Flying Cloud 1851 by hof00 - Mamoli - 1/96 - American clipper

[hof00]

13 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

She's moving along nicely.  You've overcome some real issues with the alignment of the bulkheads....you've done well.

 

Faring out the bulkheads will be fun and the blocking too.

 

Following with interest.

 

Rob

Thanks for that Rob.

The hull "Skeleton" is not too bad.

 

Yup, fairing the Bulkheads will be interesting, I believe slow.... 🙂

Had a play with the Decking material today and have decided on a four Butt Shift. I intend to start this tomorrow with the Main Deck but I will only be planking about 1/3 of the Deck from the center out each side. This will leave enough room for me to pin around the perimeter before fairing the Bulkheads/Planking the Hull and trimming off the Bulkhead extensions once the Hull is Planked.

 

That's the plan anyway....

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[BobG]

12 hours ago, hof00 said:

before fairing the Bulkheads

I'm still not sure how to properly fair the bulkheads. I take my time and keep checking with a batten but I always end up with some problems once I start planking especially on the bulkheads near the bow. Good luck, Harry!

[hof00]

11 hours ago, BobG said:

I'm still not sure how to properly fair the bulkheads. I take my time and keep checking with a batten but I always end up with some problems once I start planking especially on the bulkheads near the bow. Good luck, Harry!

Hi Chap,

Yup, Fairing the Bulkheads something I am not an "Expert" at either.

I will make myself a nice sanding block and affix sandpaper to it, I might try Aluminum Oxide this time around as it does not clog.

I'll be sure to really take my time, the good thing about Clippers, Midships don't need too much fairing, more Bow/Stern.

 

I'll get some more Deck Planking down tomorrow before I think about attaching the False Decks prior to Fairing.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[BobG]

11 hours ago, hof00 said:

 

I'll get some more Deck Planking down tomorrow before I think about attaching the False Decks prior to Fairing.

What did you decide on the butt shift pattern for the deck planking?

[hof00]

18 hours ago, BobG said:

What did you decide on the butt shift pattern for the deck planking?

Hi Chap,

I have used a Four Butt Shift. (This is probably a "Continental" pattern that I used on the Cutty Sark, as described by Mr. Longridge.)

The Shift is as follows:

 

5 - 2 - 4 -1 - 3

Working outwards, each side from the King Plank 

The longest Plank, "5" is 60.0mm (Each # is a 12.0mm increment.)

 

I don't know if this "Shift" was ever used on American Clippers, but I find the pattern "Interesting" to say the least.... 🙂

(It is also quite time consuming.)

 

I have had a good couple of days now working on the Main Deck which I hope to complete tomorrow, (As far as I want to go, that is, being mindful that I have to "Pin" the False Deck to Bulwarks and Bulwark extensions have to be trimmed off "Post" Planking the Hull. At this stage Deck Planking is looking to be about 2/3 the width of the Hull.)

 

I'll hopefully get some photos tomorrow.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Edited May 13 by hof00

[hof00]

Hi All,

Small update:

 

Deck Planking has reached a point that I can no longer continue this task until the Hull is planked. (Otherwise, I'll be "Painting myself into a corner." 🙂)

Kit supplied Tanganika, not all that good, some material is very "Rough" and I do not think that there is enough material to Plank all three Decks.

I found some Billings Tanganika, (BL 1024), in my stock so have employed this as well. (You can see the random color variations; I think it looks not too bad.)

Caulking is by way of a 6B pencil, and all attached with dilute PVA.

I'm not too keen on sanding the Tanganika but I just think that I may have to, once the Decks are complete of course.

I will tidy up around the hole where the Main House will sit.

 

I guess that it will very soon be time to affix the Decks and start Fairing the Bulkheads.... I will have a think on the best approach to this.

 

Cheers.... HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

[rwiederrich]

Decking is coming along nicely.

 

Rob

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Great planking, and you're thinking ahead.  Then there's another thing to think about, and that is the thickness of the bulwarks (extensions of the bulkheads) that stick above the deck.  Many have planked around these, only to realize later that they are 'too fat' below the gunwale and don't appear correct.  Thinning them then leaves a rectangular anomaly at the base, flush with good decking (which may also get marred when flush cutting).  Some will taper the projections from top to bottom to leave decking intact - but that is a compromise.

 

  The desired thickness can be determined at this stage and trimmed.  Of course, they will be more delicate when applying planking above deck level - so care then is needed.

[hof00]

16 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Decking is coming along nicely.

