Chasseur

Thanks, Bob.  I needed to hear that.  Sometimes I can be blind to my own work so outside input is always appreciated, good and bad. 
 
I am considering removing the planking toward the bow.  The other planks look so good, they make the rest look blah.  I'll have time to consider that because the house is nagging me again.  But it was sure fun playing hooky. 

For whatever it is worth, here are two suggestions for making a scroll saw a bit better to control.
I bought a used Ryobi scroll saw and added a 1/8 inch thick plywood plate on top of the table. It is held on with double back tape but has a small slot for the blade clearance. It is not exactly 'zero clearance' but darn close.
Obviously the foot was removed for this picture.
 
Then I made a couple guide blocks out of oak. The picture below shows the idea. 
I have found that this gives me very good control when cutting curved pieces and practically no tear out on the back side.

I might add that when the oak block wears out (or I have to use a narrower blade) I loosen the screw that holds the block to the foot, and resurface the face. Thus far I have not had to replace the block since it only 'guides' and no heavy rubbing takes place, unless I go into tight bends.

Hello Mike, Les here. Here is my two farthings worth. I have a Paasche VL double action airbrush I have used for years. I know it is a tank, and there are much better units but it is what I am comfortable with. The selection now can be overwhelming. My advise is to purchase a mid price range brush. It will do most of what higher end units will do at less cost. When proficient go for the gold. Any airbrush can lay down a great flat coat. Think armor or aircraft. Gloss paints are the bain of any painter. I know, I spray kitchen cabinets for a living. As to a good compressor. I used a Devilbiss unit for years. Sturdy but would wake the dead when it kicked in. A flooring installer friend of mine suggested I purchase a Makita model AC001 compressor. Super quiet and less than the compressors you see in art stores dedicated for air brushing. So far so good.

Awesome!

Awesome!

Life has a way of getting in between work and hobbies.  The last year and most of this year to date has been trying for our family as we watched my Father in Law go from an old folk’s home to a cane, to a walker, to a nursing home and wheel chair. He has been diagnosed with Parkinson's and is basically bed ridden.
 
 
The aforementioned has been a huge stressor on all of us… especially my wife. BTW the Mother in Law has Alzheimer's disease. A man can count his blessings each day as he wakes and enjoys life with good health. Zero work has been done with regard to the Preussen as we have had to deal with hospitals, doctors, nurses, healthcare workers et al.
 
Between works, writing an article for Lone Warrior and working with my son on his 1973 Chevy SS Nova I do manage to get some hobby done here and there. I thought I would share this tool below  I built for making ratlines.
 

 
Inspiration for this tool came from The Bottle Shipwright 1989 No. 1 Vol. 7, Page 12 ... Journal of the Ships in Bottles Association of America (SIBAA). Author: Hans de Haan Holland.
 
This tool was made to complete HMS Lady Prevost and USS Ariel (1:300 scale.) models for the L.W. article. I plan to eventually use the tool for making the ratlines for the Preussen as well and will use Ralph Preston's technique of installation with a minor tweak of my own to eliminate 150 strings coming out of the hull and bottle neck ... Story line in the future.
 
As with every tool I make the unwritten rule is the materials have to be had from within the man cave. I quickly hunted down some brass square tubing, a spring, screws etc. to fabricate this tool. Parameters were... it had to be adjustable for different mast heights, differing scales of model ships, and it had to fit into my fly tying vice for easy work access.
 
As with any soldering the trick with small parts is holding them down while you tin and solder the joints. My butane mini torch and pencil tip soldering iron came in handy while my adjustable second hand held everything square to the earth.
 

 

 
I chose a small spring to maintain spacing and tension to keep the lines taunt. This picture below shows my first feeble attempt while trying to glue things on a flat surface.  If you look closely you can see that the glue gets bunged up and things got stuck to the first balsa wood jig I made which a nightmare was trying to remove the ratlines once completed.
 

 

 
Above: Note the miniature Deadeyes made from paper to scale. Technique here is print them side by side, cut out and fold, then glue to thread.
 
Next pictures show the new tool I fabricated and the steps to completion and paint.
 

 

 

 

 
Above: You can see how the spring holds adequate tension and spacing and the bottom part is made to depict breadth and spacing of lines. I can even tweak the angle coming off the mast as well. From here all I have to do is cut small threads and glue them on as I climb up the lines. So there you have it a handy little tool to make a pair of ratlines for each individual mast. Hopefully this fall after the son’s car is running and the article is complete for L.W. I'll dive in full force to get some more work done on the Nitrate Clipper. I am chomping at the bit to get at her!
 

