Armed Virginia Sloop by ortho85 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - second model

[BareHook]

The sweep ports are tough, I made a drill jig with 3 hole inline on an angle to drill pilot holes for the cutouts, then trimmed away at it until complete

[3sheets10]

Hello Brett, 

 

Your build is looking great so far! I really enjoy that natural grain planking you just completed! Quick question, what was you experience planking with strips that are less than boat length? At what length did you cut them and how did you set up the pattern of how they would lay? I am trying to decide if I want to do that with my Swift build and I saw your hull and really like the look.

 

Tyler 

[ortho85]

Ken - I wish I had thought of that.  I marked the positions using a paper template, then drilled the holes freehand.

 

My dentistry training helped, but I'm still not happy with a couple of them.  A jig would have been much better!

 

I will post photos after I have repainted and resealed around the sweeps.

 

Tyler - I am following Bob Hunt's practicum, which suggested 4" planks - I believe that equates to 16' on the full size boat.  Some needed to be a little longer, and plenty were shorter, but that became my standard length.

 

The pattern really confused me.  Here is a diagram from the instructions:

 

 

 

I hope you have better luck understanding it than I did!  I decided to pick a starting point between the first and second gunports, then stagger the ends of the planks about 1.25" for each row.  I then repeated the pattern every 3 rows.

 

This might show what I mean:

 

 

 

 

My first build was the Swift.  I think it would have looked better in short planks.

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

 

3 weeks to retirement - too long!

[BareHook]

Your planking pattern is a standard butt shift pattern, they always have two solid planks between plank butts for strength.\

 

Ken

[ortho85]

Oar sweeps drilled out, and trimmed using dental drills, needle files, and sandpaper.  Not easy to photograph - sorry for the flash glare!

 

 

 

 

 

And after painting inside the sweeps, then two coats of satin poly:

 

 

 

 

 

Now to the decking.

 

Here's a question, in the hopes someone knows.  The practicum and instructions refer to making parts of the main hatch coamings out of 3/32" by 1/4" walnut.  This does not exist in the supplied timber.

 

There are 4 lengths of 5/64" by 15/64" walnut, which are the closest I can see, but I'm always afraid of running out at a later step if I use the wrong timber.

 

Anyone hit this difference before, or any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

 

Brett

[aliluke]

Hi Brett

Looking good.

 

I hope you are upgrading the deck timber  - the basswood that came in my kit was rubbish and, in terms of finish, this was the most valuable upgrade that I made.

 

I had lots of missing strip sizes and even stranger the kit came with strips that weren't listed or needed at all. Poor quality control. I can't remember what I used for the hatch coamings. I'd just go with your instincts.

[ortho85]

Thanks, Alistair.  Do you recall what timber you used for the deck?  Looks good on your build log, and I would like to copy it.

 

Which means another question - any good sources for buying timber in Australia or online, anyone?

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[aliluke]

Hi Brett

My deck timber was found by luck at a local hobby shop. It is white cedar or Japanese cedar. By pure chance it was the right size. The guy at the shop couldn't even remember where he got it from. At $2 a strip it was a bargain - only needed about 8 strips for the whole deck which was all he had anyway. It is very hard and very fine grained. I used basswood sheet from the same shop for the margin planks.

 

Holly - I'm using this on my Fly decks - comes up more or less the same and would be my choice if you can get it. Jeff Hayes at Hobby Mill is where I now get upgrade timber. Really well milled stuff and grain/colour matched but his stuff is so popular these days that you have to wait for several months!

[BareHook]

Nice hull!

I used Holly for my deck, source: Hobbymill. Don't worry about using up your walnut supply, after completing my kit, I had a lot of leftovers. There isn't much left that will consume a lot of timber (other than the decks), the deck furniture uses various small bits and pieces plus the poopdeck is planked in walnut. When doing the deck, there were a couple schools of thought, you could plank the whole deck and add the deck furniture on top or plank around the deck furniture, either way works, but plan your layout and be careful not to oversize your coamings or the bow area can get pretty crowded for deck space. If you look at the varous builds, there are also some nice variations on the galley stack and grating being combined or separate.

 

Ken

[ortho85]

It's been a while, but I've been busy with the act of retiring!  I have been working on the model, but with fiddly bits.

