America 1851 by Caferacer - Mamoli - Scale 1:66

[Caferacer]

A really cheap eBay solid hull kit was my first model, since then I have looked for a nicely scaled model.  Lo and behold just as I was a couple moths out from finishing the Benjamin Latham, Model Expo has a great sale and after a little research I went for the 1:66 Mamoli kit.

Good news bad news, good news?  Good news, the documentation is nice, details are good and the sheets are decently sized.  As @frenchguy points out the text is... challenging? Bad news, the laser cut parts are in plywood, not solid wood, this made separating them a pain, I had to break out the jeweler's saw.  Not the end of the world, but I suspect shaping the frames for the planking will be interesting.  The frame sections are also a little on the thin side.  Good news, some exotic wood supplied that's nice, and the cord supplied for rigging isn't on tight spools.  Whenever using those small flat "bobbins" of cord, I have to soak it in hot water to get the kinks out.  Anyway, here we go!

[Gregory]

You may have already realized this, but the only points you have to cut are the 'tabs'.  These keep the laser cut parts from falling out of the sheet during cutting.  It's standard practice for laser cut parts.

I've found they can usually be cut with a hobby knife, but  going from both sides makes it easier.

[Caferacer]

On 8/31/2024 at 11:40 AM, Gregory said:

You may have already realized this, but the only points you have to cut are the 'tabs'.  These keep the laser cut parts from falling out of the sheet during cutting.  It's standard practice for laser cut parts.

I've found they can usually be cut with a hobby knife, but  going from both sides makes it easier.

Normally you're right, but the plywood was too tough for a hobby knife to easily go through, and the gap cut by the laser was thinner than an 11 blade.

[Caferacer]

Well despite the difficulty removing these laser cut parts; they fit really well.  I have only had to verify they are square, I have not had to clamp a square to the part while gluing them up.  I did goof one piece (#13), not sure how but I was able to remove it and set it correctly.

[Caferacer]

Even though the kit comes with what looks like a "subfloor" for the deck, I'm still filling the gaps.  I like how the transom is built up, it will take a lot of shaping, but there will be a lot of structure to it.

[Caferacer]

Mast supports built up. This kit though Italian (??) made in the Czech Republic, is in fractions, which is actually helpful because all the wood matches up, the 1/4 inch masts fit well once I added fractional stock.  I guess what I';m saying is I'm not fighting between metric dimensions and fractional wood stock.

[Caferacer]

Transom is built up and I added some additional material around the cockpit, so that when I add the planking around it, there is something to support it.

[Caferacer]

One advantage to such a famous boat, is there is a lot of contemporary or at least period documentation. I found a few scaled sheer and waterline drawings as well at rigging drawings.  Of course there are a few oil paintings, but I doubt those are worth using for accuracy, however, they do all agree that the jolly boats are not on board.  I have also ordered "The Low Black Schooner" and "America's Victory" on eBay. A bargain at about $6 each.

 

[Caferacer]

Time to start shaping the frames, I'm following Steers' half hull model for the keel shape.

[Caferacer]

In addition to Steers' drawings, I'm also referencing Pehr Cedergren's detailed drawings of the transom found in the Low Black Schooner.

Some of the rabbit I added to the keel is getting eaten away, but this is fine as I can cut it off and replace it.  I'd prefer it happen to a replaceable part than the frame section.  The rear most frame section had to be cut down a lot, otherwise it would have forced the hull to "flatten" out as it approached the transom rather that that famous taper

[Gregory]

Shaping up Very Nicely.

 

Mamoli has that forward companionway that I haven't seen in any other drawings.  Does it show up in any of your other references?

Campbell doesn't show it in the MS plans.   A ladder down to the Crew's quarters doesn't seem out of place, IMO, as they wouldn't  be trapsing through the master cabin and the galley.

[Caferacer]

This is sort of the "question" of the America; which America are you building?  

The America that left the Yard with a grey hull, the America that left France for England with the black hull (and a lot of wine), or even the later one with the white hull?

The America that raced on Aug 22nd, with the second Jib boom?

What about the jolly boats, in fact the hangers don't seem to show up in the racing configuration.

Then the America was reconfigured many times after the race, later with a wheel not a tiller..

