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usedtosail got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
Thanks for the likes, guys.
Planking continues and is getting closer to being finished. I marked off the ends of the planks in belt B on the transom filler block, because it was the only way I could figure out what the widths should be here. I first marked off the plank widths on the last bulkhead, then drew a line across the gap closer to the keel and divided it by the same number of planks. I then drew lines between the two marks and extended them all the way to the keel to get the shapes and widths at the keel:
I found that if I fold the handles down on the binder clips, I can piggy back them to do two planks at once:
Here is the sweet spot - one clamp holds two planks at once:
The gap is getting pretty small, so other clamping methods need to be employed:
This weekend I also finished assembling the ME rope walk I bought in their the 40% off sale. I always wanted to try rope making and this was a low cost way to do that. I twisted up three strands of 0.012" diameter nylon thread and its produced a very nice rope, which is 0.025" diameter.
This just happens to correspond to 6 1/2" real world diameter at the Connie scale, so it is the perfect size for the cannon breech lines. I can untwist the rope slightly and fit it over the cassabel on the end of the cannon, instead of wrapping the whole rope around the casabel:
I also gave the cannon carriages a dry rub of raw sienna paint, which toned down the red a bit.
As always, thanks for looking in and please let me know if I can improve on any of these ideas. I really appreciate any advice or criticism.
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usedtosail reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
A week of working on deadeyes and chains leaves you a little cross-eyed and shaky, so please forgive any typing errors that may occur. In any event, the fore channel deadeyes and chains are done.
As on the bowsprit, the deadeyes are from Model Expo. The lower portion of the chains are the PE brass parts from the kit and the middle links are bent from wire around a simple 2 nail jig. I also added preventer eyebolts, shown in AOTS, between the chains. After looking at the pictures that I took, I realized that some of the chains needed some adjustment, which I made, but didn't take any further pictures (I probably should have).
Now it's on to the main channels.
Bob
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usedtosail reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Mizzen Mast Forestay and Collar
The Mizzen Mast Collar was made up in similar fashion to those on the Bowsprit. It's fully served and has a Heart incorporated :
I turned the Mouse on the lathe after first drilling a 1.2mm hole up the centre. This gives a good fit over the served stay :
The Forestay with mouse fitted :
Lashed to the masts :
Danny
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usedtosail reacted to robnbill in USS Constitution by robnbill (Bill) - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:93 kit - First Build - Bashed
I was able to get the main mast forestays completed and installed today. I have not yet done the crows feet or zig zag line between stays. I do however have a better photo of the crows feet on the fore mast as well as an overall shot of where the Connie is sitting now. I do have a bit of clean up on the paint where the dye in the lines has rubbed on the white. That should be fairly easily done with a cue tip and some acetone.
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usedtosail reacted to M. Pajulahti in USS Constitution by M. Pajulahti - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76
Gun deck floor ready. I think that's enough and a bit more than what would be visible when the model is ready.
Imagining how it will look like when watching thru the companion ways, and I think it will be very nice.
Markku
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usedtosail got a reaction from GLakie in USS Constitution by robnbill (Bill) - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:93 kit - First Build - Bashed
Here is another belaying pin plan for the Constitution that I found, but I forget where:
Belaying Plan.pdf
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usedtosail got a reaction from Starboard III in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
Thanks everyone.
Scott - when those binder clips no longer fit, I will use small drops of CA to hold the planks along with pins pushed through holes drilled through the planks. I have already started to use pins on the extreme ends of the planks over the filler blocks.
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usedtosail got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
I have finished planking belts A and C, and have taken the measurements of the gaps in belt B. Before taking these pictures, I gave the planks a preliminary sanding, mostly to take down the high spots and fill in some of the larger gaps with saw dust .
Starboard side:
Port side:
A few thoughts on the planking so far. Some of the things I like about it:
No major clinkering of the planks. These planks are pretty narrow, so they edge bent easily. I did not have to spile these to get them to curve around the bow. When I planked the Beagle, I had some planks sanded so thin to remove the clikering, I thought I would go all the way through them.
Not too many gaps between planks. I was able to get a pretty good fit with the basswood since they were easy to sand.
