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    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. I finished the base. It is really a stylized section of decking to mount the gun on. There are black bolts in the deck beams sides that are not historically accurate - just there for visual interest. The carlings aren't visible but you can see the ends of the ledges. Once I attach the metalwork to the cannon, and mount the cannon on the deck piece I'm done!
  2. Half finished with the deck planking. Once completed, I'll lay out and drill the holes for the treenails.
  3. I opted to finish the cannon with satin wipe on poly. In deciding how to present the final model, I knew I wanted a little more than just a slab of wood, but I wasn't prepared to build a whole battle station section at 1/12 scale! I opted for a section of decking. I found a walnut cutoff in the shop and rounded the edges. I then glued 2 long parallel pieces of beech (1" X 5/8"0 to represent the deck beams. Then I added the two short cross pieces representing the carlings. The deck will be planked with 1/2" X 3/16" maple. Once the deck is planked, I'll add the ledges between the deck beams.
  4. Nice work, Jon! You're making good progress.
  5. So I used the lathe and fine sandpaper to smooth the canon. The final polishing is done with handfuls of wood shavings pressed against the turning barrel to use "wood to polish wood". The technique works really well. I then had to decide how to blacken my maple cannon. Three choices: Paint, stain or dye. In the end, I chose Solar-Lux Jet Black wood dye made by Behlen. It's alcohol based, dries quickly, penetrates into the wood fibers, doesn't raise the grain and won't obscure the detail on the reinforcing rings and the cascabel. It turned out well. Obviously I'll need to protect the dyed cannon. When we blacken brass cannons chemically, the resulting gun has a bit of a sheen to it. The cannons were cast, so would have been flat black in color. The "sheen" doesn't look bad in my opinion, though. So what do you think? Flat/matte poly, or semi-gloss/satin poly for a little sheen?
  6. Thanks for the likes, guys! I drilled the holes for the trunnion and bore. The trunnion hole was a little out of square so I had to use a rattail file to square up the hole and a glue a slightly larger diameter trunnion in place. I used wood filler to fill the irregularities in the trunnion hole. Dying is next
  7. I added some detail to the reinforcing rings. On to final sanding and drilling the bore and trunnion hole. I plan to stain the cannon rather than paint it to preserve the detail in the reinforcing rings and cascabel.
  8. Looking great, Ken! The bell was the only thing I used, also!
  9. I used hard maple to turn the barrel. Ebony would have cost $75! This is the rough cannon blanke. It needs additional work on the reinforcing rings, final sanding and drilling out the bore and the trunnion hole. The barrel is 7-1/2" long.
  10. I've been busy with a lot of things, but now we are in autumn and it's time to get back in the shipyard! Here are the cannons, with the cap squares applied and the breeching line attached. Don made the line with his ropewalk.
  11. Very nice, Ken! I believe the anchor bumpers/guards are called β€œbillboards”.
  12. I am really sorry to be missing this...but sometimes life gets in the way. I need to get my priorities straight! πŸ˜‰πŸ˜‰πŸ˜‰
  13. Lime wood, without question. Soaked in water you can literally tie it in a knot! Very flexible, easy to bend and forgiving. The others are far too hard and/or brittle to work as a first planing in the thickness needed. I have used boxwood, holly and Swiss pear as second planking in 1/32” thickness.

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