shaping the planks near the bow

[harbm]

Does anyone have a suggestion for how to cut and get a nice curved shape for the planks near the bow? I'm using an x-acto knife and sandpaper right now but I'm scared to splinter and fray the planks. 

 

 

[augie]

The finer grit sandpaper you use the less the risk of splintering.  Just be patient and you'll be fine.

[harbm]

Thanks! I'll try a finer grit

[Ulises Victoria]

Make sure the ends are perfectly glued and try to use only downward movement with the sand paper, preferably mounted on a wooden block for support.

[HIPEXEC]

Use all of the above techniques plus maybe add some tape to the mix.

[shihawk]

IF cutting with x acto take small slivers at a time 

[AntonyUK]

Hi.

Use a very sharp knife and cut a small piece at a time or cut close to the base with downward slices.

Then use fine sandpaper with downward strokes onto the base only.

You can use a file if it's sharp with downward strokes onto the base.

LOL reading my own text I like my downward strokes

 

Take your time.

 

Regards Antony.

[testazyk]

I use jewellers wire snips.  It's also a good idea to dab some lacquer (the same kind you will varnish the deck with) on the ends of the planks.  That will prevent them from splitting.

 

If as can inevitably happen, you do get some splits, don't panic.  If the chip is big enough and you can recover it, just glue it back in.  If there are little gaps, take some of the sawdust from your sanding and some white glue and make a paste.  Putty it over any gaps and immediately sand it before the glue dries.  You won't be able to tell there was a problem. 

 

Lastly, if it's really egregious and you can get away with it, a stringer will hide a multitude of sins!

 

Good luck!

 

Tom

[Pete Jaquith]

I cut bow, counter, and curved deck margin planks from sheet stock using a single edged razor blate and ships curves.

 

Regards,

Pete

Edited August 31, 2014 by Pete Jaquith

[druxey]

Part of the answer here (apart from the good advice already given) is the kind of wood you are using. Most wood supplied with kits is far too coarse-grained for the purpose. If you look at Mr. Jacquith's photos, you can barely see any grain structure in the wood he uses. There are several species that are suitable and really nice to use for model making, including holly, pear and Castello. Suppliers like The Hobbymill (see 'sponsors' on the home page of this site) stock these and will cut them to your specs.

[harbm]

Thanks everyone, I used downward strokes with fine grain sand paper, toe nail cutters, some water and and x-acto knife and got a pretty good result after some patient work. 

 

[testazyk]

Looks good!  The nail cutters are an inspired idea!  They would work a lot like the jewellers snips.