 

Rob

 

14 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Great planking, and you're thinking ahead.  Then there's another thing to think about, and that is the thickness of the bulwarks (extensions of the bulkheads) that stick above the deck.  Many have planked around these, only to realize later that they are 'too fat' below the gunwale and don't appear correct.  Thinning them then leaves a rectangular anomaly at the base, flush with good decking (which may also get marred when flush cutting).  Some will taper the projections from top to bottom to leave decking intact - but that is a compromise.

 

  The desired thickness can be determined at this stage and trimmed.  Of course, they will be more delicate when applying planking above deck level - so care then is needed.

Thanks Rob and Johnny,

The more I look, the more things I see that need attention, today's efforts included lining the edges of the Poop Deck and discovering that another Bulkhead lacked symmetry, I fixed these, but I have found yet another Bulkhead that need some attention...🙂

I am also considering edge treatment on the Focsal Deck as well. 

I am now reasonably happy with the Main and Poop Decks.

 

Johnny, I hear you regarding the Bulwark thickness, the Bulwarks are 2.5mm thick O/A, outside Planking: 1.5 + 0.5mm, inside Planking:0.5mm. The Bulwark Main Rail is 4.0m wide. I have left the Deck Planking where it is to facilitate "Flush" trimming of the extensions post 1st cover Hull Planking.

The advice is appreciated regardless thank you.

 

Thats' me for the day.... 🙂

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Edited May 15 by hof00

[rwiederrich]

Indeed...if you want to be accurate, you will need to reduce the framing of the bulwarks considerably.   I typically assume...builders of model kits are going to adhere to the kit limitations on design and accuracy.

 

At that scale the deck planking also appears too large.  The strakes appear too wide...over a foot at scale.  However, this is not any kind of a deal breaker(sorry to be a nit-picker).

Thus far you have Abely corrected internal kit errors, and I suspect you will be called upon to do so in the future.   I'm not unfamiliar with having to *Rip-out* entire construction elements...because of a scale or completely inaccurate construction mistake.

Please do not let my overly critical critique hinder your wonderful progress.  I have been building clipper ships for over 52 years and any experience I may have picked up...can tend to be misinterpreted as me being a *Know-it-all*.   My honest desire is to help you (If I can) , build the most accurate model your skills permit.  You're doing wonderful.

 

Rob

[hof00]

11 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Indeed...if you want to be accurate, you will need to reduce the framing of the bulwarks considerably.   I typically assume...builders of model kits are going to adhere to the kit limitations on design and accuracy.

 

At that scale the deck planking also appears too large.  The strakes appear too wide...over a foot at scale.  However, this is not any kind of a deal breaker(sorry to be a nit-picker).

Thus far you have Abely corrected internal kit errors, and I suspect you will be called upon to do so in the future.   I'm not unfamiliar with having to *Rip-out* entire construction elements...because of a scale or completely inaccurate construction mistake.

Please do not let my overly critical critique hinder your wonderful progress.  I have been building clipper ships for over 52 years and any experience I may have picked up...can tend to be misinterpreted as me being a *Know-it-all*.   My honest desire is to help you (If I can) , build the most accurate model your skills permit.  You're doing wonderful.

 

Rob

Hi Rob,

Many thanks for your input and ongoing interest in my efforts thus far.

Yup, I agree wholeheartedly with your comments and realize that things might be well overscale.

I do think that there will be many more "Issues" that I will discover further down the line.🙂

I have had a quick look at some of your models and I am in awe.

I completed my 1st Clipper, Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark, (On this site), in 2013 after 6 1/2 years of weekend work. It came out o.k. I think, but the thought was that I can perhaps do better. (Now that I am pretty much retired, I can devote much more time to modelling.)

 

So, in conclusion, I do not feel that you are "Nit Picking," far from it, I value the input and aways prefer that people give me constructive criticism, maybe a paradigm shift? Always a good thing. 

I also value your knowledge and experience that you bring to the table.

Please continue to "Critique" my efforts, this is very welcome.

 

I do have a question for you, its' a little way off, keeping an eye to the future, do you think Serving Shrouds, Etc. is appropriate at this scale?

If so, what thickness of material would be appropriate for Serving? 

My thought is that normal sewing thread would be too "Heavy.'

 

Thoughts?

 

Kind Regards,

 

Harry.

 

[rwiederrich]

12 hours ago, hof00 said:

I do have a question for you, its' a little way off, keeping an eye to the future, do you think Serving Shrouds, Etc. is appropriate at this scale?

