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usedtosail got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I am making progress on three fronts. I trimmed the aft ends of the wale planks then added the fashion pieces to finish them off.
On the three sails I have been working on, I finished adding the bolt ropes with all the loops and added small pieces of line across the loops. I added the reef points to the spanker after pushing holes through paint for the grommets. I am in the process of using matte medium to fix the knots of the reef points and hold them down to the sail so they fall correctly. Here is a picture of the balsa inset I made to hold the pins better when adding the bolt ropes and loops to the sails.
And I have also started making a new cradle for the finished model. I used the plastic cradle ends pieces and traced the shapes onto 1/8" mahogany sheet, then cut them out with a jig saw and sanded them with a sanding drum in the drill press. I milled the slots into them for the cross pieces and have squared them off with a square file since this picture was taken.
Next up for the hull is to add the trim pieces that contain the swivel gun supports. I also need to trim the reef points and cut the individual sails out and make the cross pieces for the new cradle.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Canute in drilling hole through wire
Dave,
I also had a torch like that which was hard to light and never stayed lit if I did start. I then found this pencil torch which works a lot better. You have to use a lighter to light it but it only has one switch that you don't have to hold down.
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usedtosail got a reaction from mtaylor in drilling hole through wire
Dave,
I also had a torch like that which was hard to light and never stayed lit if I did start. I then found this pencil torch which works a lot better. You have to use a lighter to light it but it only has one switch that you don't have to hold down.
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usedtosail reacted to giampieroricci in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
the quarter badge:
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usedtosail reacted to giampieroricci in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
For now I have finished with the stern decorations:
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usedtosail reacted to Der Alte Rentner in USS Constitution by ERS Rich - Model Shipways - 5/32
Unrelated to the previous conversation:
Just a word of thanks Rich. I was starting the planking of the wale yesterday and stopped to do some research. I posted a question in my own build log on the subject, but then did a search on "Constitution wale" and among the results was your build. I spent the morning poring over it, making notes, "borrowing" photos, and comparing to the Practicum. Your photos provided much more detail than those provided in the Hunt Practicum and have solidified in my mind the process going forward. I copied some portions of your planking discussion and printed it to have on hand at my shop.
Thanks for posting such exhaustive detail. (and for chiming in with opinions and answers when I've inquired)
Saint Nicholas Day has come and gone, So
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you!
Best
Peter
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usedtosail reacted to rlb in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship
Thanks JJ and Dowmer. The wood is Swiss Pear.
Filing the tricky tapered octagon at the top of the topmasts-
All that's left at this point is making the hole for a sheave near the base--
And, pretty much done on the two topmasts--
Next will be the mast caps, and then I'll be able to set the masts, tops, and topmasts up (temporarily) on the model!
Ron
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usedtosail got a reaction from rcweir in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
Yep those pictures surfaced during the last Constitution refit, I think, which was after I copper plated my Connie. I should have made dents instead of bumps but I didn't and I am not changing it now on this model. Enough said.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Theodosius in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I painted the cheeks and added the painted hawse hole pieces. I used a series of small to large drill bits to drill the hawse holes through the bulwarks.
I was having trouble getting the pins to stay in place while creating the loops in the bolt rope on the sails. I had some 1/4" balsa wood sheets laying around so I used them to make a new inset for the sail frame. I cut two 6" wide pieces for the top layer, which fills the whole frame, and some smaller strips for the bottom layer that holds the top pieces together and raises it 1/4" so the top layer is 1/4" from the sail, which is high enough that the sail doesn't touch it. I glued them all together and placed it in the frame (forgetting to take a picture of it). The pins stick into the balsa wood easily and stay upright even when the bolt rope is tensioned. This addition will make adding the bolt ropes much easier.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Theodosius in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
And finished up the starboard side this morning.
Next up is building and attaching the rudder.
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usedtosail reacted to kmart in USS Constitution by kmart - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
Starting to work on Guns for gundeck. So need to make 30 of them .
I am going to use the ME cannon set. Not the dummy barrels that cam with the kit.
Fairly common issue is the cannon carriage is to short. Without modification the barrel it will sit too low in the gun port.
My solution was to replace the dowel axels with a taller pieces of basswood to raise the overall height.
The wheels will just glue right on to these pieces flush with the deck.
The wheels themselves will hide most of the piece. So they wont be as obvious.
In some of my past builds, I've had canons break loose.
The tiny wheels/trucks just don't have enough surface area connecting the deck to stay stuck.
