usedtosail

I bent two pear strips for the taffrail since one layer was not thick enough to be even with the ends of the side rails. I glued the mast crutches to the transom sides and then notched the end of the taffrail pieces to fit around them. I was able to clamp these while they dried using clamps that fit into the ports in the transom. Later I glued the three rail trim pieces onto the transom and touched up the black paint on these pieces.
 

 
I then glued the pintles into the holes in the stern post to attach the rudder. I glued the tiller onto the rudder from inside the deck.
 

 
With the transom finished I can now focus on the head rails. I painted the head rail pieces with yellow oxide paint , which I am using instead of yellow ochre. I then added a strip of black down the insides of the PE pieces. I used a very small brush and cleaned up the excess black paint on the raised parts using a damp Q-tip. In order to be able to push the soft PE strips through the slots in the stem, I filed a point of sorts into the end of a thicker piece of brass strip and used it to clean out the slots first. The starboard hawse piece was in the way of the back slot a bit, so I moved it slightly and glued it back on.
 

 
You can see that I have the model in a Keel Clamper stand, which helps me tilt the model for these steps, but I am going to put it back into the wooden stand as soon as I can. I am worried that a good push to either side will separate the glued on keel from the rest of the hull. I do have it clamped on the dead wood in the back but the front clamp is on the keel.

I bent two pear strips for the taffrail since one layer was not thick enough to be even with the ends of the side rails. I glued the mast crutches to the transom sides and then notched the end of the taffrail pieces to fit around them. I was able to clamp these while they dried using clamps that fit into the ports in the transom. Later I glued the three rail trim pieces onto the transom and touched up the black paint on these pieces.
 

 
I then glued the pintles into the holes in the stern post to attach the rudder. I glued the tiller onto the rudder from inside the deck.
 

 
With the transom finished I can now focus on the head rails. I painted the head rail pieces with yellow oxide paint , which I am using instead of yellow ochre. I then added a strip of black down the insides of the PE pieces. I used a very small brush and cleaned up the excess black paint on the raised parts using a damp Q-tip. In order to be able to push the soft PE strips through the slots in the stem, I filed a point of sorts into the end of a thicker piece of brass strip and used it to clean out the slots first. The starboard hawse piece was in the way of the back slot a bit, so I moved it slightly and glued it back on.
 

 
You can see that I have the model in a Keel Clamper stand, which helps me tilt the model for these steps, but I am going to put it back into the wooden stand as soon as I can. I am worried that a good push to either side will separate the glued on keel from the rest of the hull. I do have it clamped on the dead wood in the back but the front clamp is on the keel.

I bent two pear strips for the taffrail since one layer was not thick enough to be even with the ends of the side rails. I glued the mast crutches to the transom sides and then notched the end of the taffrail pieces to fit around them. I was able to clamp these while they dried using clamps that fit into the ports in the transom. Later I glued the three rail trim pieces onto the transom and touched up the black paint on these pieces.
 

 
I then glued the pintles into the holes in the stern post to attach the rudder. I glued the tiller onto the rudder from inside the deck.
 

 
With the transom finished I can now focus on the head rails. I painted the head rail pieces with yellow oxide paint , which I am using instead of yellow ochre. I then added a strip of black down the insides of the PE pieces. I used a very small brush and cleaned up the excess black paint on the raised parts using a damp Q-tip. In order to be able to push the soft PE strips through the slots in the stem, I filed a point of sorts into the end of a thicker piece of brass strip and used it to clean out the slots first. The starboard hawse piece was in the way of the back slot a bit, so I moved it slightly and glued it back on.
 

 
You can see that I have the model in a Keel Clamper stand, which helps me tilt the model for these steps, but I am going to put it back into the wooden stand as soon as I can. I am worried that a good push to either side will separate the glued on keel from the rest of the hull. I do have it clamped on the dead wood in the back but the front clamp is on the keel.

I finally was happy with the ends of the wale pieces and the fashion pieces, so I added the little trim pieces to the swivel gun supports. Instead of using the supplied laser cut pieces I painted a then strip of wood yellow ochre and cut each one out from it. You can see what's left at the bottom of the photo. I did it this way because I know I wouldn't have been able to keep each of the laser cut pieces organized and painted.
 

 
Next I will be adding the swivel gun bases to the rails and drilling the holes for the brackets. I have also started to make the taffrail.

I finally was happy with the ends of the wale pieces and the fashion pieces, so I added the little trim pieces to the swivel gun supports. Instead of using the supplied laser cut pieces I painted a then strip of wood yellow ochre and cut each one out from it. You can see what's left at the bottom of the photo. I did it this way because I know I wouldn't have been able to keep each of the laser cut pieces organized and painted.
 

