Fair American by GaryKap - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48

[GaryKap]

This will be my first POB model. During the past year I completed the solid hull version of the Model Shipways Rattlesnake. I made a lot of mistakes but learned a lot and acquired some skills in the process. I selected Fair American for my next project because I like the size and appearance of the model, as well as its relatively simple rig made even easier by the larger quarter inch to the foot scale.

 

I am a bit nervous about the hull planking – especially the lower hull. But I have read and re-read the planking books and tutorials, and studied the build logs on this site. I am very grateful to have access to these. My “plan B” if I mess up the planking is to get a big bucket of plastic wood and some sandpaper...

 

I have checked the parts list, and the only thing that seems to be missing is the small dowel for the flag staff (part WP5100-06). I noticed other build logs reporting that the center keel did not line up with the plans. Mine pretty much did – but my kit has the center keel as one piece; not the two described by others. I extracted the center keel, keel, stem, and sternpost from Wood Sheet “A”. When I placed them together, I discovered that the keel is approximately ¼ inch too short. Notice in the photo the gap between the stem and the keel. I will most likely just cut a small piece of wood to fill this unless any of you has a better suggestion.  

 

<<Gary>>

 

 

 

[russ]

Gary:

The plans are most likely out of scale. They probably printed to fit on the paper they used. That would throw the scale out and the laser cut parts would not match the drawings.

 

My advice would be to test fit the hull together and see if the bulkheads fit the profile former, meaning that the top of the bulkhead sits properly on the profile former etc. You can eyeball the curves of the hull once they are dry fit together to see if there are any that are too far out of whack. If they are close enough and the fit on the profile former is good, then I say go ahead and build the model and do not worry about the parts matching up perfectly to the plans.

 

If there are any big problems with the laser cut parts, then you need to contact Model Expo directly and request replacements.

 

Russ

[GaryKap]

Russ -

 

Thank you for your reply.  I must not have stated the problem clearly.   The actual wooden parts do not fit properly against each other.  As shown in my photo, there is a gap of a quarter inch between the front end of the keel and the bottom / back of the stem piece.  I suspect Model Shipways may have a new pattern for their laser cut parts in response to complaints shown on other build logs.  My center keel (what you call the "profile former" is one single piece, but is shown in the plans and on other build logs as two pieces that must be glued together.  So I think Model Shipways made changes to the kit very recently as reflected in my kit purchased in October.  But they still don't have it right because now the keel is too short.

 

You are right - either I contact Model Shipways and request a replacement, or try to correct it myself.  I think first I will extract all of the bulkheads and make sure they fit properly and go from there.

 

Time to go celebrate - Happy New Year everyone!

 

<<Gary>>

[GaryKap]

This morning I “extracted” all bulkheads from plywood sheets “B” and “C”. To do this, I had to cut the small uncut segments holding the laser cut bulkheads. The best tool I found to do this was an EXACTO chisel blade 3/16 inch wide and as sharp as I could get it.

 

 

I quickly discovered that all of the slots in the basswood center keel were slightly too narrow (by about 1/32”) to accept the bulkheads. My work-around was to use the narrow edge of a large flat file to narrow just that portion of the bulkhead that would have to go in the slot.

 

 

After I dry – fitted all of the bulkheads into the center keel, I inspected the results. All bulkheads are flush with the top of the center keel in what will become the deck surface. I am a little concerned that bulkheads 10 through 14 do not come close to the bearding line. Should I re-draw the bearding line to touch the bottoms of these bulkheads and taper the center keel accordingly?

 

 

 

Another concern is with a defect in the plywood for bulkhead # 1. There is a gap in the middle layer that would run horizontally and be 1/8 inch wide and 3/8 inch high. I could probably find a small piece of wood and glue it in. Or is this something where I should request a replacement from Model Expo?

 

 

Thanks for stopping by. Let me know your thoughts and recommendations.

 

<<Gary>>

[GaryKap]

The planking book (Ch. 2) details the importance of the water line as a reference for establishing the location of the main wale. I placed the center keel over the sheer plan on Sheet One and carefully transcribed the water line on each side. Then I extended this line to both sides of each bulkhead, using a drafting triangle to insure a proper alignment. This gives me the location of the waterline along both sides of the hull. I can then measure distances on the plan from the waterline to the bottom of the wale for each bulkhead and transfer this information to the hull.

 

 

To help in shaping the bow filler blocks, I photocopied parts of the plan that provided templates along the center keel and bulkhead # 1. Even with these, the job was more of a challenge than I envisioned.    