I tiny bump and they break loose. Typically this after deck is closed up and I can no longer access to fix.
With these pieces, there will be a lot more surface area on the bottom piece's to glue to the deck.
Mass producing the carriages
Testing them on the ship
For the wheels themselves, still want to show the nub of the axis.
Trying to clean, enlarge the hole to fit the axes will split the wheel.
Soo ill try using toothpicks. Glue the wheel on
Saw off the pointy end flush with wheel. That's the side that will be glue to the new piece of wood/axil.
On the center side of the toothpick, I'll cut short length after the wheel to simulate the end of a axil
Once the carriages are done. 30x4 = 120 wheels to make. Geesh.
Then I'll start looking at rigging. At a minimal I'll rig the breech's on all of them.
I'll do more excessive rigging on the 8 cannons that can be seen though the open grating on the spar deck.
As I'm aiming for an 1812 version of the ship, I'm leaving waist hatches off.
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usedtosail got a reaction from DB789 in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I painted the cheeks and added the painted hawse hole pieces. I used a series of small to large drill bits to drill the hawse holes through the bulwarks.
I was having trouble getting the pins to stay in place while creating the loops in the bolt rope on the sails. I had some 1/4" balsa wood sheets laying around so I used them to make a new inset for the sail frame. I cut two 6" wide pieces for the top layer, which fills the whole frame, and some smaller strips for the bottom layer that holds the top pieces together and raises it 1/4" so the top layer is 1/4" from the sail, which is high enough that the sail doesn't touch it. I glued them all together and placed it in the frame (forgetting to take a picture of it). The pins stick into the balsa wood easily and stay upright even when the bolt rope is tensioned. This addition will make adding the bolt ropes much easier.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Cathead in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I a had some thin silk span which I didn't like. For these sails I am actually using something called tea bag paper, which is the same or similar to silk span I read. Here is the link to the paper I bought from Amazon:
https://a.co/d/jfCkwMM
I know this is controversial and I thought about leaving the copper foil smooth, but I wanted some texture on them. When I built the Constitution model many years ago there was a discussion on this forum about how the copper plates look on the real ship, and that's where the idea of the raised "bumps" came from. In fact I used the same jig I did for the Constitution build. I could have used the ponce wheel on the front of the foil to get indents instead of bumps if I wanted to but I didn't. I may smooth down the bumps a bit with a burnishing stick but maybe not.
Some sad news on the sail making. 🥲 This morning while tightening the bolt rope, I managed to drop my tweezers onto the middle of the spanker and put a hole in it. I am going to continue making the sail, maybe just for practice, but I also may try patching it after it is cut out. I am also going to keep the sail templates over the sails as I work on them so if I drop something again maybe it won't go through the template as easily as the tea bag paper.
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usedtosail got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I painted the cheeks and added the painted hawse hole pieces. I used a series of small to large drill bits to drill the hawse holes through the bulwarks.
I was having trouble getting the pins to stay in place while creating the loops in the bolt rope on the sails. I had some 1/4" balsa wood sheets laying around so I used them to make a new inset for the sail frame. I cut two 6" wide pieces for the top layer, which fills the whole frame, and some smaller strips for the bottom layer that holds the top pieces together and raises it 1/4" so the top layer is 1/4" from the sail, which is high enough that the sail doesn't touch it. I glued them all together and placed it in the frame (forgetting to take a picture of it). The pins stick into the balsa wood easily and stay upright even when the bolt rope is tensioned. This addition will make adding the bolt ropes much easier.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Mr Whippy in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I finished up the rudder and tiller and added the pintles and gudgeons. These will be added to the hull later.
I added the cheek pieces to the bow. These will be painted black next along with the hawse hole pieces and the top rails.
I am working on the spanker and both topG sails, which I can make from the same piece of stretched silk span. I am currently adding the bolt ropes. I also transferred the hand drawn plans to the computer so I can have an electronic version of the sail plans and if I have to change the dimensions slightly, which I expect to have to do for the topsails and courses, it will make that task a lot easier.
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usedtosail got a reaction from DB789 in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
And finished up the starboard side this morning.
Next up is building and attaching the rudder.
