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Posted (edited)

After just finishing U-47 by Amati I am starting on a new adventure. I already built Bluenose from an abandoned Amati kit I purchased on eBay for $40. The kit was missing some parts and had to deal with a sad attempt at planking by the previous owner. 
The Model Shipways kit was also bought on eBay for $59. It was advertised as complete but missing plans which I purchased from Model Expo for $39. I am assuming that the rest of the kit is complete. I will definitely find out during the build. There are over 100 Bluenose logs on this site so I won’t go over contents short of presenting photos of the box and its content. 

Which I never mentioned in previous builds is that I usually build on stainless steel plates and magnets including gluing and painting.  The plates clean up easily by scraping with a #18 Ex-acto blade and a quick wipe with acetone. 
On with the build.

Rick

 

 

 

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Edited by ccoyle
corrected log title
  • The title was changed to Bluenose by Admiral Rick - Model Shipways 2921 - Scale 1/64 - Canadian Fishing Schooner
Posted

You picked up this Model Shipways version at an awesome price, Rick!  Your Amati version looks great!  My Bluenose build was extremely enjoyable.  Had a fun time, yet it continued to challenge me.  And, yes, a ton of build logs out there to refer to, if needed.  I had some favorites that I relied on, but I digress.

 

Will watch your build log with great interest! Have fun, sir! 

Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

USS Constitution 1:76.8 - Model Shipways                    Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways       RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (May now never get to it)

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin

Posted

I better be following this one..😃

 

Great bargain! I wonder how old the kit is?

Your kit shows it's double planked. Mine is not. I bought mine direct from Model Expo a few months ago. From what I can see from your pics the wood in your kit looks really nice. Mine?.. not so much. To be fair, Model Expo is using better wood after mine was put together.. They told me so.

Anyway, congrats on a nice kit! I think overall it's a fantastic kit. It's nicely scaled and fun to build. You'll have fun

Posted

Thanks Terry,Greg, Chris and Palmerit. 
Terry I have a question the keel was straight forward assembly. I photocopied and cut out the plans to get an idea where my rabbit and bearding lines are then I tried placing the bulkheads. Bulkhead H appears to have been laser cut too small. It looks odd. Was yours also smaller than it should be? Before I bevel the bulkheads I may have to build up th outer edges  of H so it falls within the contours of the other bulkheads. 

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Posted
20 minutes ago, Admiral Rick said:

I solved the problem I moved H to the K position then I to the H, j to the I, and K to the J positions. They were laid out consecutively when laser cut in the basswood and I for the life of me can’t figure out why H was laser cut out of order. 
Admiral Rick

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One of my bulkheads was slightly asymmetrical. I added wood strips to it during fairing. In fact i added strips to most bulkheads. Remember I have those extra bulkheads that ME sent me. I'll look at H. I can send them to you if better. I'll let you know.

Out of order? That's weird

Posted

And, in the FWIW category... I like your weights you are using!

 

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Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

USS Constitution 1:76.8 - Model Shipways                    Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways       RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (May now never get to it)

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin

Posted

Greg  Building on steel plates is the only way to go. I paint and white glue on it directly on its surface. When the glue dries it pops right off the I scrape the area with a #18 blade. Any residue can be easily removed with acetone. The blocks are 1-2-3 steel blocks. The magnets work better than the blocks for holding down parts and when gluing parts together they can hold the in positions you can’t imagine.  
 I have enclosed an image of the glue joints  on Bluenose what it looks like when it is popped off the steel plate. I use 2 different steel plates. I is 2’ x 1’ available at Home Depot for about $8 and the other is a titanium cutting board that I paid $14 on eBay. The magnets are rare earth Neodymium and very very powerful and cost around $20. With the magnets you can hold part in positions you didn’t think were possible.                                     All the Best RickIMG_5038.thumb.png.08932e46a29c9b9b73e5529d087420ee.pngo ppl

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Today I got the bulkheads beveled cemented and braced. The bulwarks stantions  needed to be reduced from 3/16” to 1/8”. For that I made  a 1/8” jig with a brass strip recessed into 1/8” square strip wood. Then I quickly and uniformly reduced the bulkhead stations with a sandpaper barrel drum in the dremel followed by finishing with a flat file. When cementing the bulkheads I routinely use binder clip paper clamps to hold the bulkheads in position and perpendicular to the keel backbone. Also bulkhead O broke and I used the magnets attached to the steel plate to hold it in position while the glue dried. 