 

Alert - expert help wanted - there's a question at the end of this post.

 

So, I assumed that the next step was planking the deck - wrong!  First you have to make some deck fixtures.  The practicum is very helpful, but does not explain or point you to the "whys" of each step, just the "hows".

 

Days were spent making hatches and so on:

 

 

 

The practicum method is to position these, then trim your planks around them.  I decided to use the basswood provided, in the absence of a simple source of better:

 

 

 

The planks needed a little persuasion, and I wanted to use PVA glue:

 

 

 

I couldn't see the point of the little steps out on the seventh planks from the midline.  I put them in, removed them, then finally put them back in:

 

 

 

For some reason, my centreline did not exactly match the centre of the keel.  I didn't register this until too late, but I think the furniture lines up pretty well with the whole shape:

 

 

 

For the margin planks, I tried to follow the instructions, but (once again) they seemed like gibberish.  So I fell back on simply what I understand is spiling, tracing along the area to be filled with my compass on to a section of the 1/2" plank.  I then trimmed the outer edge carefully until it fitted the waterway, then worked my way along the inner edge, fitting to the existing planks.  Here's the forward half of the plank in situ:

 

 

 

And here are the finished margin planks before sanding:

 

 

 

And again, with the bits and pieces resting in place:

 

 

 

Now it's time for steps etc to be planked, but first, the question.

 

Part way through I realised that some of these deck planks are overly long.  I see considerable variations in the decking plank lengths and nailing on other models.

 

What would you advise for me to make my deck look the best?  What length of plank, and how to to simulate this and the nails?

 

Thanks,

 

Brett

[aliluke]

Hi Brett

I don't remember the length of my deck planking but if you have a look at my log you'll get an idea of the set out I used.

 

Your work is looking good but I'd urge you to redo that grating if you have the parts and patience. The upper bars should run fore-aft and the lower bars starboard/port. Yours are the other way around. The grating should also have a slim frame on all 4 sides where it sits into the coaming (I think my log shows this as well). Minor details but they can make a lot of difference.

[ortho85]

Hi Alistair,

I checked the grating - that's the way the practicum and the current plans show them running.  As you say, it's minor.  I agree that the frame needs more tapering.  I will chamfer a bit off so that it tapers to a finer edge.

I saw your layout.  It looks good, but some of the planks look as though they would scale up to about 24' long - would that have been what they would have used on such a vessel?  I'm considering shorter lengths - very fitting for me to use short planks, according to my kids!

Cheers,

Brett

[aliluke]

To be honest Brett I had no idea about the correct plank lengths when I did my deck for the AVS. I just made it up to suit my eye. It is a pathway you can choose too. I'm on the same path with Fly = accurate to a point and then by eye. I guess the best I did by it was to get the butt shifts right and keep it all symmetrical. I understand now that 26' would be makeable in those days. That's close on 8 metres which is a seriously long piece of wood. Well...who knows?

 

I never noticed that advice in the practicum about the gratings but, if it is there, it is wrong. The top grates should run fore/aft. Never mind - only train spotters will notice and who cares if they do!

 

I look forward to your progress - she's looking the part now.

[BareHook]

You can add a butt shift pattern to the deck if you want, just grind a flat edge blade to the width of the planks, then you can score them.

 

Ken

 

[ortho85]

I decided to fake the planks, and scribe cuts, enhanced with pencil marks.  Made small holes to represent nails, but realised too late that these split the grain a little - too late!

 

Then it was on to the step and quarterdeck planking.  Didn't seem too difficult - but wait!

 

Without flash:

 

 

 

With flash shows different colours:

 

 

 

After adding the mock doors, hinges and handles:

 

 

 

It was later I noticed that there should be space to the sides of the doors for ladders.  My ladders are going to be very narrow!

 

The problem is, as a real amateur, I follow orders without question.  When the practicum said to use 5 planks in the centre, then make the door trims a specific size, I blindly followed.  Unfortunately my planks are a little wider than spec, whereas I think Mr Hunts were a bit narrower than they claimed.  Oh well - if only it was possible to read and understand (and remember) the entire construction before beginning a build!