If so, what thickness of material would be appropriate for Serving? 

My thought is that normal sewing thread would be too "Heavy.'

I'm glad I'm not become a pest.   At this scale serving will not serve you well. HeeHee.  You will be attempting to cram as much detail into this model...do not try to be the purist....A little can go a long way...and more can actually destroy...because at this scale it all tends to be waaay out of scale.  And if you managed to keep it in scale the detail is too small to be really appreciated.

 

Rob

[Rick310]

Good advice Rob!

Flying Cloud is coming along well!

Rick

[hof00]

11 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

I'm glad I'm not become a pest.   At this scale serving will not serve you well. HeeHee.  You will be attempting to cram as much detail into this model...do not try to be the purist....A little can go a long way...and more can actually destroy...because at this scale it all tends to be waaay out of scale.  And if you managed to keep it in scale the detail is too small to be really appreciated.

 

Rob

 

11 hours ago, Rick310 said:

Good advice Rob!

Flying Cloud is coming along well!

Rick

Thanks, Rob/Rick,

It will be good not to worry about Serving.

 

Having a break from the Hull/Deck today, I decided to make myself a Jig for replacement Cabin Doors Frames. I don't like the plastic offerings.

I guess we'll see how that goes....  🙂

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[hof00]

Hi All,

Small update:

 

While I await the arrival of my new Nail Inserting device, (Lost somewhere within the NZ Postal system), I decided to have a go at making my own Deck House Doors.

 

I first tried with 1.0 X 1.0mm Strip assembled around a "Plug." This proved very frustrating and a very poor result.

I thought about the "Plug" a little more and decided to assemble a "Billet?" around a wooden Plug. This worked a lot better and once assembled the Doors could be individually sawn off the Billet.

One problem with my first "Billet" was that the Grain was running lengthwise resulting in very, very delicate Door Frames.

 

I assembled a new "Billet" this time with all "Billet" components, Grain running Widthwise.

 

The initial couple of Door Frames that I cut off the "Billet" were much improved and easily handled, (And filed), without the Frames crumbling... 🙂

1.0mm Mahogany Sheet was utilized rather than Walnut as the Grain is a little more porous for Glue penetration reasons.

I can now also choose some nicely contrasting wood for the bottom panel of the Door.

(The Frames are supposed to be painted white, I really did not want to mask these up and the less plastic the better!! 🙂)

 

I took some photos of the Door Frames next to the Kit offerings.

O/A dimensions of the Door Frames, 7.0 X 17.5mm

 

I'm sure that this method is not a new idea, but I thought to share regardless.

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

[Wawona59]

I applaud your decision not to use the plastic windows.  Wood always seems to look better, IMHO, even if it may look a bit over scale.  Interesting approach to making windows so they are all the same.  I've never used this method but it looks like you got some decent results.  Next time you might want to consider making the window mullions a bit thinner.  Carry on and keep moving forward.  Modeling sometimes is just a series of issues that must be resolved.  In the end, you'll end up with a model that you can be proud of; which will lead to the next model, and the next, etc. etc.  Carry on and keep up the good work.

[hof00]

52 minutes ago, Wawona59 said:

I applaud your decision not to use the plastic windows.  Wood always seems to look better, IMHO, even if it may look a bit over scale.  Interesting approach to making windows so they are all the same.  I've never used this method but it looks like you got some decent results.  Next time you might want to consider making the window mullions a bit thinner.  Carry on and keep moving forward.  Modeling sometimes is just a series of issues that must be resolved.  In the end, you'll end up with a model that you can be proud of; which will lead to the next model, and the next, etc. etc.  Carry on and keep up the good work.

Thanks John!!

The Door Frames, Rail/Stiles are 1.0mm thick as measured off the plastic kit-supplied Doors. (You can imagine my disappointment to discover these Doors, (Porta), were plastic not Metal as described in the parts listing.... ☹️)

 

The Mullions are pretty much the same, I do get what you are saying maybe 0.3mm different in section? I'll probably end up filing a slight Bevel on these. (I only need eight Doors that need to be 1.0mm thick so I should have a few "Spares" at my disposal. 🙂

 

Kit supplied Windows are 24 X Metal castings? The Frames/Mullions are 1.0mm in section all round. (I am thinking if I should make replacements for these as well, maybe....)

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

Edited May 21 by hof00

[Rick310]

On my Flying Fish build, I’m trying to make as many of the parts as possible, vs using the parts supplied with the kit.  I think anything you can make will be much better and you will be much happier with the results.

