GHANJAH by tartane - scale 1:87 - 20th century Omani dhow

[tartane]

1

I started with this model in 2017. I had already described the entire construction in 2019 on the Dutch Modelling Forum, but because this ship is mainly a ship outside the collection of Dutch ships, I decided to publish it again on an international forum.

A Ghanjah belongs to the family of the Dhows. Ships found in southeastern Africa, around Oman and the Persian Gulf.

The Gahnja, the Kotia and the Baghla are the three largest ship types within the family. 

 

I obtained the drawings for the construction from the collection of measurements of antique ships of Admiral Paris, around 1830. Furthermore, many photos of one of the last existing Ghanjah's that is exhibited at the maritime museum of Sur (Oman) were helpful. I will come back to this ship in detail in this story.

 

A photo from not so long ago. This was the main reason why I was impressed by this magnificent ship. The sturdy shapes, the gigantic sailing..... They were built from the beginning of the 19th century until the last examples that were built in 1954 (!) according to methods that have hardly changed in the meantime. The transom is strongly reminiscent of English ships, which were repaired and maintained in the same region, time and shipyards, where these ships were also created.

 

A Ghanja at anchor with sails lowered. As can be seen, this is about Latin sailing.

 

After intensive preliminary research, many questions remained, which have now been partly answered by photos on the internet of specimens that were still sailing and exhibited. Various books and accurate contemporary measurements of the ship in Sur and welcome data from experts also made it possible for me to start.

 

 

The drawing that I made in advance based on existing drawings and data.  If I build such a ship again, I will take the angle of the bow a little less, it is a bit too sharp here. Mistake afterwards. The anchor bitt here does not belong there, after closer examination.
In 2019 I took the model to the model exhibition in Bataviastad, and there I met a visitor from Germany who put me in touch with the author of a book about research into this ship. Intensive exchange of data followed and we were able to solve a few ambiguities together.

 

Constant
 

[mikiek]

Quite interesting as I am building Jabeque Cazador which appears to be similar in a lot of areas. Love your research photos!

[tartane]

2

For the construction of the ship I used pear wood. I made the hull on frames of plywood, in the same way as I described in the construction of the early pinas, which I described earlier on this forum. This model is almost twice as large, while they are both built on the same scale.

It started with making the semi-trusses from thick cardboard and I glued them to a piece of MDF. These were cut and filed until the right profile was created.

The cardboard trusses were removed and I carefully traced the outline on 3 mm plywood. For the longitudinal bilge I used 1.2 mm thick plywood. Against that, so against the end wood, I glued the bow, stern and keel in 2.5 mm filed pear wood. The half-trusses were sawn out from one side and glued on. Then I filed a little more here and there to get the course right (now the diagonal filing of the rafters also played a role). By then holding small pieces of 3 mm against the filed trusses, I was able to draw, saw out and apply the correct trusses on the other side.

The longitudinal bilge is in fact too thin to guarantee stability, deforming would be easy. That is why I glued small pieces of plywood between the rafters so that an undeformable whole was created.
 

 

 
At that stage I also made the deck in thick cardboard, which was then taken over on 1 mm thick plywood. The interior of the cabin had to remain visible. I made the walls and against them came the extensions. The roof is slightly round and tapered so each deck beam had to be drawn separately for that.
 

 

There is a corridor before you enter the cabin and small rooms to the left and right.
 

 

 

In the meantime, I was busy planking the hull. Because I used 3 mm plywood, I was able to make/glue the connections of the planks on the rafters. Each end and longitudinal side of the planks was smeared with graphite before it was attached. That causes a lot of mess with gluing, but after sanding a nice black line is created.

I sawed out the planks from a plank of 6 mm thick pear wood. On that board I drew lines every 1.5 mm. Then I sawed out the planks with a jigsaw on those lines. This created planks of about 1.2 mm that I filed down to about 1 mm. The 1 x 6 mm planks were ready for use. On the hull I attached the planks that in reality were never more than 7 meters. On the scale used, they had a maximum length of 80 mm.

The stern was a different story. There are quite a few known images, and they are all different. So I actually chose an average design. I sawed out the round arch and decorated it with pinpricks and smeared it with graphite after which I carefully sanded it off. I made the crescent moon and the octagons from very thin filed coromandel wood. I drew the black star on it. The rubbing strake looks different from that of Dutch ships. In most English ships of that time, the hull planks bumped against the planks of the wulf. A method that was adopted by the builders of the Ghanjahs. In Dutch ships, the planks continue. I made the rudder gudgeon braces in the same way as I described with an early pinas, some time ago on this forum.
 

