James H

Mine was sanded, filled, cut back, filled, sanded about 3 or 4 times. I think it's a rare occasion when you get it first time. Yours is looking real good though.

They really do look great. Hope to see more iterations soon.

Oh, there's a roll of 6mm copper tape included for the coppering. IMHO, this stuff is very satisfying to apply, as well as quick and easy.

HMS Harpy - 1796 HMS Harpy was a Royal Navy Diligence-class brig-sloop, launched in 1796 and sold in 1817. She was the longest lived vessel of her class, and the most widely travelled. She served in both the battle of Copenhagen and the British invasion of Java, took part in several actions, one of which won for her crew a clasp to the Naval General Service Medal, and captured numerous privateers. The Navy sold her in 1817. (from Wikipedia) Prototype It seems like an age since there was something new on my bench for building. HMS Indefatigable's construction was slightly punctuated by Grecian, but as now I'm idle again and in need of doing something useful with my time, Chris sent over his latest, HMS Harpy, for me to build up and create the material for the manual! Chris shipped this out in a typical Grecian/Adder size box and there's quite some weight in this one, even without the plans and eventual manual. The box already seems packed out, and as usual, Chris's boss, Chan, has properly packed everything so nothing was broken. There are FOUR sheets of MDF in this kit (two x 2mm and two x 3mm), for creating the hull framing and the construction cradle. Again, the hull is designed so you can more or less build it dry, align and tweak as necessary, and then apply your glue to a now perfect hull. One sheet of 0.8mm ply is supplied for the main deck that sits under the engraved deck. Here you'll find the stern transom and counter, and the inner sandwich for the bulwarks. Here are the engraved lime decks.The main deck has optional parts to fit into the cutouts...should you feel the need to add them, and another engraved deck sits on the MDF sub deck, creating the ship's lower deck. The whole lower deck area will be festooned in engraved details too. This should look quite special. The upper deck beams are authentically placed and the lower ply support deck won't be seen at all on this build. Three 1mm pear sheets are included. These contain parts for the mast tops, keel/prow/rudder sheathings, and at the bottom you'll see all those engraved walls for the lower deck area. There's also a cabin or two included in that mix. Also note the engravings on this kit are enhanced too. Three sheets of 0.8mm pear contain the wales, anchor stock facings, outer bulwarks and various stern, bow pieces etc. Two more 0.8mm sheets contain the inner bulwarks, gunwales and parts for the mass, such as the fish etc. The upper sheet here is a 2mm one, containing the actual keel, prow and rudder post, rudder, carronade trucks, bitts, catheads, trestle tree parts and cutter mounting frames. The lower 0.6mm sheet concerns itself with numerous details for deck furnishings, stairways and parts for finishing the cutter. The cutter itself will be supplied as a beautiful and accurate 3D-printed part, so no more having to plank small boats for this one. You will have options for mounting the cutter....either use the deck mount parts, or hang over the stern on davits. Two 1.5mm sheets are included, containing anchor stock parts, as well as channels, cleats, cannon carts, grates, shot garlands, and various parts from bow to stern. A single 3mm sheet has parts for a small number of deck beams, gaff and boom ends, chimney and main hatch frames etc. Lastly, the 4mm sheet contains the main deck beams, coamings, mast caps. Lime planking is used for the first layer, as is normal, and pear will be used for the second layer. You also see dowel here for masting and a quantity of brass rod is also supplied. Three photo etch sheets will be supplied with this release. You'll recognise many parts here, from eyelets, decor, ship's wheel, strops, trestles etc. And here is the rig pack! I'm still firmly in rig mode from Indy, and the anaesthetic hasn't yet worn off! A box of fittings holds the anchors, blocks, ship's stove, laserbak rudder hinges, cannon and carronades/carronade wheels, parrel beads, thimbles, brass pins, cannon shot, and black cartridge paper. I'll make a start on Harpy tomorrow eve, but there'll be no sanding until Indy has gone. She's still sat on my bench and I don't want to get that dusty!

Those look great!

Only a Yorkshireman would say 'carping' 😆

Also, here is the reveal video:

Welcome to our little forum, @OcCre A pleasure to see you here.

@OcCre are MSW sponsors and have an account here. Expect to see some product/promotional info in the future.

Maybe we need to check the denier of their tights too.

