HM Cutter Sherbourne by Stuka - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[Stuka]

Hello again 
I have now almost finished all the deck details, Just the ancors remain now pretty much and some additional black coatings., Fitting the swivel guns went very smooth and without trouble. However trouble began today when I was fixing the holes on the ancors.  Not only did my ancor break during the assembly so I had to reglue the resin parts together again which went fine. But now as I was fixing the holes for the ring on top of the ancor one of the top parts just broke apart and is impossible to reglue. feeling a bit demorilised I took one of the spare brass keyholes on and modified it and after glued it on. acting as a holder for the ring so fingers crossed I can save this. 

Another less fun thing to say.
Some mild frustrations are growing on my side with the instructions,  about the foregratings that are supposed to be glued on with a thread through it. I again followed the instructions and a couple of pages before It says that all deck fittings are now to be added and glued I presume. Unless I severly misunderstood the instructions though when I read it I thought all of the deck fitting where supposed to be glued on and added when it said I should add them. Cause the pictures even show several before photos with all the fittings attached including this part that I have troubles with now.  This is not the first time an annoying error happends even though I follow the instructions as told,  Before it was with the pump dowel material which in the instructions wrongly state that 25mm of dowel is to be used per pump but in reality its only 15mm.  Which means if you followed the instructions one mast is going to be 2cm short. 

I fully understand that these kits are developed by Chris alone I assume the instructions are written by Chris and somebody that helps him. But I would hope these instruction errors can be corrected for the future so rookies like me dont have to make these errors by just following the instructions cause it just feels very uneasy as if I cant trust the instructions unless I have looked through the future pages and all the plans to constantly double check whats written. 

I overrall love this kit and would still recommend it for a complete beginner like me but I hope the instructions can have a second look at them sometime and some errors corrected. And I mean nothing to try and put anybody or the model in a bad light im just trying to let some steam off with my frustrations as of now.  I will probably take  a break for today atleast on the build but I will finish it just need a little positive energy first 👍

[Stuka]

Hello again 

Have been abit busy with some trips, also had problems with my car and now its the holiday season and all so have not done to much,  I did also get a little discouraged because me gluing on the foregratings before the rope was attached and I was unsure of how to procede the best.  But the other day I tried to carefully get the gratings loose with a knife and it worked. So now Im back on track again 🙂

 

[Craigie65]

Good save!

[palmerit]

For the future, I think isopropyl alcohol will loosen up PVA glue (you might still need to apply a sharp scalpel, but it will be loosened a bit). (Nail polish remover will do something similar with CA glue - superglue).

[Stuka]

On 12/20/2024 at 6:22 PM, palmerit said:

For the future, I think isopropyl alcohol will loosen up PVA glue (you might still need to apply a sharp scalpel, but it will be loosened a bit). (Nail polish remover will do something similar with CA glue - superglue).

Agreed, I just have been to lazy to look into my local hardware stores to find it, But it is the bettter approach for the future.  This time I only used a sharp scalpel and worked my way around each corner carefully until eventually I could take it off by hand carefully.

[Stuka]

Anchors with the supplied paperstrip is done,  I just eyed the width and cut very thin strips with my scissor afterward I used CA gel on on the top side and just attached the strip.  I then let the glue dry for like 2 mins before I applied glue on all other 3 sides and then I just "dragged" the strip and attached it as I went around the Anchor while cutting off the excess on the end.  

Now for the hard part. Doing the masts and rigging is a big challange for me. I have very little experience tying good knots etc so this will be challenging to say the least.

[Stuka]

Hello 

Sorry for the delays,  Im trying to shape the masts and spars and that is going okay I guess.  The main mast I could put the dowel into a screwdriver and shape it with sandpaper. As for the spars I dont know if I can do the same without breaking one end considering that both ends are supposed to be small on each ends of the dowel i might not be able to risk it.  

I did have a mishap in the form of me slipping on ice and breaking some fingers a week ago and that makes my modeling harder now that im limited to one hand and a couple of fingers. However I did manage to paint the main mast head today so I hope I can get on track and finish this model 🙂 

[Craigie65]

Sorry to hear about your broken fingers, hope you are on the mend.

 

You are on the right track using an electric drill/screwdriver to help shape the yards.  Just take your time avoiding putting too much pressure on the yard arm nearest the screwdriver chuck. Once you get the taper close to where you want it, just proceed by hand using sandpaper.

[ccoyle]

22 hours ago, Stuka said:

I did have a mishap in the form of me slipping on ice and breaking some fingers a week ago

 

Ouch! Get well soon!

[Stuka]

On 1/20/2025 at 9:21 AM, Craigie65 said:

Just take your time avoiding putting too much pressure on the yard arm nearest the screwdriver chuck. Once you get the taper close to where you want it, just proceed by hand using sandpaper.

Thanks for the suggestion Craig. Il try something like that with the yard and broms to get them done.

[palmerit]

On 1/19/2025 at 10:39 AM, Stuka said:

The main mast I could put the dowel into a screwdriver and shape it with sandpaper. As for the spars I dont know if I can do the same without breaking one end considering that both ends are supposed to be small on each ends of the dowel i might not be able to risk it.  

I was able to do the mast and spars with the drill method. One thing I did was wrap the ends in a long loop of paper (about an inch wide) - to protect the end, especially after shaping one end and then working on the other end. I also went slow. if I had to remove a ton of wood (e.g., going from 4mm to 2mm) I'd start with a bit of 100 grit. But I quickly moved up to 160 grit and then finished with 320 grit or finer when it was close to being done. I checked it often with my calipers in several places.

 

I think drill method helps ensure that it's closer to round - it's also easier. With my Pram and Smack models, some of the yards are made with rectangular pieces of wood and because I had broken a yard for my Pram using the drill method (at the point where there were pre-drilled holes in the kit) I ended up doing it by hand. I left the yards a bit more oval because I didn't want to end up having the piece break again.