lamarvalley
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lamarvalley got a reaction from catopower in Homemade Rudder Hinges
Well, I started this thread so I might as well tell of the final product.
The cause of all this was the thin and generic hinge straps that came with the kit. I bent them so many times trying to follow the pin or the rudder that they snapped like metals do when bent back and forth over and over. I appreciate the advise Von Stetina, and it will remain in my arsenal of tricks but fortunately this time I bent them once and only once. It was nice working with a bit stouter brass... it could take a bit of work.
I ended up buying .5mm sheet brass along with brass tube and rod. After a bit of trial and error I cut the sheet to appropriate size, filed each strip down to uniform widths and bent them to an initial U shape over a piece of wood the same thickness as the rudder. Again, a few stutter starts and finally got the soldering down. There were 6 hinges, each had tube with 3 of them getting a rod to act as a pin. Pulled out the files and sandpaper and eventually with a blackening I had hinges.
The rest is detailed in the pictures...
Randy
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lamarvalley got a reaction from riverboat in Homemade Rudder Hinges
No sandbagging Tom, I swear. I am a novice... at model boat building. I know my way around a woodshop tho. The soldering...it wasn't smooth sailing at first... I didn't take a picture of the 4 or 5 that didn't survive... It was a learning experience.
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lamarvalley got a reaction from riverboat in Homemade Rudder Hinges
Well, I started this thread so I might as well tell of the final product.
The cause of all this was the thin and generic hinge straps that came with the kit. I bent them so many times trying to follow the pin or the rudder that they snapped like metals do when bent back and forth over and over. I appreciate the advise Von Stetina, and it will remain in my arsenal of tricks but fortunately this time I bent them once and only once. It was nice working with a bit stouter brass... it could take a bit of work.
I ended up buying .5mm sheet brass along with brass tube and rod. After a bit of trial and error I cut the sheet to appropriate size, filed each strip down to uniform widths and bent them to an initial U shape over a piece of wood the same thickness as the rudder. Again, a few stutter starts and finally got the soldering down. There were 6 hinges, each had tube with 3 of them getting a rod to act as a pin. Pulled out the files and sandpaper and eventually with a blackening I had hinges.
The rest is detailed in the pictures...
Randy
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lamarvalley got a reaction from SGraham in Homemade Rudder Hinges
Well, I started this thread so I might as well tell of the final product.
The cause of all this was the thin and generic hinge straps that came with the kit. I bent them so many times trying to follow the pin or the rudder that they snapped like metals do when bent back and forth over and over. I appreciate the advise Von Stetina, and it will remain in my arsenal of tricks but fortunately this time I bent them once and only once. It was nice working with a bit stouter brass... it could take a bit of work.
I ended up buying .5mm sheet brass along with brass tube and rod. After a bit of trial and error I cut the sheet to appropriate size, filed each strip down to uniform widths and bent them to an initial U shape over a piece of wood the same thickness as the rudder. Again, a few stutter starts and finally got the soldering down. There were 6 hinges, each had tube with 3 of them getting a rod to act as a pin. Pulled out the files and sandpaper and eventually with a blackening I had hinges.
The rest is detailed in the pictures...
Randy
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lamarvalley got a reaction from mij in Homemade Rudder Hinges
Well, I started this thread so I might as well tell of the final product.
The cause of all this was the thin and generic hinge straps that came with the kit. I bent them so many times trying to follow the pin or the rudder that they snapped like metals do when bent back and forth over and over. I appreciate the advise Von Stetina, and it will remain in my arsenal of tricks but fortunately this time I bent them once and only once. It was nice working with a bit stouter brass... it could take a bit of work.
I ended up buying .5mm sheet brass along with brass tube and rod. After a bit of trial and error I cut the sheet to appropriate size, filed each strip down to uniform widths and bent them to an initial U shape over a piece of wood the same thickness as the rudder. Again, a few stutter starts and finally got the soldering down. There were 6 hinges, each had tube with 3 of them getting a rod to act as a pin. Pulled out the files and sandpaper and eventually with a blackening I had hinges.
The rest is detailed in the pictures...
Randy
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lamarvalley got a reaction from pete48 in Homemade Rudder Hinges
Well, I started this thread so I might as well tell of the final product.
The cause of all this was the thin and generic hinge straps that came with the kit. I bent them so many times trying to follow the pin or the rudder that they snapped like metals do when bent back and forth over and over. I appreciate the advise Von Stetina, and it will remain in my arsenal of tricks but fortunately this time I bent them once and only once. It was nice working with a bit stouter brass... it could take a bit of work.