 
Next I will be adding the swivel gun bases to the rails and drilling the holes for the brackets. I have also started to make the taffrail.

I finally was happy with the ends of the wale pieces and the fashion pieces, so I added the little trim pieces to the swivel gun supports. Instead of using the supplied laser cut pieces I painted a then strip of wood yellow ochre and cut each one out from it. You can see what's left at the bottom of the photo. I did it this way because I know I wouldn't have been able to keep each of the laser cut pieces organized and painted.
 

 
Next I will be adding the swivel gun bases to the rails and drilling the holes for the brackets. I have also started to make the taffrail.

Thanks Theodosius. I hadn't thought about the channels yet. I think for most of the length of the hull the wale was in the right place, based on the guide marks supplied on the bulwark extensions. It was probably the last couple of inches that were too low.
 
Here is the corrected wale planks and fashion pieces. I need at least another coat of black paint on them and a little clean up on the hull planks.
 

 
I cut the three sails (spanker, main and fore topG) from the frame. For these sails I separated them but did not cut them at the edges when removing them from the frame.
 

 
I found it was easier to cut the excess sail material from the sails while they were off the frame. Cutting around the loops was still a bit tricky. Here are the sails ready to use.
 

 
I have put the sail making equipment away until I have the masts and spars made, as I need more accurate dimensions for the courses and topsails. I have approximated these dimensions from the plans but since it takes many weeks to make each sail I want to make sure I don't have to remake any.

Thanks Håkan.   I can only guess that when they were assembling that page of the book, the true scale illustration just looked too small on the page, so they enlarged it and didn't change the caption.  Who knows?!  Hopefully I will remember to always double check the illustrations.
 
I finished the trestletrees, and test fit the pieces, checking to make sure they would also fit on the topmast--

 
Then I made a rudimentary jig to hold the trestle pieces, for gluing the crosstrees.  I rarely make these kind of jigs, because I am too impatient and lazy, but it was a good idea to do this, and it only took a few minutes--


 
I ended up making deeper notches in the trestletrees, and none in the crosstrees, though you can see I had marked some, and even started to cut a couple notches in one of the crosstrees, before deciding it would be wiser to just notch the trestletrees even though not historically accurate.  I test fit the crosstrees many time, adjusting the notches in the trestle trees for depth, and to make sure the crosstrees were parallel to each other, and perpendicular to the trestletrees.  I then glued the crosstrees in--

 
The photo makes that first set of notches look very bad.  It's not so noticeable in person, but I'll fill the gaps and all will be stained black when done--

 
There is more work to do now on the topmast: filing a tenon on the end, for the cap, and angling the top of the octagonal haunch so the trestletrees sit parallel to the water line--
 

 
Now it's on to the topgallant masts.
 
Ron  
 
 

Oops, sorry Chris. I got so excited from the pictures I forgot what I had read.🤪

That is a very interesting looking ship. Different and nasty looking. Will the kit come with masting and rigging? Thanks for the great new designs and kits.

Yes, Håkan, more practice!!
 
I had cut out the trestle trees, and glued the crosstrees down to a piece of paper, to "hold' them while I filed the tapered undersides.   But a nagging feeling that they were too big wouldn't go away.  After holding the topmast close to them, I was pretty sure of it.   I looked at some photos of other models and then got out Lee's "Masting and Rigging", and calculated the length of the crosstrees according to that source.   Sure enough, it appeared that I had made them about 50% too long.   While I love Petrejus' book, this is the second time I've gotten burned using his illustrations without checking the scale accuracy.   Although the caption for the crosstree illustration read "full size" (meaning full scale size), it was actually quite a bit larger.
 
Here are the new crosstrees, roughly shaped, compared to the previous ones--

 
I glued them down and tapered the undersides--

 
I cut out new trestle trees, and here they are along with the crosstrees, and a wrong sized trestle tree and crosstree--

 
The crosstrees need some more work, generally narrowing the depth and breadth a bit, and cutting notches for the trestle trees.  The trestle trees need deeper notches, and some further shaping, then I'll try assembling them and see how they look on the topmasts.
 
Ron  
 
 

Thanks Theodosius. I hadn't thought about the channels yet. I think for most of the length of the hull the wale was in the right place, based on the guide marks supplied on the bulwark extensions. It was probably the last couple of inches that were too low.
 
Here is the corrected wale planks and fashion pieces. I need at least another coat of black paint on them and a little clean up on the hull planks.
 

 
I cut the three sails (spanker, main and fore topG) from the frame. For these sails I separated them but did not cut them at the edges when removing them from the frame.
 

