Blue Ensign

Cheers Guys, 😊
 
Hi Christan, unfortunately this is single planking with much fining down of the frames internally once the planking is completed. Not much room to hide things on this build.
 
Surely does concentrate the mind knowing that you don't have a second bite of the cherry with second planking, or a third with coppering. 😬
 
B.E.
 

The Garboard planks are now fitted.

8515

8516
For these I used straight strip shaped by reference to how Chuck's  build appeared to look in his photo's with the end just extending beyond the scarf joint in the keel.
This has to be done in conjunction with the one above it, before it can be glued into place.

8513
Working the strake above the Garboard.
 
A fair bit of fiddling about here.

8518
There is a severe curve at the bow end to go around the Garboard and fit into the rabbet at the stem.
This was formed from around the centre of a much longer piece of strip, to get the necessary curve.

8526
Once I was happy the two planks would match, the Garboard was glued into place.

8533
Port side  bottom strakes fitted. The second strake is also full size without any tapering.
I think I've achieved the objective of keeping the second plank from creeping upwards at the stem.

8534

8529
Only wet and dry heat was used to  form the shapes.

8532
The stern section of the strakes also untapered was problem free in fitting.

8537
 I now need to work out the required tapers for the intervening planks. I will then work from both top and bottom.
 
B.E.

The Garboard planks are now fitted.

8515

8516
For these I used straight strip shaped by reference to how Chuck's  build appeared to look in his photo's with the end just extending beyond the scarf joint in the keel.
This has to be done in conjunction with the one above it, before it can be glued into place.

8513
Working the strake above the Garboard.
 
A fair bit of fiddling about here.

8518
There is a severe curve at the bow end to go around the Garboard and fit into the rabbet at the stem.
This was formed from around the centre of a much longer piece of strip, to get the necessary curve.

8526
Once I was happy the two planks would match, the Garboard was glued into place.

8533
Port side  bottom strakes fitted. The second strake is also full size without any tapering.
I think I've achieved the objective of keeping the second plank from creeping upwards at the stem.

8534

8529
Only wet and dry heat was used to  form the shapes.

8532
The stern section of the strakes also untapered was problem free in fitting.

8537
 I now need to work out the required tapers for the intervening planks. I will then work from both top and bottom.
 
B.E.

The Garboard planks are now fitted.

8515

8516
For these I used straight strip shaped by reference to how Chuck's  build appeared to look in his photo's with the end just extending beyond the scarf joint in the keel.
This has to be done in conjunction with the one above it, before it can be glued into place.

8513
Working the strake above the Garboard.
 
A fair bit of fiddling about here.

8518
There is a severe curve at the bow end to go around the Garboard and fit into the rabbet at the stem.
This was formed from around the centre of a much longer piece of strip, to get the necessary curve.

8526
Once I was happy the two planks would match, the Garboard was glued into place.

8533
Port side  bottom strakes fitted. The second strake is also full size without any tapering.
I think I've achieved the objective of keeping the second plank from creeping upwards at the stem.

8534

8529
Only wet and dry heat was used to  form the shapes.

8532
The stern section of the strakes also untapered was problem free in fitting.

8537
 I now need to work out the required tapers for the intervening planks. I will then work from both top and bottom.
 
B.E.

The Garboard planks are now fitted.

8515

8516
For these I used straight strip shaped by reference to how Chuck's  build appeared to look in his photo's with the end just extending beyond the scarf joint in the keel.
This has to be done in conjunction with the one above it, before it can be glued into place.

8513
Working the strake above the Garboard.
 
A fair bit of fiddling about here.

8518
There is a severe curve at the bow end to go around the Garboard and fit into the rabbet at the stem.
This was formed from around the centre of a much longer piece of strip, to get the necessary curve.

8526
Once I was happy the two planks would match, the Garboard was glued into place.

8533
Port side  bottom strakes fitted. The second strake is also full size without any tapering.
I think I've achieved the objective of keeping the second plank from creeping upwards at the stem.