 

[rafine]

Gary, you look like you're off to a good start. ME seems to have gone to plywood that is problematic, both from a dimensional and a quality standpoint. I encountered the same problems on Essex. I found Fair American to be a really interesting and fun build and I look forward to following your progress.

 

Bob

[GaryKap]

Bob -

Thanks for your kind words.  I am using your build log as my "practicum".   Yes, the bulkheads are plywood.  It is both good and bad.  There are more spaces in the middle layer of the plywood than I would like.  I can use wood filler to plug the holes, but it provides little to hold the planking.  On the other hand, the bulwarks are stronger this way than if cut from basswood. 

 

I am in the process of fairing the hull and adding the additional bracing between bulkheads as you and others did.  Also trying to figure out how to construct the stern assembly.  I had two semesters of mechanical drawing in high school half a century ago, but I still need to really study the ships plans.

 

I figured out that if I put the brass pedestals recommended by Model Shipways under bulkheads 6 and 10, the waterline is very close to level.  I drilled the appropriate holes and will add additional wood to both sides of the bulkheads here.  Seems to me this is better done before planking the hull.

 

I found some excellent history on Fair American in the book "On Seas of Glory" by John Lehman. He calls the ship a "maker of fortunes" and describes her privateering adventures.

 

Back to the sanding.  More to follow.

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

I am pleased to see another build of the Fair American and a build log to accompany it.  I also have been using Bob's log as my practicum.

My keel and bulkheads were NOT plywood either.  I guess, as Bob says, it is a new thing.

I look forward to following your progress.

Ken

[GaryKap]

Ken, thank you for your comments and support.  I am also using your buildlog extensively.  I am still in the process of  “fairing” everything while figuring out my next step...the gunports.  I will follow your lead and make them 3/8 square.  The plans show the bottom sill of the gunports as 3/16 inch above the deck.  Is that accurate, or would I be better off constructing one of the cannons and making sure?  I would attempt to have the center of the cannon barrel in the center of the gun port, making allowance for the decking under the cannon. 

 

Fairing the inside of the bulwark stanchions is proving to be a demanding job.  My work plan is to install the gun port framing, then the waterway, and then the cap rail.  Does anyone see a problem with this?

 

I have attached some pictures to show progress to date.  One “heads up” for future Fair American shipwrights – the wing transom does not sit at an exact 90 degree angle with Bulkhead 16 due to a small error in the laser cut center keel (aka bulkhead former).  This effects the filler blocks and also the stern frame installation.  Check it and fix it before you glue it in!

Now back to the sanding...

<<Gary>>

 

 

Edited September 2, 2014 by GaryKap

[KenW]

Keep in mind that the Fair American is only my second build.  But, I had the guns built and I used them when I constructed the gun ports.  Also, the gun barrels can be raised and lowered somewhat.  In addition, I am not going to glue the barrels to their carriage until I am ready to install the guns.  Just in case.

Cheers

[rafine]

You're coming along very nicely Gary. It is always a good idea to have a cannon made up to use to verify the gunport height. With regard to the interior fairing, I find it easier to do the framing first and then fair the whole structure at one time.

 

Bob 

[GaryKap]

Hi Bob -
In your build log you said that your gun carriages came from "The Lumberyard". I went to their site and see that for 1/4 inch scale, they offer carriage kits in 4, 6, and 9 pound size. Which one did you get that is the correct size for FAIR AMERICAN?

 

I need to give some thought to this because I need to do the first one right, as I want all 14 to look the same.  It looks like you and Ken went with the "square" carriage cheeks and did not try to taper them.  I will likely do the same as tapering the cheeks looks like a lot of effort on tiny pieces with a huge risk of botching the job.   Your "lumberyard" carriages do look better than those supplied with the kit.

 

After struggling with math fractions, I figured out that I could increase the size of the gun ports to 5/16 inch and this would place the top of the frame close to the level of the bulwark stanchions.  So I will go with that.  Doing all the math fractions makes me appreciate the metric system and the decimal system.  

 

Thanks as always for your help.

<Gary>

[rafine]

Gary, I don't really recall which size carriages I used, but I'm sure that what I did was to compare the size of the kit barrels that I was using to the Lumberyard barrel sizes and then to get the carriages that went with the comparable Lumberyard barrels.

 

I'm not sure what you are referring to as "tapering". The carriages are narrower at the front than the rear, if that's what you mean.