Some of the things I don't like / would do differently:
The wales came too far down in the bow. I should have reduced the width of these planks more in the bow so that the gap would have been wider for belt A. I had to add a lot of drop planks to get these to fit.
Some slight clinkering between planks - I am pretty sure this is due to the glue build up of the previous plank, leaving the next plank raised slightly at the join. I will try to eliminate this in belt B by sanding down the bulkheads next to the previous plank before adding the next plank. In any case, this was pretty easy to sand off.
The thickness of the planks was a bit inconsistent, so I have some planks that are a bit below their neighbors. This requires the neighbors to be sanded down a lot, but I am able to use wood filler to fill these voids and avoid some of the sanding. Thankfully, the hull will be painted and coppered.
The width of the planks was just a little wider than shown on the plans, so I was not able to use the planking plan from the plans. The plans show no dropped planks, so I should have paid more attention to it. If I had run all the planking through a sanding drum to get them a little narrower I may have been able to use the plans.
I should have added some of the drop planks more toward the center of the hull, not just on the ends. This would have left the planks a bit wider toward the ends and reduced the number of drop planks. I am going to do this on belt B, so it will be interesting to see the difference.
Toward the end of belts A and C, I started marking the actual plank widths on the bulkheads, so I could see much better where the drop planks should go. I will also be doing this in belt B.
I should have added filler blocks between bulkheads B and C. The planks wanted to flatten between these bulkheads instead of curving nicely.
I also continue to work on the gun deck gun carriages. Here they are painted with the painted trucks in place. In most of these, the trucks are just pressed on. I will be adding the eyebolts and rings for the tackles and breech ropes next.
I will be glad when this planking is over, but I am enjoying it so far.
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usedtosail got a reaction from SkerryAmp in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
I have finished planking belts A and C, and have taken the measurements of the gaps in belt B. Before taking these pictures, I gave the planks a preliminary sanding, mostly to take down the high spots and fill in some of the larger gaps with saw dust .
Starboard side:
Port side:
A few thoughts on the planking so far. Some of the things I like about it:
No major clinkering of the planks. These planks are pretty narrow, so they edge bent easily. I did not have to spile these to get them to curve around the bow. When I planked the Beagle, I had some planks sanded so thin to remove the clikering, I thought I would go all the way through them.
Not too many gaps between planks. I was able to get a pretty good fit with the basswood since they were easy to sand.
Some of the things I don't like / would do differently:
The wales came too far down in the bow. I should have reduced the width of these planks more in the bow so that the gap would have been wider for belt A. I had to add a lot of drop planks to get these to fit.
Some slight clinkering between planks - I am pretty sure this is due to the glue build up of the previous plank, leaving the next plank raised slightly at the join. I will try to eliminate this in belt B by sanding down the bulkheads next to the previous plank before adding the next plank. In any case, this was pretty easy to sand off.
The thickness of the planks was a bit inconsistent, so I have some planks that are a bit below their neighbors. This requires the neighbors to be sanded down a lot, but I am able to use wood filler to fill these voids and avoid some of the sanding. Thankfully, the hull will be painted and coppered.
The width of the planks was just a little wider than shown on the plans, so I was not able to use the planking plan from the plans. The plans show no dropped planks, so I should have paid more attention to it. If I had run all the planking through a sanding drum to get them a little narrower I may have been able to use the plans.
I should have added some of the drop planks more toward the center of the hull, not just on the ends. This would have left the planks a bit wider toward the ends and reduced the number of drop planks. I am going to do this on belt B, so it will be interesting to see the difference.
Toward the end of belts A and C, I started marking the actual plank widths on the bulkheads, so I could see much better where the drop planks should go. I will also be doing this in belt B.
I should have added filler blocks between bulkheads B and C. The planks wanted to flatten between these bulkheads instead of curving nicely.
I also continue to work on the gun deck gun carriages. Here they are painted with the painted trucks in place. In most of these, the trucks are just pressed on. I will be adding the eyebolts and rings for the tackles and breech ropes next.
