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DocBlake

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. I drew lines on the deck depicting the inboard location of the watercourse chocks. As you can see from photo #1, in the aft most position there is little deck surface for the chocks to grab when glued in place (see arrows). I decided to add a "toe board" of box wood to make assembly and gluing easier. Photo #2 shows the wing assembly under construction.
  2. Since the laser cut pattern is computer generated and controlled, I would expect that the cut pattern for the port side planking was designed to be the exact mirror image of the starboard. Since both sides of the blank are usable, you could then switch planks around between the sides to camouflage any grain pattern.
  3. The grain carrying over from one plank to another is a problem when precutting the planking (laser, CNC). When we designed our 17th Century Battle Station kits, we made sure to randomize the planking (especially the decking) to get a random look and avoid the grain continuing from one plank to the adjacent ones. Of course we were only producing 3 kits! Doing this in a commercial venture is probably not cost effective.
  4. The "wings" form the side walls to the powder room and the filling room. They are constructed by fabricating stanchions known as "watercourse chocks" which are then planked over. They arise from the deck at a 45 degree angle and angled 10 degrees from the centerline of the ship. These wings will be the toughest part of this build by far. They are topped with the perforating board, and from there the sidewalls go straight up. The first picture shows a plan view and longitudinal view of the chocks. The second photo is cross sections of the wing at a few levels. The last photo is some blanks, cut at 45 degrees and 10 degrees to form the compound angle. Next up it to build a jig so I can uniformly cut the top of the watercourse chocks correctly.
  5. You won't regret it! The only thing that could make the Byrnes saw better is Jim using his precision machining skills to create a tilting arbor for angle cuts. There is a tilt table available, but is fussy to use and time consuming to set up. I guess you can't have everything. Also, here's a link to the Byrnes saw user guide mentioned above: http://web.archive.org/web/20160401201451/http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php
  6. Very interesting! I'll be watching this one. I'm also awaiting Master Korabel's tender "Avos".
  7. DocBlake

    Song Title Game

    "Town Without Pity" - Gene Pitney
  8. DocBlake

    Song Title Game

    "Excitable Boy" - Warren Zevon
  9. DocBlake

    Song Title Game

    "Dogs of War" - Pink Floyd
  10. DocBlake

    Song Title Game

    "Let It Bleed" - The Rolling Stones
  11. Thanks for all the "likes" guys! After the planking was completed, I began to treenail. Much of the planking will be hidden or obscured, so only the most aft portion of the magazine (the light room) will get treenails. I used a #58 drill and toothpicks glued with CA. Next up is the most difficult and challenging part of the build: Laying out, constructing and planking the wings which will form the side walls of the powder room and filling room. This is going to take a while!

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