I think in 1851, while the yacht had decent accommodations, it crossed the Atlantic, with Steers and his son and brother (and a lot of rum), in '51 as a racing yacht, I can see a single companionway. This seems to be what shows up on the paintings, sure, the paintings may not be the best "documentation" but they reliably show the forward, rectangular skylight, no companionway.  Some older plans for modeling do show the forward companionway, but these are from the 20th century.  I'm attempting the 1851 racing version, in fact I'm tempted to be a rebel and build the one that left New York, with the gray hull. 

Ahh but there there's that pesky jolly boat question...

[Gregory]

This is when you build the model you want to build.  If some one question's you about the lack, or inclusion of a detail, you whip out a drawing or a painting that supports your vision and you ask " are you calling the artist of this drawing a liar? "  😁

[Caferacer]

23 hours ago, Gregory said:

This is when you build the model you want to build.  If some one question's you about the lack, or inclusion of a detail, you whip out a drawing or a painting that supports your vision and you ask " are you calling the artist of this drawing a liar? "  😁

 

lol   True..

I'm curious about your laser, the results you got on the Rattlesnake are amazing.  I think in retirement that would be my purchase, as I would like to get into larger scales, or at least play around with scales, as well work directly off plans.  Sure a scroll saw is cheaper, but going directly from the computer to the wood allows for more accuracy I think rather than trying to scale drawings. 

[Gregory]

There are some great laser options out there.  They will only get better as time goes on.

The accuracy still comes from your drawings.  The laser can only cut what you send it.

I am still trying to refine my 2D skills, which is all you really need for laser, but I would like to dig a little deeper into 3D so as to get a better fit before wasting wood.  
My Rattlesnake has stalled because I’m not that happy with the details, my excuse being it’s my first scratch attempt.

I hopefully will have some progress soon with some insight on how I got there.

 

I appreciate your interest, and welcome any further discussion. 

[Caferacer]

My wife bought me a 3D printer 2 Christmases ago, so I have "relearned" some CAD (last used 20+years ago) and Fusion 360 for 3D.  

I like Fusion, I think it has 2D output abilities, though I haven't tried.  YouTube as you can imagine has a wealth of tip and tutorials, I have imported a few things into Fusion and converted them to the 3D model.  Something I want to try next is 3D scanning.

[Gregory]

Your America trail boards and transom eagle might be a nice 3D printing project.

[Caferacer]

That's an idea.. I have a very low rent model, but it's paid for itself in useful prints.  For my Latham build I made a "helper" items; a frame for gluing up the gutting trays and a "buck" for the main cabin, the main cabin is a trapezoid that tapered in the z axis.   I don't think I would get the resolution for the eagle, I was going to attempt using Sculpy clay.  

[Caferacer]

The tale of the transom.  The shape and proportions of the kit are far away from the photos and period drawings, it's sharper and at more of an acute angle.  I have been building up and shaping for a couple of weekends now.  Pausing to create the cockpit grating, and to build up the transitions of the deck.  I know the companionway is going in here somewhere, so now is the time to be sure the frame isn't going to foul good placement of it.  In the back of my mind I'm also figuring out the plan for the bulkhead tabs. Obviously I won't cut them until the bulwarks are bent, but exactly how and when?  This material, unlike basswood, can't be easily chiseled away after installing the bulwarks and false heads.  I don't want to get painted into a corner.

[Gregory]

If it's any help, here is how Campbell drew the stern.   Campbell says his drawings are based on lines taken in 1856.

 

[Caferacer]

That's super helpful!  That is about the side profile I'm targeting, but that composite  view is excellent!  Thanks!

Apparently every time it stopped architects took measurements, I'm assuming they used transits? 

[Caferacer]

Nearly there.

[Caferacer]

Figured out what to do with the timbers.. duh..

Thinning them out on two sides, brings them close to the size, rather than cutting them off.  I'm not jazzed about pre-bending the bulwark then attaching them later, after all I want to plank the deck first, so the bent bulwark sits around for a few weeks?  So once the deck is done, I'll shape them to the final size contour, and I can bend the bulwark and attach it to the timbers, and then add false timbers.

 

[Caferacer]