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  1. An old, dormant pastime, Maury. Ed
  2. possible trip to Portsmouth

    It is a two minute walk from the Portsmouth Harbor station to the dockyard. Best way to go. Ed
  3. I have painted thousands of cast metal or epoxy molded military miniatures using acrylic artists' colors over many years, starting in 1970 when (I believe) the first acrylic designers gouache was introduced by Rowney. It was eventually discontinued, but returned later by other manufacturers. I have used the Jo Sonya product almost exclusively for many years. The finish is dead flat but may be given some gloss with acrylic medium, or other forms of artists acrylics may be used where some level of gloss is desired.. Gouache color range is extensive. Make sure it is acrylic. Some gouache resins are not waterproof. The product may be thinned as desired using water to provide washes or to build up color in multiple coats. I have found these materials to be superior to products made for modeling. I have used Vallejo, Humbrol acrylics, and other acrylic modeling paints but prefer the gouache for the pigment quality and variety of colors. As a primer, I use flat black (Rustoleum) enamel, highly thinned with a good quality solvent. The black helps highlight folds or crevices in the figure which would otherwise have to be filled with paint. The primer is brushed on and allowed to dry thoroughly. Colors are then built up from dark to light, which is facilitated by the waterproof acrylics. Finishes are durable and non-fading. Ed
  4. I believe that the spars you refer to are the studdingsail booms. The purpose of these was to support the clews, the lower ends, of the stuns'ls above and also to suspend the yard of the stuns'l below. These booms were housed just off the line of the yard by boom irons with circular straps somewhat larger than the maximum boom diameter. The inner boom irons could be opened to allow the inner end to be hauled upward to allow men on the yard to bend or reef sail. The stuns'l yards that were suspended from these were kept below, or sometimes in the tops, and mounted only when required with the sails pre-bent. In the retracted position the booms were usually lashed to one of the jackstay stanchions with some rope threaded through a hole in the inboard end. There was probably no one standard way to secure these, so tying them off in various ways would be acceptable. Bands on the boom irons were somewhat larger than the maximum diameter of the boom and sometimes fitted with a roller - usually on the outer iron that allowed the boom to slide out more easily. A temporary tackle was generally used to haul these out. Harold Underhill's Masting and Rigging of the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier is probably the best reference available on clipper ship rigging - out of print but can be found online. Ed
  5. N, Drawing 4 is the Centerline Structure Drawing which was furnished as a full sized printed drawing. It is not on the CD. You should have received this in the packet of printed drawings that came with the book. If you did not receive this drawing in the plans packet, you should contact SeaWatchBooks. Ed
  6. I believe that members should retain the right to delete their own content without recourse to site administration. The safeguards seem to be very adequate. I also support the right of site administration to delete content. Ed
  7. Carbibe blades are not needed for most model work, with the exception being thick hardwood stock. HSS Slitting saw blades are more economical, available in a range of blade thicknesses, and safer to use for small work. Ed
  8. The Book is out! Sea Watch Books and I are very proud to announce the publication of Modeling the extreme Clipper Young America 1853, Volume I. I think you will find that the book is unique in its description of a fully-framed extreme American clipper - as well as a smaller plank-on-bulkhead version. As with the Naiad books, the focus of this work is on modeling processes - covered in detail with many photos and drawings. Eight full sized drawings are included for the two versions as well as a CD containing patterns, detail sheets and other data. A second volume covering fitting out, masting and rigging is planned. My contribution to the book has included almost three years of research, drafting,modelbuilding, taking a few thousand photos and, of course, writing. I will let Bob Friedman comment on the effort required by Sea Watch and its various subcontrators. However, apart from this initial announcement, the purpose of this topic is to collect comments, questions, and opinions on the book. Bob Friedman and I will pay attention to these as the book rolls out and address questions or issues that may arise. I will use this topic to post any addenda to the work that may become necessary or even just useful. There are plenty of people to thank for help with an effort like this and I hope I have adequately expressed appreciation in the beginning of the book. The late Bill Crothers (1912-2015) tops my list and therefore deserves additional mention here. His exhaustive work on the structures of the American clipper ship were a primary resource for me and neither the model nor the book would exist but for his many years of effort and his excellent books. It was my honor and pleasure to meet with Bill with the framed version of the model in its earlier stages and to discuss various topics by phone on a number of occasions. I regret that he is not here to see the either the current model or the book. So, comments and questions are most welcome. Ed The book can be found at: http://www.seawatchbooks.com/NewsForthcomingBooks.htm

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