Blue Ensign

Cheers Guys, 
Work begins cutting out the replacement stem and keel in Boxwood. The kit parts provide the templates.

1076
The false keel is prepped  with the bearding  lines cut in and the 'false' rabbet carried up to the stem.
One of the problems I found with the Pinnace kit was the softness of the Basswood stem, making it susceptible to dinks and scarring.

1077
The false keel is fairly fragile and I managed to break off the top part whilst trial fitting the stem. At least the Boxwood stem will be more robust than the Basswood version.
This is the time to also renew my sanding sticks and prepare a simple building board to secure the keel.
 
B.E.
 

Cheers Guys, 
Work begins cutting out the replacement stem and keel in Boxwood. The kit parts provide the templates.

1076
The false keel is prepped  with the bearding  lines cut in and the 'false' rabbet carried up to the stem.
One of the problems I found with the Pinnace kit was the softness of the Basswood stem, making it susceptible to dinks and scarring.

1077
The false keel is fairly fragile and I managed to break off the top part whilst trial fitting the stem. At least the Boxwood stem will be more robust than the Basswood version.
This is the time to also renew my sanding sticks and prepare a simple building board to secure the keel.
 
B.E.
 

Sizing the small Fore-deck made me scratch my head a little, it is relevant because it will govern the positions of the other thwarts and according to the plan should result in the fifth thwart sitting just over the forward edge of the aft platform.

9657
I notched my Foredeck to fit around the much reduced false keel at the bow which runs up to the stem, and extends just short of halfway between the second and third frames.

9658
The first of the Thwarts butts against this Foredeck.
For the Thwarts I used the provided Limewood, veneered with 0.7mm Boxwood strip and the overall thickness then reduced to size.

9661
I also made a spacer jig similar to that used by Mike4B in his build.
I would suggest that this is a useful item to ensure correct spacing of the Thwarts.

9665

9664

9663

9666
The Thwarts apart from the first one are not yet fixed, I will do that once the seat back has been installed and a little interior fettlin' is completed.
B.E.
 
 

Gromit was right to question the remaining space to take two strakes.
It proved to be too tight to take two reasonably tapered planks; one to be the sixth plank from the top, and one spiled plank running just below the curve of the hull to complete the planking.
My approach was to perform an insitu taper to the uppermost lower plank (fourth from keel) to equalise the  necessary taper at the bow.

8886
Here the sixth strakes are fitted, leaving just the final spiled strake to be fitted.

8891

8892
This is a very interesting shape but at the bow and stern the widths are not out of kilter with the other planks. Most of the length is otherwise obscured by the curve of the hull.

8897
To get the spiled shape I stick Tamiya tape over the space and cut the shape out with a scalpel.
This is then applied to a strip which is then wetted and cut out allowing a margin for fitting.

8900
The rather contorted shape of the final plank.
It is all then down to sanding the edge to fit; I start with the widest section, mark the position on both the plank and the planks above and below it, and by degrees fine tune the edges to fit in the gap.

8898
This is not difficult but takes time with constant fit checking.
For this last strip both edges are lined to reflect the caulking.
So here's the hull complete but without the very necessary fettlin' that will be required.

8904

8908

8913
At this point I also added the stern post, but I replaced the provided kit part with a Boxwood version.

8915
Once again one of the annoying little sheer plank extensions snapped off during handling, I have glued it back on but I think I will add a back-up strip behind it to make it more robust.
If that fails, the bally things will be removed permanently.
Time now for tidying up, scraping the hull, and 're-caulking' where necessary.
Can't say I'm entirely happy with the way things have gone thus far but work will proceed.
 
B.E.

The Garboard planks are now fitted.

8515

8516
For these I used straight strip shaped by reference to how Chuck's  build appeared to look in his photo's with the end just extending beyond the scarf joint in the keel.
This has to be done in conjunction with the one above it, before it can be glued into place.

8513
Working the strake above the Garboard.
 
A fair bit of fiddling about here.

8518
There is a severe curve at the bow end to go around the Garboard and fit into the rabbet at the stem.
This was formed from around the centre of a much longer piece of strip, to get the necessary curve.

8526
Once I was happy the two planks would match, the Garboard was glued into place.

8533
Port side  bottom strakes fitted. The second strake is also full size without any tapering.
I think I've achieved the objective of keeping the second plank from creeping upwards at the stem.

8534

8529
Only wet and dry heat was used to  form the shapes.

8532
The stern section of the strakes also untapered was problem free in fitting.

8537
 I now need to work out the required tapers for the intervening planks. I will then work from both top and bottom.
 
B.E.

Thanks Chuck, I have taken your advice, and thanks for the very useful 'Barge' pdf.
So the top sheer planks are replaced.

