HMS Victory by Paul0367 - Constructo - Scale 1:94 - First wooden ship build

[CaptainSteve]

Your approach looks quite sound, Paul. Seeing what you have already accomplished with your first build (allegedly  ), I am certain you will do just fine.

 

I am unsure which builders you have already reviewed for rigging techniques, but I would suggest Geoff Matson's Constitution and Blue Ensign's HMS Pegasus. Both are excellent builds with excellent photography and explanations, and, currently, both are focused on rigging. Geoff, in particular, has done a lot of prep work, attaching lines to masts and yards PRIOR to fitting these to the ship.

 

Having been where you are going - and turning the air blue trying to belay lines when yards and ratlines are already in place - I would strongly recommend spending your time having a look.

Edited January 28, 2017 by CaptainSteve

[Sirius]

Paul,

 

You're doing an incredible job. I can't imagine how will be your next projects. I really like the finish of the decks planking. It is very real. What wood did you use and what was the process to achieve that aspect?

 

Regards,

 

Manuel

Edited January 28, 2017 by Sirius

[Paul0367]

Thanks Captainsteve much appreciated.

Sirius, well this is going back a few years, the wood was supplied by Contructo in the kit and there wood I cannot fault, it beautiful. Mukaly wood was there deck choice, I cut the planks pencilled the edges for caulking effect and a very sharp pencil for the nails. I then stained them with Colron Danish oil, Georgian medium oak, this was applied with a cloth. I am very pleased how the decks have aged over the almost 3 years of build

[AndyW]

What can I say Paul that hasn't already been said, simply stunning work. Have been out the loop due to work, but settling back down, has been such a pleasure to pick back up your build log.

[Paul0367]

Welcome back Andy, you come back and I am going to be putting the ship on standby for Feb and some of March as I'm away...

I am doing the bowsprit at the moment and have scrapped the Constructo method as its very inaccurate. Books and pictures are my plans. I am on for my 3rd dolphin striker already, two I snapped whilst negotiating past them but the pass failed and I clipped them, the third I finally changed to the correct position and thats to the left of the block not the middle as the kit has it placed. Also the rigging does not affix to a central ring as the kit states, they affix on both sides of the sprit. also the blocks are all different.... yep I am making a lot of work for myself but hey lets get her as accurate as possible. I also need to source rigging as the kits supplies green.

Edited January 29, 2017 by Paul0367

[AndyW]

Hopefully finish my existing model by end of March, then start the Vic by the summer.

 

Still been note taking and design drawing for replacement parts on the changes I will need to make.

The kit as is, will be used for the basics, but like yourself books etc is the route I will be heading down.

 

Rigging Constructo is out Amati threads in, have found their sizes are pretty accurate, Caldercraft a touch over size. Think I will be using 6 or 7 thread sizes as well as changing out most of the kit blocks.

 

I have had the luxury to follow your build, research the web and books, it has also allowed me the time to build up my "spares" stock.

[husky1943]

Paul,

  My compliments, Sir.  It might be your first build, but it sure doesn't look it!  Wonderful job!  No wonder you are gaining an audience here.

Rob

[fxitgood]

I am working on the HMS VICTORY also.  Any recommendations on how to make the 9 pane windows on the aft areas, please!  Thank You, Rich

[Paul0367]

Ah! the tiny windows which I still have to finish on mine (I missed a few ) you need to use spare wood and trim off very fine strips, (dont forget plastic window), when you have them fine enough use wood adhesive that dries clear. Use a dab off a tooth pic, only a tiny amount as the wood is also tiny. Not CA, Wood glue allows you time to position and re position until your happy with the spacing, also CA attacks plastic you will use as glass behind. Fiddly, yes due to scale we are working with but I think it really makes the rear pop far beter than a pen line. My page 5 of my log shows window panes partially installed.

Its fiddly and quite frustrating at times but stick with it.... Im in India at the moment on Holiday / vacation so internet connection here can be, basically on or off. Sorry for late reply

 

Oh the backing of the windows is your choice, kit blue, Billing kit yellow or black.

 

Paul

[fxitgood]

Thank You Paul (Sir),

Very respectfully,

Rich

[Paul0367]

Been changing things again, the rope I used for the main stay fittings was to thin, so changed for one to which I found was then to thick so this is my third attempt, as you will be aware this takes a while to fit, I have also added some bow rigging on the knights heads but not clear where these run to yet. been toying with furled sails on an old spar and I mean toying, fitting to the spar was only rough to see if I could acheive the look. Well I'm still trying but as she has her canons run out the battle look is all I can use.   

[AndyW]

Looking good mate, check here for furled sails 

Oh pastes links differently now.

 

on another note I have James Lees book on Masting and rigging good sail info, if you want something passing on give me a shout.

[Paul0367]

Any info will help. problem we have is the era of the Vic the sails are gathered in a way there not as neat as modern techniques.