 

As to the gunport enlargement, it did cause me to raise the bulwark height slightly to accommodate the larger opening.

 

Bob

[GaryKap]

Bob - Thanks once more. 

I fitted the brass pedestals to the hull and temporarily mounted it on a piece of plywood.  Then I inserted the mast dowels in their holes and took a couple of photos:

 

 

Edited September 2, 2014 by GaryKap

[wq3296]

Greetings Gary,

 

I have this kit and am about where you are in the build. I see that you have pieced in the keel which is a perfectly fine solution. I ran into the same issue, as the laser cut keel is about 3/8" shy. However, is you check in the bag containing the wood strips you should find a 24" length of 1/4"x 3/16" basswood that could be used for the keel instead of the laser cut piece. According to page 3 of the Parts List, this is part number WP3641-24 and is called out to be used for Q deck beams. After cutting off the piece for the keel, there is approximately 111/2" remaining for the deck beams, which should just about be enough. If not, I will cut a piece of the laser cut keel for one of the beams. Just another way of skinning the cat instead of waiting for MS to send another center keel. It may be that MS intended for WP3641-24 to be used for both purposes, but didn't note it in the parts list.

 

In addition, you can use the laser cut wing transom piece instead of cutting it out of supplied strip wood as indicated in the instruction book.

 

Finally, (you probably know this by now) the stern frames are not as shown in the instruction manual. You have to study the drawings and read all the notes to figure out how the stern is to be constructed - do not rely on the manual.

 

WQ3296 

[GaryKap]

Hi there...WQ3296

Thank you for your email and your suggestions.  You are correct - the stern frames are not exactly as shown in the instruction manual. Yup, I have studied  those plans and notes and am ALMOST ready to construct that puppy.  Right now I am doing the gunport frames.  To me, it makes much more sense to put them in and "fair" them to the hull before installing the waterway. 

 

I hope you do a build log as well so I can follow your progress.

 

<<Gary>>

[wq3296]

Gary,

 

I have just about completed the transom/stern framing. Assuming your kit is the same, you will need to add 3/32" square stock to the aft end of stern frames 3,4,5, and 6 as indicated on the drawings. However, the drawings are not as clear regarding the addition of 3/16" square stock to the aft edges of frames 1 and 2. The objective is to achieve a flat, or mildly convex, aft face to the transom, ready for planking. Install said square stock on the frame aft faces followed by the transom edges detailed on the drawings. Shape these edges to match the drawings since they will be used to help establish the arc of the transom top. Fair in the entire assembly face to achieve a flat, or slightly convex shape, if desired.

 

The final shape of the transom top will be determined by the height of the transom edge pieces at the sides and the lengths of the square stock frame extensions. You can measure off the drawings for these heights.

 

WQ3296

[GaryKap]

Thanks for the tips.  These and Rafine's build log http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1114-fair-american-by-rafine-model-shipways-kitbashed/

should keep me on track to do this correctly.  My problem right now is that it is so darn cold in my (unheated) basement workspace that I keep procrastinating.  But I'll post the photos after I get 'er done.

 

<<Gary>>

[wq3296]

Greeting Gary,

 

As a heads up, you may have to trim the top of frame 16 by about an 1/8 of an inch. Otherwise, the deck won't fit per the plans. Note that the plans show the distance from the top of the keel/former to the top of frame 16 to be 7/8". However, when you install 16 it can't be seated deeply enough to take up the 1/8" because the factory slot won't permit it. Before you cut the frame down, check for yourself in case our kits are different.

[GaryKap]

Hi WQ3296 -

Thanks for the "heads up".  I did check frame 16, and mine is as shown on the plans - 7/8 inch from the keel former to the top of the frame.  And the bottom of frame 16 is touching the bearding line as it should.  So I think my kit is OK...at least this time.

 

I did build the transom.  As usual, I did not follow instructions.  I built it off the hull.  I had some stock that is the exact width of the windows, so I used that between the 3/32" square stock and glued it all together.  The photos explain it better.  When completed, the window frames snugly fit into the spaces.  And the transom will fit snugly against the stern frames.  After I glue the transom to the stern frames, I will attach the end pieces and sand the whole thing.

 

I chose not to include the false outboard window frames, again inspired by rafine.  It is becoming clear to me that although I am building a model of a model, it is NOT the one in the Rogers Collection at Anapolis that I am trying to copy.  It is the model that rafine documents in his build log...and I wil be happy if mine turns out half as good!

