popeye2sea

The studding sail guy is a rope used to help support and steady the studding sail boom.  When the boom is swung out into position for spreading the foot of the lower studding sail the guy ropes run from near the outer end of the boom to points on the hull to steady it in position.  You could simply fit an eyebolt into the hull to take the end of the guy.  Or you could lead it onto the channel to belay there.
 
Regards

Here is what I used, based upon R.C. Anderson The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Sprtisail Topmast 1600 - 1720:
 
The rigging sizes all are figured relative to the main stay which has a circumference equal to half the maximum diameter of the main mast, so
42.76 inches mast diameter x 1/100 scale gives 0.43 in.  scale mast diameter
.043 / 2 gives a main stay circumference of 0.215 inches
0.215 / 3.14 gives a main stay diameter of 0.068 inches.
 
The closest line I had available is 0.08 inches (which may be a bit too large. 0.06 may be a better choice)
 
The following rules of thumb then apply (in order of size):
Fore stay = 4/5 of the main stay
Main shrouds and Main topmast stay = 1/2
Fore Shrouds, Fore topmast stay, Mizzen stay = 2/5
Main topmast and Mizzen shrouds = 1/4
Fore topmast shrouds, Mizzen Topmast stay and the two Topgallant stays 1/5
Shrouds for the last 3 = 1/6 
 
These following rules apply to the rest of the rigging but they are relative to their respective lines (this should become clear in the table below):
 
Mast tackle pendants = shrouds (i.e Main mast tackle pendants = the Main mast shroud diameter)
Shroud deadeye laniards = 1/2 the shroud
Stay collars = 3/4 of the stay
Tackle runners = 2/3 of their pendant
Tackle falls = 1/2 of their runner or pendant
Backstays = Shrouds
Tyes = Shrouds
Halyards = 2/3 of the Tye
Lifts = 3/8 of the shroud
Lift pendants = 1/2 shroud
Braces = 3/4 of the Brace pendant
Brace Pendant = 1/2 shroud
Deadeyes = 1/2 the diameter of the mast
Tacks = shroud
Sheet = 3/4 shroud
Clews = 1/2 of the sheet
Bowlines = 1/2 shroud
Leech lines = 1/3 shroud
Bunt lines = 1/3 shroud
 
Block length should be about 12 times the diameter of the rope and their sheeves should be about 9x the diameter of the rope
 
Hope that helps some.
 
Regards,
 

Here is what I used, based upon R.C. Anderson The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Sprtisail Topmast 1600 - 1720:
 
The rigging sizes all are figured relative to the main stay which has a circumference equal to half the maximum diameter of the main mast, so
42.76 inches mast diameter x 1/100 scale gives 0.43 in.  scale mast diameter
.043 / 2 gives a main stay circumference of 0.215 inches
0.215 / 3.14 gives a main stay diameter of 0.068 inches.
 
The closest line I had available is 0.08 inches (which may be a bit too large. 0.06 may be a better choice)
 
The following rules of thumb then apply (in order of size):
Fore stay = 4/5 of the main stay
Main shrouds and Main topmast stay = 1/2
Fore Shrouds, Fore topmast stay, Mizzen stay = 2/5
Main topmast and Mizzen shrouds = 1/4
Fore topmast shrouds, Mizzen Topmast stay and the two Topgallant stays 1/5
Shrouds for the last 3 = 1/6 
 
These following rules apply to the rest of the rigging but they are relative to their respective lines (this should become clear in the table below):
 
Mast tackle pendants = shrouds (i.e Main mast tackle pendants = the Main mast shroud diameter)
Shroud deadeye laniards = 1/2 the shroud
Stay collars = 3/4 of the stay
Tackle runners = 2/3 of their pendant
Tackle falls = 1/2 of their runner or pendant
Backstays = Shrouds
Tyes = Shrouds
Halyards = 2/3 of the Tye
Lifts = 3/8 of the shroud
Lift pendants = 1/2 shroud
Braces = 3/4 of the Brace pendant
Brace Pendant = 1/2 shroud
Deadeyes = 1/2 the diameter of the mast
Tacks = shroud
Sheet = 3/4 shroud
Clews = 1/2 of the sheet
Bowlines = 1/2 shroud
Leech lines = 1/3 shroud
Bunt lines = 1/3 shroud
 
Block length should be about 12 times the diameter of the rope and their sheeves should be about 9x the diameter of the rope
 
Hope that helps some.
 
