usedtosail

Little metal works for the upper deck. I built myself a jeeg for rings with shanks of various sizes:







 

In addition to the usual slow down in the shipyard during holiday season, this year I’m also distracted by the World Cup (sad day yesterday for English fans), and locally I have already used my snowblower more this year than the last two or three put together. And winter is still 10 days away!
 
I did not build and install the aft guard rail on the fighting top when instructed, figuring it would get in the way of stringing the running rigging, and I think that was a good decision, although the rigging now made the job of installing the built rail a little more challenging.
 
The instructions suggest putting the netting material on top of wax paper and giving it a coat of diluted white school glue, then pressing the aft frame against the wet glue.  I was afraid the wax paper would be difficult to remove once the glue dried, and I took a different approach.  I laid one frame on top of wax paper (to protect the surface below), then stretched the netting across that frame, and then gave everything a good coat of glue. When that was dry, I glued the other frame on top of the first frame with the netting sandwiched in between. That worked pretty well. The reason I wanted the netting coated with diluted white glue was to stiffen it and eliminate the creases in the netting material (since it was folded as supplied). With a new sharp blade in my knife, I cut away the excess netting.  The material cuts much more cleanly when it has been stiffened with glue, but after cutting there was still a bit of stubble left. I applied another coat of glue around the frame, then a coat of pain, and then gave it another cut.  The result was not as clean as I had hoped, but from any reasonable viewing distance it looks pretty good.


A challenge I had not anticipated was that the aft deadeyes, solidly glued in place months ago on the fighting top deck, get in the way of the assembled guard rail.  I had to do some cutting and shaving at each end of the guard rail base and the outer stanchion of the rail so that the rail would fit. Nevertheless the base sticks out beyond the aft edge of the deck, rather than being flush with it, but that was the best I could do.

I am also getting started with the lower ratlines, another project I did not do when directed in the instructions, thinking they would get in the way of  the stringing of running rigging.  In retrospect I’m not sure that was a good decision, but rigging the ratlines is nevertheless progressing satisfactorily.

Next post will cover rope coils. 

Standing rigging of the main and fore top Gallant shrouds and stays continues. I added the topmast catharpins then the topG shrouds. I then added the main and fore topmast stays. I am currently tying the ratlines to the fore and main topmast shrouds, then I'll add them to the topG shrouds.
 
I also added the mizzen crows feet. I am using the supplied 0.1mm thread for these. The first thing I had to figure out was how to thread these when the top has an even number of holes (it is supposed to have an odd number and the line is supposed to start at the euphroe). I sketched it out on paper and it took a few tries to get it, but then I used the sketch as a guide.
 

 
Threading these requires running the line down through the mast top but also up from underneath. I found it impossible to thread the line from underneath even with CA on the line. Not being able to see the hole just made the end go limp after a few tries. So I tried using an eyeless needle, shown in the above image on the right, and it worked a treat.
 

 

 
Here is how the crows feet came out. I have the blocks just tied off to the stay for now but I am pleased with the result so far.
 

 
 

Standing rigging of the main and fore top Gallant shrouds and stays continues. I added the topmast catharpins then the topG shrouds. I then added the main and fore topmast stays. I am currently tying the ratlines to the fore and main topmast shrouds, then I'll add them to the topG shrouds.
 
I also added the mizzen crows feet. I am using the supplied 0.1mm thread for these. The first thing I had to figure out was how to thread these when the top has an even number of holes (it is supposed to have an odd number and the line is supposed to start at the euphroe). I sketched it out on paper and it took a few tries to get it, but then I used the sketch as a guide.
 

 
Threading these requires running the line down through the mast top but also up from underneath. I found it impossible to thread the line from underneath even with CA on the line. Not being able to see the hole just made the end go limp after a few tries. So I tried using an eyeless needle, shown in the above image on the right, and it worked a treat.
 