 

The finishing of various parts on and on the deck is a story for the next episode. If you still want to see photos of Ghanjah's in person, you can search for them extensively on the internet.

Constant

[JacquesCousteau]

Very interesting model!

[tartane]

I made both decks from thinly filed slats of pear wood. In doing so, I deliberately did not take the same width everywhere. On the wharves, the tree trunks of unequal thickness were accepted and sawn. Because wood was expensive, nothing was thrown away, which necessarily meant that planks were not the same width and often tapered. You can still find this in old houses in the Netherlands that were built at that time. Of course, you also saw the same thing in Dutch shipbuilding.
 

The almost boarded-up aft deck. Along the edges I have interlocked the planks in such a way that there are no sharp points that make nailing impossible. Again, graphite between the planks.

The beams under the aft deck, which is still visible if you take the effort to peek through the windows of the transom. In front of the cabin two rooms and in the hall the stairs to the deck.

The bulwark now had to be stripped of the thick reling struts of 3 mm plywood. By doing this piece by piece and immediately applying the struts in the correct dimensions, it remains a very sturdy whole. You can see this happening on the port side.

I have roughly copied the decorations under the balustrade and the balustrade itself from detailed photos of the ship exhibited in Sur.
 

Unfortunately, the decks and railings were provided with a kind of plastic sheet, so a number of details (which I did find on drawings of measured ships) are not visible. Here you see the bitt holding the yard in place by means of the halyard block. On the right a cast iron capstan. The blue/white painted pole is the attachment point for the poles when the ship is on the beach for cleaning the hull. So this ship was built in 1954.

The top view in a certain construction phase. The 1 euro coin indicates how big/small everything is. On the aft deck the benches where the crew often stays during the long voyages. This is also where the tiller will be.
 

 

The bow with the stylized head of a rooster, characteristic of the Ghanjah.

 

Constant

[Javelin]

Nice project, this is perhaps also an interesting lead interesting for you. 

 

Kuwait Maritime Museum

 

[tartane]

Hi Roel,

 

The ship Al Hashemi-II is apparently supposed to represent a Ghanjah (?) on a scale of about 3 : 1. It is a disproportionately large ship of which I wonder if it has ever sailed. In any case, it was built not so long ago and belongs completely in an oil country like Kuwait.

The details on deck somewhat correspond to the actual equipment of a traditionally built Ghanjah, but are also three times larger than in reality.

I prefer to stick to the data that can be found with the real ships.

 

In Oman, too, much larger examples are being built nowadays, mainly for the benefit of the tourist industry. But they can't sail.

 

I would like to point out the beautiful book:

OMAN a seafaring nation.

Published by the Ministery of National Heritage and Culture,  Sultanate of Oman.

1991

 

This book honors great the traditional ships from their history and is a source for every researcher. Almost all types of the Dhow family are described in detail here. Also the entire history of their sailing.

I think it's still hard to get now.

 

Constant

 

[tartane]

 

4

One of the still not fully clarified peculiarities of all ships in the Dhow family is the triangular cargo hold. No doubt it has to do with the removal of the mast during the period that the hull was cleaned on the beach after a return trip, for example to Zanzibar on the east coast of Africa. 

 

 

 

This is the situation. The short mast, indicated here in black, is attached to the ship. The main mast is tied to this. Detached, the mast can tilt backwards and be removed. But how exactly this happened technically is a mystery that I just can't figure out. I have asked everywhere, but everyone does not know the answer or avoids mentioning anything about it in descriptions (because they don't know either?). What we could trace is that that triangular opening became more rectangular as more and more Ghanjah's were equipped with diesel engines. It is possible that the winches that had to be used for removing the mast were also driven by this. Due to the triangular shape, the mast can easily be guided along the mizzen mast. The ships stood on the beach while cleaning the hull, tied to poles. The little car is on the same scale as the model.

Each Dhow has two high vertical beams midships to which the heaviest piles were tied. The rest of the poles were then against the rubbing strakes. Why the mast had to be removed is also not described anywhere. I keep it on the ship being better balanced when it is on the beach.

