Blue Ensign

David, the basic Fly and Pegasus hulls are the same, it's only in the detailing that the kits differ.
There is quite a steep but graceful curve of the stern timbers running up to the counter and this is all down to fairing. There should not be a sharp break of the timbers at the last but one bulkhead.
From what I see the angle you have is just too sharp to achieve a decent result and I can't see how sanding and filling are going to resolve this issue.
I would be tempted to cut back the planking at the fourth bulkhead from aft, and  re-fair the bulkheads running up the  stern counter.
Without a reasonable base on which to apply the second planking, problems down the road are going to be encountered.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Welcome to the Swan Club David, after your superb  Revenge build I don’t think Fly will present you with too many problems, enjoy this pretty little Sloop.
 
B.E.

Oarlocks painted and installed. I used strips of tape cut to 3/32” wide to space them evenly.
 
After installation I realize that the vertical posts need to be filed down a bit. 
Steve

I have used Modelspan which is the same thing, excellent stuff particularly at smaller scales, also good for flags and ensigns.
I used it on my 1:150 French Seventy-0four build.
 
B.E.

Detail shots of the completed model


Long boat with the sheep pens beneath.
 

Activity on the Qtr deck, the crew are converted ‘N’ scale rail figures.
 

Poop deck detail.
 

 

Crew ascending the Main shrouds.
 

Fore deck detail.
 

Crew at the Fore Topmast head.
 

 

Head details.
 


 

 

Stern Qtr details.
 
 
Full shots of the model
 


 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Secure in her protective case.
 
I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.
 
I am much more comfortable with 1:64 scale, as with my current Pegasus build.

B.E.


 


 


 
 
 
 
 


 



 
 
 


 


 


 
 


 


 
 


 


 


 


 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Thanks for kind words everyone, welcome back Nigel, and welcome Ian and channel.
 
Mini update on a few things, think pictures are most useful.  I saw reference to a 3D printing service somewhere else on this site (Shapeways.com) and specifically one of the 'shops' on that site Model Monkey, so wanted to give it a try.  They offer a few items in 1:64 directly taken from the AOTS Diana book and offered to 3D print.  You could browse for hours through all the items offered, but here is the most helpful link for 1:64 scale offerings, these can also be made in a variety of scales. (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F64+Scale&s=0)
 
Intrigued I ordered a few items, stove and upper and lower capstans.  Out of the packet, these are translucent and it recommended to soak these, brush gently with soapy water to remove oil residue and then expose to sunlight to chemically harden - I did 2 days.  I ordered the 'Frosted Extreme Detail' which is slightly more expensive but apparently a more true print.  With an initial coat of Tamiya arcrylic grey primer the surface texture is easier to see, and the layered structure is quite visible.  I set to work on the stove and sprayed again with a matt black undercoat before finishing with the Tamiya Dark Iron.  After a number of coats, the surface texture is less apparent and really only then in lighting scenarios from above that are unlikely in the finished model.  I was reluctant to try any sort of 'sanding' as the material seems quite soft.  
 

 
With a little bit of extra work on the stove base (evergreen sheet) I think the result compares favourably to the kit supplied parts.  Overall, the proportions look more accurate (as one would expect), and the front and rear of the stove much better represent the prototype features.  I could easily see that someone could to get a better finish and detail some more but I'm leaving as is, at least for now considering what will be visible in the finished model.  The other benefit is that this barely weighs anything, the white metal stove parts provided are really quite heavy and would need to be well secured.
 
Considering the finish, I'm leaning toward using the printed lower capstan as this will only be partially visible, and provides a reasonably detailed proxy with minimal work.   This will save some time to focus on other much more visible aspects of the build and I'm Ok with 'cheating' on this item.  The upper capstan I'm less sure about, and will likely construct my own as I don't think the finish is up to close scrutiny.
 
The bottom picture highlights this for direct comparison.  The matte black undercoat on the lower capstan shoes direct comparison the "dark iron" and the way that this colour compliments nicely in my view chemically blackened metal (barrel appears overly shiny!).
 


 
Luckily I did not need to rebuild the aft bitts as the stove fit perfectly - lucky that I'd used the estimated AOTS dimensions when these were built.
 

 
In other news...work on the cannons continues slowly: these are all near the point for further detailing and hardware as structural elements are complete.  Each has been allocated its specific location and in some case the bottom of the trucks reduce slightly to ensure good seating on the deck.  Quoins were individually placed to help ensure all barrels form a smooth line when viewed from the exterior.
 

 

Fabulous photo's of some great progress Jason, and that 'iron' paint looks spot on. 
 
B.E.

Oarlocks are virtually completed. Very delicate work. I followed Chuck’s method of filing and shaping from a longer 3/32” strip. For the vertical pieces I used a 1/16” x 1/32” strip since I did not have 1/32” x 1/32” in maple. After these were glued I sanded them down to the correct scale.
 
