• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About EdT

  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Pennsylvania USA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,622 profile views
  1. Ciao Ed, questo fine settimana ho partecipato al campionato Italiano di modellismo navale con il modello del Naiad e nonostante sia ancora in costruzione e stato premiato con la medaglia d'oro e ha ottenuto il più alto punteggio del campionato grazie anche alla grande qualità dei tuoi disegni. Grazie mille Ed  un saluto Alberto

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. albert
    3. albert


      Ciao e ancora mille grazie  ED.

    4. EdT


      Congratulazioni Alberto! Un risultato meraviglioso. Sono contento e orgoglioso di aver contribuito dai disegni, ma il tuo lavoro è il vero risultato.


  2. Tony, I am sorry for the confusion over the plans. The drawings were all planned and numbered early on, before the books. The inclusion of Drawing 13 in Volume I has caused some confusion. The short answer is that there is no 2A. The 2B was meant to identify this plan as the Base, or shipway drawing. It does sound like Seawatch owes you a drawing 4, so I am sure Bob will send you one. Let me know if this does not happen. I have attached a list of the large printed drawings for your reference. I posted this in an Addendum on this forum topic some time ago. I suggest that you go back through this topic, download and print all the Addenda. While most of these deal with minor corrections and clarifications, there is also other useful supplementary information. There are 6 addenda for Volume I and 1 for Volume 2, all as printable pdfs. Naiad Frigate Drawing Lists[1].pdf Thank you for your interest in the books. I hope you will decide to proceed with the project. Ed
  3. Bil Crothers passed away in the spring of 2015. His last book was The Masting of American Merchant Sail in the 1850's, published in 2014. American Built Packets and Freighters was published in 2013. Ed
  4. Thank you both for these comments. Tony, sorry for not responding earlier to your December post. I hope, if you decide to buy the books, that you will find them useful, whether you decide to give Naiad a try or not. My goal has been to bring what some would call advanced model building, down to a practical level for less experienced builders or those who may be intimidated or who doubt their skills. I hope you find them so. Ed
  5. Thank you, Mark, for your response to the book and for interest in building the model. It has been a great experience for me - both the full-framed 1:72 model and the 1:96 hull. The subject is certainly a beautiful ship. If you decide to build one version or the other, please consider a build log on MSW. You will get a lot of help - and a lot of satisfaction from that. I know I do. As Allan says, The Naid Frigate, Volume I contains an appendix on toolmaking that includes drawings and text on making three types of clamps, the flexible wood screw calmps, a simpler version of these, and the planking clamps that I have used on both Naiad and YA. I have been pleased to see a number of modelers on MSW adopting these tools and other fixtures described in that first Naiad book. Also, in that appendix is a section on making and hardening small chisels that will be very helpful in small hardwood joinery. I will be most interested if you decide to proceed with YA - or make any of the tools. Than you, Allan and Happy New Year to you - and to everyone at MSW as well. Ed
  6. Al, You might find Part 52 of my 1:72 Young America build log useful. It describes an easy process for dropping planks that results in fair lines and the right number of dropped strakes. The process my be used on internal and external planking. Also see Part 27 of my build log on the 1:96 POB version of Young America for the same process being applied externally. I have found this method to be very effective at maintaining fair lines when planks are dropped. Good Luck, Ed
  7. Gary, On unsailed models there is always the question of where to secure rigging lines that are made fast to the sails - buntlines, slablines, leechlines, bowlines, downhaulers, etc. These lines are frequently omitted from models and references are few. I believe these lines would be stopped", ie tied off, at a convenient point where they would eventually be needed to bend the sail. Victory's jib would have been bent to hanks on the stay. So this work would be done on the bowsprit where the sail would be tied off to the hanks with robands. In the absence of sails, I would suggest stopping the downhauler to the halliard with both secured near the bottom end of the stay. When the jib was brought out for bending, these lines would be separated, the sail tied off to the hanks and the foot secured to the traveller(?), the downhauler would be threaded through a few thimbles on the head of the sail, then made fast with the halliard to the peak clue. The sail would be then hauled up by the halliard. The downhauler would then run out parallel to the head of the sail through the thimbles. To downhaul the jib, this line would be hauled in from the forecastle and the jib would come down Make sense? Ed.
  8. Thank you, John. I would be most interested in any results you obtain, but it could be a long time from now. There are procedures for accelerated testing of adhesives that can be found online. I saw some (but did not study them) while searching for "cyanoacrylate long term strength" - or something like that. Daniel, I know that many modelers use matte medium and therefore must get acceptable results. I can see this as a sealer on knots, but question its strength on simple glued splices because it is not really a glue. I make splices by threading the line through itself once, holing it flat and applying glue. There is no knot in this case so the strength relies entirely on the glue. From my testing, using acrylic matte medium as a glue produces weaker joints than PVA (polyvinyl acetate emulsion) that is designed to be a glue. Matte medium (poly methyl, ethyl and/or butyl acrylate emulsion) is a very different material, designed primarily as a coating. As with all coatings, it has, some adhesive properties, but is by no means a glue. There are excellent acrylic adhesives, used primarily in construction and manufacturing, but not generally used by modelers or sold in convenient form or amounts. Ed