 

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

Last time when I have seen that kind of yaht was in Kotor, Montenegro ... I felt as I am a fly standing on shore beside ...
 

 
Another world, another life

I hear ya, Nenad, I hear ya!  Unfortunately, there's seldom much logic in this world; especially when it comes to those who have loads of money.  Like the saying goes..."Aah, but are they happy"?
 
Who knows?  
 
Anyhow, I think we're happier for not having to pay the insurance on a 200 foot boat      .  
 
Have a great week and enjoy it.
 
Cheers
 
patrick

I also want to win Lotto! Even I do not play Lotto
 

 
Whole my life I asked myself, how much one must have, to have those toy, to pay all expences of using it couple of weeks at year? What kind of bussines allow you that kind of life? If you have big bussines, you do not have enough time. And where is the point if you can not use this beauty min 6 months at year. Believe me, I am not envy, just do not understand ... same thing: Have a car paid 70-100.000 $ and scratch it on parking?
 
Just another galaxy. Or I am an Alien

Hello Patrick,
Always a pleasure to pull up a chair and watch a miniaturist in motion. I do like your technique and building method regarding the hull. I think us ship in bottle builders can learn a few tricks from you here.
 
Hull colour? ... Anything that you fancy it's your build!
 
Jeff

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

Life has a way of getting in between work and hobbies.  The last year and most of this year to date has been trying for our family as we watched my Father in Law go from an old folk’s home to a cane, to a walker, to a nursing home and wheel chair. He has been diagnosed with Parkinson's and is basically bed ridden.
 
 
The aforementioned has been a huge stressor on all of us… especially my wife. BTW the Mother in Law has Alzheimer's disease. A man can count his blessings each day as he wakes and enjoys life with good health. Zero work has been done with regard to the Preussen as we have had to deal with hospitals, doctors, nurses, healthcare workers et al.
 
Between works, writing an article for Lone Warrior and working with my son on his 1973 Chevy SS Nova I do manage to get some hobby done here and there. I thought I would share this tool below  I built for making ratlines.
 

 
Inspiration for this tool came from The Bottle Shipwright 1989 No. 1 Vol. 7, Page 12 ... Journal of the Ships in Bottles Association of America (SIBAA). Author: Hans de Haan Holland.
 
This tool was made to complete HMS Lady Prevost and USS Ariel (1:300 scale.) models for the L.W. article. I plan to eventually use the tool for making the ratlines for the Preussen as well and will use Ralph Preston's technique of installation with a minor tweak of my own to eliminate 150 strings coming out of the hull and bottle neck ... Story line in the future.
 
As with every tool I make the unwritten rule is the materials have to be had from within the man cave. I quickly hunted down some brass square tubing, a spring, screws etc. to fabricate this tool. Parameters were... it had to be adjustable for different mast heights, differing scales of model ships, and it had to fit into my fly tying vice for easy work access.
 
As with any soldering the trick with small parts is holding them down while you tin and solder the joints. My butane mini torch and pencil tip soldering iron came in handy while my adjustable second hand held everything square to the earth.
 

 

 
I chose a small spring to maintain spacing and tension to keep the lines taunt. This picture below shows my first feeble attempt while trying to glue things on a flat surface.  If you look closely you can see that the glue gets bunged up and things got stuck to the first balsa wood jig I made which a nightmare was trying to remove the ratlines once completed.
 

 

 
Above: Note the miniature Deadeyes made from paper to scale. Technique here is print them side by side, cut out and fold, then glue to thread.
 
Next pictures show the new tool I fabricated and the steps to completion and paint.
 

 

 

 

 
Above: You can see how the spring holds adequate tension and spacing and the bottom part is made to depict breadth and spacing of lines. I can even tweak the angle coming off the mast as well. From here all I have to do is cut small threads and glue them on as I climb up the lines. So there you have it a handy little tool to make a pair of ratlines for each individual mast. Hopefully this fall after the son’s car is running and the article is complete for L.W. I'll dive in full force to get some more work done on the Nitrate Clipper. I am chomping at the bit to get at her!
 