The below photo shows a dry fit. Undecided if these will be painted.  Any thoughts? They still need to be cleaned up a bit. 
Steve

Prepped for paint. 
Steve

Looks beautiful Rusty, those friezes really pop out against the inboard colour.
Incidentally my kit arrived today and altho’ I won’t start it until Cheerful is nearing completion, your log will provide me with a useful reference guide. 
 
B.E.

Looks beautiful Rusty, those friezes really pop out against the inboard colour.
Incidentally my kit arrived today and altho’ I won’t start it until Cheerful is nearing completion, your log will provide me with a useful reference guide. 
 
B.E.

A wealth of beautifully executed detail Thomas, a very fine model indeed. 
 
B.E.
 

The maple step installed. Still plenty left to do: oarlocks, “iron” protective strap, rudder, flying transom, oars, boat hook, possible barrels, and a display stand. 
Steve

Big improvement on the carriages Peter, I don't know what period/origin Amati based their carriages on but they don't represent any style I've ever seen on British ships. The additions to the guns all help to add authenticity to the overall effect. 
 
B.E.
 

Big improvement on the carriages Peter, I don't know what period/origin Amati based their carriages on but they don't represent any style I've ever seen on British ships. The additions to the guns all help to add authenticity to the overall effect. 
 
B.E.
 

Fabulous photo's of some great progress Jason, and that 'iron' paint looks spot on. 
 
B.E.

Big improvement on the carriages Peter, I don't know what period/origin Amati based their carriages on but they don't represent any style I've ever seen on British ships. The additions to the guns all help to add authenticity to the overall effect. 
 
B.E.
 

I do hope so Mike
 
B.E.

I have to admit you've got a point Martin, Head-works and also Stern galleries are tricky little beasts; fortunately On Cheerful there is neither, but there is the mystery of the Square Tuck which may well  involve a spot of tooth sucking and grinding, we'll see. 
 
B.E.

Thank you Bob, Grant, Michael, Martin, Steve, and Christian.
 
So this build is completed after a leisurely five month exercise.
The final item to make the base board and hull supports.

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For the base I have used a plain piece of Boxwood sheet of 3mm thickness with slightly chamfered edges.

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 You may recognise what I enlisted into service for the supports.
 

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For a change I made a greater effort for the final photo shoot.
 
and here are the results.

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1056.
Thoughts on the Pinnace kit.
My thanks go to Chuck for designing this fine kit and giving us modellers the opportunity to build a nicely scaled model of an iconic 18th c boat.
This is a fine little model but a sod to plank, although I did use rather thin Boxwood strip which allowed a very small margin for sanding corrections .
The supplied basswood is not really suitable for a model of this single planked type being too soft and feathery to get clean edges. I did replace much of the wood with my stock Boxwood and were I to do it again I would use Boxwood overall albeit of a somewhat thicker strip for the exterior planking, allowing me a little more leeway for my planking deficiencies.
I wasn't too happy with my work at the outset but as the build progressed and I got into the detail I eased up on myself somewhat, a model is more than the sum of its parts, and although I don't rate it as one of my best efforts, I do rather like the look of it outside of the prying eye of the macro lens.
This has been a nice little five month summer project, not entirely relaxing, but with a satisfying result, and it has wetted my appetite for Chuck's forthcoming Barge kit.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

First step on our way to complete the running rigging. The sprit boom is up 😊. Don't ask how many times I attached it to the bowsprit,  though. Today I was so frustrated that I tore it down one more time, adjusted the martingales and now I am happy with the result. Dad is busy winding  the white ropes for the running rigging. 

I have to admit you've got a point Martin, Head-works and also Stern galleries are tricky little beasts; fortunately On Cheerful there is neither, but there is the mystery of the Square Tuck which may well  involve a spot of tooth sucking and grinding, we'll see. 
 
B.E.

Fabulous photo's of some great progress Jason, and that 'iron' paint looks spot on. 
 
B.E.

Hi HH,
I think Modelspan would be just fine to kit the Soleil Royale out with sails.

Here's an example of I think Tissue paper used on a Soleil Royale model completed some years ago by a fellow modeller (Michael D)on a  different forum.
Modelspan would be an even better option because of it's better surface finish and inherent greater strength.
 
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Thanks Dave and Ian, I'll check out those options.
 
Post 26
Completing the first belt.
As I progress with strakes seven and eight, there seems to be quite a sweep down in the tapering from B/h H to the stem, with more acute edge bending required.

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I also have to get more inventive with my clamping methods.

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It helps to have a range of clamping devices to hand.
The planks are glued progressively along the hull starting at the bow ensuring the first three or four bulkhead points are well glued before moving on.
Using a high quality pva glue there is sufficient 'grab' after around 20 minutes to move on.

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I use this period to start preparing the strakes for the other side.

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The last strake goes in.

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So after eight days at the work bench the belt is completed.
 
Needs a good sanding and scraping, but I'll leave that until the hull planking is fully completed. The Wales and the Port linings have also suffered during the process but that was to be expected.
 
Taking a short break now before I return to tackle the Square Tuck - what joy.
 
B.E
 
26/04 /2018