 

The sides of the stern look a lot like the English ships of that time. Here too, there are widening that suggest that it concerns the officers' toilets. The photo above is of the exhibited ship on the beach at the maritime museum in Sur (Oman). But whether that function is also intended for the Ghanjah is not clear to me.

 

Here you can also see the vertical blue poles at the beginning of the aft deck. So the thick poles that had to keep the ship upright on the beach were attached to it. To the left below those poles a so-called "zuli". A toilet hanging outside the ship, characteristic of the Dhows in general.

 

I hadn't set up those widening yet, and that was the next step.

I first made a model of balsa wood that fit exactly on the ship. Lines were drawn on it that indicated the location of the trusses.

 

 

The piece of balsa wood was sawn through on those lines so that I could determine the shape of the rafters.

 

 

 

After this I was able to provide the room with planks.

 

 

 

There are also two protrusions on the stern; the crane beams for lifting a sloop

 

It is also striking on these ships that there is no clear rubbing strake. There are about three thicker planks sticking out that run along the entire length. Some photos show that there were often more than three.

Constant

[tartane]

 

5

At the moment I am ready to focus on the rigging. What immediately stands out is the simplicity of this. It cannot be compared to a square-rigged ship. The absence of large pinrails seems strange. The sails could not be reefed, they simply took two or three sails that were used according to the weather conditions. Sometimes there are only two, but often only one leech line on the sail. See the first photo of this story, where only one is used.

 

A photo of a sailing Dhow, in this case a small Boom, with one mast. Note the lack of the many ropes that are so common on square-rigged ships. Only shrouds on the windward side, no ratlines, no top, no stays, no deadeyes and lanyards.  Only a heavy halyard block that is used to hoist the yard and hold it in place and a capstan for hoisting the anchor and the yard. When tacking, the yard is put in a vertical position and brought to the other side around the mast with sail and all. The shrouds that are now on the port side then turn along and are then secured to starboard. The rigging is, as with almost all ships with Latin sails, secured with sticks (knevel in Dutch)

 

 

It couldn't be simpler. You drill two holes next to each other in the railing and put a noose through them. If the shrouds are not used, the stick is pulled out and the noose stays in place. The stick sometimes also occurred on Dutch ships near the mizzen mast. The construction as I drew above will of course also be on the model.

Because the rigging is so simple, very few blocks are needed compared to square-rigged ships. Since there is in principle only rigging on one side, the windward side, about 30 blocks are needed for a two-master like the Ghanjah.

The shrouds consist of two types of hoists. For the main mast there are five shrouds on each side. Four of them are three-block hoists and one is a two-block hoist. For the mizzen, three hoists with two blocks are needed on each side.

 

The nooses of the shrouds are wrapped around the top of the mast and are held back by a thickening. The usual method for most types of sailing ships.

For the rest, a number of blocks for the anchors, the parcel and things like that are needed. Furthermore, three halyard blocks. One for the mainmast and two for the mizzen. The lower block fort he mizzen is attached to a ring on the deck. Despite their simplicity, these ships could sail considerably sharper to the wind than square-rigged ships.

Eventually, this becomes the plan for the rigged ship. The bunts must be considerably wider. The yard for the mizzen is hoisted at the front of the mast, and not diagonally to the rear. Because the yard must be able to come into a vertical position, the lower part must be shorter than the mast. That would not be possible here for the main sail in this picture.

When tacking, the ship had to be positioned in such a way that the tension on the sail had to be as little as possible. The shrouds were loosened by pulling the sticks out of the nooses, but just before that, of course, the force on those shrouds also had to be reduced by letting the rope loosen slightly. In this case, this had to be done in five places at the same time. Then the yard had to be pulled completely upright and guided around the bow side of the mast to the other side. In the meantime, the mast was completely self-supporting. It was not held in place by cables. Then everything had to be secured again and tightened correctly.

Yet this will not have happened so often during a sea voyage. The wind directions in those regions did not change as much as with us. A captain will have already set his rigging in such a way that he benefited the most from it during the entire voyage.

In the Mediterranean you had ships with latin sails that often had three masts. This is the case with chebecs that were mainly found in the Mediterranean Sea. Then you see that, for example, the main mast had the yard on the port side and the two other masts on the starboard side. So it was not such a problem that the wind blew the sail against the mast in some cases. Competitions are still held in those regions with small ships, Latin-rigged. When rounding an end point, the entire procedure should therefore take place there. For the sake of time, they then sail back with the sail blown against the mast.

