Bounty Boat by AlfredoCampos - Occre - 1/24

[AlfredoCampos]

The Bounty Boat is my first model. Its fascinating to learn the misteries of ship building and woodwork, yet as fascinating as sometimes hard.

 

After a series of problems with a bent keel and poorly placed (not squared) bulkheads, I wrote my first post here desperately looking for help. The wonderful people here promptly came to the rescue, suggesting many ideas on how to verify everything and fix the problems. 

 

After solving those issues and going forward with the build, I've studied a lot, both manuals and videos, yet the learning curve is steep. I thus decided to start this build log, both as a place to find help and suggestions, and a place for future beginners like me to find clues on essential skills and tasks.

 

I hope you like it! If you want or need a discussion on bent keels and unsquared bulkheads, try here: 

 

[AlfredoCampos]

After the problems mentioned in the intro, I checked every bulkhead and unglue those which weren't squared - most in fact. Also built a little jig to both hold the ship and keep the keel straight.

The final result, even if not perfect, was greatly improved.

[AlfredoCampos]

Started planking (after bevelling) and, for a beginner, bending planks is quite the challenge until you figure it out!

 

My first mistake (at least felt like it) was to soak and heat and only after applying heat, bending into form. It didn't work, when clamps were taken off the plank sprang back about halfway into its original form.

Tried to force it into place and clamp it while the glue dried, useless, it held for a bit and then unglued. Ended breaking a couple planks.

 

Finally understood that I needed to apply the heat while bending and that the proper form must be achieved before glueing, no forcing whatsoever. Also got an electric plank bender, a wonderful tool. Simply soak in hot water for a few minutes and patiently apply the bender, carefully but firmly, until the needed form is achieved. Dry fit and clamp for cooling, afterwards the planks were exactly as intended.

 

Maybe not an exact mirror, but looking rather well.

Edited 5 hours ago by AlfredoCampos

[AlfredoCampos]

Now that I've laid the top plank, I'm having serious doubts on how to proceed.

 

I've read a lot these past weeks, all manual here just to start with, and videos too. I think I've grasped the notion of measuring all bulkheads in order to find the width for planks on each bulkhead, which are to be tappered.

 

The basics seem simple, like in the picture: lay a planking band, find measurements for both bands and sides with tick strips, the goal is to have the same number of planks across the hull, from stern to bow, eventually using stealers and drop planks.

 

What is my doubt then? Instructions from both Occre and Artesania Latina (with differences) show a competely different method, whereby the result seems a planking done from the outside to the inside.

 

Occre starts planking from the keel, allowing the planks to flow upwards: the fourth plank already connects to the upper one. From there (pictures are scarce in the instructions) it planks from the top towards the keel, filling the open space as a "closing mouth".

Furthermore, the garboard goes up to the transom, not twisting it to follow the keel under the last bulkheads, this part is planked with second planking only.

 

Artesania Latina is similar and with more detailed pictures. Its quite evident what I'm calling "closing mouth". It also uses stealers and (properly?) twists the garboard to follow the keel, although it doesn't mention the need to sand the keel in the deadwood area in order to accomodate the planks.

 

Another user, Boerscht, follows Occre's instruction with beautiful results, you can check his log here: 

 

 

I can't decide how to go forward and would love to hear your suggestions. While Boerscht's build is beautiful and shows that Occre's instructions (and Artesania's, except for the garboard twist part) can lead to a great result, it seems completely contradictory to everything I've read. Those increasingly smaller, oval planks, "closing the mouth" just seem unnatural. Still, it seems results are guaranteed if I follow like this.

 

Instead, it would seem that a more realistic build would to be adequately measure everything, tapper and use drop planks and stealers on the bow. This real size ship, by the National Maritime Museum in Cornwall shows that possibility in practice.

 

 

However, I laid a planking batten to check the flow of the hull (I nailed it but forgot to photograph, redid only with clothing clamps just to show you) and indeed - if laid naturally - the batten goes all the way up to the top plank. So it seems that each full plank would need to alternate with a drop plank.

 

Would love to hear how you'd continue this build! Should I try "following the rules" for a more realistic result or go for a simpler route? Am I overthinking a begginners build ou did I get the theory wrong?!

Edited 4 hours ago by AlfredoCampos

[JacquesCousteau]

Great job repairing the bulkheads, the framework looks great!

 

On the planking, as you note, you have two options. The method given in the instructions is not accurate to how boats are actually built, but as you've seen, the end result can still look quite nice.

 

The other method will require more work but is more accurate. That said, I don't think you'd need a stealer between every full plank. Rather, you'll need to taper each plank substantially at the bow, possibly close to the half-width limit (the exact size is something you'll have to determine with measurements). You'll also need to edge bend the planks such that they curve downward toward the bow. I haven't ever edge bent planks, but if you look at my Half-Hull build linked to in my signature, you can get a sense of what planks should look like as they approach the bow. I just cut them in that shape from a sheet, but you can get the same results by edge bending a tapered strip. If you keep looking around on this site, you'll be able to find lots of examples of edge-bending that should be helpful.

 

All of which is to say, it's up to you which method you want to go with, both can look nice. Personally I find it fun to try to recreate accurate planking, but I wouldn't begrudge anyone for doing it the other way, especially for their first build.