7846
Full size strips, dry heat curved after wetting to align with the bulkhead tops. This is quite a gentle curve from around the mid point with a slightly more upward sweep aft from the centre.

7851
This time I have shaped a balsa block to temporarily protect the plank extensions for the decorative transom.
That's the easy bit!
The second plank below the sheer plank I have also fitted untapered, but have used the water/dry heat method to create the 'S' shape as shown below.

7822
This time I started the curve much further back in a longer length of strip.

7826
The downward curve is quite severe at the bow.

7859
So Grommit what d'ye think of it so far. hmmn not too impressed eh.
 
Time for a break I think and a trip down to Dorsetshire.
 
B.E.

With the fairing completed the stern transom is added.

7026
This has very little to hold it securely at least until the first strakes are added, so I also drilled and pinned it to the false keel.
Even so very soft hands are required to fair the transom piece.
As a trial  I am using 0.6mm thick Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Limewood.

7033
The sheer strake is applied full width.
PVA is used to bond the strip to the b/heads, secured with an assortment of clamps.

7032

7051
 Water and heat are used to bend the strip both laterally to follow the rise of the sheer, and to curve around the bow.

7053

7058

7055
The foremost Bulkhead K  rises above the sheer line.

7060
The Sheerline strake extends beyond the transom.
When I made the mini version for Pegasus I omitted the second decorative transom piece, still not sure what practical purpose, if any, this addition served, but as they were a feature of the 18th Century Pinnace, I will include it on this build.
 
Once the glue has hardened overnight I will add the next strake, and then make a decision whether to continue with the Boxwood, or remove and revert to the Limewood.

7038
C'mon ain't you spent enough time on that today.
 
B.E.

Non-stop BE!!! Way to go, and we're all here eagerly watching.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Yes!
Steve

Looking forward to watching another masterpiece evolve B.E. 

Definitely looking forward to another great one!

looking forward to this one

18th Century English Longboat by Blue Ensign - MS 1:48 Scale.
The second of the Model shipways kits which I am moving straight onto whilst I'm in the mood, and hoping to improve on my Pinnace build.
As with the Pinnace I have 'previous' with this kit having already scratched a 1:64 scale version for my Pegasus build, from Chuck's plans.

1083

057
It was quite small with an hull length just shy of 4" so one might think a larger kit should prove easier. Not necessarily, I found I had more trouble with the 1:24 scale kit Pinnace than the scratched 1:64 version.
I will use the kit provided false keel and bulkheads, but this time around I will replace the stem and keel with Boxwood. My aim is to otherwise not use any of the provided kit wood.
The hull will be planked with Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Basswood, but this should be less problematic on the smaller Longboat than it proved to be on the much larger Pinnace.
I now need to get the preparatory work done before I start assembly.
 
B.E.

Love that Binnacle cabinet Bob, a fine piece of joinery. 
 
B.E.

18th Century English Longboat by Blue Ensign - MS 1:48 Scale.
The second of the Model shipways kits which I am moving straight onto whilst I'm in the mood, and hoping to improve on my Pinnace build.
As with the Pinnace I have 'previous' with this kit having already scratched a 1:64 scale version for my Pegasus build, from Chuck's plans.

1083

057
It was quite small with an hull length just shy of 4" so one might think a larger kit should prove easier. Not necessarily, I found I had more trouble with the 1:24 scale kit Pinnace than the scratched 1:64 version.
I will use the kit provided false keel and bulkheads, but this time around I will replace the stem and keel with Boxwood. My aim is to otherwise not use any of the provided kit wood.
The hull will be planked with Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Basswood, but this should be less problematic on the smaller Longboat than it proved to be on the much larger Pinnace.
I now need to get the preparatory work done before I start assembly.
 
B.E.

18th Century English Longboat by Blue Ensign - MS 1:48 Scale.
The second of the Model shipways kits which I am moving straight onto whilst I'm in the mood, and hoping to improve on my Pinnace build.
As with the Pinnace I have 'previous' with this kit having already scratched a 1:64 scale version for my Pegasus build, from Chuck's plans.

1083

057
It was quite small with an hull length just shy of 4" so one might think a larger kit should prove easier. Not necessarily, I found I had more trouble with the 1:24 scale kit Pinnace than the scratched 1:64 version.
I will use the kit provided false keel and bulkheads, but this time around I will replace the stem and keel with Boxwood. My aim is to otherwise not use any of the provided kit wood.
The hull will be planked with Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Basswood, but this should be less problematic on the smaller Longboat than it proved to be on the much larger Pinnace.
I now need to get the preparatory work done before I start assembly.
 
B.E.