I ended up buying .5mm sheet brass along with brass tube and rod. After a bit of trial and error I cut the sheet to appropriate size, filed each strip down to uniform widths and bent them to an initial U shape over a piece of wood the same thickness as the rudder. Again, a few stutter starts and finally got the soldering down. There were 6 hinges, each had tube with 3 of them getting a rod to act as a pin. Pulled out the files and sandpaper and eventually with a blackening I had hinges.
The rest is detailed in the pictures...
Randy
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lamarvalley got a reaction from tasmanian in Glue Recommendations
Good day Scott and welcome back to the hobby.
There will be variations on the opinions but I use wood glue 95% of the time... titebond II and their new transparent that dries clear. This allows for a slow set time usually with the need to clamp the parts in some fashion. Serves my needs quite well.
I use thin CA for immediate attachment and for me is my least favorite because it can run due to it's super low viscosity. When I use it almost every time I end up with some on me somewhere.
Thicker CA's set a bit slower and allow a few more moments for adjustment or placement and I prefer that feature.
They all have their place and sit back and wait for it, I'm just the first to respond... my guess is this will be a popular thread... you came to the right place to get educated.
Randy
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lamarvalley got a reaction from DBorgens in Homemade Rudder Hinges
Well, I started this thread so I might as well tell of the final product.
The cause of all this was the thin and generic hinge straps that came with the kit. I bent them so many times trying to follow the pin or the rudder that they snapped like metals do when bent back and forth over and over. I appreciate the advise Von Stetina, and it will remain in my arsenal of tricks but fortunately this time I bent them once and only once. It was nice working with a bit stouter brass... it could take a bit of work.
I ended up buying .5mm sheet brass along with brass tube and rod. After a bit of trial and error I cut the sheet to appropriate size, filed each strip down to uniform widths and bent them to an initial U shape over a piece of wood the same thickness as the rudder. Again, a few stutter starts and finally got the soldering down. There were 6 hinges, each had tube with 3 of them getting a rod to act as a pin. Pulled out the files and sandpaper and eventually with a blackening I had hinges.
The rest is detailed in the pictures...
Randy
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lamarvalley got a reaction from tasmanian in Homemade Rudder Hinges
Well, I started this thread so I might as well tell of the final product.
The cause of all this was the thin and generic hinge straps that came with the kit. I bent them so many times trying to follow the pin or the rudder that they snapped like metals do when bent back and forth over and over. I appreciate the advise Von Stetina, and it will remain in my arsenal of tricks but fortunately this time I bent them once and only once. It was nice working with a bit stouter brass... it could take a bit of work.
I ended up buying .5mm sheet brass along with brass tube and rod. After a bit of trial and error I cut the sheet to appropriate size, filed each strip down to uniform widths and bent them to an initial U shape over a piece of wood the same thickness as the rudder. Again, a few stutter starts and finally got the soldering down. There were 6 hinges, each had tube with 3 of them getting a rod to act as a pin. Pulled out the files and sandpaper and eventually with a blackening I had hinges.
The rest is detailed in the pictures...
Randy
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lamarvalley got a reaction from GTM in Santisima Trinidad by GTM - OcCre - 1:90 - Kit Bashed
Yeah, very impressive! Not only do they look great but they function too! Theo sets a very high bar.
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lamarvalley got a reaction from DesertWolf in San Francisco 2 by DesertWolf - Artesania Latina
Good to see you're back Wolf! Your SF is so pristine and crisp and to me the nicest version of all of us… I forgot how nice she is in the absence. Love the stern windows and the door.
Looking forward to seeing what's next.
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lamarvalley got a reaction from harvey1847 in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
I must say these models are far removed from the models of my youth. I made dozens and dozens of plastic models as a boy but none were this detailed or interesting. I can't say I'll go plastic versus wood but this forum does made me reconsider. Hmmm...
Nice work Kevin, it'll be fun watching this model develop.
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lamarvalley got a reaction from Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
I must say these models are far removed from the models of my youth. I made dozens and dozens of plastic models as a boy but none were this detailed or interesting. I can't say I'll go plastic versus wood but this forum does made me reconsider. Hmmm...
Nice work Kevin, it'll be fun watching this model develop.
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lamarvalley got a reaction from egkb in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
I must say these models are far removed from the models of my youth. I made dozens and dozens of plastic models as a boy but none were this detailed or interesting. I can't say I'll go plastic versus wood but this forum does made me reconsider. Hmmm...