Rick

[hof00]

5 hours ago, Rick310 said:

On my Flying Fish build, I’m trying to make as many of the parts as possible, vs using the parts supplied with the kit.  I think anything you can make will be much better and you will be much happier with the results.

Rick

Thanks Rick,

I agree 100% with that!! 🙂

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

[Wawona59]

She's coming along nicely.  The color variation in the deck ads interest.  I agree with Rob and Snug Harbor Johnny that the bulwarks bulkhead extensions need to pared thinner in both thickness and depth.  I would probably consider using a sharp chisel and pare small shavings until the desired size is achieved.  As Snug Harbor Johnny says, care must be taken here as the pared down bulkhead extensions would be fragile.  Adding some exterior planking at the bulwarks before paring the extensions will give some needed support.  Following your build with interest.  Carry on!   

[hof00]

14 hours ago, Wawona59 said:

She's coming along nicely.  The color variation in the deck ads interest.  I agree with Rob and Snug Harbor Johnny that the bulwarks bulkhead extensions need to pared thinner in both thickness and depth.  I would probably consider using a sharp chisel and pare small shavings until the desired size is achieved.  As Snug Harbor Johnny says, care must be taken here as the pared down bulkhead extensions would be fragile.  Adding some exterior planking at the bulwarks before paring the extensions will give some needed support.  Following your build with interest.  Carry on!   

Thanks John.

Yup, I like the Color variation of the Deck, I think this will disappear after a light sand..... (I made a test piece, gave it a light sand and gave it a dose of Matt Vallejo Varnish, if you look hard, there is some very slight color variation

NZ Post have lost my new Planking Nail Driver, so, in the interim, I'm working on the Doors/Skylights/Etc.

Once I receive a "Nail Driver I can resume Bulkhead Fairing, Etc.

 

Regarding Bulkhead thickness, they appear to be 2.5mm O/A with a 4.0mm wide Rail. Bulkhead Extensions removed "Post" external 1.5mm Planking complete. (Much like my Cutty Sark.)

Anyway, I don't know everything at this stage.... 🙂

 

Advice and comments very much appreciated.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

 

[hof00]

Hi All,

Small update for some small pieces.... 🙂

I have been busy although I have not posted for a while. 

Since my Pin Push tool did not arrive, I decided, (A few weeks ago now), to try and manufacture some of the kit components that I was not happy with, namely, Doors, Windows and Skylights.

I have pretty much finished these, (Perhaps a wee "Mullion Tickle" here and there with a Needle File and, not to forget Glazing)

 

I'm much happier with the wood frames as they are rather than painting them White as shown on the box top. The research information that I have is that the frames were Oak, I think that the Cherry Frames are a reasonable analogue....

 

There are eight Doors required and twenty-four Windows required, I Will shortly have made twelve Doors and around thirty Windows, I can choose the best ones.... 🙂

 

I glazed three of the Skylights for a test, (Not glued as yet), 0.2mm Acetate, Back side painted with Tamiya Clear Blue.

 

I also purchased an Artesania Latina 17.0mm X 5.0mm Plates Marker, a bit fiddly to put together but seems to work o.k. 

A bit more practice with this tool and it should be o.k.

(I tried to make a Guide-Rail Jig for this tool but the best results at the mo. are "Freehand.")  Anyway, like the Windows, Doors, Etc. That's further down the track but needs to be done regardless. 🙂

 

In the next couple of days, the intention is to fix the Decks in place so that I can start to "Fair" the Bulkheads, I'm also looking forward to re-ordering a Pin Push tool. I am hopeful that this will arrive in time for Hull Planking.

 

Cheers.... HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

 

 

Edited June 7 by hof00

[rwiederrich]

That plates marker is cool.  you use it well.

 

Rob

[hof00]

15 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

That plates marker is cool.  you use it well.

 

Rob

Hi Rob,

Thanks for that.

 

Yup, the Plates marker is a good innovation, the only thing that I don't like about it is keeping it centered on the Copper Tape.

 At present I'm in the process of developing a Jig for just this purpose. withought altering/modifying the Marker in any way. 🙂

It's taken a bit of time to think about and assemble. I am hopeful that I'll be able to test my device tomorrow.

 

I have a plan "B" and "C" if the Copper Tape is a "Fail."

 

The Tape is 0.1mm thick and I think that double this will be much better in terms of Plate "Stiffness." (I'll make a Jig for this as well.... 🙂)

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

 

 

Once this is complete, I'll be fixing the Decks in place and fairing the Bulkheads.