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usedtosail got a reaction from AJohnson in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I a had some thin silk span which I didn't like. For these sails I am actually using something called tea bag paper, which is the same or similar to silk span I read. Here is the link to the paper I bought from Amazon:
https://a.co/d/jfCkwMM
I know this is controversial and I thought about leaving the copper foil smooth, but I wanted some texture on them. When I built the Constitution model many years ago there was a discussion on this forum about how the copper plates look on the real ship, and that's where the idea of the raised "bumps" came from. In fact I used the same jig I did for the Constitution build. I could have used the ponce wheel on the front of the foil to get indents instead of bumps if I wanted to but I didn't. I may smooth down the bumps a bit with a burnishing stick but maybe not.
Some sad news on the sail making. 🥲 This morning while tightening the bolt rope, I managed to drop my tweezers onto the middle of the spanker and put a hole in it. I am going to continue making the sail, maybe just for practice, but I also may try patching it after it is cut out. I am also going to keep the sail templates over the sails as I work on them so if I drop something again maybe it won't go through the template as easily as the tea bag paper.
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usedtosail reacted to allanyed in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
Love the sails Tom!!! They look really good overall and far nicer than the out-of-scale sewn cloth sails we see too often.
The use of the copper foil is also very nice, but I am curious as to why you chose to have what appears to be big bumps in the photos rather than the indentations they would have had in real life from the small nails used to attach them to the hull.
Allan
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usedtosail reacted to AJohnson in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
Really enjoying looking through your excellent log Tom. Your sails look very good, I shall have to download TFFM sail making supplement from David Antscherl as I want to add sails to my current build.
What weight/thickness Silkspan have you used?
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usedtosail got a reaction from Cathead in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I painted the cheeks and added the painted hawse hole pieces. I used a series of small to large drill bits to drill the hawse holes through the bulwarks.
I was having trouble getting the pins to stay in place while creating the loops in the bolt rope on the sails. I had some 1/4" balsa wood sheets laying around so I used them to make a new inset for the sail frame. I cut two 6" wide pieces for the top layer, which fills the whole frame, and some smaller strips for the bottom layer that holds the top pieces together and raises it 1/4" so the top layer is 1/4" from the sail, which is high enough that the sail doesn't touch it. I glued them all together and placed it in the frame (forgetting to take a picture of it). The pins stick into the balsa wood easily and stay upright even when the bolt rope is tensioned. This addition will make adding the bolt ropes much easier.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Theodosius in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I finished up the rudder and tiller and added the pintles and gudgeons. These will be added to the hull later.
I added the cheek pieces to the bow. These will be painted black next along with the hawse hole pieces and the top rails.
I am working on the spanker and both topG sails, which I can make from the same piece of stretched silk span. I am currently adding the bolt ropes. I also transferred the hand drawn plans to the computer so I can have an electronic version of the sail plans and if I have to change the dimensions slightly, which I expect to have to do for the topsails and courses, it will make that task a lot easier.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Mr Whippy in HMS Speedy by usedtosail - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64
I painted the cheeks and added the painted hawse hole pieces. I used a series of small to large drill bits to drill the hawse holes through the bulwarks.
I was having trouble getting the pins to stay in place while creating the loops in the bolt rope on the sails. I had some 1/4" balsa wood sheets laying around so I used them to make a new inset for the sail frame. I cut two 6" wide pieces for the top layer, which fills the whole frame, and some smaller strips for the bottom layer that holds the top pieces together and raises it 1/4" so the top layer is 1/4" from the sail, which is high enough that the sail doesn't touch it. I glued them all together and placed it in the frame (forgetting to take a picture of it). The pins stick into the balsa wood easily and stay upright even when the bolt rope is tensioned. This addition will make adding the bolt ropes much easier.
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usedtosail reacted to kmart in USS Constitution by JSGerson - Model Shipways Kit No. MS2040
Gregg, Definity encourage you to join the Connie Club. The ship itself as a subject is a work of art. The Model Expo kit is great. And there are multiple build logs as great reference material. Jon's is a great log. Also look up usedtosail finished build log. Its effectively a full blown practicum.
But its not for the faint of heart and definitely not a race. I also started my build in 2017. At my current rate.. I'll need more than a few years to complete. Having Jon at roughly the same build phase has been great encouragement to keep me progressing and a great reference/ideas.. We might have leap frogged each other a few times. 🙂
Yup Jon... I cant believe its been almost a year since my last post. But the break was needed, and I'm glad to to get back to the shipyard. I'll post my progress on my guns shortly. I'm not super detailing them as you did. I'm just using the stock ME canons/carriages. (Not the dummy from the kit but the full cannon set.) I came up with a different way to modify the carriages to make them the proper height. Haven't decided how much rigging ill give them yet.