  9. Thank you everyone for the comments and related experiences with CA. All of us who have used these materials are familiar with the more obvious negatives – hardened lines, stuck fingers, glossy joints, etc. – so further discussion of those issues may not be needed. We can either use or reject CA for any or all of those reasons if we choose – in favor of other available options – with their own disadvantages I may add. I am more concerned about the more insidious, long term issues that have occasionally been mentioned in connection with the use of CA on rigging specifically. Since I have used CA on rigging, I am glad to hear that so far, at least, no one has actually experienced a deterioration problem. I can add myself to that list. I used thin CA on most of the rigging joints on my 1:96 Victory. To date there has been no ill effects on a model that has spent the last six years in a sunny window – a possible issue described below. Longer term performance may still be a concern. I am naturally suspicious of conventional wisdom, so many of the statements about CA perked up my tentacles. So far, no one responding here has cited any data that would provide a technical basis for concerns about long term CA performance in rigging. My interest here is mostly curiosity. Although I have used CA in various applications, I do not expect to use it in rigging Young America. I expect to use PVA on splices – either darkened Titebond II® or acid free pva glue. In brief, applying a small blob of this to a wetted splice has resulted in strong bonds in tests. More could be said about this. I have tested other materials, including matte medium. While there are acrylic emulsions with excellent adhesive properties, artists media generally use coatings emulsions. In addition to soliciting comments here, I have contacted a number of CA manufacturers, describing the rigging application and the concerns. Here is a response from Satellite City, makers of the Hot Stuff® products that I use: "Hello Ed, Our glue has been used since 1970, first by model airplane builders and then by all sorts of other users. Cyanoacrylate is a permanent adhesive. The only thing I would be concerned about affecting the longevity of a bond is UV exposure. If your ship is stored where it is exposed to direct sunlight, the UV will break down the glue. In a test we did a few years ago, it took a couple of weeks of full sun all-day exposure to break down a thin layer of Hot Stuff that we had applied to a piece of wood in the way it would be used as a finish. At the end of the two weeks, the glue which had been clear originally had turned whitish and was flaking away. This level of exposure is not something I expect a model ship would be exposed to, and the glue itself was fully exposed to the sun as it was on the surface and facing the sun whereas if you use it to bond materials or secure knots, there will typically be minimal exposure. So unless you are using the glue as a finish on a model ship and displaying it in full sun continuously, you need not be concerned about the longevity of Hot Stuff. Cyanoacrylate is essentially and inert plastic when cured. I am not aware of any trace contaminants or leeching of acids. Cyanoacrylate does react with cotton and similar materials by curing very rapidly and giving off a great deal of heat and a little smoke while it does so, but I am sure you are already familiar with this if you have used it with those materials in the past. Attached are some pictures of our glue being used on some models you may recognize. I hope this information is helpful. Thank you for using our products, and have a great day. " I examined my sun-exposed model after receiving this and found no trace of the white flaking described. The CA absorbed into the thread seems unaffected as expected from the response. I will post other responses, if and when I receive them. Ed
  10. Hello everyone, I would like to gather information on the use of CA adhesive to secure splices in rigging lines. I recall seeing comments negative to the use of this product. For example, brittleness and expected failure of joints, joint deterioration over time, acids leaching from the material into rigging lines and leading to deterioration, etc. I do not know to what extent these issues are data based and would be most interested in seeing some actual data or some technical literature assessing long term performance. My online searches have turned up nothing negative on these issues. The use of these products in a wide variety of industrial applications has been going on for many years. There are advantages in the use of CA in rigging. For example, instantaneous bonding of a wide range of rigging materials - cotton, linen, polyester, very strong joints, ability to harden soft materials to make tiny eyes, etc. I have experienced no problems from using CA in rigging in an admittedly short model lifetime of around ten years. Comments? Ed
  11. Tony, The tables of contents in both Volume I and II are somewhat abbreviated. I have attached more detailed versions that I prepared before final publication. However, with very few exceptions, these reflect the content of the books, by sub-chapter headings. I hope these will be helpful. Thanks for your interest in the books. Ed Naiad Vol I Contents.pdf Naiad Vol II Contents.pdf
  12. Addendum 4 to Volume I Attached are Forecastle Pattern pdfs that correct the carrick bitt patterns and add dimensional information for these. The purpose of this modification is to clarify windlass axle bore sizes for both 1:72 and 1:96 scales and to help ensure that the windlass drive gears clear both the deck and the underside of the forecastle breast beam. Also attached is pdf for frame Xa, corrected to add toptimber bolt holes. 1to72 Forecastle Patterns.pdf 1to96 Forecastle Patterns.pdf Xa.pdf
  13. I am not familiar with lawn cloth, but linen cloth that was commonly used for drafting before synthetic film (I'm dating myself.) is quite fine and free of "slubs" - those little bumps in spun linen thread that effect our use for rigging line. Linen drafting cloth was coated with wax that can be removed by boiling leaving a fine cloth. Although I have not used it since my last model airplane (1950's) silkspan, a non-woven, fine material, is commonly used for sails. Ed
  14. Most of the comments here, I believe, refer to spindle speed. For a given spindle speed, cutting speed varies with the diameter of the tool, or on a lathe the diameter of the piece. Cutting speed increases with diameter for a given spindle speed. So, cutting speed, ideally, should be optimized for each individual setup based on the speed of the cutter at the cut. Small diameter wood turnings, for example, require very high spindle speeds. High spindle speeds on turnings not only produces a finer surface but also reduces torque on the piece at the cut, reducing breakage. I believe the standard Sherline mill is a bit slow for routing wood, thus leaving a rough surface. Although I do not have the high speed attachment, I believe it would be a good investment. Would routers and Dremel type tools have very high spindle speeds for this reason - much higher than machining tools like lathes and mills that are basically designed for metal where recommended cutting speeds are much lower. Ed .