Regards,
 

Here is what I used, based upon R.C. Anderson The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Sprtisail Topmast 1600 - 1720:
 
The rigging sizes all are figured relative to the main stay which has a circumference equal to half the maximum diameter of the main mast, so
42.76 inches mast diameter x 1/100 scale gives 0.43 in.  scale mast diameter
.043 / 2 gives a main stay circumference of 0.215 inches
0.215 / 3.14 gives a main stay diameter of 0.068 inches.
 
The closest line I had available is 0.08 inches (which may be a bit too large. 0.06 may be a better choice)
 
The following rules of thumb then apply (in order of size):
Fore stay = 4/5 of the main stay
Main shrouds and Main topmast stay = 1/2
Fore Shrouds, Fore topmast stay, Mizzen stay = 2/5
Main topmast and Mizzen shrouds = 1/4
Fore topmast shrouds, Mizzen Topmast stay and the two Topgallant stays 1/5
Shrouds for the last 3 = 1/6 
 
These following rules apply to the rest of the rigging but they are relative to their respective lines (this should become clear in the table below):
 
Mast tackle pendants = shrouds (i.e Main mast tackle pendants = the Main mast shroud diameter)
Shroud deadeye laniards = 1/2 the shroud
Stay collars = 3/4 of the stay
Tackle runners = 2/3 of their pendant
Tackle falls = 1/2 of their runner or pendant
Backstays = Shrouds
Tyes = Shrouds
Halyards = 2/3 of the Tye
Lifts = 3/8 of the shroud
Lift pendants = 1/2 shroud
Braces = 3/4 of the Brace pendant
Brace Pendant = 1/2 shroud
Deadeyes = 1/2 the diameter of the mast
Tacks = shroud
Sheet = 3/4 shroud
Clews = 1/2 of the sheet
Bowlines = 1/2 shroud
Leech lines = 1/3 shroud
Bunt lines = 1/3 shroud
 
Block length should be about 12 times the diameter of the rope and their sheeves should be about 9x the diameter of the rope
 
Hope that helps some.
 
Regards,
 

Here is what I used, based upon R.C. Anderson The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Sprtisail Topmast 1600 - 1720:
 
The rigging sizes all are figured relative to the main stay which has a circumference equal to half the maximum diameter of the main mast, so
42.76 inches mast diameter x 1/100 scale gives 0.43 in.  scale mast diameter
.043 / 2 gives a main stay circumference of 0.215 inches
0.215 / 3.14 gives a main stay diameter of 0.068 inches.
 
The closest line I had available is 0.08 inches (which may be a bit too large. 0.06 may be a better choice)
 
The following rules of thumb then apply (in order of size):
Fore stay = 4/5 of the main stay
Main shrouds and Main topmast stay = 1/2
Fore Shrouds, Fore topmast stay, Mizzen stay = 2/5
Main topmast and Mizzen shrouds = 1/4
Fore topmast shrouds, Mizzen Topmast stay and the two Topgallant stays 1/5
Shrouds for the last 3 = 1/6 
 
These following rules apply to the rest of the rigging but they are relative to their respective lines (this should become clear in the table below):
 
Mast tackle pendants = shrouds (i.e Main mast tackle pendants = the Main mast shroud diameter)
Shroud deadeye laniards = 1/2 the shroud
Stay collars = 3/4 of the stay
Tackle runners = 2/3 of their pendant
Tackle falls = 1/2 of their runner or pendant
Backstays = Shrouds
Tyes = Shrouds
Halyards = 2/3 of the Tye
Lifts = 3/8 of the shroud
Lift pendants = 1/2 shroud
Braces = 3/4 of the Brace pendant
Brace Pendant = 1/2 shroud
Deadeyes = 1/2 the diameter of the mast
Tacks = shroud
Sheet = 3/4 shroud
Clews = 1/2 of the sheet
Bowlines = 1/2 shroud
Leech lines = 1/3 shroud
Bunt lines = 1/3 shroud
 
Block length should be about 12 times the diameter of the rope and their sheeves should be about 9x the diameter of the rope
 
Hope that helps some.
 
Regards,
 

Here is what I used, based upon R.C. Anderson The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Sprtisail Topmast 1600 - 1720:
 
The rigging sizes all are figured relative to the main stay which has a circumference equal to half the maximum diameter of the main mast, so
42.76 inches mast diameter x 1/100 scale gives 0.43 in.  scale mast diameter
.043 / 2 gives a main stay circumference of 0.215 inches
0.215 / 3.14 gives a main stay diameter of 0.068 inches.
 
The closest line I had available is 0.08 inches (which may be a bit too large. 0.06 may be a better choice)
 
The following rules of thumb then apply (in order of size):
Fore stay = 4/5 of the main stay
Main shrouds and Main topmast stay = 1/2
Fore Shrouds, Fore topmast stay, Mizzen stay = 2/5
Main topmast and Mizzen shrouds = 1/4
Fore topmast shrouds, Mizzen Topmast stay and the two Topgallant stays 1/5
Shrouds for the last 3 = 1/6 
 
These following rules apply to the rest of the rigging but they are relative to their respective lines (this should become clear in the table below):
 
Mast tackle pendants = shrouds (i.e Main mast tackle pendants = the Main mast shroud diameter)
Shroud deadeye laniards = 1/2 the shroud
Stay collars = 3/4 of the stay
Tackle runners = 2/3 of their pendant
Tackle falls = 1/2 of their runner or pendant
Backstays = Shrouds
Tyes = Shrouds
Halyards = 2/3 of the Tye
Lifts = 3/8 of the shroud
Lift pendants = 1/2 shroud
Braces = 3/4 of the Brace pendant
Brace Pendant = 1/2 shroud
Deadeyes = 1/2 the diameter of the mast
Tacks = shroud
Sheet = 3/4 shroud
Clews = 1/2 of the sheet
Bowlines = 1/2 shroud
Leech lines = 1/3 shroud
Bunt lines = 1/3 shroud
 
Block length should be about 12 times the diameter of the rope and their sheeves should be about 9x the diameter of the rope
 
Hope that helps some.
 
Regards,
 

Hello everyone
Progression on the bow. Realization of different sculptures, horse's head on the crown of the herpes, rider leaning against the sea horse of the figurehead, Naiade behind the herpe.Figures and overview
Friendships Miche

That is an interesting article.  It does state that the common images of the flags as shown are probably from a more modern source , however it later states that some of them depict images as described in period sources.  
 
Regards,

That is an interesting article.  It does state that the common images of the flags as shown are probably from a more modern source , however it later states that some of them depict images as described in period sources.  
 
Regards,

You have to remember the purpose of a pirate ship. It was to make money by looting or taking other vessels.  It was not sensible to extensively damage or sink the other vessel unless they absolutely did not need it.  To that end most pirates actively cultivated a fierce persona and reputation to cow their prey into submission without having to fire a shot.  Gunpowder and shot was also a large expense item.  To that end many of them adopted their own flags so that they would be recognized and feared on first sighting.
 
The 'golden age' of piracy was in the early 1700's.  Some notable pirates of the time flew versions of the "Jolly Roger"  The first skull and crossbones motif appeared in 1700 when the French pirate Emanuel Wynne hoisted a black flag with a skull and crossbones over an hourglass to show his prey that time was running out. Thomas Tew flew a black flag with an arm holding a sword.  Jack Rackam had a skull and crossed swords. Bartholomew Roberts' showed a pirate and a skeleton holding a spear supporting an cup between them, drinking a toast to death.  Another flag of his showed himself standing on two skulls.  One labeled ABH (A Barbadian's Head) and the other AMH (A Martinican's Head).  Blackbeard, Edward Teach flew a black flag with a skeleton holding a a glass in one hand and a spear in the other which was aimed at a bleeding red heart.  Edward Low flew a black flag with a red skeleton.
 
Regards,

You have to remember the purpose of a pirate ship. It was to make money by looting or taking other vessels.  It was not sensible to extensively damage or sink the other vessel unless they absolutely did not need it.  To that end most pirates actively cultivated a fierce persona and reputation to cow their prey into submission without having to fire a shot.  Gunpowder and shot was also a large expense item.  To that end many of them adopted their own flags so that they would be recognized and feared on first sighting.
 
The 'golden age' of piracy was in the early 1700's.  Some notable pirates of the time flew versions of the "Jolly Roger"  The first skull and crossbones motif appeared in 1700 when the French pirate Emanuel Wynne hoisted a black flag with a skull and crossbones over an hourglass to show his prey that time was running out. Thomas Tew flew a black flag with an arm holding a sword.  Jack Rackam had a skull and crossed swords. Bartholomew Roberts' showed a pirate and a skeleton holding a spear supporting an cup between them, drinking a toast to death.  Another flag of his showed himself standing on two skulls.  One labeled ABH (A Barbadian's Head) and the other AMH (A Martinican's Head).  Blackbeard, Edward Teach flew a black flag with a skeleton holding a a glass in one hand and a spear in the other which was aimed at a bleeding red heart.  Edward Low flew a black flag with a red skeleton.
 