Constant

 

[tartane]

6

 

I make the blocks myself from pear wood. The method is as has been described several times before.

The necessary rope does not come from the model shop, but I make it myself. Because of the small scale, it is not feasible  to maintain exactly the thicknesses that you do follow with models on a much larger scale. I actually limit myself to thin and very thin. As I described before on the forum, I use black and white thread that is on large spools (I think one kilometer long) with a thickness of 1.5 mm. And that can be bought in shops for fishing equipment. It consists of 12 strands. I cut off a piece of about 1.5 meters and that piece alone is more than enough for all the rigging of the Ghanjah. I sift it out until I have rope of 2 and 3 strands. For something thicker I use 4 strands.

I wet this in glue water. About one-third glue, the rest water. I put a screw eye on a drill and tie the rope of 2 strands to it, for example, while it is still wet from the glue water. I tie the other end to a fixed point. Then I let the drill run until I like the result. You then have a twisted piece of rope that I then wet again and hang it up to dry. Be careful that it does not turn back on its own. After drying, you have a nice piece of cotton rope, without nylon, in a thickness of less than a mm. Because of the glue, it no longer turns back.

The rope is made as described above

The advantage is also that because of the glue water, no pieces of wire will be perpendicular to the rope. Something I find it very disturbing with wire that is available in the model store. Those ropes attract a lot of dust that gets stuck to those protrusions. If it also contains nylon, the rope is difficult to glue. The rope that I make in this way can be simply secured with wood glue without. Because the white rope is still very white, I take a little mud from the garden and rub the rope with it. This makes it a bit grubby, which imitates the many uses on a ship well.

I use the "white" rope for the running rigging, the black one I use for the standing rigging. It will be clear that hardly any black rope is needed for the Ghanjah, in fact everything is running.

Left and right rope from the model shop (Artesania Latina) and that contains nylon. In the middle the rope that I put together myself from pure cotton thread and treated with glue water.

 

 

A second method I use for glue water. I provide an old box for film rolls with glue and water. Put the lid on and shake well. Then I slowly guide the rope through, held under water by a forked slat.

Making the rigging on the windward side for the mainmast.

There will be no shrouds on the port side, which is a bit of a strange sight now. I have already described the reason for this in episode 4. In this model, I assume that the wind comes from starboard. Windward side is starboard, leeward side is port.

Furthermore, the deck hatches have now been installed and a ladder has been placed in the hold. The capstan is also present. This is placed eccentrically so that the anchor rope can also be guided along the mast. The shrouds are attached with sticks. The halyard block hangs a bit but that becomes much tighter after attaching the yard. The large mast is attached to a small pole in front of the mast. On the bulwark on the port side, the windward side, you can see the nooses that serve to attach the shrouds when the sail is fed over the other side of the mast

 

 

The capstan and the bitt to which the hoist with the halyard block is attached on the ship in Sur.

 

 

The small fixed pole on the ship to which the mast is attached by means of a seizing. Behind this is the higher hatch over the opening through which the mast can tilt backwards. This hatch is covered with a tarpaulin.

Constant

[Lecrenb]

On 5/15/2025 at 7:06 AM, tartane said:

 

5

At the moment I am ready to focus on the rigging. What immediately stands out is the simplicity of this. It cannot be compared to a square-rigged ship. The absence of large pinrails seems strange. The sails could not be reefed, they simply took two or three sails that were used according to the weather conditions. Sometimes there are only two, but often only one leech line on the sail. See the first photo of this story, where only one is used.

 

A photo of a sailing Dhow, in this case a small Boom, with one mast. Note the lack of the many ropes that are so common on square-rigged ships. Only shrouds on the windward side, no ratlines, no top, no stays, no deadeyes and lanyards.  Only a heavy halyard block that is used to hoist the yard and hold it in place and a capstan for hoisting the anchor and the yard. When tacking, the yard is put in a vertical position and brought to the other side around the mast with sail and all. The shrouds that are now on the port side then turn along and are then secured to starboard. The rigging is, as with almost all ships with Latin sails, secured with sticks (knevel in Dutch)

 

 

It couldn't be simpler. You drill two holes next to each other in the railing and put a noose through them. If the shrouds are not used, the stick is pulled out and the noose stays in place. The stick sometimes also occurred on Dutch ships near the mizzen mast. The construction as I drew above will of course also be on the model.