[rwiederrich]

I could see how the wheel would wander...making useless your plates.   One good reason I invented a means to emboss my copper tape...when I built my Great Republic and Glory of the Seas.

I look forward to seeing your innovative guide gig....and the final product on the hull.  Good job for sure.

 

Rob

[hof00]

On 6/12/2024 at 12:14 AM, rwiederrich said:

I could see how the wheel would wander...making useless your plates.   One good reason I invented a means to emboss my copper tape...when I built my Great Republic and Glory of the Seas.

I look forward to seeing your innovative guide gig....and the final product on the hull.  Good job for sure.

 

Rob

Hi Rob,

A couple of photos of the Jig thingy....

It seems to work o.k. by dragging the Copper through the PE Wheels.

Needs a couple of "Tweaks before I'm happy with it which I'll get to in the near future.

The important thing for me was not to modify the A/L tool in any way. (I can remove the original tool with a gentle pull.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

 

Edited June 22 by hof00

[hof00]

Hi All,

Small update.

 

Although I haven't posted for a while, I have been reasonably busy on the Flying Cloud.

I have put my Plate marker to one side for the mo. to concentrate on getting some work done on the Ship.

 

• Attached all Decks
• Faired Bulkheads
• First four rows of 1.5mm Lime Planking attached

So, another "Gripe" with the kit supplied material, the Lime is extremely brittle, it does not want o bend easily and is very prone to fracturing, great care must be taken when handling the Hull.

I am hopeful that once the Bulwarks and Hull have thier extra layers of Planking attached things will be a little more "Robust." 🙂

 

Anyway, I have chosen to use this material and it was a good "Win" to get some real progress done

With regards to the remainder of the first cover, I think that all Planks will need to be tapered.

(I think that will be starting tomorrow.)

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ClipperFan]

@hof00 the McKay Extreme Clipper Flying Cloud you're carefully building is one of my favorites. This may come as a surprise but based on reading the precise description of her by publicist Duncan McLean of the Boston Daily Atlas, April 20th, 1851 not one of the beautiful Flying Cloud models is factually accurate to her true appearance, even the spectacular one at Addison's Gallery, Phillip's Academy, MA. That's because unique McKay bow nautical structural features have never been incorporated in any reproduction ever produced. That includes a 3/4th reproduction Flying Cloud vessel built in Lunenberg, Nova Scotia by the same craftsmen who built the HMS Bounty film replica. I saw this lovely Clipper ship when she was docked in Boston in the 1970s.

Donald McKay jealously guarded his nautical design secrets. I believe he was so successful that one of his key components have been lost to Modeler's for centuries. Until now. Thanks to Michael Mjelde's generosity in sharing ultra rare Glory of the Seas photos, we now have incontrovertible proof of these rare structures. But you don't have to take my word for it. Here are excerpts from The Boston Daily Atlas write-up: "She has neither head nor trailboards, but forming the extreme, where the line of the planksheer and the carved work on the naval hoods terminate, she has the full figure of an angel on the wing, with a trumpet raised to her mouth "... Later in his description of this largest merchant ship in the world, McLean observes the ruggedness of this unique bow structure: "Her hood ends are bolted alternately from either side, through each other and the stem so that the loss of her cutwater would not affect her safety or cause a leak." (italics added by me to emphasize specific components) Here's a link to the entire article:

http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/News/BDA/BDA(1851-04-25).html

 

I've attached a few images to illustrate the points I'm making.

 

(1) large Flying Cloud Boucher model in Addison's Gallery, Phillip's Academy, Andover, MA (Boston Globe). Spectacular but sadly, inaccurate.

(2) an authentic 1871 oil by John Scott "Flying Cloud off Whitby in North Yorkshire, England. Notice gold embellished naval hoods above the carved cutwater supporting a white winged trumpet bearing angel. Her large single topsails have been divided and her mast heights reduced but that's typical for 20 year old ships.

(3) an authentic 1913 Muir photo starboard bow close up of McKay's final Medium clipper Glory of the Seas. Clearly visible are her carved naval hood, just above her Grecian goddess Athene figurehead which rests on her carved Cutwater which overlays her hidden stem. Just like McLean described, her bow survived an impact with a Steamer. Damage is limited to her upper splash rail which is cracked. Photo courtesy of author Michael Mjelde.

