popeye2sea
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Woodwork/Model making workshop. Scale 1:1
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
cutting, feeding, fixing model ship rope
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Question on Sails
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Question on Sails
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
cutting, feeding, fixing model ship rope
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
cutting, feeding, fixing model ship rope
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cutting, feeding, fixing model ship rope
popeye2sea replied to palmerit's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If you want an authentic way to finish a rope end, whip the end with thread before trimming the rope close to the whipping. Might be worth the effort for the larger ropes used on a ship. Probably not worth the effort for smaller stuff. Regards, Henry -
popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal 1693 by John Ott - FINISHED - Heller - 1:100 - PLASTIC
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davyboy reacted to a post in a topic:
Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
popeye2sea replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Gaskets -
popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
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Those are called reef points, and many modelers include them on their builds. The hardest part of including them is getting them to lay down in a natural fashion. Regards, Henry
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Carronades
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Carronades
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I do not think square riggers had or even needed tell tails on their sails. Fore and aft rigs are, naturally, different, and I have no knowledge one way or the other of tell tails on their sails. Regards, Henry
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
US Frigate Constitution by Marcus.K. - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
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popeye2sea reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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Spritsail yards on Niagara and Constitution
popeye2sea replied to gak1965's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Footropes were still fitted to facilitate getting out to the ends of the spritsail yard. There is an endless amount of maintenance that needs to be done on even the standing rigging. Regards, Henry -
I have a pair with tips starting at 4mm and tapering down to just less than 2mm, but I modified one tip so that it tapers down to about 0.5mm in order to make really small hooks, eyebolts and rings. That one plier will suffice for any size rings that I am likely to encounter. Regards
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Most of the discussion above applies to smaller fore and aft rigs. Big square riggers act very differently. I have read that one of the reasons for mast rake in large square rigs is to get the yards pivot points more aligned in the vertical plane. Each additional upward section of mast being stepped slightly in front of the lower section. Regards, Henry
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If the stem sweeps up to meet the underside of the bowsprit won't you end up with a higher beak head? Henry
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The sheets pass through the side to come inboard for handling. On some ships the "block" that they pass through is no more than a closed chock or hole through the side. In this case they are specifying a rotating sheave let into the hole. Regards,
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google parbuckle for a quick how to. Regards, Henry
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BTW, thought you might want to know that the shaded striping effect on the shield is not a thing either. They would have been solid stripes with distinct edges. The proper blazon would be " Bendy of eight, Gules ands Or". That translates to eight diagonal stripes, alternating red and gold. The two lions rampant (describes how the lions are standing), Or (gold) in chief (the uppermost part of the shield) are actually covering the upper stripes. Think of it as a field of stripes painted on a shield with decorations (they are called charges) placed or painted on top. Regards, Henry
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On the box art the inner lining of the cape is showing the traditional heraldic depiction of "vair", which is squirrel or weasel fur. The alternating dark and light bell figures represent the darker upper fur and the lighter underbelly fur of the animal that were stitched together alternately to form the garment. That could give you some idea as to the color of the cloak lining. Vair was frequently used for the inner linings of the cloaks of the nobility. The other heraldic fur was ermine, considered to be a regal fur used in the crowns and robes of royals. Regards, Henry
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To properly belay a line to a pin the first turn is around the lower part of the pin and then straight up around the top part. In other words, no cross over. The next turn is to cross the line over itself around the lower part of the pin and then the last turn is to throw a half hitch over the top. You end up with 2 thicknesses of line over both the top and bottom parts of the pin. That will provide enough friction to hold any load. As a practical matter, there would not be that large of a variation between the diameters of lines coming down to pins. Anything much bigger than an inch in diameter would probably be belayed to a kevel, knight head, or large cleat. One size of pin throughout the whole vessel would be entirely plausible and practical. Regards, Henry
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Help with depicting extra line on bitts
popeye2sea replied to usedtosail's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I think the problem is that your rigging and belaying plan has led you astray. There were, more than likely, belaying pins or a fife rail for all of those lines. Those bitts are primarily for the anchor cable. There may have been belaying pins set in between the uprights of the bitts. Regards, Henry -
Building on what Pat just said, I would start with the rearmost shroud on each side. With the greatest angle to the mast it has the most influence on the position of the mast. Then do the foremost, followed by the middle. You just have to make sure that all the shroud pairs are laying fair at the masthead. It will be hard to readjust after the rear shrouds are set up since they are on top of all the others. Regards, Henry
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