Because the rigging is so simple, very few blocks are needed compared to square-rigged ships. Since there is in principle only rigging on one side, the windward side, about 30 blocks are needed for a two-master like the Ghanjah.

The shrouds consist of two types of hoists. For the main mast there are five shrouds on each side. Four of them are three-block hoists and one is a two-block hoist. For the mizzen, three hoists with two blocks are needed on each side.

 

The nooses of the shrouds are wrapped around the top of the mast and are held back by a thickening. The usual method for most types of sailing ships.

For the rest, a number of blocks for the anchors, the parcel and things like that are needed. Furthermore, three halyard blocks. One for the mainmast and two for the mizzen. The lower block fort he mizzen is attached to a ring on the deck. Despite their simplicity, these ships could sail considerably sharper to the wind than square-rigged ships.

Eventually, this becomes the plan for the rigged ship. The bunts must be considerably wider. The yard for the mizzen is hoisted at the front of the mast, and not diagonally to the rear. Because the yard must be able to come into a vertical position, the lower part must be shorter than the mast. That would not be possible here for the main sail in this picture.

When tacking, the ship had to be positioned in such a way that the tension on the sail had to be as little as possible. The shrouds were loosened by pulling the sticks out of the nooses, but just before that, of course, the force on those shrouds also had to be reduced by letting the rope loosen slightly. In this case, this had to be done in five places at the same time. Then the yard had to be pulled completely upright and guided around the bow side of the mast to the other side. In the meantime, the mast was completely self-supporting. It was not held in place by cables. Then everything had to be secured again and tightened correctly.

Yet this will not have happened so often during a sea voyage. The wind directions in those regions did not change as much as with us. A captain will have already set his rigging in such a way that he benefited the most from it during the entire voyage.

In the Mediterranean you had ships with latin sails that often had three masts. This is the case with chebecs that were mainly found in the Mediterranean Sea. Then you see that, for example, the main mast had the yard on the port side and the two other masts on the starboard side. So it was not such a problem that the wind blew the sail against the mast in some cases. Competitions are still held in those regions with small ships, Latin-rigged. When rounding an end point, the entire procedure should therefore take place there. For the sake of time, they then sail back with the sail blown against the mast.

Constant

 

Very interesting description of the rigging!

[tartane]

Hi Lecrenb

Thank you for the compliments on the rigging.

Before I start building a ship model, always skratch, I do a lot of research on the rigging and technical specifics on the model I want to build.  Such an investigation can take months.

As a result, I learned a lot about the different types of ships.

I really want everything to be right and for the model to look just like the ship in full size. It is logical that I do not always succeed, not all details can be traced.

 

But I see that not every modeller strives for that. Most builders who purchase a kit simply rely on the descriptions and drawings that indicate how the model should be.

There is nothing wrong with that, in the end it is all about the pleasure of building and if the result looks nice then that is also good and a builder can rightly be very satisfied. But often I see many models that are not correct, and I mean especially models of sailing ships.

It also seems strange that it is simply assumed that what is in a museum is always correct.  For example, it is thanks to the three models of chebecs in the maritime museum in Paris that there are kits from all kinds of manufacturers on the market that are incorrect. Those models in Paris were made after the chebecs had completely disappeared. So they are fantasy models that are made from traditions and incorrect information. It is easy to determine what is not properly represented there.

 

A few years ago I built a chebec myself. The correct details were created with the help of many old images, descriptions and drawings that were made before the chebec disappeared in the early 19th century. That data is very reliable and logical. They came from people who had sailed on those ships themselves, and from scientists who took the trouble to accurately measure and draw those ships. Subsequently, that data was published. After the chebecs disappeared, many inaccuracies appeared. Suddenly there was a sloop on the deck of the chebec. It is demonstrably incorrect that there was no room for a sloop at all. You don't see that at all on original images and measurements.

And so there were more details.

 

That's why I like to explain those technical things in my descriptions of the construction process. According to other builders, and also in reality, I will sometimes be wrong of course, but then I like to hear about it and I will always be happy to discuss it on a pleasant way.

 

Constant

 

[Javelin]

A lot of original Dhows are anchored in the bay around the Museum of Islamic Arts in Doha as well. Not sure if they can be visited. I found them anchored for the national holiday, but not sure if they were brought out for the holiday or permanently (inaccessibly) anchored. 