 

<<Gary>>

 

 

[KenW]

That is a great idea.  Wish I had thought of it. 

You are definitely well on your way.

Cheers.

[wq3296]

Greetings Gary,

 

The plans show a door on both sides of the quarter deck bulkhead to provide access to the cabin area. Typically, there would be steps from these doors to provide access to the cabin deck which would have been constructed several feet lower than the main deck. According to the plan scale, these doors would have been less than 3' high. I doubt the plans are correct in this regard, since three feet is really tight, even for colonial times. I think a companion way should be built over the doors to provide more headroom. I built a model of the Enterprise, which is a similar ship, circa 1800, to the Fair American. It has the same quarter deck layout except with a companion way for the door. Companion ways are quite typical on sail boats and other vessels. In addition to the companion way, I will be adding a sky light to the quarter deck which would have provided light and ventilation to the officer's cabins. Thoughts?

[GaryKap]

Hey, wq3296 - You raise an intersting point.  I checked, and you are correct!  That sure is a small door.  Quoting from the plans (p. 12) "It is believed the house and quarter deck as per the Rogers model may have been added later and at the same time the main deck under the house was lowered to give more headroom".  In that case, a companionway would make sense.  I also like your idea of a skylight.  That quarter deck as is looks as naked as a jaybird. 

 

I guess it all comes down to whether we are attempting to build a copy of the model at Anapolis, or a representation of an eighteenth century brig.  I am increasingly leaning towards the latter...

 

<<Gary>>

[rafine]

Gary, you and wq3296 bring up relevant issues about the Rogers model. Later, you will have similar issues with the steering arrangement,which made little sense to me (but which I used anyway). I think your last question sums it up -- what do you want to build.

 

Bob

[wq3296]

Greetings Gary and Bob,

 

I don't believe in absolutes when it comes to building anything. In my racket (professional engineer) nothing ever gets built entirely to plan for a variety of reasons. To me, the plan is obviously wrong even though the plans may have been lifted from the original model. Accordingly, I will attempt to build what I believe is more practical in terms of what works, and what the actual ship probably looked like. To Bob's point the helm setup is probably not right either. I will build the helm to stand alone and build the companion way in the center of the QD as on my Enterprise.

 

4:00 PM here - grog time.

 

wq3296

[KenW]

Wow; I never tested the scale of those doors!  And even though I only installed one, it seems it is way too small.  I like the companion way idea.

I don't think I want to tear out my upper deck to create a new door, however.  Maybe I can just add a companion way cover without actually changing anything.  I will have to think about it.

I will be interested in seeing how you handle this.

Cheers

Edited January 31, 2014 by KenW

[GaryKap]

Thinking about the skylight on the quarterdeck, here is a picture of a model that has one.  I think it looks good.

Also notice the modeler added a longboat which a ship like this probably had...

<<Gary>>

[wq3296]

Greetings Ken,

 

I guess it would depend on how far along you are, but you may not have to do much to add the companionway. You could build it out over the door you have already - it doesn't have to be centered.

 

wq3296

[wq3296]

Greetings Gary,

 

Yes, that would do nicely. On the other hand, I was thinking of a flat top version similar to the one on the Surprise in the movie Master and Commander. The beauty part about model ship building is that, so long as it is generally in scale and period correct, practically anything you build will be acceptable. It should be pointed out that wooden ships changed even from year to year. I expect battle damage, or deterioration, was never rebuilt to original specs. Ships were even modified at sea to correct sailing characteristics. So, within a short period of time no ship looked like it did when launched. This gives the model builder great latitude in making a kit unique to the builder's tastes.

 

wq3296

[GaryKap]

Here is a small progress report.  I "faced" the transom with very thin walnut planking, and was able to bend the cap rail in one piece, thanks to the help of my wife's hair curler.  Ken W inspired me to think about how I could create a nameplate using my laser printer.  I did it with the spreadsheet program, putting the name in one cell and formatting the background to black.  I have not glued it in yet, still thinking about possibilities...  The windows and moulding strip are not glued in either. 

Also I pre-bent the waterway using the curling iron and a template copied from the plan sheet one.  Turns out it would not sit nicely against the bulwark stanchions and bulwarks because of the compound bend of the deck and hull.  I had to cut the waterway strips and add scarf joints to make it work.  Sometimes the instruction manual knows best.

 

Currently I am in the process of planking the bulwark ceiling.  So far, everything is going smoothly.

 

<<Gary>>

Edited January 31, 2014 by GaryKap