Grand Bank Dory by Jim M - Midwest Products/Model Shipways - 1:12

[Jim M]

Good evening, 

 

I picked up this kit when on sale from Model-Expo. I finished their first kit in the Shipwright Series, but I am not as ready as I wanted to move to next ship in the series. Instead I wanted to do another Dory, and this is challenging me and I am having some fun which is more important.

 

A little about me, this is my second ship model. The last time I worked on a model, it was almost forty years ago. I have picked up modeling this year, and I have been bitten by the wood model bug. On the side I am also doing some plastic models. 

 

I stated the kit on August 25, and started to look over the plans, and tonight, I was able to complete the knee, stem, transom, and the cleats. I tried something new today, I used magnets and a stainless steel board as a build board, and it seems to be functioning pretty well. However, I am still a little gun shy on using this method to make the frames, so I am waiting on a piece of cork to be delivered.

 

The documentation is well written, however there is a bias for using CA glue, which I am not a fan of. I rather use PVA, and that is what I am using primarily with this model. 

 

[JacquesCousteau]

Looks like you're off to a great start! I'm looking forward to following along, I haven't seen a log for this kit yet and was curious about how it compares with the Model Shipways version. These small fishing boats in a large scale leave a lot of room for creativity and personalization through kitbashing.

[Jim M]

Good morning, I noticed my transom had a small twist favoring the port side. So I removed the transom and knew  using isopropyl. I noticed the knee was not fully 90 degrees, so I reset the angles with some more sanding, then re-assembled.

 

You can see the twist on the image wit the red squares. The second photo shows the reset for the transom placement.

 

[Jim M]

Good evening, my build board arrived today so I was able to make some progress. Considering my cork board is 12x12 I had to cut out the frame plans from the full plan so I could arrange them on the board.

 

 

 

 

 After adding the images to the board, I covered it with plastic wrap, and then started to build the frames.

 

 

After the frames where dry I was able to mount them to the bottom plank.

 

Finally, I was glued up the mast step.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 4 by Jim M

[Jim M]

Good evening,

 

I made some more progress today with the Dory. First I trimmed and bevelled the mast step. I had to trim the short end of the mast step to be 1/16 from the center of hole. I trimmed it a little long, and used my sander to get a perfect 90 for all axises (x, y & z). 

 

 

Next I added the mast step next to frame #2. 

 

After gluing i moved to fairing my frames, transom and stem. In hindsight, I should have purchased a wood plane to make the bevelling easier on the stem but overall I am satisfied with the result using my sanding block.

 

 

One thing I learned from the Model Shipways Dory, is not to be as aggressive with the fairing. On that project I broke through one of the frames, and I had to fix it by adding some more wood to it. During this phase I did do a dry fit of the planks to make sure they where contacting nicely to the frames.

 

Finally tonight, I was able to get the strong board ready. The kit arrived with the right dimension for the wood but the lengths where off, so I had to cut the pieces correctly. Below is the dry fit and marking of the board.

 

 

Once was satisfied with the fit that includes everything is 90 degrees, I glued the pieces to the strong board. I tried using CA but, alast that product is my bane. I ended up using PVA so that the end of the night. 

Edited September 5 by Jim M

[MBerg]

Hoping aboard this one, looks like an interesting kit that's similar, but different enough from the Shipwright Series dory. Looking good so far, keep it up!

[Jim M]

Good evening, 

 

Tonight, I mounted the Dory to the strong board. 

 

 

Then I bevelled the edges of the garboards before fitting them.

 

I then added the garboards to the Dory.

 

 

 

If you notice on the starboard side at the bow, the plank broke as I was trimming it. I tried to fix with some ca glue but that was a disaster. I guess it will be some wood filler when I remove the Dory from the jig.

 

Have a good evening...

[Jim M]

You know its Friday and 3:00ish and you decide you don't want to work. So I stepped away from the computer and did a little dry fitting of the first middle plank. The boss called for a two hour pair programming session, so I did not get as much as I would l have liked done. 

 

The plans did call to mark 1/16 of an inch down from the top of the garboard, and to bevel opposite sides of the plank. Below you can see the initial dry fitting looks pretty good.

 

I did fill that one spot with some plastic wood filler, but it is goint to be a bear to clean up after I remove the Dory from the strong board.

 

 

 

[Jim M]

On 9/1/2024 at 9:20 PM, JacquesCousteau said:

Looks like you're off to a great start! I'm looking forward to following along, I haven't seen a log for this kit yet and was curious about how it compares with the Model Shipways version. These small fishing boats in a large scale leave a lot of room for creativity and personalization through kitbashing.

Jacques, I am finding this kit is a nice compliment to the Model Shipways Lowell Dory. In some sense it is easier because of the size. I am however learning some better techniques. For example one thing on this kit that is different is the planking we need to bevel the sides so we get a better connection between planks. The strong board approach is also interesting, and unique to this build.