Love the photo's of your build Michael, although not intended, that last photo could so easily be a depiction of 'battle' damage, dislodged woodwork, and a jumble of rigging, looks very realistic.
 
B.E.

18th Century English Longboat by Blue Ensign - MS 1:48 Scale.
The second of the Model shipways kits which I am moving straight onto whilst I'm in the mood, and hoping to improve on my Pinnace build.
As with the Pinnace I have 'previous' with this kit having already scratched a 1:64 scale version for my Pegasus build, from Chuck's plans.

1083

057
It was quite small with an hull length just shy of 4" so one might think a larger kit should prove easier. Not necessarily, I found I had more trouble with the 1:24 scale kit Pinnace than the scratched 1:64 version.
I will use the kit provided false keel and bulkheads, but this time around I will replace the stem and keel with Boxwood. My aim is to otherwise not use any of the provided kit wood.
The hull will be planked with Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Basswood, but this should be less problematic on the smaller Longboat than it proved to be on the much larger Pinnace.
I now need to get the preparatory work done before I start assembly.
 
B.E.

Love the photo's of your build Michael, although not intended, that last photo could so easily be a depiction of 'battle' damage, dislodged woodwork, and a jumble of rigging, looks very realistic.
 
B.E.

Love that Binnacle cabinet Bob, a fine piece of joinery. 
 
B.E.

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks so much for your comments, and likes – all so nice of you.
 
Working from three sets of plans creates continued confusion (Corel, Billings, and Vasa Museum).
Anyway I was going to remove the upper main sail to give it bit of ironing. It was much too creased compared to the others. Glad that I had not buttoned down and glued the parrel ropes into place.
Then as I was reinstalling-  it struck me that It was missing blocks with which to attach ropes from the main top gallant sail to the upper yard. Then went back to another plan and saw what the problem was.
=========================
Then going back to the foremast trying to visualize pin and anchor locations for shrouds from the installed sails – tried to loop one rope through one of those four blocks that I had attached to the grating frame and grrrr- realized that I had not pre-enlarged the block holes.
 
So- trying to “remove” that grating frame with a “pop” ended up detaching that white railing and then the tool dropped and fell onto that canon carriage; easy fixes but part of the process apologies for just droning on with this post.
 
The lower main sail is next up.
 
Regards,

Hi Mates
 
Minor detail update.
 
Worked out a "plan" to make the fore lower appear as if the parrels are "functional"
When all buttoned up it will be like this.
 
PS: Frank thanks for sharing - happy not to be the Lone Ranger.
 
Cheers,

 
 

Hi Mates,
 Martyn, – so very nice of you thanks -- overwhelming !!
 
Patrick, Denis, Frank –thanks for your comments so appreciated as well.
 
And mates thanks for hitting the likes – so nice of you to click your thoughts as well
 
Continuing with the lower main. So it’s furled and almost ready for attaching to the mast.
 
I was looking at Anderson regarding the parrels and decided to challenge myself for this and the lower main mast, coming up next.
I will run a center parrel rope (only on one side) to simulate it as a working item. Will run the rope through that small block and run it to the weather deck.
 
Where it should be attached is not clear. I may also add another set of blocks to the end of the rope as noted on Anderson’s drawing. Fiddle blocks  - no - just a couple of single blocks and then a cleat at the deck next to the mast.
Probably overkill – but since all of the lower sails are furled this might be a nice bit of extra work that I will be happy about.
Anderson writes that he has problems with this particular set up – but so it goes. Parrel ropes certainly needed to allow for adjustments as a mast was lowered given the increase in mast diameter as a yard was lowered.
 
PS: I have noticed a BIG mistake that I have been making using tarred rope to attach some blocks to yards and sails. That said I just want to stay consistent in my errors for these bits. Grrrr.
 
Now for the really hard part -- installing the yard 
 
Regards,

 

E.J,.
 
Yes sails do add a nice finishing touch. That said get ready to spend a lot, lot of extra time with your build. They (sails) are filled with added work – much more than I had anticipated. Making the sails is easy compared with mounting and rigging them.
 
Not regretting this by any means. But I can work for hours and seem to get nothing done beyond preparing blocks, ropes and knots for one sail (;-) then trying to mount them to their respective masts along with all of the lines and ropes hanging limp to be secured later; so far so good. If I might suggest for your next build find a kit that comes with sail/rigging plans as part of the kit (mine did not). You will be glad that you took the challenge. I’m glad that I am. Thanks for your nice post 
 
In the aggregate it will be so worth the effort. My Santa Maria from so long ago was a walk in the park compared  to this build.
 
Cheers,

Congratulatios B.E.,
This is an awesome model, a real gem, and very well built...
 
Nils