Muscongus Bay Sloop by pete48 - FINISHED - SMALL

[pete48]

This Is my Second Build log ,( First scratch ) .  The plan is to build a Muscongus bay sloop with working rudder and retractable centerboard. This may take 2 boats to get me there. I will be starting this build with Keel #3 . There was a lot of research and comparison"s made to the Midwest kit That I built. Keel # 1 & 2  are on the Kit build log (although keel #2 was built just to get the hull planking correct ) . Keel #3 will also have a planked deck (possibly sprung)

[captainbob]

Looks like a good project to get into the dark side.  Since you are familiar with the boat already, I'm sure you will do a great job.

 

Bob

[pete48]

Thank you Bob, I look forward to this build, it will give me a chance to do some of the things I thought about after the fact( Kit build & Keel #1)

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[cdogg]

are you going to detail the cockpit on this one? Or throw some lights on it? I only ask because your other lobster boats set the bar pretty high!

[pete48]

Hi Casey, Yes I plan to do some cool stuff to this one , Like a Teak Grating for the Cockpit floor, I did look into a 3 volt electrical system  when I started the Kit build (just basic runnig lights, Mast head light and a cabin light ) and figured on putting the battery and Light switch in the Fish well's ( I may do that )The main thing I would like do on this project is a retractable centerboard. I figure it will take 2 maybe 3 boats to get me there. This first one (Keel #3)is to have a working rudder.

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[pete48]

The first thing I would like to do , is to have a working rudder. I went back to the Chapelle drawing and added the divit ( for lack of a better term)at the end of the keel. I then Figured out the center line for the Rudder, and removed a 1/8" slot in the keel. I then made up 2 pieces of 1/8" to fit against frame #4, this will make the transom stronger and at the rabbit line I can then blend in the Keel strip. Here are the results

Edited November 26, 2013 by pete48

[pete48]

Today I did manage to get a few hours in and finished up the Rudder area, (A standard wood tooth pick works well) I then Started to install

 the frames and breasthook. Here are the results

[pete48]

Last Night I did Manage to squeeze in a few hours, so I installed the transom, beefed up the seat section behind frame 4 (this helps keep everything square) added the keel strips and stared fairing the rabbet line. Here are the results

[Small Stuff]

Hello Pete,

 

I'm following your step from the kit to scratch with great interest.

H.I.Chapelle drawing is a first class source and I like his book about small sailing crafts very much.

I'm very interested in the working rudder... but if the rudder is "alife" (instead of light inside) you can make her RC?

 

So I'm asking for the scale I guess something like 1/96 or 1/64 - am I right?

Edited November 29, 2013 by Small Stuff

[pete48]

Hi Stan,The Plan Down the line is to make an R.C version . The rudder configuration will work for R.C. the Scale is 1/24 or 1/2" = 1"-0"

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[pete48]

Today I finished Installing the frames. I then decided to add a piece of 3/32" birch plywood to frame #1 it will be easier to do it now than later. I will then stain it with a Minwax Provincial and then varnish. Here are the results

[Small Stuff]

Hy Pete,

1/24 - that's really big! Thanks for your answer - I was irritated because there is the word SMALL in the title - but it is a small boat in a large scale ... that sounds to be an intresting idea!

Aren't you affraid of so less moulds and fixingpoints for the planks?

 

Fine Work you've done! Thanks for sharing.

[pete48]

Hi Stan, as for the molds and fixing planks, in my Build log for the Moscongus Bay Lobster Smack, I actually scratch built 2 hulls. The first or Keel 1 was built because the Transom on the Kit was not correct and was able to get the transom close. (I did strip plank that boat from the water line up). Then Keel 2 was built just to get the planking correct. I did recently Varnish the hull and have been toying with floating it ( because of your previous post)

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[pete48]

Today On keel #3, I Stained and got one coat of varnish on the birch ply on frame #1 then did a few other areas out as well (Transom). Here are the results

[pete48]

While I keep adding Varnish to Keel 3 , I started on Keel 4, This one will have a working Retractable Center Board, a working Rudder and I am going to open the frames up in the cabin area. Here are the results

[pete48]

Today on Keel 3, I got all the frames squared up and the rib bands installed, Now she's ready for fairing the frames. Here are the results

[russ]

Very nice looking frame. The sheer line on this boat is outstanding.

 

Russ

[The Sailor]

Very nice work, Pete. I'm sure one day you are building this boat in full scale.

[pete48]

Thank you Russ and Richard, I have better understanding of how this boat goes together, as far as Full size, you never know

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[TBlack]

Pete,

Nice work, so far. You'll certainly end up being the resident expert on lobster smacks! I didn't quite understand why you needed to strengthen frame #1 and stain/varnish it. Will it be visible?

 

Oh, and does anyone in CDA understand what you're building?

 

Tom

[pete48]

Thank you Tom, Frame 1 is visible when the companion way hatch is open . I actually strengthened aft of frame 4 (it was a weak spot on the previous builds) after fairing the frames. I also had cut off the stern and re attached it , to allow for the working rudder  As far as CDA Freinds and family understand 

 

Best Regards,

Pete

Edited December 8, 2013 by pete48

[pete48]

Today on Keel 3 all the frames were faired and she is now ready for planking. Here are the results

[russ]

Pete:

I am looking forward to seeing the planking on.

 

Russ

[pete48]

Today I got to work on Keel 4, I figured out the centerboard & Trunk. I first cut out the centerboard (this made the keel very weak) I had made up 2 pieces of 1/32" birch plywood to cover the trunk.I attached one piece of the ply on to hold the keel together, I then took a piece of thin plastic (from the exacto package) folded it in half and cut it to 1/8" wide strip. Then I drilled a hole thru the top of the Trunk into the centerboard so that a wire could pass thru,  On the centerboard I added a loop so that it would connect to the first wire. I then cut the transom off similarly to what I had done on Keel 3, and put it together. Here are the results

[pete48]

Here are the rest of the pics to go with the previous post

[russ]

Pete:

You can add the hinge pin on the lower forward corner of the board. That will make the centerboard work. The wire rod will most likely extend up through the case a bit and then attach the rope for the tackle to that rod.

 

Russ

[pete48]

Hi Russ, Thats what I was originally thinking ,( I made several mock ups) the last pic in post #25 is the way its shown in the drawing s (down posistion) wich made the hinge point lower than I had hoped. This configuration actually works and the rod does go thru the top of the center board trunk as it should. Every thing lines up this way : Board up  or Board down. Heres a pic with the rod comming thru the top of the trunk. I spent alot of time figuring out this one

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[michael mott]

Pete this build is getting really interesting, I am enjoying your developments, I am also looking forward to the planking.

 

Michael

[captainbob]

Center boards can be tricky but it looks like you got it.  Well done.

 

Bob

[pete48]

I woke up early this morning (about 5 am) and just got finished planking Keel 3 (8 pm) there were breaks in between . and managed a basic fairing of the Hull. There is  tumblehome that starts just aft of the fish wells so the top planks are basically untouched untill  the deck is on, so that it (the tumblehome) can roll over the top . Here are the results

Edited December 10, 2013 by pete48