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When to add the keel onto the false keel?


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I have found in several instructions especially from AL that you should plank the hull before adding the keel to the false keel.

Wonder if it isn't better to add it before planking, this in order to get the correct rabbet line?

Anyone who knows better?

Thank you

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
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Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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If you want to cut in a bearding line, then I would definitely add the keel to the false keel before planking. In any event, adding the keel before planking will make for a much neater job of planking, especially where the plank ends go into the bow and stern post.

 

If you are double planking, then there might not be as much advantage to adding the keel first, but that will be something that each person has to determine for themselves.

 

Russ

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On my AVS kit, I added the keel, then cut the rabbet and planked the hull. I think this worked well because I was able the shape the ends of the planks to butt flush against the keel for a clean joint. Leaving the keel off, you would have to have the ends extended and shape them all together to meet the keel, hmmm, that sounds like I might work well also, but I've never tried that method.

 

Ken

Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash

Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat

 

Completed Build:  MS AVS

On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred

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The shape of the hull probably has some impact on when to do so.

For my Santisima Trinidad which is single planked, I added it after the planking was completed. It made sanding much easier and the shape seems to work nice.

 

I do the garbard only from the middle to the stern earlier on and finish with the front part of the garbard to the bow as the very last piece.

Kits owned: Mamoli Royal Louis, Mamoli Friesland, Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90, Occre Santisima Trinidad, Constructo HMS Prince

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Sanding is a good point! The AVS was very difficult to sand at the junction from planks to keel (especially at the bow and stern) since it is an angled junction with a sharp joint instead of a smooth radiused transition.

Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash

Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat

 

Completed Build:  MS AVS

On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred

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My Constructo USS Constitution calls for me to finish planking before adding the stem and keel. My first model was the opposite. I'm not sure what's going to happen except I'll figure out how to make it work.

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Well this model is supposed to have the soft limewood as first layer and then topped with thin walnut.

However, it came with thick walnut base layer and then to have thin walnut on top.

But I have decided to go single layer. That's the background to my question.

 

 

My Constructo America was supposed to have dual layer, but  I went single since it was to be painted. The America also had the thick walnut base layer. The America got the keels installed afterwards which contributed to difficulties with the  rabbet lines.

 

Thank you all for the information and your point of views.

Edited by Nirvana

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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If using a single layer, I would definitely put the keel on and sand in your bearding line and then plank. :)

 

Russ

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Dr. Per,

 

What Russ said would be the way to go.  When double planking, putting the keel on after sanding (and carefull grooving, etc.) simulates the rabbet and not very well either.  I've done two AL kits and wasn't real happy with that result.  Luckily, I realized the problem after the garboard plank and was able to fix it.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Russ and Mark plus everybody else, thank you for the help, I think I have the correct directions of where to go with this AL kit.

Build log will be there, for this Project X, which has a name.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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