beginning *

 

Chapter One - The Ribs?

 

In the original BB kit are some ribs made to "bulkheads" even if the original Skuldelev 3 doesn´t have any bulkheads but only ribs, beam stanchions, beams and knees (see picture below - from the replica build in Denmark).

 

 

The BB kit has the bulkheads, therefore I have to change the bulkheads somehow into the ribs that we can see in the original ship. Then I have to create the beam stanchions to support the beams and the knees on top of all this to connect the planking.

On the picture below you can see the half bulkheads from the BB kit attached to the half keel, the few ribs that came with the kit are not yet installed during this process.

 

My plan is now to use the original bulkheads from the kit as stencil (the paper cut outs) and try to figure out how the ribs for this places in the ship would look like. I will use the provided ribs of the kit as pattern since shape should be equal (except the size). I might need some runs to find the proper shape and size for the ribs.

 

The parts needed for the scratch build are described here as well, also the keel loocks different in shape than the provided keel from the BB kit.

It also looks like the keel is made of different parts, there is a bottom part shaped like a "T" and then the inner keel on top of it. Not sure if this in the original is one piece and carved or two pieces atatched to each other.

 

Micha

[Jaager]

My apologies if I am missing the questions  or covering something already addressed.

Naming these particular components "bulkheads" often leads to misunderstanding.  They are molds.  They stay in the model for most models of decked ships.  They are not seen, so it does not matter.   This model is a clinker built open boat.  The molds are temporary forms - or at least they should be.  I would build it the same way as I would any model of an open boat.

 

I did not see any plans' preview on the Billing site, so I have no knowledge of what is with this one.

A central spine - the top of which stops where the actual keel meets the garboard plank.  A series of molds to give support and temporary shape to the planking.  When it has done its job, it is discarded - I mean the spine and the attached molds.

 

The actual keel sits on the spine.  The P&S garboards bond to it.  The subsequent rows of planking added - row two P&S - row three P&S, etc.  Doing just one side to completion and then the other is very bad practice.  Continuously check for bilateral symmetry.  Adjust as necessary. 

I have seen Viking hulls with totally misunderstood planking runs.  One such was a cover story on the last series of Ships in Scale.  The problem was that the extreme upturn of the planking at the bow and stern are an illusion.  No real planks can turn up like that.  There was a gentile sheer.  The up turn was a carving.  It started at the rail and lower-  an elaborate stem - not  just a rabbet.

 

The spine and molds can be any material that will hold up.  They are disposable.  Actually for the scratch, they can be a carved sold Pine mold,  carved horizontal layers,  carved transverse layers - which ever fits your style.

 

The ribs for the model go in after the planked shell is completed.  Unlike carvel, they cannot be bent or heat bent*.  The "Z"  of the planking requires pattern work to get a fit. 

Anything ferrous on a model is a disaster.  It rusts , stains, and dissolves away.  On a static model, you will not live long enough to see it - unless someone invents a Niven Autodoc real soon.

Soft brass wire, or given its rapid rate of tarnish - soft copper wire - a possibly interesting color  better than bright brass on a Dark Ages beasty.  Having nothing instead of roves works too.

 

I would consider the tricky structures on the inside of the keel to be a keelson-  attached along the keel  - not of the keel.

 

*(Heat allows the lignin to be manipulated.  Water does not dissolve it.  If it did, trees would melt. Steam is just a messy way to apply heat at model scale. It swells the surface fibers.  For full size timbers - it is necessary.) 

 

Edited April 18 by Jaager

[Scottish Guy]

22 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Naming these particular components "bulkheads" often leads to misunderstanding.  They are molds.  They stay in the model for most models of decked ships.  They are not seen, so it does not matter.   This model is a clinker built open boat.  The molds are temporary forms - or at least they should be.  I would build it the same way as I would any model of an open boat.