 

 
Here is how the crows feet came out. I have the blocks just tied off to the stay for now but I am pleased with the result so far.
 

 
 

Standing rigging of the main and fore top Gallant shrouds and stays continues. I added the topmast catharpins then the topG shrouds. I then added the main and fore topmast stays. I am currently tying the ratlines to the fore and main topmast shrouds, then I'll add them to the topG shrouds.
 
I also added the mizzen crows feet. I am using the supplied 0.1mm thread for these. The first thing I had to figure out was how to thread these when the top has an even number of holes (it is supposed to have an odd number and the line is supposed to start at the euphroe). I sketched it out on paper and it took a few tries to get it, but then I used the sketch as a guide.
 

 
Threading these requires running the line down through the mast top but also up from underneath. I found it impossible to thread the line from underneath even with CA on the line. Not being able to see the hole just made the end go limp after a few tries. So I tried using an eyeless needle, shown in the above image on the right, and it worked a treat.
 

 

 
Here is how the crows feet came out. I have the blocks just tied off to the stay for now but I am pleased with the result so far.
 

 
 

Standing rigging of the main and fore top Gallant shrouds and stays continues. I added the topmast catharpins then the topG shrouds. I then added the main and fore topmast stays. I am currently tying the ratlines to the fore and main topmast shrouds, then I'll add them to the topG shrouds.
 
I also added the mizzen crows feet. I am using the supplied 0.1mm thread for these. The first thing I had to figure out was how to thread these when the top has an even number of holes (it is supposed to have an odd number and the line is supposed to start at the euphroe). I sketched it out on paper and it took a few tries to get it, but then I used the sketch as a guide.
 

 
Threading these requires running the line down through the mast top but also up from underneath. I found it impossible to thread the line from underneath even with CA on the line. Not being able to see the hole just made the end go limp after a few tries. So I tried using an eyeless needle, shown in the above image on the right, and it worked a treat.
 

 

 
Here is how the crows feet came out. I have the blocks just tied off to the stay for now but I am pleased with the result so far.
 

 
 

Standing rigging of the main and fore top Gallant shrouds and stays continues. I added the topmast catharpins then the topG shrouds. I then added the main and fore topmast stays. I am currently tying the ratlines to the fore and main topmast shrouds, then I'll add them to the topG shrouds.
 
I also added the mizzen crows feet. I am using the supplied 0.1mm thread for these. The first thing I had to figure out was how to thread these when the top has an even number of holes (it is supposed to have an odd number and the line is supposed to start at the euphroe). I sketched it out on paper and it took a few tries to get it, but then I used the sketch as a guide.
 

 
Threading these requires running the line down through the mast top but also up from underneath. I found it impossible to thread the line from underneath even with CA on the line. Not being able to see the hole just made the end go limp after a few tries. So I tried using an eyeless needle, shown in the above image on the right, and it worked a treat.
 

 

 
Here is how the crows feet came out. I have the blocks just tied off to the stay for now but I am pleased with the result so far.
 

 
 

Thanks Glenn and for the likes.
 
After a nice week's vacation in Canada I am back in the shop. I have finished installing the futtock staves and have started adding the catharpins and futtock shrouds. I apologize for the crappy photos but I find taking pictures of rigging not easy.
 

 

 

Its been a while since the last update but I have been making some progress with the rigging. I finished rigging the lower shroud deadeyes and the stays. I started to move onto the futtock staves and ratlines by first enlarging the supplied plans that show the ratlines to the same scale as the model, cutting out the shroud sections and gluing them to some manila folder material. I trimmed them to fit behind the shrouds and immediately saw that the mizzen mast was too high! The mizzen mast top was almost as.high as the main top, so I should have noticed it sooner. I made the mast the correct height but it did not fit all the way into the hull when I installed it. So off came the mizzen shrouds and stay and out came the mast. I trimmed the bottom of the mast to fit more into the hull and checked the height, which was now good. I was able to salvage most of the shrouds but I did have to remake one pair and the stay. These are now re-installed and I just need to tighten the shroud lashings and tie them off to the shrouds.
 