 

Next the cannons.  How time consuming and fiddly are they?  I think I got the idea of a jig from Ken's log.  These were the carriages part way through, with the jig, and a few attempted quoins:

 

 

 

And assembled and in place but not yet finished or glued:

 

 

 

As I began the cannon rigging, I soon decided to leave out the blocks etc.  Just too damned hard and fussy.  I think they look complete with just the basic rigging (that's my excuse!):

 

 

 

As you can see, at this stage I have also added some ringbolts, the smoke stack, riding bitts, and other deck stuff:

 

 

 

There is some painting/sealing etc needed, but I still think I'm going to keep much of the walnut unpainted.  It is only my second build, and I'm still feeling my way with finishes.  And starting to figure what I should build next!

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[GuntherMT]

Looking good.  I'll be starting on this model when I finish the Carmen, looking forward to it, and good to see where you've hit snags (like the doors), so maybe I can avoid them!

[ortho85]

Thanks, Brian.  I just looked at your Carmen log.  Amazingly fast work.  I will be interested to see how fast your AVS is!

 

I (and others) will be happy to help a fellow sufferer.

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[egkb]

Hi Brett, I think the different colours in the deck looks great, kinda authentic if you follow !  Have you considered removing the doors (depending upon how you glued them there are readily available 'chemical' methods for loosening glues! ) and re-positioning them?

This is a beautiful build and t'would be a shame for you to have to compromise !

 

Cheers

 

Eamonn

Edited September 7, 2014 by egkb

[aliluke]

Looks very good to me Brett. The planking colour on the deck will settle down in time. Mine was pure white when laid and is now an even dark yellow.

 

Next? You are ready to rig and then this little ship takes on a whole other dimension! One to enjoy.The length of the sprit and the height of the mast will knock your socks off. This is when it really comes to life.

[ortho85]

Hi Brett, I think the different colours in the deck looks great, kinda authentic if you follow !  Have you considered removing the doors (depending upon how you glued them there are readily available 'chemical' methods for loosening glues! ) and re-positioning them?

This is a beautiful build and t'would be a shame for you to have to compromise !

 

Cheers

 

Eamonn

 

Hi Eamonn, I am considering redoing the doors.  I will test the difficulty vs benefit.  On the other hand, by my measurement I still have room for a normal ladder width.  It scales to about 400mm wide, so I might make up a ladder to test it.

 

Looks very good to me Brett. The planking colour on the deck will settle down in time. Mine was pure white when laid and is now an even dark yellow.

 

Next? You are ready to rig and then this little ship takes on a whole other dimension! One to enjoy.The length of the sprit and the height of the mast will knock your socks off. This is when it really comes to life.

 

Hi Alistair, rigging is not my favourite sport!  I enjoy working with wood, but not little fiddly blocks and ropes.  I think my next model might be a power boat, or a canoe?

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[ortho85]

Between making the cannon trucks and rigging them, the practicum has you fit the rudder.  Aaaaarrrggghhh! 

 

Somewhere in the dim and distant past (probably about 3 months ago, during planking) I removed the rudder from the walnut sheet.  Then put it somewhere safe until I needed it.

 

It will probably turn up when my model building room returns to its correct usage as a spare bedroom - one day.  I've searched and searched, but no laser-cut rudder!

 

So, I had to make a new rudder from scraps.  This was my result:

 

 

 

I found it very hard to cut the rebates in the rudder for the "pintle straps".  And harder to get the "gudgeons" to stick to the hull. 

 

Seems wrong to cut rabbetts on the rudder but not on the hull, too.  However, it was not something I was going to try.

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[BareHook]

I like the "made" rudder better, with the original, you had to cut grooves to give the impression of it being made from separate planks.

 

Ken

[ortho85]

Ken, interestingly that rudder is made from only 2 pieces, with grooves as necessary to simulate the planks!

 

I've spent ages fiddling with the next few bits - the joys of retirement!

 

Following someone's advice, I didn't fit the hand cannons until I had finished other fittings.  At first I thought I would leave the new timber unpainted:

 

 

 

 

 

I made up a test ladder, and decided I could live with the scale, without redoing the doors.  So I made both ladders in finer timber than the practicum/plans suggested, and I think they look OK:

 

 

 

Then I decided to paint just the timberheads, leaving the cannon mountings just sealed.  I've placed the swivel cannons in, but saw no point in gluing them.  They swivel just fine:

 

 

And now I'm making the slipway or stand or whatever it's called.

