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HMS Victory by Paul0367 - Constructo - Scale 1:94 - First wooden ship build


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Wow! no post for a while, varnish, yep that time as come to lay some protection on. I went satin, middle of the road rather than gloss or matt, OK so I went oil based, not by choice, I just arrived home with satin and I got oil based. Mixed thoroughly and I Painted her ( one side initially ) and she was initially shiny but after the allotted drying time she was part gloss, part satin, yes a mix, I'm guessing due two different wood types absorb differently. Nightmare see pictures, I then purchased matt and again not really looking I got water based sanded her and painted it on as a second coat and great all was looking good.

I then used the same water based matt on the other side, great, well not so great. It became apparent that the oil based satin absorbs into the wood different, well ( better deep colour really ) than the water based matt did, so I stopped, this then meant I had to satin ( oil base ) her again to get the depth, sand and then matt water based over the top, the pictures I hope show this.

Newbies go matt not satin and try oil based if available, save yourself the worry off the ship looking, well, horrible, all this is why post ceased, the ship in a satin coat looked terrible, the pictures make it look an even shine but it was far from it.

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The safe way is to Experiment on scrap wood if possible before commiting to the actual model , it seems this applies to paint as well as varnishes and oils etc  , i think you got it right about the way different woods absorb differently, more experienced readers may explain more , but the main thing is don,t spoil a years work and a great model by trying some thing which could be irreversable  ? Been there done that ! I agree matt looks best and mine also was oil but like all things others will have there favourites and i must admit my experience with anything else is limited. Hope  you got it sorted to your satisfaction  

 

Boyd

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I did mine in gloss (perhaps a touch shinier than your second pic) ... but feel that the matt looks much better.

Edited by CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve
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Yeh I should have painted scrap first but thought, varnish, how difficult can a clear varnish be, don't get me wrong I've varnished many things but not mixed woods. The satin should really dry satin, hence the name, what ever applied to otherwise we may as we be glossing, matt seams to be ok whatever applied to but a huge difference between the absorption of the two types. I'm finding now to get a deep colour I'm going satin base (oil) followed by the matt (Water) based. I was considering oil based matt but I'm sure I would be adding even more issues. The water based varnish is not easy to apply as it has a tendency to froth like soap. My advice, go oil

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Well after my sails, I have spent a bit of time adding some extra detail to some already completed work, the victory has bands around the davits for extra support and prevention from splitting but the kit didn't. I added these as it looks better ( I think) and being a natural wood kit I opted for brass.

I have also been prepairing the 3 lanterns which hang around at the stern, having tried the blue inserts I actually prefered home made yellow, so yellow it is. I have finally sealed the hull from my fingerprint attack and finally got the effect I needed.

 

Oh! anyone whom is following my build and building this kit, do not think the lifeboat davits in section 108, item 209 which are 44 mm long and only have a 4 x 4mm footprint will stay there because you are told to glue them on. Yes initially they will happily sit there alone for years on end, but for us that's not the case, we have to swing a lifeboat below them and the rigging this involves, thats without the odd hit with our hands. My solution was to drill a 1mm hole through the bottom and through into the hull and insert a pin, I used the kit supplied 1mm wire for this as its stiff enough, counter sink it and bingo its not noticeable and far stronger than glue alone.

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Completed all four davits, just the hinges to make prior to refitting

(kit just instructs to glue but the real ship has hinges to swing in the boats), also made the gangway for the bow, just the holes to cut for the rigging to pass through, talking rigging, the bowsprit has ropes which secure it in place, do you seasoned builders instal the bowspit and subsequent ropes prior to the gangway as building her and then adding such rope would be very difficult to access with the gangway in place.

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Edited by Paul0367
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Just for Fun I thought I would post my building table from the start of the model arriving, March 31st 2014 until present day. When the Mrs said what do I want to fill in the gaps when she is working some evenings, ship was it, never built one and to be honest didn't know I could.
I have got quite deep into this hobby now and committed myself regards some gear I've upgraded to help along the way. Unnecessary, maybe, to the wife, much NEEDED, you understand.

