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popeye2sea

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About popeye2sea

  • Birthday 11/09/1961

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    Boston, MA

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  1. popeye2sea started following pin vise and drill bits
  2.    FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  3.    FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  4.    FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  5. popeye2sea
    That will work for the fore braces, but the main brace standing end starts right aft on an eyebolt on the exterior bulkhead aft of the mizzen channels. The plan has the working end made fast to the flagstaff. Obviously that is incorrect, but I have not yet worked out where to belay it. Perhaps to one of the kevels in front of the half poop deck. Regards,
  6.    Baker reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  7.    GGibson reacted to a post in a topic: 2.5mm thimble sleeves/blocks
  8. popeye2sea
    I don't agree at all. Syren makes some of the most accurate and well formed blocks on the market! Possibly the only thing better would be an actual working block. Which would be next to impossible for a 2mm block. Regards, Henry
  9.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  10. popeye2sea
    That is correct. Although there may have been more than one linstock per barrel. Perhaps one tub per two guns would have worked? Or maybe one tub per division of guns? I have also read of something called a halliard tub that would be placed to corral the length of the halliard after raising the yard. But, I do not know why, or how they might have been employed. Wouldn't you just coil the halliard on the belay point just like any other line? Regards, Henry
  11.    Baker reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  12.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  13. popeye2sea
    Like all of the cannon implements, the linstocks were normally kept stowed away when not in action. The tub is there to hold the lighted slow match, held in the linstock, from falling over and igniting anything inadvertently. The slow match is lit and remains smoldering throughout the battle. That is why you so often read about the gunner blowing on the slow match to cause the match to flare prior to applying it to the touch hole. So, no, the linstock is not stored in the tub upside-down. There is a separate tub provided for the sponge water. Regards, Henry
  14.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  15.    Ian_Grant reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  16. popeye2sea
    The instructions call those slow match tubs. The other tubs (part no. 160, two halves) are supposed to be a sponge tub. In my opinion the slow match holder (linstock) is a very poor representation. There should be sort of a, curved, tee-shaped, iron bracket at the top to hold the slow match. What they have there looks like it comes straight out of Disney's "sorcerers apprentice." Regards, Henry
  17.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: Rigging Question - Forestay & Bobstay Deadeye/Heart Lanyards
  18. popeye2sea
    Another way that the lanyard was finished was to seize the parts of the rope together at several points within the turns and the end hitched once or twice around the stay, similar to rigging shroud deadeyes. Or the hitches can be omitted and the end just seized to the part next to itself between the deadeyes or hearts, which will provide a much neater look. Regards, Henry
  19.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by JimO - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC
  20.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: SOLEIL ROYAL by Robert Taylor - Heller - 1/100 scale - PLASTIC - side project
  21.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by JimO - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC
  22. popeye2sea
    A becket is the loop (eye) of rope on one end of the block. It typically takes the standing end of the tackle fall. The fall is the rope that reeves through the sheaves of the blocks. The standing end is the end of the rope that is fixed (does not move), with the other end of the rope being known as the running or hauling part. Sometimes the becket is part of the block strop. In other applications the becket is a separate loop of rope attached to the strop. The standing end of the tackle fall is fastened to the becket using a becket bend (I know, creative naming). Regards, Henry
  23.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Glen McGuire - BlueJacket Bicentennial Edition - 1/96 - Repair and Completion of Construction
  24. popeye2sea
    Robin, I am assuming that the block in the last pic is the one you are using, and that the eye bolt is already installed on the gaff. Take that strop (the rope loop around the block) off of the block and remake another one so that there is a loop (eye) on both ends. One way to do that is to make a loop with rope that will be large enough to go around the block with extra on both sides to form the eyes. Then you finish making the eyes by wrapping a few turns of thread and tying off so that the wraps (seizing) are tight against the block, just above and just below the block. You should end up with a block that is stropped like the one in the plans. Now you can simply tie the lower eye to the ring bolt on the gaff, and the upper eye will take the rope which forms the tackle (the part that runs through and between two blocks). Regards, Henry
  25. popeye2sea
    That's a beauty. Have you seen the YouTube channel by Engels Coach Shop. He builds real coaches for a living. Yours looks identical. Regards, Henry
  26. popeye2sea
    Anyone else having trouble opening this file? Henry
  27. popeye2sea
    Glen, Great fix on the trysail mast, and an overall superb job on the re-rig for your client. Ah, yes, mai-tai's and scorpion bowls; de rigueur cocktails at Chinese restaurants everywhere. I remember putting together several straws to make one very long one and stealing from others scorpion bowls in my youth. Regards, Henry
  28.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Glen McGuire - BlueJacket Bicentennial Edition - 1/96 - Repair and Completion of Construction
  29. popeye2sea
    Each pendant or block should have an eye spliced in and fitted over the end of the yard arm. The inside one butts up against the yard arm cleat and the rest snug up close to the preceding one. The fittings usually went over the yardarm in a specific order, usually with the footrope being first over (most inboard) and then proceeding outward with the yard tackle pendant, brace pendant, topsail sheet block, and the lift block being the last (furthest outboard). Regards, Henry
  30.    popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Glen McGuire - BlueJacket Bicentennial Edition - 1/96 - Repair and Completion of Construction
  31. popeye2sea
    Hi Glen, I know it's too late for this build, but you appear to be installing your blocks backwards. The hole for the tackle line should be closer to the top or strop eye end of the block. The hole represents where the line enters to go around a sheave that has its pin or axle in the middle of the block. The line should appear to pass on both sides almost the length of the block and around that imaginary sheave. Info for the next build. Regards, Henry
  32. popeye2sea
    If you are feeling ambitious, The Ashley Book of Knots describes several ways to make up baggywrinkle. Picked apart rope yarns (thrums) are knotted around or through a line and packed together tightly. Winding the line around the article to to be protected completes the baggywrinkle. Regards, Henry
  33. popeye2sea
    Congrats, That photo looks like it's of a real ship. Regards, Henry

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