 
While I was reworking the mizzen mast I also started adding the futtock staves to the fore and main shrouds.
 

 
I have also started making the futtock shrouds using the supplied PE hooks. I did have to carefully drill out the holes in the hooks to fit the line for the shrouds.

Next update:  Bottom Coppering under way.   over two weekends,   made significant progress.. From 0 to up to the first Gore line.
 
I'm not doing individual  plates. I mass produce about about 12 strips at a time.  Working on both sides in parallels.  2 strakes on port then 2 on starboard.   That will help keep them symmetrical.  Each strip about 10" long.   Need three strips for one strake bow to stern Made a simple jig for scoring the plates using my cutting mat..  just put in lines  using masking tape on the mat, spaced for each plate.   Then where to crore was all layed out.    Jut lay strip on mat.... follow the marks.  Each strip  I score "gently"  with a knife.  to simulate individual planks. Took me a few practice trial runs to figure out right pressure to score but not cut the copper. Then use seamstress wheel to add all the nail heads. One I get into a rhythm takes me an hour to prepare the 12 strips.  I wore medical latex gloves when doing all the copper work.    minimized fingerprints on the copper.  plus as the latex is smooth, you can use your fingers to really press the tape down flat.. especially the edges where they overlap.  Used my waterline marker to mark where each gore line goes The tape near the waterline is the top gore that goes up to the black paint  
First four days of work
It gets faster as you go along.
I mass produced the strips a few at a time on the weekdays after work .
Then I went from the above pic to all the rest of the way to the gore line this past weekend.  (as the strips were all prepped in advance)
Up to the first gore line
Top view

 
Bow:
Camera + direct lighting make the plates look far more  wrinkled then you notice with bare eyes from any distance
 
Managed to get buy with only two fillers/stealer pieces .  One in bow   one at sten.  Yes match on both sides.
If you look close you can see both of them


 

Overall,  I think it came out decent.
Viewed from the side.... The gore line looks nice and  level with both table and waterline
 
That's the roughed out future/final stand for her.   So that's how she will sit when eventually finished.
They  screw into bottom of keel into a threaded fitting.
 

 

 

 
It will take me at least a few more weekends ( probably a month)  to finish up to the waterline.  
That's it for now.
K
 
 

The main bitts:

Mast rake from my notes when I built the Connie:
 
2.5 deg fore, 3 deg main, almost 4 deg mizzen
 
I believe I measured these angles off the Model Shipways plans.

Mast rake from my notes when I built the Connie:
 
2.5 deg fore, 3 deg main, almost 4 deg mizzen
 
I believe I measured these angles off the Model Shipways plans.

Mast rake from my notes when I built the Connie:
 
2.5 deg fore, 3 deg main, almost 4 deg mizzen
 
I believe I measured these angles off the Model Shipways plans.

Mast rake from my notes when I built the Connie:
 
2.5 deg fore, 3 deg main, almost 4 deg mizzen
 
I believe I measured these angles off the Model Shipways plans.

I finished cleaning up the topmast shrouds and added the futtock staves. I used pieces of thin wire for these and tied them on with fly tying thread b because they are so small. That thread looks nice when done but it is sure a pain to work with. It is so thin that it is hard to grab and tye and being black it is very hard to see. But I persevered and eventually got them all tied on. I used some thin CA to fix the threads to the wire to really hold them in place.
 

 
I started the ratlines with the mizzen topmast shrouds but I need to seize the topgallant shrouds to the topmast shrouds at the futtock staves before I can add the ratlines on the fore and main topmasts.
 

 
I glued the fore and main topG masts in place but not before I added all the blocks (not like last time). I will now add the topG shrouds and the topmast ratlines, but I am also preparing to add the crows feet. I stropped 2mm single blocks to tie to the stays and also stropped them to the euphroes. Those blocks are the smallest I have ever worked with, but I was able to use the same technique I use on larger blocks. I also stropped hooks to thimbles for the ends of the preventer stays and the main topG stay.
 