1:48 Longboat CAFModel Catalogue # B-05-190 Available from CAFModel for $55.00 USD This kit is one which I think will be included with CAF's La Renommee kit at some stage. It is possible it's available as an extra, should you wish to either buy it as a separate project, or for completion of La Renommee. In the near future, I'll also be taking a look at the full kit of La Renommee herself. Until then, let's look at this separate, related project. This kit is packaged into one of CAF's smaller corrugated boxes, with the product label on the top box flap. The kit itself is 190mm long when complete, and features a full frame construction, as per the real vessel. Inside the box, the A4-sheet instructions are wrapped around the various parts packets. The parts sheets themselves are then sealed within a tough, clear plastic wrap which further protects the parts. I do know from experience that it's worth leaving your parts in the wrap for a few days before opening them. I once unwrapped a pack as soon as it arrived and over the next hours, the sheets warped slightly. I've learned my lesson so you don't have to. The overall quality of the parts is extremely good, with very little in the way of laser blowback on the reverse of the sheets. What there is will be easy to lightly sand away. Being a POF (plank on frame) kit, the model is constructed in a build jig. The parts below are those for building that jig. The parts are very self-explanatory, and you'll also see the numbered frame notches on the upper face. The frames consist of multiple parts that much be assembled. This sheet of cherry wood holds all of those parts. These will be assembled within an acrylic jig which we'll see shortly. All of the planks on this boat, are supplied as pre-cut/shaped parts, so if you take your time with this build, then all of these will fit without stealers or other remedial action needed. There is both external and internal hull planking on these sheets. Note that they are the same, just mirrored so they fit 'per side'. Most of the internal fitting out parts of this project are to be found here, such an inner strakes for planking up to, thwarts, decks etc. The part engraving is also very good and will look nice under varnish or oil. When the build starts, the keel and rear bulkhead are first assembled and then all is slotted into the jig. The keel is provided as upper and lower parts. Once you sit the completed frames into their respective slots in the lower keep (and within the slots on the jig upper face, the the upper keel is fitted, trapping the frames in situ. The long parts on 1F, are the wales. The longboat's gunwales are evident here. These are provided as two parts per side due to the step in the side profile of the longboat. Several lower transverse frame sections are also seen. Brass wire, tube and photo-etc are provided for detail parts. I'm pretty sure that the small length of dowel is used to align the mat steps, but I could be wrong. Several packets are also included. These are short lengths of brass rod, brass nails (now copper as stated on packs), 3D rudder tiller, and brass belaying pins. The frames have a very clever system of assembly. First, you sit the blank sheet on the bottom of the stack, then fit frame #A on top of this and add the parts to the shaped hollows. Corresponding frame #C then sits on top of this, all aligned by pegs at the frame corners, and the next layer of frame parts are glued into place. Acrylic sheet all around the frames means that the wood glue (NOT SUPERGLUE!!) will not adhere to it, and the completed frames can easily be removed from the jig and then cleaned up before assembly to the keel. Instructions These are very self-explanatory. When I come to build this boat, I'll likely create something similar to my VM build logs. CAF Assembly photos Conclusion A lovely little kit from CAF and I consider it to be excellent value for money. It all looks very buildable, but I'm in no doubt that you'll really need to take care and time when building. I don't think this will be too easy a project, so wouldn't recommend it to someone who is fairly new to the hobby, however I do think it looks a great little kit, and I'd love to see some build logs on MSW of this one. My sincere thanks to CAF Model for sending this kit over for review on MSW.

The last part of this build review... The starter motor is what will actually drive this kit. The electric motor is buried within a metal shell and then bolted to the side of the crankcase. The flywheel is then bolted into place. Now it's the turn of the generator. This doesn't actually do anything on the model except sit in its place and meshes into the gearing. I don't doubt there'll actually be a voltage generated at the two pins through. The water pump is now assembled and installed... ...as are two tensioners. This is one of the more crucial stages...setting up the timing and adding the timing chains. Each timing gear has etched marks on them that must be aligned in pairs. Once you've carefully positioned these, the chains need to be draped over them and also attached to a gear that fits to the crankshaft. After a short while persevering, these were in place and the chain tensioners added. The synchronous sprocket stops are now added below the timing gears. Various guides and tensioners are now built and bolted to the crankcase. Followed by the manifold to the top of the engine, and the various drive belts which are then carefully threaded around the wheels and tensioners. This part took a little effort. The engine must be treated as halves, and if you work on that premise, then the position of the belts makes perfect sense. This little control box is now built up and bolted to the engine. The battery box is finally added and everything connected together. The V8 engine is now complete! Here she is, followed by a video of her running. What a great project this has been. These engines are quite addictive when you start! My sincere thanks again to EngineDIY for giving me the opportunity to build this gorgeous kit.