I will be glad when this planking is over, but I am enjoying it so far.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Ol' Pine Tar in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
I have finished planking belts A and C, and have taken the measurements of the gaps in belt B. Before taking these pictures, I gave the planks a preliminary sanding, mostly to take down the high spots and fill in some of the larger gaps with saw dust .
Starboard side:
Port side:
A few thoughts on the planking so far. Some of the things I like about it:
No major clinkering of the planks. These planks are pretty narrow, so they edge bent easily. I did not have to spile these to get them to curve around the bow. When I planked the Beagle, I had some planks sanded so thin to remove the clikering, I thought I would go all the way through them.
Not too many gaps between planks. I was able to get a pretty good fit with the basswood since they were easy to sand.
Some of the things I don't like / would do differently:
The wales came too far down in the bow. I should have reduced the width of these planks more in the bow so that the gap would have been wider for belt A. I had to add a lot of drop planks to get these to fit.
Some slight clinkering between planks - I am pretty sure this is due to the glue build up of the previous plank, leaving the next plank raised slightly at the join. I will try to eliminate this in belt B by sanding down the bulkheads next to the previous plank before adding the next plank. In any case, this was pretty easy to sand off.
The thickness of the planks was a bit inconsistent, so I have some planks that are a bit below their neighbors. This requires the neighbors to be sanded down a lot, but I am able to use wood filler to fill these voids and avoid some of the sanding. Thankfully, the hull will be painted and coppered.
The width of the planks was just a little wider than shown on the plans, so I was not able to use the planking plan from the plans. The plans show no dropped planks, so I should have paid more attention to it. If I had run all the planking through a sanding drum to get them a little narrower I may have been able to use the plans.
I should have added some of the drop planks more toward the center of the hull, not just on the ends. This would have left the planks a bit wider toward the ends and reduced the number of drop planks. I am going to do this on belt B, so it will be interesting to see the difference.
Toward the end of belts A and C, I started marking the actual plank widths on the bulkheads, so I could see much better where the drop planks should go. I will also be doing this in belt B.
I should have added filler blocks between bulkheads B and C. The planks wanted to flatten between these bulkheads instead of curving nicely.
I also continue to work on the gun deck gun carriages. Here they are painted with the painted trucks in place. In most of these, the trucks are just pressed on. I will be adding the eyebolts and rings for the tackles and breech ropes next.
I will be glad when this planking is over, but I am enjoying it so far.
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usedtosail got a reaction from CaptainSteve in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
I have finished planking belts A and C, and have taken the measurements of the gaps in belt B. Before taking these pictures, I gave the planks a preliminary sanding, mostly to take down the high spots and fill in some of the larger gaps with saw dust .
Starboard side:
Port side:
A few thoughts on the planking so far. Some of the things I like about it:
No major clinkering of the planks. These planks are pretty narrow, so they edge bent easily. I did not have to spile these to get them to curve around the bow. When I planked the Beagle, I had some planks sanded so thin to remove the clikering, I thought I would go all the way through them.
Not too many gaps between planks. I was able to get a pretty good fit with the basswood since they were easy to sand.
Some of the things I don't like / would do differently:
The wales came too far down in the bow. I should have reduced the width of these planks more in the bow so that the gap would have been wider for belt A. I had to add a lot of drop planks to get these to fit.
Some slight clinkering between planks - I am pretty sure this is due to the glue build up of the previous plank, leaving the next plank raised slightly at the join. I will try to eliminate this in belt B by sanding down the bulkheads next to the previous plank before adding the next plank. In any case, this was pretty easy to sand off.
The thickness of the planks was a bit inconsistent, so I have some planks that are a bit below their neighbors. This requires the neighbors to be sanded down a lot, but I am able to use wood filler to fill these voids and avoid some of the sanding. Thankfully, the hull will be painted and coppered.
The width of the planks was just a little wider than shown on the plans, so I was not able to use the planking plan from the plans. The plans show no dropped planks, so I should have paid more attention to it. If I had run all the planking through a sanding drum to get them a little narrower I may have been able to use the plans.
I should have added some of the drop planks more toward the center of the hull, not just on the ends. This would have left the planks a bit wider toward the ends and reduced the number of drop planks. I am going to do this on belt B, so it will be interesting to see the difference.