 

Thank you Dean, I really appreciate your comments. I always learn something new from you. I realise that wooden ships are completely different to plastic models. But I accept this challenge for sure. I call them bulkheads because they remind me to the bulkheads in a sail yacht. I will change the term for them into molds, didn´t know that they are called molds. But still it looks completely different in the original ship as seen in the picture in my post. So for the BB kit it is ok but I would like to go more original with the cherry wood scratch build. I found a 1:20 Billing Boats "Skuldelev" kit, which seems more likely to the orignal ship to be build. Wondering if I get this one as example as well (is cheap, only GBP 59.00).

 

Micha

[Jaager]

Well, the original Italian kit mfg who developed the POB method - named them "bulkheads".  The very name of the method uses it  POB  Plank on bulkhead.

Bulkhead is a complete part of how it is described.   But it is not an actual bulkhead   Steel ships have bulkheads.  Wooden Chinese seagoing junks had bulkheads.  If Titanic had been built with actual bullheads - instead of the transverse barriers stopping short of being chambers that could be sealed, it may have floated long enough and level enough for a more organized abandonment or even help from something large.   As for yachts, is it that they are molded more than a frame?  Thinner than a frame?  Are there yachts built like a submarine with dogged hatches in a barrier across the hull that allows it to be a series of isolated cells?

 

An actual bulkhead is an integral part of the internal structure of a vessel.  In POB,  it is just the shape inside the hull at the station where it is - thus a mold (mould).  The midline support is not a keel.  It is a central spine.  These pretentious names "bulkhead" and "keel"  help with advertising  and salesman hooks.  They are too inculcated to be changed for most kit builders.  But, just like calling a yard - a "yardarm" - calling the part a bulkhead or keel  outside its kit realm is a reflection of depth of knowledge.

 

 

[Scottish Guy]

* Chapter Three *

 

The BB Roar Ege Build goes on - not by Plan

 

Since I glued the parts of the spine already together (parts 1F, 2A and 3 - each twice) I couldn’t follow the plan anymore since the plan goes by building two halves. Therefore I needed a jig somehow to keep the spine upright to attach the molds. The next step was now to glue the molds together, meaning left and right side (mirrored parts 4, 6A / 6F and 9A / 9F).

 

 

Then I sanded the spine in an oval shape around the middle part to fit snuggly in the parts 5A and 5F which both are ribs which will be placed on the spine between molds 4, 6A and 6F.

 

 

 

After sanding the spine they snuggly fit onto it

 

 

Now I had only to sand the center part of the spine (where all spine parts are glued between the two supporting parts 3 to fit on the center mold part 4. I also (not glued yet) added the ribs 5A / 5F, 7A / 7F and 8A / 8F as well as the molds 6A / 6F to see how the spine with the ribs and molds would look like. For the molds 9A and 9F I have to build a support to keep them in angle to glue them because the notch in the bottom is so thin and fragile that they won’t stay straight by themselves. When the support is ready I will put another post up.

 

 
 

That’s it for the moment, update will follow, preparing supper now. 
 

Micha 

Edited April 20 by Scottish Guy

[BrochBoating]

I'll confess I'm slightly lost (and spoilt by Vanguard plans  ). Is it the case this was meant to be built as two halves then joined?

 

[Scottish Guy]

1 minute ago, BrochBoating said:

Is it the case this was meant to be built as two halves then joined?

 

Hi Simon, when I read and follow the plan indeed. Unfortunately the plan makes step 2 before step 1, that´s why I mistaken glued the entire spine already together before I read that I have to cut out the two drawings (was wondering why there is a mirrored drawing of the assembly on two pages) and glue them onto a board to build each side... after glueing the spine together this plan wouldn´t work anymore lol   so I decided to go the way I do now. Also helps me to get the parts cut out of cherry wood sheets to create a more accurate (orignal build) version of the Skuldelev 3 from scratch. This will take longer but I will post both builds on here, I don´t create a second LOG for the scratch build since theis one is build out of the BB build somehow.

 

Micha