Hi Ron, all parts are metal in these kits, except for the clear windows on the turbofan. Jim

Not too sure. Definitely looks racy in those anodised colours! Ok, on with the build. As I mentioned in the first post, I needed to use some oil as the kit didn't supply any. This is what I bought for all of these engine kits, and I apply it with a cotton bud. The first thing to build are the eight pistons. This is simply a case of inserting a pin through the piston head, trapping the piston rod. The pin is held in place with a circlip on either side. All of these are of course lubricated. We are already onto heavy metal with the use of this crankcase and crankshaft. With some lube, this sits into place within the crankcase and is held in place by a series of saddles that are bolted in situ. The piston chambers are now wiped with a little oil and the cylinders installed. These bolt to the crankshaft in pairs, with the kink in each of them offset so they don't foul each other when in operation. The crankshaft is now rotated to make sure everything is absolutely free. More gold anodised parts are now used, with the cylinder heads and the spark plugs. Two of these units are to be built. Next up are the valves. These consist of the valves which are lubes and inserted into the block from below. On the top, a sleeve is dropped into position, followed by a spring and lastly the valve head. All of these are checked that they are free to move. The cam seat is now bolted to the top of each of these units. And then the camshafts are seated in their correct orientation and then fitted with saddles and some lube. Timing gears are now fitted to these units. One of the units has extenders added to the camshafts so the chains can run at different levels so they won't foul each other. Exhaust pipes and manifolds are now added. In retrospect, I'd have added these later as they got in the way a little when I was moving the engine around. They frequently had to be realigned. The sump is bolted to the lower crankcase, and onto that are fitted the engine feet. Now, the cylinder heads can finally be mated to the crankcase. A real sense of the size and weight of this thing becomes clear. Lastly, for this update, the rear and front end covers. ...to be continued

Working that deck has been a labour of love, and it looks great! I see that one of the mast holes is partially obscured by a bulkhead. What's happening there?

V8 Engine Teching Catalogue # DM118 Available from EngineDIY for $699.99 (minus discount code) A V8 engine is an eight-cylinder piston engine in which two banks of four cylinders share a common crankshaft and are arranged in a V configuration. The first known V8 was the Antoinette, designed by Léon Levavasseur, and built in 1904 by the French Antoinette company for use in speedboat racing, cars, and later, airplanes. The first V8 engine used in a road-going car was the 1905 Rolls-Royce built in the United Kingdom. This model was initially equipped with a 3.5 L V8 engine. However, only three cars were made before Rolls-Royce reverted to using straight-six engines for their cars. Due to large external dimensions, V8 engines are typically used in cars that use a longitudinal engine layout and rear-wheel drive (or all-wheel drive). However, V8 engines have also occasionally been used in transverse engine front-wheel drive vehicles, sometimes using closer cylinder bore spacings and narrower cylinder bank angles to reduce their space requirements. The kit Like the Radial engine I looked at recently, this kit is supplied in a lovely metal tin some nice artwork designs on the lid and sides/bottom of the packaging. Under the lid, an instruction manual sits on a sheet of clear acetate that further protects the three trays of parts below. Again, the parts are sat in custom made cutouts that hold the parts nicely, and each cutout is engraved with the part numbers of the items therein. In these photos, you'll see a lot of very recognisable parts such as valves, manifolds, crankshaft, camshafts, piston heads, chains etc. All parts are exquisitely machined and finished in various anodised colours that are rugged and certainly didn't mark while I was assembling this model. Again, this model is devoid of lube, despite the text being on the fittings box, so you will need to buy something suitable. I used bike chain oil. The kit spec for this is: Material: Aluminum Alloy + Stainless Steel Coloring Process: Anodizing Number of Parts: 500+pcs Lithium Battery: 3.7V 500mAh Charging Voltage: DC 5V Charging Time: 2 hours Usage Time: 1 hour Assembling Difficulty: 5 stars Assembly Time: About 5 hours. Product Dimensions: 17.2 x 19.8 x 18cm Product Weight: 2550g Package Dimensions: 34.2 x 24.2 x 15cm Package Weight: 4500g Packing: High-end Metal Gift Box Two fittings boxes are included. All compartments generally hold a few more extra screws, washers, bolts, belts etc. as spares. Five more packs of larger bolts , valve heads, and saddles are included, as well as a small pact of assembly tools. I generally don't use these and instead opt to use my new Wera tools. Instruction manual A 50-page colour manual is included, containing some nice drawings of the various stages. There's no real shading in the illustrations, which made things clearer with the radial and turbofan engines I built, and this is apparent when the drive belts are fitted. For that process, I needed to look at the engine as halves and how the tensioners worked. A small niggle, but you'll see how I did this when you see the final photos. In the back of the manual, several pages are taken over to showing colour photos of each part, all numbered. Conclusion Such a beautifully made kit, and I can say that it assembles beautifully too. It's also quite heavy and sizeable when complete. You'll need a nice space to display it. I speak from experience. Parts quality is most definitely high end and as long as you follow the instructions regarding setting up the engine timing and tensioning, all will be good. Mine ran perfectly from the start. If you do have any issues, then the manual provides a troubleshooting guide to help you. My assessment: A wonderful kit! My sincere thanks to EngineDIY for sending out this kit for review on Model Ship World. To buy direct, click the link in the header of this topic. The next couple of posts will show this model being built and tested. This was a process that took about 6 hours over the weekend, including my photography. To be continued...