Toward the end of belts A and C, I started marking the actual plank widths on the bulkheads, so I could see much better where the drop planks should go. I will also be doing this in belt B.
I should have added filler blocks between bulkheads B and C. The planks wanted to flatten between these bulkheads instead of curving nicely.
I also continue to work on the gun deck gun carriages. Here they are painted with the painted trucks in place. In most of these, the trucks are just pressed on. I will be adding the eyebolts and rings for the tackles and breech ropes next.
I will be glad when this planking is over, but I am enjoying it so far.
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usedtosail reacted to AndyMech in USS Constitution by AndyMech - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1:93 - Cross-Section
This weekend I got the main yard installed. I pinned it like the 2 above it, and all the rigging is also in place.
The sling is the 0.8mm rope, with the next photo showing it wrapped around the mast.
Here are all 4 yards:
Next up is to apply the rest of the rigging. It's a little slow going, but I really enjoy it. Most, if not all, of the blocks required have already been installed, so this part is pretty fun.
Andy.
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usedtosail reacted to GTM in Santisima Trinidad by GTM - OcCre - 1:90 - Kit Bashed
I found a few hours of spare time and managed to complete most of the details..
The windlass and knees are now installed..
I also installed an (removable) davit with davit supports, which is used in combination with the windlass, and installed the rudder with a removable tiller.
..and still a few more details left to add..
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usedtosail reacted to CaptainSteve in Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:16 Scale - SMALL
CaptainSteve didst indeed do a dry-brush test with the Black Japan stain afore heading off to work this morning.
"'Twas quite successful, methinks," he didst reporteth. "So here be a las' couple o' pics of me oars."
Firstly, Our Hero didst attacheth his lashings.
Thence, in order not to get black marks upon his oars from the dry-brushing, he didst tapeth them off at each end of the leathers.
("It be the same dealy I didst use to paint me Docker stripes," CaptainSteve didst add.)
"Here they be, aftwards whence I didst removeth the tape. Methinks they be dirtied up just nicely."
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usedtosail got a reaction from robnbill in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
Thanks everyone.
Scott - when those binder clips no longer fit, I will use small drops of CA to hold the planks along with pins pushed through holes drilled through the planks. I have already started to use pins on the extreme ends of the planks over the filler blocks.
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usedtosail got a reaction from Starboard III in Researching a Constitution Build
Use code OC8 at Model Expo and you can get it for $299, although it is on backorder at the moment. This is one of the cheapest prices I have seen for it.
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usedtosail reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 92 – Main Deck Framing 3
Framing of the main deck continues from forward and aft. Additional operational features are also being installed. In the first picture the topsail sheet bits and two round openings for the anchor chain chutes are installed. The samson post is being glued in place toward the bow.
This very large timber extends up above the forecastle deck. It will support the lever arms for the anchor chain winch located on the main deck just below the forecastle break. The levers were operated from the forecastle.
Working just one step behind the drafting sometimes causes problems. The next picture shows the step for the main capstan, which I neglected to install when framing the middle deck.
The decking between the two hatches and the middle bay of framing had to be removed and reworked to include support carlings and the square step itself.
The next picture shows the extent of the main deck framing at that time – a few days ago.
The next picture is a different view. The three rows of carling under the deck cabin can be clearly seen in this picture. The cabin will extend some distance further aft than the beams installed here.
The next picture shows some additional progress on the aft part of the main deck.
The members that will support the capstan on the main deck have been installed including two large support carlings. The design of these supports and the step is speculative. It will soon be time to make the smaller forward water tank and install both iron tanks while there is still access. The bilge suction pipes will also need to be installed soon.
The next picture was taken while I could still place a smaller camera on the middle deck. The view is forward along the middle deck
In the foreground is the main hatch and the bilge pipe openings. The dark areas along the waterways are shadows of the deck beams.
The last picture is one of those scary close-ups taken through one of the view ports.
This was taken at F8 – the smallest aperture on the smaller camera - so the foreground is out of focus, but the detail of the knees on the middle deck framing can be clearly seen – also a scarph jint in the deck clamp.