[Jim M]

Good evening, 

 

Today I completed, the mid planks on the dory.

 

One lesson I learned on the Model Shipways Dory, it is ok to use more glue. This time arround I was more heavy handed with the glue, before clamping and fitting the planks.

 

 

Also if you look below I had to bevel opposite sides of the plan so that it meets up better. If you remember when I added the garboard, I had a bevel that was facing out, and on the plank I had the same bevel facing inside of the boat, along with a bevel that faces out on the top of the plank. Does this make sense?

 

Here is the first mid plank clamped up.

 

 

I did both sides before moving on to the second mid plank. Before doing the port side, I removed the excess from the planks after a good 30 minute soaking.

 

Here I am clamping the second mid plank on the starboard side, if you notice the arrows on the prepped plank and the plank that is clamped you those are bevels.

 

 

Finally the second mid plank is added to the port side.

 

 

Another view of the starboard side.

 

[Jim M]

Good evening, I mad a lot more progress on the dory. In fact I am about 1/2 done with the project, according to documents. Step 95/190.

 

Today I added the shear planks but before I noticed on the starboard side, that one of the planks on the top middle plank did not have enough glue so I added more and proceed with adding the shear plank to the port side after removing the braces on the stem with some isopropyl.

 

After the glue had a chance to dry, I also added the shear plan to the starboard side.

About an hour later, I removed the Dory from the strong board by removing the pins in the center, and the braces on the transom with some isopropyl.

I then plugged the two holes with toothpicks, and remove the excess plank material from the transom and bow.

 

 

I also leveled out the garboards to be even with the bottom using my micro plane and sanding stick.

 

I cleaned up the transom, and added some fairing on the planks.

 

I also did some putty work on the tramsome and planks to clean up any gouges from scraping the glue, or obvious glue. By the way does anyone have a good recommendation of a putty that is better than the dap putty I am using?

 

The plans call to add a false stem on the bow and you can see the curvature that is needed. The plans indicated to use ca and just bend it the plank.

 

I rather use pva, so I soaked the stem in some hot water and used a plank bender to clean up the curve.

 

 

I am really impressed with that tool. However the scorch marks  where horrendous. I spent better part of 40 minutes cleaning up the marks, and it still not perfect.

 

Next I applyied pva and glued the false stem to the bow after some sanding and planing to get a nice contact. I also added some fairing to the planks.

 

 

Finally, the plans called to fair the false stem to a point, and again I used my micro plane and sanding block. I think this turned out rather nice.

 

I highly recommend a micro plane it makes this work much easier and cleaner. Though my wife is tapping her foot as I need to vacuum the game room again.

 

[Dan Poirier]

I'm enjoying your build log. I did the Model Shipways dory as my first model. Seeing the one you're doing, I'm thinking the larger scale might have made it  easier for a beginner.

 

When you praise your micro plane, do you mean a very small wood plane, or a Microplane (tm) brand tool of some sort? 

[Jim M]

29 minutes ago, Dan Poirier said:

I'm enjoying your build log. I did the Model Shipways dory as my first model. Seeing the one you're doing, I'm thinking the larger scale might have made it  easier for a beginner.

 

When you praise your micro plane, do you mean a very small wood plane, or a Microplane (tm) brand tool of some sort? 

yeah i did the model shipways dory and this is a nice complement to the project and in general i would suggest this build first then move to shipwright series.  

[Jim M]

Good morning, 

 

A quick update from yesterday. I started work on the gunwales with adding the bands on the port and starboard sides.

First I dry fitted the external plank and marked the bow angle.

 

After trimming and sanding, I then glued to the side of the dory. The curve was not excessive so there was no need to use my plank bender.

 

I repeated the process for the other side, and let it sit over night. Here is the results after removing the clamps.

[Jim M]

Good evening. I made some more progress on the Dory tonight with getting the gunwales partially installed. 

 

First I added the first layer of the inner gunwale between the frame.

 

 

 

After the glue dried i then cut the frame flush with the gunwale. 

 

 

Next I added  notches in the frames for the next layer of the gunwale. 

 

 

I then fitted the final piece of the inner gunwale. 

 

 

Finally I did some sanding and added filler in preparing for paint. 

 

[Bryan Woods]

Looking good!

[Jim M]

Thank you @Bryan Woods

[Jim M]

F7DBABAA-6CEC-4C6D-A744-265ADE7B2525_1_201_a.heic9FF5BC1A-2FF8-44D7-836C-88535D621B4B_1_201_a.heic9FF5BC1A-2FF8-44D7-836C-88535D621B4B_1_201_a.heicGood afternoon, I made some more progress on my Dory. I wanted to get the gunwales finished up before I leave for an extended weekend for my 27th anniversary. 