 
I found it was easier to cut the excess sail material from the sails while they were off the frame. Cutting around the loops was still a bit tricky. Here are the sails ready to use.
 

 
I have put the sail making equipment away until I have the masts and spars made, as I need more accurate dimensions for the courses and topsails. I have approximated these dimensions from the plans but since it takes many weeks to make each sail I want to make sure I don't have to remake any.

Thanks Theodosius. I hadn't thought about the channels yet. I think for most of the length of the hull the wale was in the right place, based on the guide marks supplied on the bulwark extensions. It was probably the last couple of inches that were too low.
 
Here is the corrected wale planks and fashion pieces. I need at least another coat of black paint on them and a little clean up on the hull planks.
 

 
I cut the three sails (spanker, main and fore topG) from the frame. For these sails I separated them but did not cut them at the edges when removing them from the frame.
 

 
I found it was easier to cut the excess sail material from the sails while they were off the frame. Cutting around the loops was still a bit tricky. Here are the sails ready to use.
 

 
I have put the sail making equipment away until I have the masts and spars made, as I need more accurate dimensions for the courses and topsails. I have approximated these dimensions from the plans but since it takes many weeks to make each sail I want to make sure I don't have to remake any.

I was looking through the Speedy build log by @Theodosius yesterday, which is a really nice build of this model, and saw that when I added the wale planks I let them get too high at the transom. As shown in the plans, the lower edge of the wale should be even with the bottom of the lower transom piece. I knew something was wrong because of the way the fashion pieces looked. So I did some surgery this morning. I carefully pried the wale planks up from the hull, cleaned the glue off the hull planks, cut the wale planks back to clean up the ends, and touched up the wipe on poly on the hull.
 

 
I used the holes in the laser cut sheet to trace new fashion pieces onto a piece of pear wood and cut out the new ones with an X-Acto knife. I plan to cut the plank extensions to exactly fit the fashion pieces, or at least fit better than the previous ones did.

Oops, sorry Chris. I got so excited from the pictures I forgot what I had read.🤪

That is a very interesting looking ship. Different and nasty looking. Will the kit come with masting and rigging? Thanks for the great new designs and kits.

Thanks Theodosius. I hadn't thought about the channels yet. I think for most of the length of the hull the wale was in the right place, based on the guide marks supplied on the bulwark extensions. It was probably the last couple of inches that were too low.
 
Here is the corrected wale planks and fashion pieces. I need at least another coat of black paint on them and a little clean up on the hull planks.
 

 
I cut the three sails (spanker, main and fore topG) from the frame. For these sails I separated them but did not cut them at the edges when removing them from the frame.
 

 
I found it was easier to cut the excess sail material from the sails while they were off the frame. Cutting around the loops was still a bit tricky. Here are the sails ready to use.
 

 
I have put the sail making equipment away until I have the masts and spars made, as I need more accurate dimensions for the courses and topsails. I have approximated these dimensions from the plans but since it takes many weeks to make each sail I want to make sure I don't have to remake any.

Thanks Theodosius. I hadn't thought about the channels yet. I think for most of the length of the hull the wale was in the right place, based on the guide marks supplied on the bulwark extensions. It was probably the last couple of inches that were too low.
 
Here is the corrected wale planks and fashion pieces. I need at least another coat of black paint on them and a little clean up on the hull planks.
 

 
I cut the three sails (spanker, main and fore topG) from the frame. For these sails I separated them but did not cut them at the edges when removing them from the frame.
 

 
I found it was easier to cut the excess sail material from the sails while they were off the frame. Cutting around the loops was still a bit tricky. Here are the sails ready to use.
 

 
I have put the sail making equipment away until I have the masts and spars made, as I need more accurate dimensions for the courses and topsails. I have approximated these dimensions from the plans but since it takes many weeks to make each sail I want to make sure I don't have to remake any.

That is a very interesting looking ship. Different and nasty looking. Will the kit come with masting and rigging? Thanks for the great new designs and kits.

That is a very interesting looking ship. Different and nasty looking. Will the kit come with masting and rigging? Thanks for the great new designs and kits.

Oops, sorry Chris. I got so excited from the pictures I forgot what I had read.🤪

That is a very interesting looking ship. Different and nasty looking. Will the kit come with masting and rigging? Thanks for the great new designs and kits.

That is a very interesting looking ship. Different and nasty looking. Will the kit come with masting and rigging? Thanks for the great new designs and kits.

Oops, sorry Chris. I got so excited from the pictures I forgot what I had read.🤪

That is a very interesting looking ship. Different and nasty looking. Will the kit come with masting and rigging? Thanks for the great new designs and kits.