Nice work Kevin, it'll be fun watching this model develop.
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lamarvalley got a reaction from augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
You say you don't have much patience but I think your work shows that you do Very nice and crisp Augie!
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lamarvalley reacted to Blackie in Harvey by Blackie - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:50 - Baltimore Clipper
I started this AL kit Harvey some 12 years after 2 other kit builds - Mercury and Panart Saint Lucia, a tartan. The build progressed very slowly and I abandoned it about 8 years ago due to work and other interests. Finally in mid last year I was able to get back to it and I finished the hull planking just before Christmas. However, about then I began a lot of research into Baltimore clippers and I realised that the Harvey kit is "not true to form". My version of the kit materials-wise does seem to be quite good compared to those that I have read about so perhaps the kit has deteriorated over the past decade. Anyway, I now see that the deck layout could not be as shown in the kit and I have decided to scratch build my deck fittings to a new layout and I have almost completed a scratch build of the jolly boat for the stern davits.
The deck fittings are made but not attached and I am also building new cannon carriages about half the size of the kit parts - this is the correct size as far as I can determine using the same brass cannon in the kit which seem to be 4 pounders. I must admit that I have been a bit distracted by other things and doing some research on the rigging but hope to get going again now on the build.
I welcome any comments.
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lamarvalley got a reaction from augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
I'm liking it…
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lamarvalley reacted to SkerryAmp in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Very nice!! That looks like some impressive planking going on there I do say!
That long before an update? Okay, okay..nobody panic... we can take it...... okay everyone...just like we planned - we can make it through.
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lamarvalley reacted to SkerryAmp in Mayflower by SkerryAmp - Model Shipways - 5/32" = 1'
I did also decide to do a little prep work for when the bulwarks are done. I decided to get the wales ready for their debut. I have some boxwood and pear laying around so I decided I am going to use those to do the wales and the moulding. I want a nice clean edge and have become somewhat addicted to using those woods.
For the wales I decided to stain them using ebony stain. Will give a nice black I think and a nice touch to the model (I hope)
So first I picked out some clean boxwood strips.....
Pulled out the trusty ole Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (I absolutely love this stuff)
Treated the boxwood accordingly....
The previously mentioned Ebony Stain also by Minwax (I have pretty good luck with their products)
And - WALLA! Black Wales
I have no set those aside to dry overnight and will see what I can about those tomorrow...
The question now is, what do I do now...hmmmmmm.
Well, thanks for stopping in!
Enjoy!!
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lamarvalley reacted to mtaylor in Licorne by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - POF - TERMINATED LOG
No pressure on this site, is there?
I'm going to bow to pressure, even though it's against my better judgement. I guess don't want Sjors to hit me up for piccy's.
Here she sits with various implements of destruction lying about... The black square is where the broken frame was. Still have a lot of sanding and some re-working of joints before I cut gunports and lay in the ebony wales.
The black X's, in case you're wondering, are for the frames I can remove after the chain wale goes on. A top rail fits in there. I'm thinking about removing those early just in case she decides to implode/explode/self-destruct when I start removing the build board down the road.
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lamarvalley got a reaction from SkerryAmp in Blue Shadow by SkerryAmp - Mamoli - 1:64 - Fictional Revolutionary War Brigantine - Recommissioned as the Kara June
I don't know how I missed this build log but until today I did. Great read and good info... except for the funeral parts of course. Sorry to hear of so many losses... my condolences to you and your wife Here's to improved karma for the future
Now, i hate to say it and sound like... well.... someone else... but where are the most recent planking pics. Enquiring minds and all that...
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lamarvalley got a reaction from Sjors in Le Mirage by Sjors - FINISHED - Corel - Wood - 1:75
That looks fantastic Sjors…
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lamarvalley reacted to Mirabell61 in LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
Beautifull work Karl,
its like looking into a 18th century real ship after being Fitted out at the shipyard
Nils
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lamarvalley reacted to Jeronimo in LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
Hi friends,
construction and installation of the pumps.
Karl
T e i l 3 8
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lamarvalley got a reaction from Sjors in Blue Shadow by SkerryAmp - Mamoli - 1:64 - Fictional Revolutionary War Brigantine - Recommissioned as the Kara June
I don't know how I missed this build log but until today I did. Great read and good info... except for the funeral parts of course. Sorry to hear of so many losses... my condolences to you and your wife Here's to improved karma for the future
Now, i hate to say it and sound like... well.... someone else... but where are the most recent planking pics. Enquiring minds and all that...
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