HMS Victory by Philg88 - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75

[Philg88]

Well, I think I have something figured out that should make it not to onerous and the result satisfactory. We shall see!

[Philg88]

Three pics showing the balsa wood/filler inserts I've added at the bow and stern to make planking easier. So far, the whole of the planking has been done with contact adhesive rather than with white glue and pins. Seems to work for me.

[clearway]

Looking good so far Phil- watch out for the tuck on the stern planking though.

Keith

[Philg88]

Thanks Keith, trying to cope with the stern angles is certainly a challenge.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

[clearway]

I used planking battens which helped a great deal with the plank run for the stern- also some stern shots of mine and other victory builds on here which should help out.

Keith

[Philg88]

Progress on hull planking. I decided that it would be easier to deal with the bow and stern separately, so I filled in one section between the bulkheads with balsa to give a good gluing/joining place. There is still not a single pin in the whole hull, which I'm perversly proud of.

[clearway]

bringing back memories of just over 12 months back Phil- keep going the end is in sight

Keith

[Philg88]

No it isn't, I still have the other side to do!   It's taken six weeks to get that far on one side so I can see it taking until September. Still, no complaints though, it's  a nice challenge.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

[shihawk]

Good thinking on the planking !,Be carefull you don,t run out of long enough planks ,although they are available from CMB . Enjoy it ,i find the planking one of they most interesting parts . Lookin great !!!

 

Boyd 

[Philg88]

Thanks Boyd. Fingers crossed should be OK on the wood but thanks for the info. I used to prefer doing deck to hull planking but now I'm not so sure ...

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

[Philg88]

Hull planking now complete. Quite a bit of filling and sanding to do ready for the copper tiles on order from CMB. I wish I could do it all over again, 'twould be much better the second time!

[clearway]

way to go my man- dont know if i could face planking mine again though lol

Keith

[shihawk]

 Philip ,I think everyone comes to the same conclusion after a big planking job , Perfection in this hobby cannot be achieved . I think it,s lookin great and unlike Keith i would love to be planking mine again ,wait till you start the finer detail ,it makes the planking seem simple .Maybe that,s just me !!!!

 

Boyd

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings Philip

Having a look around the victory logs. Well done so far. No need for fingered crossed, there's nothing wrong with the planking. Once it's all sanded smooth you will be more than pleased. Keep up the good work, and simply enjoy it DAVID

[Philg88]

Thanks for the likes guys! Nice to get the dust mask off for a while. She's looking smoother and smoother but there's no point in posting any more pics until I've started the tiling, probably mid next week. Update: I forgot, I need to fit the wales too before the copper goes on.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

Edited July 31, 2015 by Philg88

[clearway]

i painted the black on the hull first Phil so i didnt have to worry about getting any on the tiling, but yes i would recommend fitting the wales and finishing all the major parts of the outer hull before plating as the less the copper is handled the less it will tarnish, and when working on the bow and sttern you may catch the tiles if you use Boyd and mines clamping method while working on them.

Keith

Edited July 31, 2015 by clearway

[Philg88]

Thanks for the useful tip Keith,

 

To paraphrase: "I see a wood ship and I want  to paint it black" 

Cheers,

 

Philip

[Philg88]

Work in progress on the wales, which are not 100% historically accurate, but hey, I'm the naval architect on this build. Also fitted some bits to the prow just because I could.

Edited August 7, 2015 by Philg88

[Cabbie]

Hear Hear Philip That's what i think. Sounds like a good motto

Chris

[Napoleon]

I seem to have spent most of the last week thinking about this build rather than actually doing anything. I've decided to go with LED lighting as I have a working circuit developed for the King of the Mississipi project and with a build of Victory's duration/complexity, I think it's worth the extra effort. This enhancement means that I need to run power wires up from a plinth through the hull to various points around the ship. I intend to use three lengths of 6mm brass tube to mount the ship on its plinth, one or two of which will conceal the power wires. My plan is to reinforce the (false) keel with ply liners either side of the 6 mm holes for the brass rod to provide support. M4 bolts inside the tubes will fix to nuts attached to points inside the ship, which have been hollowed out of the false keel. The entry points of the tubes will be hidden by the planking/copper and in a location pretty much hidden from sight once the build is finished. Can anyone, particularly fellow Billing Victory builders, think of any reason(s) why this might be a bad idea?

You have me intrigued about these lights, have you got any pictures of what a finished victory looks like with LEDs?

[chborgm]

As you know I am lighting my Portland model. I have been using 12v 3mm and 5mm leds. They are low cost, and only need very thin wire. There is a remote available so that i can adjust the brightness. I have two circuts one with the remote for inside lights and a fixed output line for the navigation lights.

[chborgm]

I think using the tubes is a idea. I am now thinking of using that concept in some fashion. I am planning a Plexiglas base and cass. Since that make a lot of the support visible I decided not to hid the external hook  up. Using you concept I may switch to a wood base and brass supports. 

[Philg88]

@Napoleon: I kind of made up the lighting as I went along so it wasn't based on someone else's plan. As I recall there is at least one Victory build documented here that has LED lighting but I drew a blank trying to find it ...

@Clarence: Plexiglass is cool but wood and brass cover a multitude of sins. The wire I used for both the Mississippi and Victory is AWG 30 with a diameter of around 0.5mm, which allegedly will carry up to 10A (I don't recommend trying it with that load!). That makes it small enough to run two power lines through a 5mm brass tube with an M4 bolt up the middle.

Cheers,

Philip

[chborgm]

The two Plesxiglass cases shown below are light with 12v strip lights. I intend to do the same for the Portland, but may follow your use of a wood base and brass columns to support the ship. That way I could hide the wires untill they left the case.

 

The led is 5mm with resistor.

 

Clarence

[clearway]

The wales are a bit tricky to fathom seeing as billings made no allowance for them. I used pictures of stern bow and midships on the real thing as a reference using hawse holes, gunports and stern galleries as a guide.

Keith

[Philg88]

Yes, I used Longridge's diagram and some Haynes/Internet pics of the real thing. The positioning isn't actually far off the real ones and I doubt anyone will notice, unless of course Nelson is suddenly reincarnated and decides to pop round for a cup of tea.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

[Philg88]

Hi Folks,

 

Been back on the Victory build for a month or so. Progress is slow but sure!

 

[clearway]

know the feeling Phil- due to gardening, D.I.Y. and WW2 german armour distractions havn't touched my Vic for a few months now! Nive work on the stern galleries there.

 

Keith

[Philg88]

Copper tiling in progress. c 900 tiles done, only another 900 odd to go. These are the Caldercraft tiles from CMB at £2.34 per 100. I'm using a general purpose glue rather than CA as it gives more movement time, although CA is used where necessary. Also a snap of the £20 surface gauge I just bought - not sure how you can mark horizontal lines without one of these.

 

[Grey seal]

Beautiful work!!