She's coming along real nice. Not long to go now.

Onto the final leg of building the turbofan. The intermediate casing is now used and fitted with the parts I've just built, as well as inserting a secondary drive shaft through the casting, to the outside, where a gear is installed. The sealing plate is now attached, as well as the brackets which will hold the tie rods. After fitting its bearing unit, the casing is connected to the forward low pressure casing unit. ....followed by the high pressure stator case. The next in line to be fitted to the engine is the combustion chamber. The high pressure turbine is now interred. The anterior vertebrae is now fitted to the back end of the combustion chamber, followed by the cone and the tail nozzle. This grand looking engine now needs to be fitted to the test cradle so that it's easier to work on. The electric motor drive unit is now fitted to the low pressure fan casing and some model grade used for lubing the gears. The ties and some other external engine details are now fitted to the engine. And she is now complete! I really have to say that this has been a blast to build and despite the high price of the unit, you are left with an extremely heavy and beautiful replica of a turbofan that you can power up and see working. This has taken me a week of evenings to build, and part of a weekend, only broken up by waiting on some replacement parts which came very quickly from China. Would I recommend it? Absolutely! If your budget can stretch to this behemoth, then she will look great on your office desk or cabinet. Here she is, working...

I can now look at assembling some of this heavy metal, as well as looking at how it'll be powered and displayed. A substantial electric motor is hidden in plain view on this model, in the ancillary equipment which sits on the outside of the low pressure housing. Here you see the motor being fitted into that. You'll see the gearing too. I do pack this out with some model grease which isn't shown in the photos as it's fairly gunky. One thing that doesn't need to be assembled is the control unit. This is a self-contained unit which has a shiny button on the left for engine sound, and a toggle on the right for simple engine on/off. In the middle is the working throttle. This is connected to the unit I just built to test that all is working. I left this for a minute or two to properly bed in. The engine test cradle is now put together and the control unit bolted into position. The engine needs to be built up before it can be mounted. The forward low pressure rings are now bolted together with a mix of both locking nuts and regular nuts with thread-lock applied. Enter the large low pressure fan I built at the beginning. This is now slid into position and a high pressure rotor bolted into place from the rear. More rotors now slid into position. The electric motor needs to have a gearing system in place which turns the rotation through 90 degrees towards the main fan shaft. This little unit is now built and greased and then inserted into the intermediate green casing which will be seen in the next and last update. ...to be continued.