 

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Edited by Admiral Rick
Posted

Been doing this for many years and having the right tools. When I was in Dental School it took  2 to 3 hours to do a simple amalgam where as in my dental practice about 10-15 minutes or less. Terry I hope that answers your question. 

Posted

Not going by recommended instructions Model Shipways has you fabricate the main rail and basically guess the amount of overhang. It seemed to make more sense to place the first plank that’s below the main rail in place then position the main rail and you will know the exact amount of overhang to leave. I also plan on putting in place all the false bulkheads so I can sand them flat with the plank before I place the main rail. The instructions have you cementing them in place after the main rail is placed. To me that doesn’t make any sense because if you place them before you can cut them a little long then sand them level with the top plank. 

 

 

 

 

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Posted
Posted (edited)

I followed the recommend path in the instructions. One reason was because of my burned stanchions that you can see in my log. I wanted to get that all sorted out before going further. I also thought it would be good to start the first plank hard against the bottom of top rail and then plank downward to the first belt line as defined in the planking instructions. So, for making the railing and marking the overhang i pinned a temporary plank against the stanchions and then marked the hull line along the bottom of my top rail piece. I made sure I had at least of 1/16 inch overhang beyond that marked line.

I then installed the railing and cut the many little stanchions and the fitted them between the rail and waterway. Tedious, but what isn't in this hobby. I then cut away my burned stanchions and replaced them.

Edited by TerryPat
Posted (edited)

Many builders did the railing after planking like you're describing and did fine. My brain better aligned with the writers of the instructions 

 

I spen a lot of time with that railing. I wanted to be sure the size and overhang was correct before I started planking. Particularly in the stern section. I made sure that the laser cut stern rail piece fit properly with the correct amount of overhang around the sides and back of the stern. 

Edited by TerryPat
Posted (edited)

Terry I just quickly cut my false bulkheads close to length ( a little longer) cemented them to the water way and the first plank and then sanded them right to the first plank. Now I am ready to cement the main rail and align the 1/16 overhang with a 1/16 scab along the first plank. The whole false bulkheads installation from cutting cementing and sanding took about an hour and came out great. Before I did the false bulkheads I finished the stern area. Now the whole thing is ready to install the main rail. IMG_5169.thumb.jpeg.30bbfce6116513cd6c22b06c8d50d22f.jpeg

 

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Edited by Admiral Rick
Posted

That looks great! A nice base for the main rail. The rail is a fun one to build!

Posted

Yesterday I completed the main rail. It was pretty straightforward. I cemented th first plank to the bulkheads. Then I scabbed a 1/16” wide plank to the face of it so I could easily obtain my 1/16” overhang.  To get the shape and location of the chain plates I copied the 1/1 plans then cut out the rail and laid it as a template on the wide planks  cemented to the bulkheads and then traced the design in the plank. I used an arbor band in a dremel to remove as much excess wood as possible before the line then I hand sanded to the final shape. 

 

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Posted

Very nice job on the railing! 

Took me forever to do mine. Nice work!

Posted

Today I finished the Monkey Rail in the stern and the Buffalo Rail in the bow. To make the Monkey Rail in the stern I fashioned a mold out of basswood that the laser cut stern rail would fit around then steam bent and cemented the plank to it holding it against the mold until the cement dried. Working on the steel plate surface with the magnets really aided holding the steam bent plank in positions  that I would not have  been capable of with regular clamps. For today everything  went well and it was a rewarding day!!!!!

Tomorrow I start the very boring process of PLANKING THE HULL that I have been dreading. 
All the Best Admiral Rick 

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Posted

Looking forward to planking day. I'll be checking in for a look. 

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