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    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. Nice work, Bob! Are you planning to rig the gun port covers?
  2. Thanks, Bob, and everyone for the "likes". Almost done! I'm in the home stretch now. I finished the poly, installed the main mast bitts and glued the mast in place, installed the brass stanchions for the guard rails on the ladder hatch and rigged the safety lines, and glued the carronades in place. All that's left: -mount the hammock netting stanchions. -mount the gun port lids. -Mount the deadeyes and chain plates and finish the channels
  3. Great job, David! She looks great. I'm looking forward to following you Morgan build.
  4. I had a nice 3/4" thick walnut cutoff in the shop. I cut it to an elongated octagon shape and routed a profile on the edges. I wiped on several coats of wiping poly. To mount the model a took a two pieces of brass rod, 1/16" diameter and epoxied them into two holes I drilled into the keel from the bottom. I the took 2 pieces of 1/16" I.D. brass tubing and mounted them in holes I drilled in the wood base. The brass rod fits inside the tubing and supports the model. I added the two channels and belaying pin racks and started putting the final coats of poly on. Remaining jobs: -finish the poly. -mount the deadeyes and chain plates. -install the main mast bitts and glue the mast in place. -install the brass stanchions for the guard rails on the ladder hatch. -glue the carronades in place. -mount the hammock netting stanchions. -mount the gun port lids.
  5. We were following the plans for treenail locations. The drawings were imported into CAD and used to guide the laser etching which created the treenails. I have seen the gun port planks handled both ways, on modern day as well as contemporary models. I personally prefer the diagonal pattern at the gun ports.
  6. No! Since this is a cross section, it is as if one "cut out" a section of the ship. If the plank truly ended at the edge of the slice, then yes. the treenails should be above each other as they are on all the butt joints on the model. The planks actually continue on beyond the cross section, so the diagonal orientation is appropriate. It is how it would be on the whole model.
  7. I built the clamp, Mark. Pretty easy and it works well. Here's a link: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/12895-independence-1775-by-docblake-artesania-latina-516-scale/&page=3
  8. Thanks, guys, much appreciated ! It’s not really a bad kit...it just needs work!
  9. I finally got around to gluing the boarding steps to the hull. The first step was to draw a vertical line lightly in pencil as a guide so the steps line up one below the next. I laid out the pattern of the steps so that the spacing between steps is correct, using double sided tape. See the photo in my post above. I then started gluing the steps to match this layout on the opposite side. To glue I used two small drops of WeldBond and three tiny drops of gel CA. It worked well. In the photos you can also a fife rail with belaying pins an the bulwark, and the aft bit at the level of the main mast. The holes above the gun ports are to mount the lids with pins and glue. The channels and deadeyes are next. I do have one dilemma! Most (but not all) British naval vessels had hammock netting attached to stanchions on the main rail. The stanchions are included in the kit , as is some white gauzy fabric to make the netting. I think it will look like crap. I'm thinking of mounting the stanchions and their ropes without adding the netting. What do you think? BTW: The keel clamp the model is sitting in is one I designed and build myself. I used fancy plastic star knobs for all the carriage bolts, but if you use plain old thumb screws, you could build the whole thing for about $5 if you have some scrap hardwood laying around!
  10. Thanks Yves and Michael, and for all the “likes”!
  11. I wiped poly on all the parts after pinning and gluing the support columns to the deck beams. I used epoxy, and the joints are very strong. The upper deck/column assembly will simply be glued to the deck clamp and lower deck. The fit is perfect and no pinning is necessary. The hatch grating is boxwood and laser cut. The coaming is rosewood with half lap joints at the corners. There is a small "shelf" under the coaming to support the grating. It just drops into place. Both have poly on them.
  12. Beautiful job rigging those guns, Bob!
  13. Great job, David! The rigging turned out very very nicely.
  14. Don turned 6 support columns for each of us, and as it happened, we all chose a different design. The extra one is insurance against our propensity to screw things up! The first photo shows the three sets of blanks. I cut mine slightly (1/32") long so I could fine tune the fit to any irregularities in the upper deck beams or lower deck surface. The dry fit worked out well. the columns were then numbered on the bottom so they go back in the right place. Each was trimmed/sanded so all 5 rested on the lower deck, and none were "suspended " in air!
  15. Today I cut and custom fit the hanging knees. There are just three: one each at the two end deck beams and one at the center one. To fit them, they must bear against the hull planking and the deck beam, and the must be notched out for the lodging knees and the deck clamp. I made a template, traced the final result onto my hanging knee blanks, cut out the notches on my scroll saw, and final-fit them with a sanding stick and some files.

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