popeye2sea
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Constitution by Glen McGuire - BlueJacket Bicentennial Edition - 1/96 - Repair and Completion of Construction
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tmj reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Constitution by Glen McGuire - BlueJacket Bicentennial Edition - 1/96 - Repair and Completion of Construction
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Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Constitution by Glen McGuire - BlueJacket Bicentennial Edition - 1/96 - Repair and Completion of Construction
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A couple of points: US Navy ships (or any Naval vessel) would rarely dock. They would normally anchor off (reduced the potential for desertion). When a ship did dock, the sided chosen to be alongside the quay would be determined by the purpose or the job to be done while docked. At anchor, the angle that a ship assumes to the wind is dependent on both the wind and the current, with the bow pointing generally up-wind and against the current. Set your flags flying however floats your boat. Regards, Henry -
FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Victory Steam Trunk
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A steam trunk is the compartment through which the smoke stack passes. In modern ships it often contains blower motors for ventilation and exhaust and would often have a hatch for access. A steamer trunk is a type of valise for travel items on longer voyages. Victory probably has a rudimentary steam trunk around the galley smoke stack to keep the heat from the beams. Regards, Henry
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Marc, I have a spreadsheet that I have partially completed that details and elaborates on all of the rigging. It is still a work in progress (Life, right?), but I can send it to you. I will also send the finished product when done. Regards, Henry
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"Drench", nice. I will have to remember that one.
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- Ship of the line
- 1/100 Scale
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How low do these tables adjust to? It would be nice to have a table that lowers so that working on upper rigging is not such a reach. Regards, Henry
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That will work for the fore braces, but the main brace standing end starts right aft on an eyebolt on the exterior bulkhead aft of the mizzen channels. The plan has the working end made fast to the flagstaff. Obviously that is incorrect, but I have not yet worked out where to belay it. Perhaps to one of the kevels in front of the half poop deck. Regards,
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2.5mm thimble sleeves/blocks
popeye2sea replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I don't agree at all. Syren makes some of the most accurate and well formed blocks on the market! Possibly the only thing better would be an actual working block. Which would be next to impossible for a 2mm block. Regards, Henry -
That is correct. Although there may have been more than one linstock per barrel. Perhaps one tub per two guns would have worked? Or maybe one tub per division of guns? I have also read of something called a halliard tub that would be placed to corral the length of the halliard after raising the yard. But, I do not know why, or how they might have been employed. Wouldn't you just coil the halliard on the belay point just like any other line? Regards, Henry
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Like all of the cannon implements, the linstocks were normally kept stowed away when not in action. The tub is there to hold the lighted slow match, held in the linstock, from falling over and igniting anything inadvertently. The slow match is lit and remains smoldering throughout the battle. That is why you so often read about the gunner blowing on the slow match to cause the match to flare prior to applying it to the touch hole. So, no, the linstock is not stored in the tub upside-down. There is a separate tub provided for the sponge water. Regards, Henry
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The instructions call those slow match tubs. The other tubs (part no. 160, two halves) are supposed to be a sponge tub. In my opinion the slow match holder (linstock) is a very poor representation. There should be sort of a, curved, tee-shaped, iron bracket at the top to hold the slow match. What they have there looks like it comes straight out of Disney's "sorcerers apprentice." Regards, Henry
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Rigging Question - Forestay & Bobstay Deadeye/Heart Lanyards
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Another way that the lanyard was finished was to seize the parts of the rope together at several points within the turns and the end hitched once or twice around the stay, similar to rigging shroud deadeyes. Or the hitches can be omitted and the end just seized to the part next to itself between the deadeyes or hearts, which will provide a much neater look. Regards, Henry
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by JimO - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
SOLEIL ROYAL by Robert Taylor - Heller - 1/100 scale - PLASTIC - side project
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by JimO - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC
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Beckets on bluejacket double block
popeye2sea replied to Barbara's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
A becket is the loop (eye) of rope on one end of the block. It typically takes the standing end of the tackle fall. The fall is the rope that reeves through the sheaves of the blocks. The standing end is the end of the rope that is fixed (does not move), with the other end of the rope being known as the running or hauling part. Sometimes the becket is part of the block strop. In other applications the becket is a separate loop of rope attached to the strop. The standing end of the tackle fall is fastened to the becket using a becket bend (I know, creative naming). Regards, Henry -
popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Constitution by Glen McGuire - BlueJacket Bicentennial Edition - 1/96 - Repair and Completion of Construction
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Robin, I am assuming that the block in the last pic is the one you are using, and that the eye bolt is already installed on the gaff. Take that strop (the rope loop around the block) off of the block and remake another one so that there is a loop (eye) on both ends. One way to do that is to make a loop with rope that will be large enough to go around the block with extra on both sides to form the eyes. Then you finish making the eyes by wrapping a few turns of thread and tying off so that the wraps (seizing) are tight against the block, just above and just below the block. You should end up with a block that is stropped like the one in the plans. Now you can simply tie the lower eye to the ring bolt on the gaff, and the upper eye will take the rope which forms the tackle (the part that runs through and between two blocks). Regards, Henry
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stagecoach by kgstakes - 1/8th scale
popeye2sea replied to kgstakes's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
That's a beauty. Have you seen the YouTube channel by Engels Coach Shop. He builds real coaches for a living. Yours looks identical. Regards, Henry -
Anyone else having trouble opening this file? Henry
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