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[GuntherMT]

She's looking great Brett.  Hopefully when I get that far my planking will be good looking enough that I have a hard choice as to whether or not to paint!

[ortho85]

Next step - the slipway.

 

There is nothing useful in the included plans/instructions for this.  Yet another fault.  As I've said, I'm using Bob Hunt's practicum, so I followed his instructions.

 

I haven't got progress photos, as it's pretty straightforward.  One tip, ignore the suggestion to paint/stain the timber before assembling.  It seems obvious in hindsight that the glue sticks better to unsealed timber.

 

Here we are after adding the supports for the boat:

 

 

 

 

 

 

And after more staining and tidying:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next came the channels and chain plates.

 

Another hint for those who come behind - don't waste time hunting for pre-cast chain plates in your kit.  They ain't there!  You have to bend them from brass wire.

 

This is where it helps to have the right pliers for the job!  Even with my years of wire-bending, I could not get them perfect:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, here's the AVS sitting on its slipway, as I get into the bowsprit and jibboom:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Model ship building seems to be taking up less of my time these days.  Too much to do, now that I'm retired!

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[ortho85]

Just a couple of views of the bowsprit and jibboom.  Once again I started following the practicum, without thinking ahead!

 

The suggestion is to square off the deck end of the bowsprit, then worry about tapering it.  This is wrong, if, like me, you fasten the dowel in a drill to sand it down.  Taper it first then cut the deck end.

 

Ditto, of course, for any other items such as the mast and jibboom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The red thing at the tip of the jibboom is just the head of a pin, put in to help me orient things while gluing.

 

At this stage these are not sealed, and I am still unsure what I will paint.

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[GuntherMT]

Looking good Brett.  Are you planning on fully rigging the guns or just going with the breeching line?

 

Also I've seen a few people who have built this suggest leaving the bowsprit until after the mast is mostly rigged because of how outsized the bowsprit is, that way it won't be a pain to spin the ship around and risk breaking it off or damaging it or the rigging.

 

I'm not nearly to that point yet, so not sure if I'll do that or not yet.

[ortho85]

Hi Brian,

 

I'm not adding all the rest of the cannon rigging - I started to, but found it too "busy".

 

It would have made sense to leave the bowsprit etc. to later, but I am not renowned for my sense!  That will be put in the "next time, Gadget" memory bank.

 

I am using the Nuremberg defence - pretty strictly following what General Hunt says in the practicum.  I tried reading ahead, but quickly revert to just doing it.

 

That is why I am using PVA glue wherever possible - easier to remove and redo.  Rinse and repeat!

 

Cheers,

 

Brett

[aliluke]

All is looking great Brett.

 

The full cannon rig is tedious but I'm still happy I went the distance, that said, your rig amongst all the other details is, as you say, less busy and works just fine to my eye.

 

You really get a sense of the outrageous scale of the full rig when the sprit goes on. I put it on before the mast but switched to a much wider working space to avoid the moments when spinning the model around. I used an architects drawing table which you can lift and lower to suit. I pretty much went to standing up to do all my work from this point on - you can see the table in my log.

 

With the sprit and mast on she really comes alive.Such a dynamic little ship. Enjoy the rigging - I did!

[ortho85]

And the weeks have slipped by!

 

Next came the mast.  Quite a complicated piece.  Well, pieces, really, as there are top and lower masts.  And plenty to screw up!

 

I shaped the lower mast reasonably easily - even though I kept forgetting which way it went (forrard or stern, not top or bottom!).

 

Here is the bottom of the lower mast, with its various bits and pieces:

 

 

 

And the top, with trestle trees etc.  I had to reposition the trees - again I was glad I used PVA glue:

 

 

 

The topmast caused some difficulties.  I missed the bit about leaving a bead at the top, so glued one on after.  In retrospect, that's actually a good option.  Glued, unshaped:

 

 

 

Rounded:

 

 

 

The bottom of the top mast, after squaring:

 

 

 

Then it's time to join the two. 

 

 

In the above photo you can see little "fids", painted black, supposedly resting on the trestle trees.  The instructions say to make a hole through the top mast for a single fid.  WHY????

 

Far easier to make 2 dummy fids, and glue them either side of the topmast.

 

Finally, I think I'm getting the hang of this! 

 

Cheers,

 

Brett