Ed
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usedtosail reacted to CaptainSteve in Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:16 Scale - SMALL
Arrr ...
I didst doeth a little test this eventide using the chamois cloth ...
Firstly, I didst cutteth some thin strips of cloth ...
Thence, didst I taketh a spare piece o' dowel, smear a bit of white glue upon it, and thence wrap me "lashing" around it ..
Finally, having only just recently learned of "dry-brushing", CaptainSteve didst next very lightly brush the test piece with dark brown wood stain.
Here be the test next to one o' me oars.
Next up, I be thinkin' o' tryin' exactly the same thing again, but using the Black Japan stain. I be hopin' that the darker stain will make the edges stand out a little better.
But that will have to wait for now ...
EDIT: Please see THIS ENTRY, where fellow Bounty Launch builder, Cathead, reveals important information.
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usedtosail reacted to michael mott in Skipjack by michael mott - 1/8th scale - SMALL - 19 foot open launch
I have been doing some research into the whole engine building aspect of this little launch. I made the top part of the engine this evening it still need a bit more work to add the top plat to seal in the water cavity the spark plugs will thread through the plate into the main body thereby allowing water to circulate around the part that goes through the cavity.
This drawing shows the section through the engine and sections through the cylinder head.
Buffalo 3HP sheet 1.pdf
this is the top part of the head
Buffalo 3HP sheet 2.pdf
And the brass part I made today
Michael
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usedtosail reacted to M. Pajulahti in USS Constitution by M. Pajulahti - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76
Cutted the bulkhead middle supports off from the area where main hatch will be. I'm planning to do the same with companion ways area, where also will be ladders down. My new spar deck supports are excellent, since the top part of bulkheads seems to be very strong now, even they have no middle supports at all. Those were very good to add there.
Markku
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usedtosail got a reaction from Starboard III in Researching a Constitution Build
I am attempting to build the MS kit in an 1812 configuration. The link to my build log is below. Also, check out this build log, which is plastic but has a lot of information on the 1812 configuration:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/270-uss-constitution-by-force9-revell-plastic-revisiting-the-classic-196-kit/#entry2211
TimI and Mundie are also building the MS kit in the 1812 configuration.
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usedtosail got a reaction from GLakie in Researching a Constitution Build
I am attempting to build the MS kit in an 1812 configuration. The link to my build log is below. Also, check out this build log, which is plastic but has a lot of information on the 1812 configuration:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/270-uss-constitution-by-force9-revell-plastic-revisiting-the-classic-196-kit/#entry2211
TimI and Mundie are also building the MS kit in the 1812 configuration.
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usedtosail reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Thank you. Its a tough thing to describe in writing. It is so much easier to demo it. That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference. I will talk it over with the guys. I actually did one for my local club members. I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes. What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color. Th e teacher was rough to say the least. If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail. I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later. I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches. Oh the memories of art school.
Anyway, after spending hours cleaning the shop, I had a chance to cut those forward ports. I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off. I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports. You can see it in the photo. Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels. This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow. I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull. You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was. I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow. It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner. But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently. Then its on to planking. You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look. I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side. As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care. I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean. You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down. The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily. You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads. It makes proper placement a lot easier.
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usedtosail got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:16 Scale - SMALL
Really nice tool box and oars, Steve. I used tan lines for the oars, but since yours will be weathered, I'd go with a dark brown.
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usedtosail got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Constitution by usedtosail - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1/76
Planking continues within the two planking belts on each side. I did remeasure each belt after putting in about half the planks and adjusted the plan. I could have used wider planks in Belt A (below the wales) if I had added more drop planks towards the middle of the hull, but it is not enough of a difference now to start over. I ended up with one less plank in Belt C (next to the keel), but I am happy with the way this belt came out.
While waiting for planks to dry, I have been doing some painting of the gun parts for the gun deck. I used weathered black paint for the gun barrels and here is how they came out.
I also painted the trucks for the gun carriages black. I was going to hold them with toothpicks while painting them, but I found all these pointed pieces of wood in the trash pile from the tapering of the planks, and these worked great: