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popeye2sea

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Everything posted by popeye2sea

  1. popeye2sea
    That looks great. Good job!
  2. popeye2sea
    Yup, looks good to me. If you manage to put a bit more tension on the stay by holding down the bowsprit with a bobstay it should bring things into line that much nicer. Just be careful to not over tension the stay and pull your masts out of alignment. Don't wait on me to see what I will do. It will be several more months before I can even think about re-starting my modeling. Regards, Henry
  3. popeye2sea
    Many years ago I picked up a child's wooden jigsaw puzzle at a craft store. The multiple shapes and angles come in very handy as a sanding block. Regards, Henry
  4. popeye2sea
    The rope thickness you used for the last pic looks good. It is difficult getting the stay to remain straight. I am going to be adding a bob stay to the bowsprit. They were just coming into vogue during this period. That should help offset the upward pull of the fore stay and allow for a bit more tension on the stay to keep it straight. Regards, Henry
  5. popeye2sea
    That looks good. If I might make a suggestion regarding blocks in general. The lay of the lines can be improved by slightly rounding the sharp edge of the hole where it enters the groove on the block. This will allow the rope to lay in closer to the block and not have that unnatural broad parabola shape. Regards, Henry
  6. popeye2sea
    Yes, you got it. Regards, Henry
  7. popeye2sea
    Bill, That paragraph actually answers your question about lead for the braces. If you trace a line vertically, or nearly so, from the blocks on the bowsprit up to the blocks on the stay, that will give you the approximate location to place the blocks e42 - e45. Following on to the placement of those will give you the placement of the upper leg of the spritsail topmast back stay and also in turn the other legs and also the standing ends of the braces. Regards, Henry
  8. popeye2sea
    Bill, The spritsail topmast backstay (the one with the multiple legs) can almost be positioned anywhere that is convenient on the fore stay. It looks like it wants to be with the upper leg just below the single blocks, e42 and e43. The blocks e42 - e45 are for the spritsail and spritsail topsail braces. The lines, after they pass through these blocks, come down and lead through the the blocks e1 - e4 on the bowsprit just forward of the gammoning. The blocks at the forestay should be slightly forward of the blocks at the bowsprit so that the lead of the lines is nearly vertical. The standing part for each brace is seized just above their respective blocks on the forestay. That should allow you to map out the whole mess. BTW, I have not found anything in the rigging plan that utilizes the two double blocks h2 and h3. I still do not know what their function is. If anyone knows, please give a shout out with the info. Also, in your previous post the tackles that you mentioned that you were going to "tackle" next are called mast tackles. I know, really creative naming. Regards, Henry
  9. popeye2sea
    This is one heck of a side project! I really like the wood decks. Regards, Henry
  10. popeye2sea
    Here is my thoughts on the main stay: The way that Heller suggests setting up the stay does not really work. There is a collar around the stem with the tackle to set up the stay and second collar around the fore mast which would actually prevent the tackle from being functional. You could not actually set up the stay. I intend to extend the mainstay collar so that the tackle comes abaft the fore mast. This allows the stay to be set up properly, and where the collar breaks over the beakhead bulkhead would not be a problem because the collar does not really move and chafe against the bulkhead. An extra piece of leather chafing gear at this location would suffice for any slight working of the line. This is also why I elected to move the fore knight over to starboard a bit. That gives me enough clearance for the main stay tackle to not foul the fore halliard. Regards, Henry
  11. popeye2sea
    The drift between the upper and lower deadeyes should be 2 times, or slightly more, of the diameter of the deadeyes. Regards, Henry
  12. popeye2sea
    For serving thread I have just been using standard all purpose sewing thread. Where I take my time to choose a good diameter of thread to use is when I am making seizings that will be particularly visible; like on shrouds. Regards, Henry
  13. popeye2sea
    Bill, Three holes only. Doubled thread passing from both sides. Drawn tight and wrapped around the eye. My futtock shrouds will be the served type shown above. That is how I make all my block strops, futtock staves, and shear poles. To answer your other question to Marc, if I may, I make my strops and futtocks completely from thread. I build up to the thickness I want by taking a number of turns around two hooks that are the proper distance apart. Then I serve over the whole thing to form a stave or strop with an eye on each end. If I then want to make a block strop I lash the two eyes together end to end and serve over the lashing. That makes a continuous loop that can be seized around a block. Or I can leave the eyes loose to pass around a spar to lash a block on to it. Regards, Henry
  14. popeye2sea
    Bill, I would put the strop of each deadeye through a hole in the top, then hook your futtock plate or chain into that and into a eyebolt installed into the bowsprit. I am going to try some seat of the pants engineering in order to try and set up the futtocks tightly. I will drill holes through the bowsprit where the futtock plates will hook in to. but instead of eye bolts I am going to pass some thick thread, doubled, through the holes. The futtock plates will hook into the loops and the long ends on the opposite sides can then be pulled tight to tension the assembly and then knotted off around the eye. Otherwise, it will be somewhat of a guessing game trying to get the lengths of the futtocks correct. All I should have to do is get them close to the right size. I hope you follow my meaning. Regards, Henry
  15. popeye2sea
    Great book. It's the bible for ships of this time period. Regards, Henry
  16. popeye2sea
    Spritsail Topmast. Regards, Henry
  17. popeye2sea
    Bruma, I doubt that they would use the short pole to hoist the flag. Rather, they would probably have a rope halyard that runs through a sheave in the truck at the top of the mast. One end of the rope has a snap hook or toggle that fastens to a ring or eye at the top of the flag. The other end has a ring or eye that takes the snap hook or toggle attached to the bottom of the flag. The halyard forms a continuous loop so that you can pull one leg to raise the flag and the other leg to lower it. Both legs of the halyard are then made fast around a convenient cleat or pin at deck level. If you do want to go with the short pole on the hoist of the flag, attach a ring about midway along the pole and another at the base. The halyard will attach to these two rings in the same manner as described above. Regards, Henry
  18. popeye2sea
    Bill, while that did secure the rack block to the gammoning, I was not pleased with the end result. It did not appear to be secure at all. My final solution was to drill a small hole through the tabs at the top and bottom of the rack block, then run the lashing through that hole and around the gammoning. It provided a lashing that is not likely to slip. Regards, Henry
  19. popeye2sea
    18th century fire starting: Tow makes great tinder for lighting a fire. After striking your spark with the flint and steel onto a piece of char cloth, you make a small nest of tow around the spark and a few puffs of air will ignite the tow and then you place that into your stack of small kindling. Regards, Henry
  20. popeye2sea
    I used a compass to scribe circles at the inside and outside diameter of the boot. Then I drilled out the center, and filed it to the inside line. After that I cut out the piece close to the outside line and again filed it to the scribed line. The quarter round moulding covers any imperfections in the inside diameter against the mast. The hardest part is bending the quarter round moulding to shape around the mast. Regards, Henry
  21. popeye2sea
    I will only re-use the mast caps. Everything else, including the circular hounds, are integral to the mast sections and will be incorporated into those sections. I will be re-designing the bases and fids to look more realistic. I answered you question about the mast coats following the query you posted in my build log. Regards, Henry
  22. popeye2sea
    My plan is to cut the mast sections flush with the caps. Then drill and re-use the caps, making my new top gallant masts from wood. I will also be making the top gallant cross trees that are very flimsy plastic. Regards, Henry
  23. popeye2sea
    They look great. Just make sure you orient your deadeye the other way around with the middle hole pointed towards the 'haft' of the strop. Regards, Henry
  24. popeye2sea
    According to the plans, 1669. But, if it is indeed actually a model of the second SR then 1692? Regards, Henry
  25. popeye2sea
    For my SR I am definitely making my own t'gallant masts from wood. I am still debating replacing the top masts. They seem sturdy enough but I am just not sure. I am not that concerned with the length of the top masts. As Marc mentioned, the French seemed to go for longer top masts. Regards, Henry

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