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Everything posted by TomShipModel

  1. Ship paintings

    Excellent work Jim. Thank you for sharing. TOm
  2. Good Afternoon Roger, Thank you very much for your suggestions. It is much appreciated. Regards, Tom Ruggiero
  3. Good morning all, It was a great time working with all of you. David and Greg, thank you for a very informative class. While I've done head timbers a few times, I wasted a lot of expensive wood and coined a few new words. Next time will work out much better. Michael, it was great to meet you. Adding a few more pieces? Wow, a great job very efficiently done. The best regards to you all, Tom Ruggiero
  4. Cruizer-class Brig-Sloops of the Royal Navy

    In the piece that Chuck posted, The Brig of War Plate does show a narrow strake that is at roughly the midlevel of the gun ports. However, it is not on the model. I have seen this same narrow strake on other British 6th rate vessels like the Coventry Class of 28 gun frigates. Very interesting discussion, Tom
  5. I default to Kurt for all soldering questions. However, I can say that I've been resistance soldering for a while, specifically on chains, chain plates and other similar items. I am working in 1:96 so these parts are extremely small. With resistance soldering, I'm able to make a very convincing chain plate, soldering while a walnut deadeye is already installed. The deadeye doesn't get charred at all. I use "Cold Heat". It uses four AA batteries. I use Tix or Stay bright with paste flux. I cut off small slivers of solder and use the flux to hold it in place. Cold Heat used to be sold by Radio-Shack. According to their website, ColdHeat.com, it is also sold at Home Depot and Fry's Electronics. With resistance soldering, it is very important that the parts contact each other. This is the most difficult part of the operation for me. All the best, Tom
  6. Good morning all, I am making yards for my 1:96 Liverpool. The sixth rate frigate has stunsail yards fro the fore and main lower yards and the fore and main topsail yards. In my 1:64 model of Wasp, I was able to drill a size 78 hole in the end of the yard to attach the iron at the end of the yard. In 1:96, that simply isn't feasible. I've searched the forums and find several kit parts that Caldercraft and others supply, but these are larger scale. Any suggestions on making, or perish the thought, faking these in 1:96 scale? All the best, Tom
  7. Flag on mizzen/boom

    Chuck, I'll look for those photographs of Hermione. Tom
  8. Flag on mizzen/boom

    This has become a very interesting discussion. Based on the paintings that are shown here, as well as Popeye's first hand expertise, I'm certain that shifting the flag haliyard was done when the flag was run up to the gaff.. Now for the issue of a flagstaff and when it was rigged; my current project is HMS Liverpool, as she appeared in 1775. The plans that I have definitely show a long driver boom but both an ensign and bowsprit flag staff. The Liverpool does have a driver boom and it significantly extends past the stern, although the Swan Class Sloops, at least a few of them, not a frigate but still a sixth rate, had a loose footed driver sail (probably the wrong term). Looking at Pandora in Anatomy of the Ship (a smaller frigate built twenty years latter) there is a driver boom shown with no stern flagstaff, but also a mizzen course (rigged from the gaff but no boom). The model shown with Pandora's Box has a mizzen course with a Flagstaff. Finally, a print of a painting by Thomas Birch, of Constitution's battle with Guerriere, shows Constitution flying a flag from the driver gaff and Guerriere from a staff at the stern. At this point in the battle she is dismasted though. Same period, a painting of Constitution and Java shows Java flying a blue ensign from the gaff, with no staff. So, as to the staff and when it was rigged, I really don't know. Given that that wasn't the original question, maybe another topic. Opinions please. Tom
  9. Flag on mizzen/boom

    Yes, It does make very good sense. Come to think of it, I did see Hermione when she was in Philadelphia. Let me see if I have any photographs. Some things to consider, are that the practice may be different among English, French, United States; and that I am told, that ships in the period did not generally fly a flag all of the time. Basically, the flag only flew when someone needed to know nationality, or the fleet commander needed to keep track of his fleet. I have looked at several paintings as well as some texts such as Harland's Seamanship in the Age of Sail. As best as I can tell, if there was a flag at the driver peak it was belayed to either the taffrail or to the bulwark near the taffrail. I looked at some paintings done by Geoff Hunt, and one shows a flag flying from a stern flag staff on a ship that does have a driver boom. For sure, the staff would need to be removed for the driver boom to swing. So, I think that no one can call you inaccurate if you belay to the taffrail. Tom
  10. Flag on mizzen/boom

    Good question Christos, They would need to shift the belaying point. That is they would untie the haliyard, and then move it to the cleat on the other side. They would have the same issue if the ship had an ensign staff and the boom needed to swing. Take the staff down, move the boom, replace the staff. It would probably make more sense to belay the flag haliyard to the driver boom. I'll see if I find any other information in any of the references that I have. Frankly, given that this line had nothing to do with sailing the ship, I'm not too optimistic. Best regards, Tom
  11. Flag on mizzen/boom

    Corrected Good Morning Christos, For a flag flown from the Driver Gaff, as shown in the photograph, there is a small single block at the peak of the gaff to run the flag haliyard. The haliyard is then belayed to a cleat on the inboard of the taffrail. Depending on which way the driver boom is angled the flag haliyard is belayed either on the port side or starboard side of the boom. Hope that this is useful, Tom
  12. Flag on mizzen/boom

