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  1. I realize that not too many modelers have a milling machine, but for those lucky enough to have one, I would venture to say that it is a very versatile and useful tool for scratch builders as well as those who want a bit more accuracy in cutting material. I am constantly learning to use mine with new ideas for fixtures and techniques. Perhaps we can share some ideas on this thread. A couple years ago there was a thread dealing with this subject and I like to revamp that: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4320-milling-work-and-miniature-jig-making/page-2?hl=+milling%20+machine. Let me show you a few things I have done to and with my machine. When I first got it, I wanted to learn the basics and made this aluminum slitting fixture. It can be used to make slots or even cut planks. Now I don’t use it too much anymore, because it takes a while to set up and takes away space on the table. I have a four inch vise that is very accurate. Using the parallels underneath this piece of pear, I was able to machine this log of gun carriages. After the milling I cut slabs that were only 0.050 inch thick. When I decided to make my own gratings, I had to make a decision about square or round holes. After some experimenting I gave up making square holes. Now I find it hard to tell if the grating has square or round holes (when viewed a few inches or more away). My point here is that I placed the grating material on a piece of plywood that was clamped to the table and used the mill’s x-y table movements to accurately drill the holes. Since then I don’t use the metal clamps that you see in the picture above. I made a number of wooden clamps and blocks that do a better and safer job. Here is a set up using those clamps. It was part of my cross section work. More on the next post.
  2. I am sure you are all well aware that there are several brands of CA adhesive on the market. I am curious which you prefer. Here is my view. The formulation of this rapid curing adhesive dates back to when Harry Coover working at Kodak developed and used it to splice movie film. I remember using this as Eastman 910. Loctite came into the picture and made its own version. Since then there are several more, but (to the best of my knowledge) they all depend on the same chemistry. However, what I found is that for my use in building models I rely on three types depending on its application and viscosity. The original Eastman 910 was very thin (low viscosity) and was good for smooth surfaces (such as movie film). This is the case for most on the market today. I have been using a somewhat higher viscosity type called Medium CA by Zap-A-Gap. It is good for most applications such as threads, cloth, wood and other porous materials. Then there is one that has lots of fillers and has high viscosity. It is referred to as 'Gel Control' made by Loctite. it is good for making those 'knots' on the rat lines shown in an earlier post. It has good gap filling properties while still bonding pretty well for most bonding jobs. Here is are the three I referred to: