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Posted

My thoughts and prayers my friend, 

Bob M.

On the build table :
Pegasus  -Amati-1:64
On hold: 
Astrolabe 1812 - Manuta-1:50
Completed  : Eleven in our Gallery  ‼️

Check my complete build list HERE

Posted

Having been through this with my wife, fortunately successfully, my thoughts are with you and your family. 

Posted

Glenn,

For those of us who don’t use Facebook, do you have a link to a Justgiving page?

Cheers
Craig 

Current Build

HMS Indefatigable 

Erycina - Vanguard Models

Finished: HM Bomb Vessel Granado - Caldercraft, HMS Pegasus - Victory models, Nisha - Vanguard Models
 

Posted (edited)

Just a quick update before we travel to yet another hospital appointment.

 

I have completed the second planking on the right hand side. For the most part I am happy with the end result. I did have some acetone on hand as the planks were glued in place to wipe away any excess.

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As can be seen in the next photo I did not follow the correct method for planking around the bow but as the hull will be painted and copper plated it does not really matter for this build. I did find it necessary to laterally bend the tapered planks to get a good fit.

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I did add some steelers when planking the stern. 

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The left hand side is nearly complete and hopefully I will be able to complete this the next time I am in the shipyard. I did manage to release and reset the plank mentioned previously.

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Edited by Glenn-UK

Glenn (UK)

Posted

As I work towards completing the left hand side second planking I thought I would share how I go about adding a steeler.

 

With the plank in place I make a mark where it starts to drift away from the next plank. This is shown in the photo below. I also aim to have a full plank width space at the stern post and you will note I have also made a pencil mark on the hull near the stern post.

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I then cut away the excess material from the plank. The objective is to have about a taper that goes from about half a planks width to a full planks with. I think the next photo will help to clarify that description.

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Next I make the steeler and check its fit before progressing further.

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Once I am happy with the fit I will then glue the steeler in place. Doing this ensures I have the right space set at the stern post for the plank when fitted.

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The plank is then glued in place and all looks good. You will note I did not do such a good job this time around as I found it necessary to add a small filler piece.

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I use a very simple method when laterally bending the bow planks. I dip the plank in some water and then clamp it to my workbench. A hairdryer is then used to blow hot air on the plank to remove the water and to retain the curve.

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Once the water has been removed by the hairdryer I am left with a nicely curved plank. The curve, if necessary. can be adjusted but with experience I have found I am now usually able to judge the required bend first time around.

 

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The left hand side second planking is now complete.

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The completed hull is now ready to be sanded (and filled) prior to painting and adding the copper plating.

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Glenn (UK)

Posted

I have been working steadily on the Grecian build over the last few days but unfortunately I have not been taking many photo's.

 

I have now completed the following tasks:

a) The hull has been sanded smooth and painted.

b) The wales have been added.

c) The two rear cabins have been added.

d) The outer stern counter pattern has been added

e) The lower counter rails  have been added

f) The stern board (main and top) patterns have been added.

 

I have gone against the build  manual / prototype and opted to paint the inner bulwarks blue rather than green. I have also added a copper paint base below the water line. I will be fitting copper plates rather than using the kit supplied copper tape. The copper plates have been ordered and should arrive later this week.

 

The following photo shows the current build statis

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Next is a picture of the rear cabins. I now wish I had not painted the outer surround of the cabin doors black but it is not a show stopper. I do like the red infill I added to the tiller housing front panel however.

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I have also test fitted the tiller housing canopy. The cleats have also been added to the inner bulwarks.

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Next is a picture of the stern. I am not totally happy with the joins between the various parts, but in the great scheme of the build this aspect will not really be visible when the model is completed. Also there is an outer pattern to add to the stern main board which will make thing look better, once fitted.

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Next is a photo showing the internal colour scheme.

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Finally I have tested fitted the channels and pin racks.

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Glenn (UK)

Posted

The hawse pattern, complete with bolster has now been painted and fitted.

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I am trying out some different belaying pins which are the same size of the PE belaying pins supplied with the kit, see photo below. They also fit in the locating holes provided on the kit supplied belay pin racks without any modification. The real test will come when rigging lines are belayed to these pins to see if they are strong enough. If not I can revert back to the kit supplied pins.

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The belaying racks, 3 per side, have now been glued in place and I do really like the look of the belaying pins.

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The shot garland racks have also been glued in place, four per side,  along with the cleats. IMG_0005.thumb.JPG.e8936bc9374bfeff112302e0f019b075.JPGIMG_0006.thumb.JPG.a25c5c6b18d59af2b19f460568157ca3.JPG

Next the channels were painted and test fitted. I plan to glue these parts in place after the hull has been copper plated.

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Next it was time to start adding the various eyebolts required for the cannons and carronades.

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Finally, in preparation for starting the copper plating I have used a template to get the best fit for the stern post plates.

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Glenn (UK)

Posted

Whilst I wait for the copper plates to arrive I have moved on to the masts and bowsprit.

 

The first task was to assemble the two cross trees, as shown below.

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Next I started work on the bowsprit. After cutting the dowel to length it was a case of making sure it fits.

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 After the end cap and bees were added I then used my mini lathe to taper jibboom and flying jibboom. I also made a notch on the top of the jibboom ready for the lashing. All looks goods when they were test fitted.

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Two pairs of cleats were then added to the bowsprit. In the photo below the locating pin for the jibboom can also be seen.

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Finally the end sections of the bowsprit and jibboom were painted black.

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I will cover the detail with regards to adding the various rigging items (deadeye and thimbles) in a future post. The dolphin striker also will be added.

Glenn (UK)

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