 

I finished cleaning up the topmast shrouds and added the futtock staves. I used pieces of thin wire for these and tied them on with fly tying thread b because they are so small. That thread looks nice when done but it is sure a pain to work with. It is so thin that it is hard to grab and tye and being black it is very hard to see. But I persevered and eventually got them all tied on. I used some thin CA to fix the threads to the wire to really hold them in place.
 

 
I started the ratlines with the mizzen topmast shrouds but I need to seize the topgallant shrouds to the topmast shrouds at the futtock staves before I can add the ratlines on the fore and main topmasts.
 

 
I glued the fore and main topG masts in place but not before I added all the blocks (not like last time). I will now add the topG shrouds and the topmast ratlines, but I am also preparing to add the crows feet. I stropped 2mm single blocks to tie to the stays and also stropped them to the euphroes. Those blocks are the smallest I have ever worked with, but I was able to use the same technique I use on larger blocks. I also stropped hooks to thimbles for the ends of the preventer stays and the main topG stay.
 

 

I finished cleaning up the topmast shrouds and added the futtock staves. I used pieces of thin wire for these and tied them on with fly tying thread b because they are so small. That thread looks nice when done but it is sure a pain to work with. It is so thin that it is hard to grab and tye and being black it is very hard to see. But I persevered and eventually got them all tied on. I used some thin CA to fix the threads to the wire to really hold them in place.
 

 
I started the ratlines with the mizzen topmast shrouds but I need to seize the topgallant shrouds to the topmast shrouds at the futtock staves before I can add the ratlines on the fore and main topmasts.
 

 
I glued the fore and main topG masts in place but not before I added all the blocks (not like last time). I will now add the topG shrouds and the topmast ratlines, but I am also preparing to add the crows feet. I stropped 2mm single blocks to tie to the stays and also stropped them to the euphroes. Those blocks are the smallest I have ever worked with, but I was able to use the same technique I use on larger blocks. I also stropped hooks to thimbles for the ends of the preventer stays and the main topG stay.
 

 

I finished cleaning up the topmast shrouds and added the futtock staves. I used pieces of thin wire for these and tied them on with fly tying thread b because they are so small. That thread looks nice when done but it is sure a pain to work with. It is so thin that it is hard to grab and tye and being black it is very hard to see. But I persevered and eventually got them all tied on. I used some thin CA to fix the threads to the wire to really hold them in place.
 

 
I started the ratlines with the mizzen topmast shrouds but I need to seize the topgallant shrouds to the topmast shrouds at the futtock staves before I can add the ratlines on the fore and main topmasts.
 

 
I glued the fore and main topG masts in place but not before I added all the blocks (not like last time). I will now add the topG shrouds and the topmast ratlines, but I am also preparing to add the crows feet. I stropped 2mm single blocks to tie to the stays and also stropped them to the euphroes. Those blocks are the smallest I have ever worked with, but I was able to use the same technique I use on larger blocks. I also stropped hooks to thimbles for the ends of the preventer stays and the main topG stay.
 

 

I finished cleaning up the topmast shrouds and added the futtock staves. I used pieces of thin wire for these and tied them on with fly tying thread b because they are so small. That thread looks nice when done but it is sure a pain to work with. It is so thin that it is hard to grab and tye and being black it is very hard to see. But I persevered and eventually got them all tied on. I used some thin CA to fix the threads to the wire to really hold them in place.
 

 
I started the ratlines with the mizzen topmast shrouds but I need to seize the topgallant shrouds to the topmast shrouds at the futtock staves before I can add the ratlines on the fore and main topmasts.
 