[tartane]

 

7

For the design of the sails I used provisional sails made of paper

The yards were already finished.

To get the color of the wood of the yards in line with the rest of the ship, I made it from pear wood. When they were done, an unexpected movement broke the yard. Pear wood was therefore a bit too soft. I started again with beech wood which is much stronger in the longitudinal direction. To glue the parts together I colored it with brown watercolor.

After a lot of cutting, pasting and trying again, this became the result for the sails. I found not really good drawings for the sails. I obtained this form after studying everything I could get my hands on in terms of photographic material about sailing Ghanjah's. It all looks a bit static because it is stiff paper. The yard of the mainmast is almost as long as the ship, which is normal with those ships. The mizzen yard is slightly shorter. I also have to bend the yard a bit.

The yard is here over the deck.

 

How enormously long such a yard can be is shown in this photo, which makes you wonder why that thing doesn't break. I don't think Dutch shipbuilders would dare to do this.

 

As this photo shows, a yard sometimes looks like a collection of various pieces of round wood. The piece on the left is tied to the bottom with a rope and has nothing to do with the yard but probably serves to hang a kind of awning over it. The mizzen yard is shorter and the extension at one of the ends is not necessary. What I have understood so far is this is  teak, just like the hull.

 

 Such ships often carried a considerable amount of cargo on deck. When the model is completely rigged, I will look for a place for these crates and barrels. Until then, I kindly asked that Arab to watch the load.

Constant

[tartane]

8

 

A difficulty arose in making the sails. The only store in my city that sold the right kind of cotton for the sails, I am very critical about that, no longer had the material in its range. I tried it at a thrift store and found myself among a large collection of cute women's blouses. And yes, there was one that was made of 100% cotton and in the right thickness and fineness. For 1.5 euros I bought it and explained it to surprised ladies who were also looking there, but for a completely different reason, for which I needed it.

I made the sails completely according to the procedure I explained on my website; www.constantwillems.nl
Just before that I had slightly bent the yards by securing them in the shape on a board. Then I steamed the yards through the steam from our cappuccino machine, and let it sit for two days. Now they look fine.
 

 

Making the main sail. After the fabric was colored in a paint bath and dried, I carefully stretched it on a piece of plasticized plywood. On top of that a piece of paper was fastened on which the entire sail was drawn. Apparently there will be no doubling in the corners as usual with Dutch sails and there is also no reefing band. The sails were not reefed. In heavy weather, a smaller sail was simply raised. I smeared the leech on the edge of the sail with very slightly diluted wood glue. As little as possible so that the glue does not shine after drying. I rubbed it all around and worked clockwise. As you can see here, about half of them have already dried completely and are not shiny.

After this I cut out the sail and attached  the bolt rope against the edge all around. Small loops are then placed in the corners. That attachment was again done with wood glue.

Above the sail I have placed the yard which I have bent slightly. It looks a bit strange if it can be seen dead straight on the model.
 

I can recommend this method to everyone. Especially if you build on such a small scale as HO (1 : 87). It all stays firmly in place and because of the glue edge it does not fray and that edge is already pre-glued when attaching the leech rope.

 

The sails ready to attach to the yards

 

First I rigged the model with only the main sail. Because the sail hangs down a bit limply, I decided to keep it in shape. A small hand fan was placed behind the ship (the kind of thing you need on hot summer days if you are a tourist). I let it blow and positioned it until the natural bulge of the sail was created. Then I carefully sprayed a number of clouds on the tarp with hairspray from a distance of about 30 cm (instructions). After spraying about five times, I turned off the fan and the shape remained in the requested shape.

 

 

I drew on the tarp with a black ballpoint pen. That didn't flow out because of the hairspray. And it smells good in the house for the time being.
In any case, it is advisable to make a test first to try out how much you have to spray on the cotton to get it stiff and whether the ink you used to draw on the sail does not flow out.  By the way, instead of such a small fan, you can also use a hair dryer (to immitate a storm?)

Then the mizzen was applied and the above process was repeated.

There was a question whether this will last long. I did this treatment in 2018 and now it's 2025 and the sails still feel stiff and stay in shape. So I am confident that it is long-term.

 

Mizzen is now ready. And also treated with lacquer.

 

 

There are still a number of things to be put on, the anchors, the outboard toilet, the deck cargo and a lot of coiled ropes.

 

Constant