DocBlake

Members
  • Content count

    853
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DocBlake

  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

Recent Profile Visitors

585 profile views
  1. I've glued up 5 of the 9 frames and I'm noticing some "tolerance creep". When I enlarge the frame parts to 200%, the lines outlining the parts get some real thickness to them: 1/32" - 3/64"). This is especially a problem where the frames butt each other. They need to be accurate or the frame doesn't match the plans, and things like gun port lintels and sills are thrown off. I've already noticed some slight inconsistencies as I glue up the frames. They are not matching 100% and on both sides of the frame. The errors are small...in the range of 1/32", but they are there. Hopefully I can figure out a fix when the time comes. Very thin shims will likely be the answer for any frame component too short at the top timbers, with trimming if they are slightly long. This problem is a function of the large scale of the model (1/24). Has anyone else encountered this problem?
  2. Great tutorial, Don! And continuing great work on the model. BTW: Before the switch in software, MSW "content I follow" always listed the latest comment on a topic first, with the other comments on other topics chronologically in order. You were always able to keep up with the latest developments. With the current setup, that's not the case. Despite the post above mine (Mike's) posted 14 hours ago, this build log and it's latest post remain on page 5 of my "content I follow" menu. Can that be fixed? Anyone know?
  3. Tony, I think the Triton area has been re-opened to new builders once again. Access to the build files is available after producing a keel, false keel and keelsonas it had been..
  4. The masts and sprit are done except for the boom rests. Rigging soon!
  5. You are right Brian! When I measured the footprint I measured between the top timbers. The tumblehome gave the smaller measurement. The beam is really 16-3/4". It will be a big model! The Admiral would probably not agree about me being a "twig".
  6. Thanks, Eddie. Milestone! The first frame is glued up. I'll finish all nine before rough sanding them.
  7. I laid out the futtocks for frame #1 on the billets. There are 11 parts per double frame and 9 frames in all. I'll glue up frame #1 today and cut out frame #2 also.
  8. Great progress, Zoltan. The planking looks terrific!
  9. I love the companion way (well, everything really!). The model's stand is also outstanding. Great work, Don.
  10. I'm finishing up the masts. The plans call for boom rests on both the main mast as well as the fore mast. This is similar to what was found on "Hannah", "Chaleur" and "Gaspee". "Sultana" and "Halifax" had boom rests on the main mast only, the sails on the fore masts being loose-footed. As you can see from the pictures, Chaluer's fore mast boom rest was quite a way up the mast compared to Independence. The rest is only 3' 8" above the deck on Independence, while the main is 6' above the deck. By contrast, Hannah's fore mast boom rest is 5'6" above deck , according to Hahn's plan. So while it would be okay to have booms on both the main and the fore masts, the boom rest on the fore mast should be raised significantly higher. I'm leaning toward no boom rest on the foremast, with a loose-footed fore sail. What do you all think? Chaleur Hannah
  11. I'm restarting this build. Mike Shanks and I have been planning on doing a joint projet: POF "Hannah" in 1/24 scale...the whole ship. Not sure about rigging yet. I think the Triton cross section will be good practice for that build. I cut out and surfaced the blanks of hard maple I'll use for the frames. The maple is 3/8" thick, giving a final double frame thickness of 3/4". The footprint of the cross section at this scale is huge: 9-7/8" X 14-1/2"! The photo shows the plans for frame 2 compared to a midship's frame of "Fair American" at 1/48 scale. I'm also planning a building jig. The jig in the photo is one of the popular "2 level" jigs used for the cross section, but it takes into account that the plan view profile of the model is not a rectangle. The bulwarks curve slightly. The profile of the sides of the jig (marked by the arrows are clearly curved. Does anyone have a good way to lay out this curve accurately? There is no plan view of the framing in the plans.
  12. People whose automobiles are WAY MORE IMPORTANT THAN MINE, so they park diagonally, occupying 2 parking spaces to avoid dings. Jerks.