 

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

Life has a way of getting in between work and hobbies.  The last year and most of this year to date has been trying for our family as we watched my Father in Law go from an old folk’s home to a cane, to a walker, to a nursing home and wheel chair. He has been diagnosed with Parkinson's and is basically bed ridden.
 
 
The aforementioned has been a huge stressor on all of us… especially my wife. BTW the Mother in Law has Alzheimer's disease. A man can count his blessings each day as he wakes and enjoys life with good health. Zero work has been done with regard to the Preussen as we have had to deal with hospitals, doctors, nurses, healthcare workers et al.
 
Between works, writing an article for Lone Warrior and working with my son on his 1973 Chevy SS Nova I do manage to get some hobby done here and there. I thought I would share this tool below  I built for making ratlines.
 

 
Inspiration for this tool came from The Bottle Shipwright 1989 No. 1 Vol. 7, Page 12 ... Journal of the Ships in Bottles Association of America (SIBAA). Author: Hans de Haan Holland.
 
This tool was made to complete HMS Lady Prevost and USS Ariel (1:300 scale.) models for the L.W. article. I plan to eventually use the tool for making the ratlines for the Preussen as well and will use Ralph Preston's technique of installation with a minor tweak of my own to eliminate 150 strings coming out of the hull and bottle neck ... Story line in the future.
 
As with every tool I make the unwritten rule is the materials have to be had from within the man cave. I quickly hunted down some brass square tubing, a spring, screws etc. to fabricate this tool. Parameters were... it had to be adjustable for different mast heights, differing scales of model ships, and it had to fit into my fly tying vice for easy work access.
 
As with any soldering the trick with small parts is holding them down while you tin and solder the joints. My butane mini torch and pencil tip soldering iron came in handy while my adjustable second hand held everything square to the earth.
 

 

 
I chose a small spring to maintain spacing and tension to keep the lines taunt. This picture below shows my first feeble attempt while trying to glue things on a flat surface.  If you look closely you can see that the glue gets bunged up and things got stuck to the first balsa wood jig I made which a nightmare was trying to remove the ratlines once completed.
 

 

 
Above: Note the miniature Deadeyes made from paper to scale. Technique here is print them side by side, cut out and fold, then glue to thread.
 
Next pictures show the new tool I fabricated and the steps to completion and paint.
 

 

 

 

 
Above: You can see how the spring holds adequate tension and spacing and the bottom part is made to depict breadth and spacing of lines. I can even tweak the angle coming off the mast as well. From here all I have to do is cut small threads and glue them on as I climb up the lines. So there you have it a handy little tool to make a pair of ratlines for each individual mast. Hopefully this fall after the son’s car is running and the article is complete for L.W. I'll dive in full force to get some more work done on the Nitrate Clipper. I am chomping at the bit to get at her!
 

 

HI everyone.  
 
Many thanks for all of your comments and compliments.  It means heaps to me!
 
You know, one of the many mistakes I made with Majellan (see my Build Log below) is that I never had a clear idea of how her various decks fitted together, which was a big no-no, because it meant that making sure that access ways and staircases, etc all were correctly aligned vertically and horizontally, was problematic.  
 
In contrast, I'm going to avoid that mistake with Shadow by being more careful right from the start. For instance, I've cut out all the deck plans in cardboard as templates to ensure that everything is aligned properly.  Smart thinking I say (well...that's the theory anyway).
 
As you can see from the photos below, each deck is labelled to indicate where the various decks are.  These templates will be essential when marking and aligning the bulkheads and other major structural elements, thereby making sure that everything fits together properly.
 
All the best!
 
Patrick 
 

Hi Jeff

Many thanks for your compliments! I must say, that that's what I find most inspiring about MSW , ie the fact that we can all learn from each other. After all, where else can you find such a great learning environment?

I hope you're able to continue on with following Shadow's journey.

Cheers

Patrick

 

Awesome!

Hello Patrick,
Always a pleasure to pull up a chair and watch a miniaturist in motion. I do like your technique and building method regarding the hull. I think us ship in bottle builders can learn a few tricks from you here.
 
Hull colour? ... Anything that you fancy it's your build!
 
Jeff

Hello Patrick,
Always a pleasure to pull up a chair and watch a miniaturist in motion. I do like your technique and building method regarding the hull. I think us ship in bottle builders can learn a few tricks from you here.
 
Hull colour? ... Anything that you fancy it's your build!
 
Jeff