 
I glued the fore and main topG masts in place but not before I added all the blocks (not like last time). I will now add the topG shrouds and the topmast ratlines, but I am also preparing to add the crows feet. I stropped 2mm single blocks to tie to the stays and also stropped them to the euphroes. Those blocks are the smallest I have ever worked with, but I was able to use the same technique I use on larger blocks. I also stropped hooks to thimbles for the ends of the preventer stays and the main topG stay.
 

 

Thanks Ben. Not a big deal. Just a little irritating when you think you've selected better. 
 
I built the ships wheel, binnacle and breastrail per Chuck's direction and placed them in their correct locations as well as the already completed capstan. Just take your time and follow the directions and all will be fine.  I still have to add the pawls to the capstan and the companionway railings. I'm still toying with adding the rope to the ships wheel. I'll probably add some to see how it looks and decide from there.
 

I keep a rubber cleaning block meant to clean sanding discs and belts on my bench if using sandpaper on the char as Chuck describes.  The rubber when dragged across the sandpaper will remove the char from the sandpaper.  If you use a disc sander or a belt sander you probably have used one of these cleaning blocks.  Available at most stores selling sanding tool - even Micro-Mark has them.  This will prolong the usefulness of the sandpaper.
 
 

Getting closer on the transom...
 

Making steady progress.
not sure of their proper name but been working on the head boards.... that fits between the 4th rail and top rail.
Decided to make them off ship and then place them in postion after there all made and painted.
 
First.. used a contour guide and traced the shape of the area for the headboards on some heave computer paper. Edge glued enough planks together proper size of template. Template was close enough to use for both port and starboard. Just cut pieces a bit larger and trimmed to proper side size.  
 

Added stiffeners.    Not the top and bottom edges of stiffeners need to be cut at angle in order to sit flush against the rails.   This piece is angled outboard on the top edge.

 
Added the top rail next.
This needed to be steamed and bent in a jig.   (Just slighly)     in order to fit flat against the bow bulwarks and then curve up to the stem.
While the curve isn't that much... there is not a lot of surface area to glue against.      easier to steam the wood and not have to force it, soo as  to not  have stress on the glue joint. 
 
 

Cleanedd up head boards and test fit.


Painted  and glued it.

 

I have also been working on the head gratings in parallels.    They were fitted (but not glued) before putting the side boards in.   just easier than trying in that tight area afterwards. Still need to stain to the right color and work on the head seats.
 
I'll post pictures of those next time.
 
I'm just about ready to declare the bow done (for now) 
Next up.... start the hull coppering.
 
 
 
.  
 

Stropping those blocks to the masts was not very difficult, so once they were in place I was able to add the topmast shrouds, the topmast stays and preventer stays, and the backstays. I served these lines like their lower counterparts. On the backstay pairs I seized a short piece of served line in the middle as a cut splice. Working from the mizzen mast to the fore mast, I first seized the deadeyes to the ends of the topmast shrouds and added the lanyards, but did not tighten them up yet. I then added the stay and preventer stay but again did not tighten the tackle lines yet. Finally I added the backstays, tightened them, then the stay and preventer stays, then finally the topmast shrouds. I found this the best way to keep everything taught without pulling the masts out of alignment. I am still working may way up to the bow, with the mizzen topmast just about finished.
 

 

 
I had a bit of a scare when I was adding the fore topmast stay and preventer stay. I started to tighten the tackle lines and the bowsprit decided to come unglued and slid back into the hull. I realized that the only thing holding the bowsprit was the glue in the hole in the bitts which didn't; really make a good gluing surface. Nothing was pulling the bowsprit forward. So I held the bowsprit in the bitts with some clamps and drilled a small hole through the bitt into the bowsprit and put one of the nails that came with the kit into the hole. I cut off the excess nail and put a drop of brown paint on the end to hid it. Now the bowsprit can't move and I could continue rigging the stays.
 

 

 
Next I'll be adding the topmast futtock staves and the ratlines, then rigging the topG shrouds on the fore and main masts.