US Brig Niagara by Laxet - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[Laxet]

First I dipped the parts in  white vinegar for about 10 minutes. Then I washed them off with water. I wasn't careful about draining all of the water from the plastic lid I used, because I had read where other people diluted their blackener. Even at that, there little dilution. I poured in a small amout of blackener, enough to cover the parts. The effect was immediate. I left the parts in for 5 or 10 minutes, but I'm not sure it even matters after a certain period of time. I filled the lid with water to stop the action (had not dumped the blackener out). I removed the parts. Then I poured it down the drain with running water. The parts had a residue on them like soot, so I wiped the all off with a tissue. Here is the result.

[Laxet]

I had not seen this trial. We'll see what happens, since I used a different product. I don't know if they are chemically the same. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for showing me that.

[Laxet]

Re: the blackening, I didn't see any signs of sweating, but I was able to rub off more "soot". The parts stayed black for the most part, so I suppose it will work for my purpose. I think I'll still paint when I can, but blacken when I need to, like on chains where paint clogs up the link holes. When I do try again, now I have a regimen I can follow thanks to Geoff.

 

So, speaking about blackened chains, here it is installed. The links are so small they don"t fit in eye bolts. I ended up using 30 gauge wire wrap wire to secure the chains to the eye bolts.

 

Btw Geoff, there is no link attached to your post.

[Laxet]

Finished the spanker boom today (except for paint).

[Laxet]

Spanker gaff. On these last two pictures, I have gone back & cleaned them up a bit. I noticed that the cheek block only goes on the stbd side, so I removed one.

[Laxet]

I see Model Expo is selling the Niagara for $150. What a bargain.

[Laxet]

Aaaaaaagggghhhhhh! I am getting so sick of spending a bunch of time doing something & finding out the next day that it is wrong & that I have to rip it all apart & re-do it. This time it was the stop chocks at the end of the main course yard arms. Since I do them at the same time, I had to re-do both of them. I put the chocks 90° off of the axis. Here are pictures before & after, the after also including the jackstay eye bolts.

[Laxet]

Thank goodness I'm only building a brig. A lot less spars. Here are all of the yards & spankers. I was looking at other builds when I slowly came to the realization that the shrouds are all single shrouds. For some reason I just assumed that they would be doubled up (like a wishbone) & seized in the middle. I know that was a common practice, so I'm wondering why this method was used instead. Anybody know?

[Guest Tim I.]

I have never tried this approach of fabricating them all at once. I have always worked one at a time. I might have to try this next time. They look good!

 

- Tim

[Laxet]

Tim,

 

I'd be afraid not to do them all at once. If I didn't, none of them would come out the same.

[Laxet]

Today I went on a paint spree. I painted all of the masts & yards & booms.

 

I need to start the hammock stanchions. Can anybody tell me what they are using for material to make these? I bought some 1/32" brass bar (the closest I could find to match the print callout) but it just looks like hell. I can't get a tight bend & it looks way over scale.

[Laxet]

Here is a picture of the stanchion I made yesterday. I think it looks out of scale. Anybody else think so?

[dmather2]

Would be willing to pay shipping for victory kit. Is it still available? Dave Mather. Davemather@cogeco.ca

[Laxet]

Started on the boats yesterday. I got the innards ground down & the lifts glued together (except for the bottoms). I will finish sanding the insides before I attach the bottoms. I've already gotten farther in two days on these than I have in 15 years on the previous set. Wahoo!

 

It's too bad you guys can't hear the soundtrack that's playing behind this ship every day. A little bit of classical, a little bit of jazz, a little bit of country, & a little bit of good old rock & roll. I actually feel a little bit sorry for youse guys.

[Laxet]

Would be willing to pay shipping for victory kit. Is it still available? Dave Mather. Davemather@cogeco.ca

The wooden one is gone, the plastic one is still up for grabs.

[Carlmb]

Would a smaller paper clip be the right diameter for the hammock stanchion? I haven't made it that far yet.

[Laxet]

So far, it looks like nobody is using round stock. I hadn't considered using wire but that might not be a bad idea. I will look into that tomorrow. Thanks for the idea.

[Laxet]

 I was looking at other builds when I slowly came to the realization that the shrouds are all single shrouds. For some reason I just assumed that they would be doubled up (like a wishbone) & seized in the middle. I know that was a common practice, so I'm wondering why this method was used instead. Anybody know?

re: post #190 - Well I think I answered my own question. Take a close look at this picture & you'll see I was right in the first place. The shrouds are doubled over & seized in the middle. Makes for less of a stack on the mast for sure.

[Laxet]

Here is more than you ever wanted to know about shroud construction. This is from Darcy Lever's Young Sheet Anchor. The shrouds are made in pairs & if there is an odd one, it goes forward of the rest.

[Laxet]

Boats, ugh! Another royal PITA. It's been three days & this is as far as I've gotten. They are going to take as long as the whole ship. I hate carving. I suck at it. I don't know how Michelangelo did it.

[Carlmb]

I used 60 grit sandpaper until the parting lines were gone then hit the whole thing in and out with Elmer's wood filler. Resand after 24 hours.

[Laxet]

Oof, 60 grit. That's pretty rough. I'd sand right through with that. I've been using 120 & my trusty Dremel. The wood filler is the way to go. Your boats look really good. We'll see if I can do nearly as well.

[Carlmb]

If you are using a Dremel 120 makes sense. I used 60 but did it by hand. Good luck.

[edmay]

Hi ,toss the 60 grit for at least 120 or better,as in many other things slow is better, and the odds are in your favour as you are most certainly going to improve your build and skill,you can take that to the bank.Patience , you are doing a fine job thus far.Edwin.

[Laxet]

I'm not sure of the grit of the Dremel. It's a little tiny drum that goes on the rubber mandrel. I used 120 paper by hand.

[Laxet]

Here is a picture of the Dremel I'm using. I've had it a couple of years & I think I've charged the battery three times.

[Laxet]

More boat work. Here one is puttied. We'll see how this goes. Planking the yawl is going to be an interesting job as well. I will start that tomorrow after sanding the other boats. I've never done lapstrake.

Edited September 25, 2014 by Laxet

[Laxet]

I lied. I never got to the yawl. I spent all day sanding the boats.

 

I ordered a serving machine. From the looks of Lever & the photo's of the real boat, it looks like at least one shroud of each mast is served all the way to the deadeye (see second attached picture). That would be a monumental job to do on my little teensy Model Expo String-Along.

[Laxet]

Slow progress today. Finally started ribbing the innards. I'm hoping all of the crappy sanding you see will be hidden by the interior.

[rfolsom]

Hello Dale;  fantastic looking build so far;  While framing,  I carved out a couple of ship's boats hulls for my Niagara awhile back, and contemplated the ribbing.  I know a lot of guys use styrene, but on accident I found that a bamboo wok brush, purchased at my local asian market, had hundreds of bamboo "slats" that split very evenly into the sizes required, and bent to the hull shape easily.  I haven't done any more experimenting with this for a while, but in my book it will be a sure bet that I will use a couple of pieces from the brush to do the framing of the boats.  Just a thought....