La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025

[ChrisLBren]

Good morning group,

The keel is finished.  In some places the joints could be tighter but most importantly its straight and all the notches are in spec with the plans to receive the frames.  Time to move on to the construction site

[druxey]

Those frames will never get away.... Seriously, that is a very nice keel assembly. Looking very good.

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks Druxey - this keel assembly was not easy so I appreciate your compliment here !

[Trussben]

Looks awesome Chris.

[dvm27]

Great job Chris! It looks like those frames should fair in nicely. Your photograph reminds me of the famous Egmont model by John Franklin (Model Shipwright series) in which he assembles, fairs then separates the solid hull and reduces the frames to achieve the Navy Board appearance. His method is not commonly used (except by miniaturists) but seems to have many advantages over the way we currently build them.

 

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks gentlemen !  Thats a really nice reference Greg.  I really took my time with these assemblies so I am hoping for a nicely faired hull.  I am about to proceed with the construction site and make sure its exact to give myself the best chance of success here.

[ChrisLBren]

Here's a simple yet brilliant idea - a frame calibrated ruler.  The applications including the creation of a construction site are many.  Take the lines off the frame profile plan and apply it to a yard stick using double sided tape. I borrowed this one off a French site I have been referencing for my build. 

[druxey]

The principle of a tally stick or tick strip is an old and very reliable one for transferring measurements error-free. You will find this very useful in many applications while building a model, Chris. I have a small pile of paper and card strips that I use for the purpose.

[BradNSW]

Chris,

 

I'm very excited to discover your build log!  I immediately clicked to "follow"!!

 

You are a few steps ahead of me on my current build and I am learning a lot from your pictures and posts.

 

Thanks for sharing your wonderful and very accurate work.  It is inspiring and will help me immensely!!!

 

Keep on posting the great photos and discussion!

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks Brad - I am following your build as well - love the Salamandre !!! 

[ChrisLBren]

Construction site completed, aligned and ready for frames

[BradNSW]

Looks like a "SOLID", well laid out and very accurate bed from which the skeleton will rise!!

 

Look forward to seeing this happen.

 

Thanks for sharing for the rest of us to learn from!!

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks Brad

[marsalv]

Fantastic work Chris👍.

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks V !  Working my way thru the Hawse timbers and frame 1 installation currently - hopefully an update soon

[igorcap]

What a great start! I wish you a successful finish.

[Greg Davis]

On 6/13/2025 at 9:24 AM, ChrisLBren said:

 

Chris -

 

Excellent subject and work!

 

Would it be possible for you to describe / explain how you were able to part these rising wood pieces off? I have been struggling on how to tackle the corresponding parts on my L'Invention build.

 

Thanks,

 

Greg 

[ChrisLBren]

Sure Greg,

 

I took a piece of 7mm by 8mm (same dimension as my keel) piece of pear and milled the horizontal notches on top - then flipped it to each side to complete the corresponding notches.  Lastly I used a chisel to i finish the notches where they rise above the cut line (Cut line being the bottom of the side notches that sits above the keel proper)  Then I severed the top piece using my Byrnes table saw.  

 

Actually one of the easier operations so far on this build....

 

 

 

 

[ChrisLBren]

Plugging away at the hawse timbers - here they are after a few attempts.  Pencil marks are there for waterline reference.  I believe I need to install frame 1 first and then hope they will fit the keel and frame 1 after some adjustments - otherwise do them over yet again ! 

 

I am on the fence with nailing the frames with bolts simulated with 22 gauge square brass wire which is the most common way to do it.  I'm just not sure if I like the appearance.   I have still not decided whether or not the hull will have openings as the lines of this ship are so beautiful I may want to leave the frames intact which certainly is one reason not to bother with the bolts.  I could change my mind though.  Any opinions are welcome.  

Edited Thursday at 10:20 PM by ChrisLBren

[BradNSW]

You are nailing it!!  Literally and figuratively!

 

Now, whether to "nail" the frames??

 

 Very few people will ever notice if you do/don't.  I think planking and deck treenails are much more visible and create texture.

 

That said, bolts were definitely there and necessary for construction.  You're the builder and supervisor. 

 

I won't be bolting frames on "La Salamandre", as the space on my build is so narrow, they would be near impossible to see.

 

Keep updating us on your beautiful and precise build.

[Greg Davis]

On 7/13/2025 at 11:36 AM, ChrisLBren said:

Sure Greg,

 

I took a piece of 7mm by 8mm (same dimension as my keel) piece of pear and milled the horizontal notches on top - then flipped it to each side to complete the corresponding notches.  Lastly I used a chisel to i finish the notches where they rise above the cut line (Cut line being the bottom of the side notches that sits above the keel proper)  Then I severed the top piece using my Byrnes table saw.  

 

Actually one of the easier operations so far on this build....

 

 

 

 

One more question!

 

Do you recall what saw blade you chose to do the cutting?

 

thanks,

 

Greg

[ChrisLBren]

Thanks Brad - I may try nickel wire to see if I like that appearance better than brass and then make a decision.

 

Greg, I just used a standard blade that I use for the most part that the late Jim Byrnes included when he serviced my saw a few years back - same one I use for ripping planks and most of my cuts.  Honestly its seems a lot scarier of an operation after all that milling than it is.  The biggest tip is to make sure to accurately line up the cut - you cut too narrow and the milled parts are fragile and useless - you go to thick its really hard to reduce it to a thinner/proper thickness.  

[Greg Davis]

7 hours ago, ChrisLBren said:

Thanks Brad - I may try nickel wire to see if I like that appearance better than brass and then make a decision.

 

Greg, I just used a standard blade that I use for the most part that the late Jim Byrnes included when he serviced my saw a few years back - same one I use for ripping planks and most of my cuts.  Honestly its seems a lot scarier of an operation after all that milling than it is.  The biggest tip is to make sure to accurately line up the cut - you cut too narrow and the milled parts are fragile and useless - you go to thick its really hard to reduce it to a thinner/proper thickness.  

Thanks - I had wondered if you had used a larger toothed slitting blade.