(4) reverse of Henry Hall's Flying Cloud profile, which I traced to recreate her actual historically accurate appearance, finally restoring her critical nautical devices: naval hoods and cutwaters, overlaying her stem.

(5) my reconstructed Flying Cloud bow, all components illustrated to 1:96 scale.

 

Utilizing the Flying Cloud profile from Henry Hall's "Notebooks for shipbuilding in the United States, 1881-1883." similar to the technique used by Björn Landström, I've reconstructed the true appearance of McKay's famous Flying Cloud, incorporating all missing components as originally designed. It's my hope that finally, the true appearance of his vessel will finally be realized 

Edited June 29 by ClipperFan

[rwiederrich]

It would sure be refreshing to see a builder actually follow through and add the Naval Hoods to bolster the cutwater and make the stem factual.

 

You've done an exhaustive study, coupled with much research...to verify the validity of these McKay structural marvels.  They truly separate his ships from all the rest.   He made sure of it.  Duncan Mclean recorded it.

 

Rob

[hof00]

On 6/30/2024 at 5:17 AM, ClipperFan said:

@hof00 the McKay Extreme Clipper Flying Cloud you're carefully building is one of my favorites. This may come as a surprise but based on reading the precise description of her by publicist Duncan McLean of the Boston Daily Atlas, April 20th, 1851 not one of the beautiful Flying Cloud models is factually accurate to her true appearance, even the spectacular one at Addison's Gallery, Phillip's Academy, MA. That's because unique McKay bow nautical structural features have never been incorporated in any reproduction ever produced. That includes a 3/4th reproduction Flying Cloud vessel built in Lunenberg, Nova Scotia by the same craftsmen who built the HMS Bounty film replica. I saw this lovely Clipper ship when she was docked in Boston in the 1970s.

Donald McKay jealously guarded his nautical design secrets. I believe he was so successful that one of his key components have been lost to Modeler's for centuries. Until now. Thanks to Michael Mjelde's generosity in sharing ultra rare Glory of the Seas photos, we now have incontrovertible proof of these rare structures. But you don't have to take my word for it. Here are excerpts from The Boston Daily Atlas write-up: "She has neither head nor trailboards, but forming the extreme, where the line of the planksheer and the carved work on the naval hoods terminate, she has the full figure of an angel on the wing, with a trumpet raised to her mouth "... Later in his description of this largest merchant ship in the world, McLean observes the ruggedness of this unique bow structure: "Her hood ends are bolted alternately from either side, through each other and the stem so that the loss of her cutwater would not affect her safety or cause a leak." (italics added by me to emphasize specific components) Here's a link to the entire article:

http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/News/BDA/BDA(1851-04-25).html

 

I've attached a few images to illustrate the points I'm making.

 

(1) large Flying Cloud Boucher model in Addison's Gallery, Phillip's Academy, Andover, MA (Boston Globe). Spectacular but sadly, inaccurate.

(2) an authentic 1871 oil by John Scott "Flying Cloud off Whitby in North Yorkshire, England. Notice gold embellished naval hoods above the carved cutwater supporting a white winged trumpet bearing angel. Her large single topsails have been divided and her mast heights reduced but that's typical for 20 year old ships.

(3) an authentic 1913 Muir photo starboard bow close up of McKay's final Medium clipper Glory of the Seas. Clearly visible are her carved naval hood, just above her Grecian goddess Athene figurehead which rests on her carved Cutwater which overlays her hidden stem. Just like McLean described, her bow survived an impact with a Steamer. Damage is limited to her upper splash rail which is cracked. Photo courtesy of author Michael Mjelde.

(4) reverse of Henry Hall's Flying Cloud profile, which I traced to recreate her actual historically accurate appearance, finally restoring her critical nautical devices: naval hoods and cutwaters, overlaying her stem.

(5) my reconstructed Flying Cloud bow, all components illustrated to 1:96 scale.

 

Utilizing the Flying Cloud profile from Henry Hall's "Notebooks for shipbuilding in the United States, 1881-1883." similar to the technique used by Björn Landström, I've reconstructed the true appearance of McKay's famous Flying Cloud, incorporating all missing components as originally designed. It's my hope that finally, the true appearance of his vessel will finally be realized 

Thank you, kindly Sir, for your extensive dissertation and images!!

I will get to your attached article in a day or two.

 

I have been away from the PC for a few days now, concentrating on the Flying Cloud 1st Planking. (The lines are really starting to show themselves.

 

I should have a reasonable update in the next few days.

 

Thank you once again for your information, much appreciated.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.