Regards,

I'm sorry, but I can't resist -
 
It's a Goldfish
 

I do the backstays last and use them to tighten everything up.

That is how it was done on the actual ships.
 
Regards,

That is how it was done on the actual ships.
 
Regards,

That is how it was done on the actual ships.
 
Regards,

Voila!
 

These are now clean and uniform enough to mount and make mould impressions from.  And then, I’ll just be making a ton of em!

Well, it was a delightful week away, spent entirely on the beach.  I didn’t get to any of the carving I thought I was going to do, though, but that is just as well;  I needed a break from everything.
 
Today, I carved the first of four fleur-de-lis that will make up my master for the frieze, and probably the lower battery port lids, as well.  And maybe even the middle battery ports, if they don’t seem too large.
 
Here’s what that looks like:


And one more shot against a clear ground:
If they all come out at least this well, I will be happy.
 

I have a height adjustable and tilt-able keyboard tray mounted under my work table.  It also slides out of the way when not in use.  When lowered all the way it yields a work surface about 5 - 6 inches lower than the table top.
 
Regards,

MAIN MAST ALIGNMENT.....
This photo was taken to visually check the vertical alignment of the Main Mast after rigging the first two shrouds.
Seen here, I used a plank laying across the lower rails with a framing square to check for perfect alignment.
I also used a plank laying across the fighting top to physically measure the distance of each side down to the channels.

Note....I will also be using a temporary stay line tied off to the bowsprit to physically hold the rake at 3.5 degrees as I proceed with rigging the remaining shrouds.

It's nice to see this phase finally begin, but I'm not real excited about it being one step closer to tying all those rat lines .....
(clove hitch, clove hitch, clove hitch, etc, etc...) 
 

Work on the port poop-royal railing continues.  I still have to clean up my dolphins.  In the meantime, though, I have made masters for my round port enhancements.
 
I laminated two pieces of .032" stock because I desired a somewhat more rounded relief.  The following series of pics pretty much tells the story:
 

These ornaments are so small that it is difficult to draw these little scrolls in a truly symmetrical fashion.  When faced with this circumstance, I always figure that I can round out the shapes better with the tools as long as the drawing is close:

Pretty good symmetry

Not shaped, yet, but placed to get a sense for the ornament

You can see that I was not able to carve both sides in exactly the same way.  I happen to like one more than the other, but I like both them well enough to use them as masters.  I will simply pair identical ornaments for each port, and alternate them from one port to the next.  Here they are, in the vertical, so that you can see them in a different raking light.  I may also shorten the "neck" that abuts the port frame, when I do the installation.

 

Work on a number of aspects of the upper bulwarks continues.  Having freed the round-port enhancements from their backgrounds, I have begun inletting them into the forward upper bulwarks.
 
There has been some discussion on Doris’s build log for the Royal Katherine about the merits of sculptung each ornament, individually, versus casting repetitive ornaments.  Consencus, there, has been that making each ornament individually, with the inherent small variations in execution, contributes toward the unique and handmade character of the finished model.  I also agree with this.
 
What I have found with the casting process, on the other hand, is that these castings require a significant amount of cleanup and rework so that - in the case of these round port enhancements, for example - the tiny scrolls are identifiably small scrolls.  In the end, though, all of this re-work results in each ornament being slightly different in size and shape.
 
With this in mind, I cast an extra four pairs of port enhancements so that I could mix and match similarly sized and shaped pairs, using only the best of what is available to me.
 


So far, this seems to be working out well for me.  These pictures are illustrative of a number of things.  First of all, the ornament I ended up carving is not what I originally drew; the original intent was a tiny tulip flower nestled between the scrolls.  At this scale, I found that extremely difficult to draw, let alone carve.  Simplified fleur-de-lis seemed a reasonable compromise.
 
The other challenge, here, was letting the enhancements into the sheer rail.  This required, first marking the lower scroll onto the white timberhead stile with a sharp knife.  Leveling the waste area of the stile down to the timberhead surface.  Then, finally, lightly scribing the upper scroll into the sheer rail with a sharp EXACTO, while holding the ornament in place with your thumb.  A small round DREMEL burr is then used to waste away for the upper scroll head.  Challenging, but doable.
 
So, that’s where I’m at for now.  There are still many more of these to place.  I still have work to do on my dolphins, and my port poop-royal railing is almost complete.
 

A fascinating and relatively unknown piece of history.
 
Regards,

And there went New Ireland.
 

Another tidbit of history that I either never knew, or long ago forgot.
50-50 odds on which of those.....