 

First I cut the bow stem to be even with the gunwales.  I then planed and sanded to get everything even and smooth.

 

Next I then notched the transom and dry fitted the gunwale cap. 

 

 

I then glued the cap onto the gunwales, where I will let it setup over the weekend.

 

 

Cheers

 

Jim

[Bryan Woods]

Good stopping point. Congratulations on your anniversary. Have a wonderful trip!

[Jim M]

thanks @Bryan Woods

[Jim M]

Good evening. A minor update tonight. I did some minor sanding of the Dory and then I installed the breasthook. 

 

I then tapered the risers.  

 

Finally I then installed the risers. 

 

 

 

[Jim M]

Good evening a minor update tonight. 

 

Today I fitted the thwarts and it is now starting to look like a Dory. 

 

 

I am very pleased that the mast is straight. 

 

As I wait for some filler and stain the plan is to start on the oars and trawl bucket tomorrow. 

 

I do have some model expo oak stain that is paint :facepalm:  has anyone use this stain?  I did order some Littlefairs stain which arrived this weekend. I am wondering if anyone has use this stain?

 

 

[Jim M]

Good evening, I made some progress today,

 

First I added the becket holes after having a minor panic attack as I needed a 2, 2.5 and 3 mm drill bits. I found them at Harbor Freight, along with some smaller drill bits for the pin vise.

 

When drilling, I used the strong back as a backing so the holes do not explode. This was mostly successful, the starboard side at the bow was a little challenged. These holes are 3 mm.

 

 

Next I rounded and sanded the thwarts, and gunwales. Last thing is we do not want our sailors getting hurt on sharp edges

 

 

 

 

Next I marked off the thole posts. I did this about three times before I was satisfied that they where even.

 

Then I drilled the twelve holes with a 2 mm bit.

 

 

Then I started to make the thole pins. I used my cutter and cut them 1/2" long, Then used a compass to mark off 1/4" line. From there I was then started to round the pins. the hole size is 2mm.

 

 

I found holding the pin in my pliers I was able to use a sanding stick to thin the pin.

 

Here you can see that I was able to get pins to be even on both sides of the Dory with the dry fit.

 

 

Also you can see that the ports are even across the Dory.

 

 

All of the pins are pulled and on tape so I do not loose them. I will only seal them with shellac to keep the natural color.

 

 

Next I noticed that one the thwart rails was longer, so I trimmed it so it was even with the port side. This error was due to me not compinsating for the 3/16" difference in the rib due to the offset.

 

 

 

Next I drilled the hole for the trawl, it is 2.5mm. Initially I wanted it on the starboard side, but the bit split the rail, so I plugged it with a toothpick and moved the port side. Considering I am left handed, I thought a port trawl is reasonable. As you can see it fits nicely in the hole. When I glue it in, I will have it showing 1/8" under the rail. I am thinking a brass color for it. Any thoughts or ideas?

 

 

Finally I started to work on the trawl bucket. I had to cut 40 1 1/4" pieces, and I used my cutter for this. I lined them up against a ruler and square and then added tape to them. I will stain them either english oak or light oak. I am waiting on the stain for this. At the same time, I mounted the ends of the bucket to  its jig.

 

 

 

Have a good evening.

[Jim M]

Good evening. Today was a productive session. I am getting close to painting the Dory, but before getting there. I started with testing some English Oak Stain I purchased. It is water base, and I am not to sure I really like the color. I have a light oak color coming tomorrow, so it will be interesting to see how it performs. If it does not work well then I will maybe get some of that Vetero alcohol stain for staining my trawl bucket.

 

 

Next I started to shape the oars, after cutting the dowel to size. I then used a compass to transfer the transition to the dowel. 

 

I then shaped the handle by a combination of scoring the cheek cut, and carving out the handle. From there I used my drill as a makeshift lathe for sanding the handle.

 

 

I then proceed to cut the oar blades, and then shape them using my sander.

 

The angle I used was 10 degrees, though the plan was probably closer to 9 degrees.

 

Next I created a jig out of double sided tape, and some stock so I can add the blades to the oar and that it is mostly centered so that I can do the final shaping tomorrow.

 

 

This is the result after gluing.

 

 

Next I started work on the mast and the main stay. Using my compass i transferred the marks I needed to drill. 

 

 

After drilling, I then shaped the mast and main stay using my drill. The main stay had a nasty flat spot on the dowel, so I gave it a minor taper.

 

 

Hopefully tomorrow I can do the finish sanding, and then sealing of the Dory with shellac before I paint it this weekend. I am hoping to finish the sail this weekend and then seal the model with some matt varnish. The oars I am going to leave a natural color along with the mainstay and mast.