    Good Morning Christos, For a flag flown from the Driver Gaff, as shown in the photograph, there is a small single block at the peak to run the flag haliyard. The haliyard is then belayed to a cleat on the inboard of the taffrail. Depending on which way the driver boom is angled the flag haliyard is belayed either on the port side or starboard side of the boom. Hope that this is useful, Tom
  13. Also, a Special thanks to Chris. He did a great job keeping us all informed via email and brought along the younger generation. Tom
  14. Hi Everyone, Home from joint clubs. It was a great job by New York Shipcraft Guild. Congratulations, Ben, Dan, Nancy, Vlad, Charlie, and everyone else in the Guild. You all did a job to be proud of. The after lunch speaker was exceptional. Hyde Park will be a destination sometime soon to see FDR's collections, especially the Ship Models. There were lots of models of very high quality. The Jim Roberts Competition was very tight with the top models separated by very few points. Vendors there were very good including Syren Ship model as well as the new Wood Source. High quality all around. Next years conference will be Saturday April 28, 2018 at the same place. Ship Model Society of New Jersey (SMSNJ) will be running the Conference next time. The New York Club is going to be a tough act to follow. We will do our best to repeat a great conference. Tom
  15. Do you secure masts

    Jaager, Yes, another god suggestion. When I put in the lower masts for the last time before doing the shrouds, I'm going to insert a very small pointed pin in the bottom to hold the heel of the mast.
  16. Do you secure masts

    Good Day Martin, That is a great Idea. I have Longridge's book, but it has been so long ago that I didn't remember that detail. Thanks for sharing that. I've placed and removed the masts several times, and I'm sure that I will be doing it several times before I rig shrouds etc. The method that you use prevents enlarging the wood. Best regards, Tom
  17. Thanks for the link Frank. I understand that a lead block, or some other way to get the line to come in from the side or bellow the timber head would allow the use of the tugboat hitch. So, if I have a line coming from above the belaying point, I'll put a lead block on the deck. This hitch for sure would work. I'm working with a ship built in 1757 and I'm modeling it as it would be in 1777-1778. AS best as I can find from what I've read, belaying pins weren't in use at that time in the Royal Navy. I have a further question that I think I know the answer to, but I'll ask those who know a lot more than I on this subject. The timber head passes through a rail (as you see on the background plan of Culloden on MSW). I'm thinking that the line would NOT pass under that rail before hitching to the top of the timberhead. Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming, that belaying by simply wrapping the line around the rail would for sure never be done. All the best, Tom
  18. Frankie, A very good explanation. Although I've belayed many times, this is the first time that someone clearly defined the how and why as well as the number of turns etc. Question though: If you are belaying to simply a timber head, that is, no underside, how do you belay? Depending on type of ship, and period, belaying pins might not have been used. If belaying was simply to a timber head, what is the correct way to belay? Thanks all, Tom
  19. Do you secure masts

    I do not use glue when I install the masts or spars. There really is no reason to. Yes, if you broke one, it would be one less problem to get around. Except for the lower yards, everything was able to be taken down at sea. You really don't need to glue anything as the rigging will hold everything together. Regarding the lower masts; I install wedges to keep them relatively tight at the deck. In full scale, there are also wedges where the mast passes through the deck. This allows me to adjust mast rake as I rip. Tom
  20. British naval research

    Druxey, Thank you for that information. Very interesting that there was the forerunner of I guess a dependent care account back then. Tom
  21. NMM at Greenwich

    Thank you Michael. Well done.
  22. Good morning everyone, I am contemplating putting sails on my current project, HMS Liverpool of 1757. The model is 1:96. If I do sails, I'm going to use silk span. Somewhere on MSW, I read a method of using silk span, and printing the tabling and sail plan using an inkjet printer. I did a word search of the forums and did not find it. Frankly, I don't remember if it was a separate topic or a build log. It looked very promising. So, hopefully one or more of you have a better memory that I. Thanks for any and all help, Tom
  23. DSC_0385.JPG

    Excellent job. The detail is very good, especially the rigging etc.
  24. Airbrush

    Ron, Thank you for posting the video. I haven't use an airbrush at all up to now but I do have two. At some point I will give it a try. I wish that I had seen this video before I got the air brushes because I had no idea what I have and why they would work or not. Now I do have the guidance that I need, and chances are the airbrushes that I have might not be the right fit. Anyway, this video is a must for anyone who is even thinking about using an air brush.
  25. Good morning all, As said previously on this thread, I second that you keep both. I have both and do occasionally use the Preac for very fine work, and when I'm too lazy to change blades. To be totally honest though, I haven't used my Preac in a while. The Byrnes saw I use almost every day that I'm working in the shop. Before I had my Byrnes saw, I made gratings with the Preac. The gratings for my current build (1:96) were made with the Byrnes saw. As far as blades go, Thurston in Rhode Island is first rate. I've used them several times and never been disappointed. This is doubly special because most of their business is with professional jewelers and the like. No order is too small. Their customer service is tremendous. I've ordered from them on Monday, and got blades on Friday of the same week. Google their website to access their catalog and request a quote. In a day or two you have a quote and instructions on ordering. They are first class and the blades are excellent. The three most used power tools in my shop are all be Jim Byrnes. The saw most of the time, followed by the disc and thickness sanders. I have sheets that I first thickness as needed and then cut on my Byrnes saw. Best regards,