It's never a problem to reply to an older post. I hope you share your build with us Jim

This is mine, from Amazon. What I like about this one is it's quite tall at its upper end and can also sink low enough for a regular desk. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BFLRH7WJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Assembling the high pressure compressor The previous two assemblies cab now be fitted together. Whilst one of these rotates within the other, there's no need to add any lubrication as the centre assembly will rotate on the main drive shaft and is clear of the outside casing. Combustion chamber The first assembly also has a cutaway window so the modeller can see the interior parts while the engine is running. A few small external details are now added to the completed chamber, namely the fuel branch pipes and distribution ring. High pressure turbine rotor You'll start to see a pattern of seemingly similar items being built. The assembly of these is very, very similar, even if the completed units are physically different. Low pressure turbine case As before, this has another viewing window and there are more stator blade elements that sit within. These are held in place by a black ring which sits atop them and is secured by four screws from the outside of the casing. The various stator parts can now be fitted in conjunction with the rotary units Now a large section of the case is fitted onto this unit, trapping the rotors and stators within. All of these circular assemblies are first secured with a small number of bolts and locking nuts. When everything is guaranteed to be central, the remainder of the bolts are fitted with regular nuts. Again, all are thread-locked. This unit is now fitted out with cooling pipes and their connection units. Extra clips are fitted over these which hold the pipes into the correct position to each other. The pipes are also numbered so you get them in the correct sequence, starting with the largest diameter ones. As with much of this engine, this assembly is quite heavy. ....to be continued.

Work begins! Fan and main shaft We are immediately thrown into the main event on this kit, namely the engine's driveshaft and the intake fan (first low pressure rotor). The driveshaft is first bolted to the fan drum. Whilst you see a lock washer here, I have used thread-lock throughout this build to protect bolts from rotating parts, coming adrift, and also static bolts which could be affected by vibration. Oil bearings are lightly oiled and modelling grease compound has been added where appropriate. All of the fan blades are perfectly created so they are balanced. You'd have a real problem if the main fan was unbalanced. All of these blades are slotted into the drum. There is a little 'play' in these, as there is in the numerous other fans. This is perfectly normal. The blades are now fixed in situ with these fastenings which sit between the blades and are screwed from the rear of the fan drum. There is still a little unevenness in the position of the last parts, but this is entirely removed when the fan spinner is screwed into place. Note the spiral which is a safety feature of the real thing. This is already a heavy and substantial subassembly. I put this to one side while I worked on the rest, making sure I didn't rest it on its fan blades. Second Low Pressure Rotor We all know thatches engines have various high and low pressure rotors/compression, and this assembly is the rotor which will sit to the rear of the main fan. The parts to build this are seen here, with the separate blades. The two turntable parts are first bolted together and then the blades slotted between them in the correct orientation. Finally, a stopper is fitted to complete the turntable and prevent the blades from escaping. Second stage low pressure rotor This assembly is built in exactly the same way as the one above. The only difference being the blade angles and the turntable drum shapes. First low pressure stator Whereas the previous assemblies were moving items, this one is static and will sit between the others. This consists of a static low voltage connector ring in which a set of stator blades are slotted into an internal recess in the ring. These seem a little loose until the securing ring is tightened up onto the blades and they form a complete circle which droops from the ring. EngineDIY sent me a set of replacement parts for these as the original ones and their customer service was super fast. No complaints whatsoever. High Pressure Lower stator Case We now turn attention to a part of the engine's outer case. This will sit just to the rear of the main fan casing and consists of two nicely machined halves into which clear viewing windows are inserted. Inside these sit two more rows of static stators, seen here in black. These are simply pushed into place and will move about, so it's a case of making sure they stay still until the halves are eventually bolted together. High Pressure Rotor Inside that housing sits a high pressure rotor assembly. This is essentially a set of drums and rotors which are bolted together into a single unit. These are all slotted onto three rods which are then secured at each end of the drum. ....to be continued.