Also there aint many images of the vessel in battle mode, eg which to furl. Mine was only a rough try 

[CaptainSteve]

Paul. If you haven't already done so, then check out the work done by JerseyCityFrankie. This brief log is mostly devoted to sails.

[AndyW]

Most of what I have researched is varied, depends on the ship conditions and Captain.

 

in general though it appears that the fore, main and mizzen sails would be loosely furled, makes sense, they are on the lower yards so quick to get to and prepare.

 

sprit sail could be either up or down again loosely furled or a combination depending on the number.

 

in general the other main sails seem to have been left. Still delving though

[Paul0367]

I had a look, wow that going to take some beating to get sails looking even close to that. Thanks for the advice on sails guys. 

Help! ,  see pic, ok the lower fittings on the knighthead go to the near top section of the foremast but any idea where the other two go, the kit omits all three and I have looked everywhere but come up blank. 😠

[AndyW]

Not sure what lines Paul the three shown running fwd?

 

You have the main and preventer stay that passes through the knights head and attach below the lower platform of the main mast, you also have boomkin stays,foremast stays are mounted up near the bowsprit cap,

 

That excel I sent doesn't help? Nearly finished all the standing rigging list.

[AndyW]

Update to the three on the Knights head.

 

port side from the bottom:

 

Inner Martingale

Fore topmast preventer stay tackle

Fore top gallant Stay tackle

 

Stbd Side:

 

Fore topmast stay

Outer Martingale Stay

Flying Martingale Stay

[Paul0367]

After I asked the question I found the answer, ironic, yes it really was. Well the rigging in question, is below, two lines yes as you said formast stays but the other four go through blocks and through the dolphin striker to there coresponding resting places. Our kit omits these blocks opting for a ring instead to I imagine keep it simple 

Oh I am not sure about the new site format, old habits maybe. 

 

 

[ca.shipwright]

Superb job!

[Paul0367]

I have been adding the details that the kit has omitted, this required some homework as I needed to find out what purpose these were actually used and where there rigging actually ends up. Strange such key component were decided to be omitted from there build.  

[fxitgood]

Paul (Sir),

    I know you must have lots of references for Model Ship building; but one I have found very useful is "Rigging Period Ship Models" by Lennarth Peterson.

Very respectfully,

Rich

 

[Telp]

Hi Paul, fantastic job mate, shows what can be achieved if you put the hours in to the detail. Can I ask, with the build being a 1:94 scale, where did you ounce the copper for the hull?  Was looking at doing the CC build sometime but the cost is unreal, so may look at this build myself hence the plating.

 

many thanks

 

terry

[Paul0367]

I thought I replied to the above question. I got copper reel from USA, just could not find any in the UK. I used a dress makers wheel for the detailing and cut to manageable strips. Caution pull off the backing slowly and at a very slight angle to prevent it rippling up. Oh it will get unsightly due to finger grease as you handle the model, mine was terrible until I used Silvo on her and its like new, now it's waiting to age gracefully with time. 

[Paul0367]

Well I am still here making slow progress on the rigging as I learn where and how to apply. I started seizing the shrouds but took hours to do just the one by hand. So I have just completed my DIY  2-1 ratio machine to help speed up the process, commercially available ones were rediculous in price for what it is and usually only 1-1 ratio. I am pleased as it worked very well. I don't need it motorised as its very fast and manageable as it is.   

[Telp]

52 minutes ago, Paul0367 said:

I thought I replied to the above question. I got copper reel from USA, just could not find any in the UK. I used a dress makers wheel for the detailing and cut to manageable strips. Caution pull off the backing slowly and at a very slight angle to prevent it rippling up. Oh it will get unsightly due to finger grease as you handle the model, mine was terrible until I used Silvo on her and its like new, now it's waiting to age gracefully with time. 

Many thanks. Good tip for ageing.... Rub some yoghurt into the copper, the bacteria will start the ageing process 👍👍

[Paul0367]

I have been trying to rig this ship, I say trying because it's quite a minefield when it's your first. I was getting ready to instal the standing rigging but this has to be done after the shrouds which has to be done after the running rigging parts to enable access to the belay pins. I have adopted Josh's method and fit the shrouds at the top but not onto the dead eyes. This enables me to fit the standing rigging over the shrouds and then move the shrouds to access the belay pins. I am trying to do her rigging as accurate as my scale allows, here is a few pictures of my seezed shrouds 

[AndyW]

Looking stunning mate

[ca.shipwright]

Your rigging is wonderfully neat and crisp. I wish I could come close to you results.

 

As a recommendation, I would rig all the lines that reside on the center line of the ship and move out from there that includes the lifts for the yards that belay on the foot of the masts.

Working over the shrouds is horrible, frustrating and exhausting..

 

Regards

[Paul0367]

Cheers guys, the lower shrouds are to be installed as late as I can possibly leave them so I have access to those mast as much as possible. The only reason I fitted them was to enable me to fit the standing rigging over the tops of the shrouds and hide more work.