Edited by Paul0367
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Just for Fun I thought I would post my building table from the start of the model arriving, March 31st 2014 until present da. When the Mrs said what do I want to fill in the gaps when she is working some evenings, ship was it, never built one and to be honest didn't know I coul.

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The tools to hand are brilliant for this hobby, lathes for masts and my new toy which arrived today in the shape of a Proxxon MF70 milling machine which was put straight to work. This was an extravagance really and could quite easily survive without one but my it makes life easy. Used in the making of my lifeboat davit brackets.

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Build table is taking over, all my pictures are taken on my phone (Cell) Sony Experia Z1. I have just gone on my laptop and actually understand what you mean about them being large, I had no idea they were so big.There larger than the actual ship, I only load them via the phone which is where I view them and only go on the laptop rarely. Sometimes the images are over 2 meg and an app called reduce photo size,does just that....

Hope all is ok with you 

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Made my riding bits and was about to drill the hole in them as the kit instructs but after research found they actually have a sheave in them,

A sheave /ʃiːv/ is a wheel or roller with a groove along its edge for holding a belt, rope, or cable. When hung between ...

Just incase like myself you didn't know whats known as a sheave. When I was chatting to my brother he recommended a mill, what can I use it for, I asked,

your imagination is your limit, well Bro, your spot on.

Just the tops of the riding bits to slim down and there ready

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Some more for you Dave, with additions on the Kits spec, there only positioned on the deck at the moment as I've read we should pin them on, I'm just wondering what to use as a pin. Cocktail stick is looking likely, the decks stain may make it difficult to adhere to, last thing we want is them springing off when the riggings attached.

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Ahhh I'm with you now, it's the spongy package foam sipplied by some manufacturers, not polystyrene but a sponge type. I just saved it and cut it to suit then used a hot melt gun to attach to the board, sorry I assumed you were referring to the picture above your question.

Edited by Paul0367
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These rope trestles / belay pins became swamped in ropes, quite messy to be honest, pins will need to diet to get ropes to actuall wrap around. I am assuming ( not ever being on a sailing ship) this mess is due to the sails being up, well off in victory case, but still ropes in the sails up position. I'm considering using the sails in the kit so therefore the pins will have less wrapped on them.?

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I'll stick with wood, there colour disputes now, but she is suffering rot from the inside due to so much rain water entering from the top deck, there is post saying there to make her water tight. Really though it's time she got the Mary rose treatment and put her in purpose built hangar with the relevant atmosphere to prevent her drying out, she's open to elements there, rain, wind, snow, ice, warm ish sun. ( remember UK) I've read the survey alone was £575.000 and new caulking a cool 1 million. That's before they tackle the rot, it's said she could collapse under her own weight and that's with dummy cannons she wears today.

Well Ive deviated from models to show the plight of the real girl whom is almost 250 years old and suffering.

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Edited by Paul0367
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Diet of one rail completed, glad they had not been glued, as you know this would not have been possible But I never glue my parts until a trial fit and ponder.Just a few others to do and I'm done. Sorry if I post a lot but there's very little constructo Victorys out there and people like myself, new to this need more than just the vague instructions.

 

All three slimmed down a little further. Pinned ready for deck fitting.

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Edited by Paul0367
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Still doing a little bit each day, but find time to have a look at what you have done the slimming down makes them look more to scale. I have to keep checking as I have saved over 200 photos. and you keep getting work done so quick. I will have to re think painting this could be good as it sounds like I will be able keep more wood without it looking out of place

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I've logged over 450 images in cloud, painting does have its benefits ( filla ) if I'm OK to use that word on this site, ha ha also you can use any wood you like. Matching the wood is a pain. You say I'm getting work done so quick, its the equipment, its so easy to do things, like pin and cannon racks, I can drill them precise distances apart and plum centre as the mill has guages on for measuring the beds movement. Makes light work of jobs I normally found a pain

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