1:10 Turbofan Engine Teching Catalogue #33ED3479934 Available from EngineDIY for $999.99USD (minus discount) A turbofan or fanjet is a type of air-breathing jet engine that is widely used in aircraft propulsion. The word "turbofan" is a combination of the preceding generation engine technology of the turbojet, and a reference to the additional fan stage added. It consists of a gas turbine engine which achieves mechanical energy from combustion, and a ducted fan that uses the mechanical energy from the gas turbine to force air rearwards. Thus, whereas all the air taken in by a turbojet passes through the combustion chamber and turbines, in a turbofan some of that air bypasses these components. A turbofan thus can be thought of as a turbojet being used to drive a ducted fan, with both of these contributing to the thrust. Animation of a 2-spool, high-bypass turbofan A. Low-pressure spool B. High-pressure spool C. Stationary components 1. Nacelle 2. Fan 3. Low-pressure compressor 4. High-pressure compressor 5. Combustion chamber 6. High-pressure turbine 7. Low-pressure turbine 8. Core nozzle 9. Fan nozzle The turbofan was invented to improve the fuel consumption of the turbojet. It achieves this by pushing more air, thus increasing the mass and lowering the speed of the propelling jet compared to that of the turbojet. This is done mechanically by adding a ducted fan rather than using viscous forces by adding an ejector, as first envisaged by Whittle. (Information abridged from Wikipedia) The kit This is a large and heavy kit. It's also very expensive and I make no secret of this. The box with contents, weighs in at about 5kg, and the completed model at around 4kg. In all, there's over 1000 parts, including the various fittings of course. That product box is extremely sturdy and takes a real effort to get that lid from the base. You can get an idea of the size of this kit with my magnifying visor sat on top. The engine seems to be based on the CFM International LEAP turbofan engine, as fitted to the Boeing 737 MAX and Airbus A320 Neo. The finished model also features a test stand and a throttle unit with full engine sound. Here are a few more specs, supplied by Teching. Material: Aluminum alloy + Stainless Steel Model: Dual Rotor Turbofan Engine Scale: 1/10 Model Length: 380mm Fan Diameter: 165mm Number of Parts: 1000+PCS (Components: 400+PCS, Screws & Nuts: 600+PCS) Drive System: Motor-driven Battery: 3.7V 800mAh Lithium Battery Power Charging Cable: DC 5V USB Cable Charging Time: 3 hours Battery Life: 1 hour (at Full Charge) Assembly Time: Approx. 10 hours Underneath that heavy lid are several trays of parts, all numbered so you know exactly where to find the parts you need. A number of parts are fairly similar, so it's important you use the correct ones as you go. On top of the parts trays is a clear acetate sheet to make sure nothing comes loose, and lastly, the colour instruction manual is provided. Here you can see just how those parts are supplied. Many smaller parts, such as stator blades etc. are packed into clear wallets and then sat within their numbered recesses. One point to note here is that there is a little fine, slightly powdery debris on many parts, from that foam. I found that blowing the parts with an aerosol cleaner helped first...especially as the construction is precision. Tray 1 Tray 2 Tray 3 Tray 4 Tray 5 I've now laid out the trays so you can see the parts a little clearer. the main parts have either an anodised, dipped, or painted finish. All of the finishes are robust and not easily marked. All of the black parts you see are also metal. The only plastic parts I believe I encountered are the clear viewing windows for the various cutaway sections. As you can see, many of the cutout have more than one part, but all are so carefully packed that nothing whatsoever is marked or damaged. Instructions This comes in the forum of a full colour, glossy 124 page publication, which details every single stage in wonderful clarity, with sometimes more than one single image to show a particular stage. The manual is published in both English and Chinese text, and not only includes the instructions, but also a little about the engine, some safety notes, and also a full colour parts key at the end of the manual. I didn't find a need for the latter, but it's there if you feel you need to reference it. Tools The model is also supplied with a set of tools. I did have problems with the 1.5mm hex driver as the head sheared off. That's no problem for me anyway as I wanted to use my own Wera tools. Some small spanners are also supplied. Fittings Two plastic compartment boxes are included. As well as the screws, bolts, nuts etc, the boxes also contain bearings and other parts specific to this particular kit. All in metal. Conclusion You really have to like assembling mechanical models to get the most from this kit. There are LOTS of nuts and bolts to tackle and you'll need a reasonable bench area to store the various subassemblies as the build commences. The model is all metal in construction (apart from the clear viewing panels) and is something that really should not be rushed, and why would you want to if you are paying a premium for such a project. Tools are supplied with the kit, although my 1.5mm hex driver head did shear off and I continued with my Wera hex head set for most things. This is very much a precision kit and the excellent instructions need to be followed at each step. There are more than enough images for you to get orientation correct, and the text is very easy to follow, with no ambiguity. The only thing I would suggest is that you get a little model grease for the various gears, and a little lube oil for the bearings. The kit does have a space in the accessories box for that lube, but it's not included in the UK shippings, for reasons I don't know. If you've ever wanted to buy a model engine of a turbofan, then it gets no better than this one. So what do I think of the kit in terms of build-ability? Well, we'll look at this over the next posts I make, culminating in a full build and video test startup. My sincere thanks to Lucas at EngineDIY for the opportunity to build this remarkable kit on Model Ship World. To buy directly, click the link at the top of this article. To get a nice fat discount on this kit, use the voucher code JAMESHATCH at checkout. ...TO BE CONTINUED.

Moved to correct forum area.