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About Anguirel

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  1. Manage to spend some quality time in the workshop. Planking the inside is done to the level of the lower deck. The guide lines for the treenails is marked, next is drilling the holes and do the treenails. In the meantime I planed to do something different for the deck beams. I did a two timber deck beam with a table and lipped scarph. The one on the right is glued and with the black paper. It came out better then I was expecting for a first try. Now the problem is that the plans are made to use a constant thickness beam which is not the case of this one. Any advice on how to compensate for this? In the case of the lower left and upper right beam arm it must be shorter then on the plans and the other two it must be bigger... I could not find an example of a two timber beam on a model (found several examples of a three timber beams though). As for this one the cuts for the beam arms and carling will "cut" the scarph of the beam. Any advice is welcome... Hugo
  2. Hi, i haven't been able to spent as much time on the cross section as I like but I manage to do a bit here and there. Sanding took a lot of time and was the only way I could find to give the hull the right shape. Here how she look now... in some places I didn't manage to get a good fit but still learning I guess... Hugo
  3. Hi, today reached a point of no return, the frames are in place... with the help of the jig and the spacers it was easier then I was expecting. Still had to redo some of the frames in order to align them properly (that is where I am now...) I played around with patterns of the treenails to fix the frames against the keel... The pattern on frame B seems better but from what I read it was only adopted after 1811 (Sappings System?, can anyone confirm this) and the one on frame C was the one in practice between 1710-1811. Next is the gunport lintels and sills then sanding, lots of sanding... Hugo
  4. Finally finished the frames... I have the jig to assemble them ready (I built something similar to ChadB's. one question: is there a proper place for the spacers? I will post some pictures tomorrow
  5. Hi kenny, congrats on finishing the cross section. The case looks great...
  6. Hi, I asked for a quote for boxwood with the thickness you sent but it was more then I was expecting and because it was my plan from the beginning to plank the all cross session and I want to buy a table saw and a lathe I rather save the money for the tools. So my plan now is to make the frames as they are in the plans and later when I have the tools I will make them "properly" and the decks only, with no planking.
  7. Hi all, There is a question that's been bugging me for months now. On the ship's frames were the futtocks buts weatherized? With pitch and/or tar? I know that after the frames where assembled the hull was left exposed to the elements (if done properly for years) so the wood would age and mature. But rain water is different from salt water... I could not find anything in the literature I have access to or the internet. A few weeks ago I had the privilege of visiting the HMS Victory in Portsmouth and on the Orloop deck there are some gaps on the inner hull plucking and the frames are visible. I could find one of the frame's buts and as far as I could see there was no pitch or tar. But the fact that there was direct access to the frames, especially in the Orloop deck makes me think that some kind of weatherization should be made. Can anyone confirm or deny if the frames were weatherized like the deck planks? thanks
  8. It's official, I'm halfway through assembling the frames
  9. Hi Jan, I had mixed experiences with basswood. For Christmas I made a wood truck for my son in basswood and the edges look pretty good: But the other day I bought basswood by mistake to use on the Triton's frames and this was the result: The wood look chewed mainly in the edges and tops, so I'm assuming different vendors/ brands have different quality. The wood for the truck was bought in Jo-Ann and the other in Hobby Lobby. Anybody with the same experience?
  10. Hi, Since I I don't have the appropriate tools and and I don't want to spend the money to buy the milled wood (because I'm saving to buy the a table saw and a lathe) I decided that for now I'm doing the frames as by the plans. Since I was planing to completely plank the cross section it won't make a difference. As soon as I have the tools I will make another with no planking to show the internal construction. So today I brought back the pieces I had already cut, and assembled the two half of frame 0 (having some difficulties adding images using the IPad)
  11. The position of the bolts was subject to space availability. My guess would be to put it after the gangway bracket. Will the stairs get in the way?
  12. Hi, After moving to the new house, unpacking everything and a surprise trip to London a was able to convince the Admiral to double my space Wile in London I managed to take one (very cold) day to go to the Royal Dockyards in Portsmouth. What a wonderful day... I just felt like a kid on Christmas Eve... Now I need to go back and think on how I want to proceed... Thanks
  13. Hi, You are right it is basswood, I bought it by mistake. For some reason the Hobby Lobbby closest to my house as balsa, bass and boxwood but I guess some are mixed up and so I bought the wrong one.
  14. Hi, Just an update on my (not) progress... I tried to do the futtocks with different thickness using boxwood from Hobby Lobby, bad idea... the wood is not dense (don't know if that is the correct word to use) enough, it couldn't hold the shape specially the edges. The edges looked like they were chewed. Now I'm in the process of changing houses so my work corner look like this In the mean time I contacted Crown Timberyard to see if they can mill the wood to the thickness I want. If they can't do it I will just have to accepted that I don't have the tool necessary to do it that way.
  15. Hi This was waiting for me when I arrived home yesterday, finally I will be able o keep things squared. As for the black paper on the frames, the double frames they are sturdy enough ( if the one I built can be used as an example) the simple ones might be a ploblem. I used the paper because I read somewhere that they used tar or pitch on the frame joints, but now I can't find it, will have to go through the books again...