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    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. Thanks, guys. I'll go with red bulwarks on the gun deck too!
  2. The bulwarks on the upper (spar) deck of a 18th century warship were painted red, along with other deck furniture. What about the bulwarks on the second deck or gun deck? Were they also typically painted red? Perhaps white, to brighten the dark space a bit.
  3. Truly awesome, Michael! And after only one workshop. You may have found your niche! It was a fun workshop, and very informative. I highly recommend these to anyone serious about ship modeling. It was great to match faces to familiar name! Looking forward to next year.
  4. Looking good, guys! I hate char also. My 1:32 AVS by Lauck Street was CNC milled. What a pleasure to work with!
  5. Amazing work! The interior shot is awesome...so real. I can't wait to see more!
  6. I decided to finish off the bow planking as Greg did, then installed the lower rail. The main rail is finished. Once it's mounted, the homework assignment is completed.
  7. The upper cheek was fitted in place and scarfed to the hair bracket. That assembly was sanded to final shape and glued in place. The cheeks were then sanded so the faces are parallel and flush. I also finished the detail in the scroll work at the end of the bracket.
  8. The 1/32" plywood that forms the "skin" of the curved bow was glued along it's base to the assembly. When dry, the outer surface of the plywood was moistened with water which allowed it to bend in a curve against the three supports. Two little yellow nails and some rubber bands hold it in place until the glue dries.
  9. Not sure if it's appropriate to post here, but I didn't want to start a build log for this mini project, so I'll post my progress in this thread. Admin: I'll move this if you'd like! I started with a scrap of baltic birch plywood, 1/4" sized to 5-1/2" X 5-1/2" as a back board. I cleaned the laser char from all the parts and tapered the knee of the head from the stem to the knee. I then glued the stem/knee piece and the interlocking piece to the backboard. I then glued the support frames for the curved bow to the interlocking piece using the tabs and clamping them to small angle irons to ensure they are perpendicular to the interlocking piece. In reinforced the supports with some 1/4" X 1/4" stock. Next is adding the 1/32" plywood that forms the "skin" of the curve of the bow.
  10. Greg: The first step in the instructions is to taper the knee of the head from the stem to the tip of the knee. Since this piece will be glued to the backboard, the taper is on the outer, non-glued face of the knee, right? Otherwise the piece won't glue down flat.