8534

8529
Only wet and dry heat was used to  form the shapes.

8532
The stern section of the strakes also untapered was problem free in fitting.

8537
 I now need to work out the required tapers for the intervening planks. I will then work from both top and bottom.
 
B.E.

That fairing business.
The temporary bracing I have employed is keeping the frames rock solid for fairing.
Early check reveals that several b/hds needed shims to give a fair run along the hull. A little surprised by this but some 0.6mm boxwood strip sorts the job out.
In total I have shimmed two on the portside and four on larboard, but now along the sheer at least there is a fair run.
Not one of my favourite pastimes fairing, seems to take forever, even on a small project such as this, just when you think you have it right another hollow reveals itself.

6941
Not first planking but a boxwood strip to check out the fairing at sheer line level.

6938
one of the benefits of the notched  bracing strips is that it provides an anchor for the clamps.

6942
Speaking of boxwood I do have a good supply of Boxwood strip 4.50mm x 0.6mm plus several other wider sizes.
The kit provides Limewood strip for the outer planking 3/16" x 1/32" (4.76mm x 0.79mm) In practice the thickness is closer to 0.70mm =0.66"
My 0.6mm boxwood strips at 1:24 scale = 0.57" a tad finer than the kit provided stuff.
 
Limewood is a very soft wood normally used for first planking on double planked hull and I'm a little concerned about dinks and getting a smooth finish.
So the question is should I go with the limewood or would the slightly thinner Boxwood be ok. Hmmn something to ponder.
According to Steel, the timbers for a 21' Pinnace are 1½" thick equiv to 1.59mm at 1:24 scale.
 
Back to fairing for the moment.
 
B.E.
 

Thanks Chuck, I have taken your advice, and thanks for the very useful 'Barge' pdf.
So the top sheer planks are replaced.

7846
Full size strips, dry heat curved after wetting to align with the bulkhead tops. This is quite a gentle curve from around the mid point with a slightly more upward sweep aft from the centre.

7851
This time I have shaped a balsa block to temporarily protect the plank extensions for the decorative transom.
That's the easy bit!
The second plank below the sheer plank I have also fitted untapered, but have used the water/dry heat method to create the 'S' shape as shown below.

7822
This time I started the curve much further back in a longer length of strip.

7826
The downward curve is quite severe at the bow.

7859
So Grommit what d'ye think of it so far. hmmn not too impressed eh.
 
Time for a break I think and a trip down to Dorsetshire.
 
B.E.

Thanks Nils and Steve.
I did edge glue the planks Nils, the caulking still showed thro.
There seems to be a limit to the edge bending with the Boxwood strip I am using Steve, and the downward  bend over the first three bulkheads is just too severe without some buckling and within the limits of the 4mm wide strip the bottom edges just will not lie flat against the bulkhead at the lower edge.
Shims would constantly have to be added with each successive strake on that basis, which is just not right.
So, it's back to the drawing board.

7590

7592
After several days and much frustration I have decided to remove the first two strakes and start again. This will also allow me to re-instate the planking to take the decorative second transom which I snapped off earlier. Fortunately the planks came away without damaging the bulkheads.
 
The topmost sheer plank will again be fitted full size, and this does not really present any problems.
 
The second and subsequent planks however will be spiled to shape to hopefully allow the plank to sit flat on bulkheads I. J. and K.
 
Round two....
 
B.E.
 

The Garboard planks are now fitted.

8515

8516
For these I used straight strip shaped by reference to how Chuck's  build appeared to look in his photo's with the end just extending beyond the scarf joint in the keel.
This has to be done in conjunction with the one above it, before it can be glued into place.

8513
Working the strake above the Garboard.
 
A fair bit of fiddling about here.

8518
There is a severe curve at the bow end to go around the Garboard and fit into the rabbet at the stem.
This was formed from around the centre of a much longer piece of strip, to get the necessary curve.

8526
Once I was happy the two planks would match, the Garboard was glued into place.

8533
Port side  bottom strakes fitted. The second strake is also full size without any tapering.
I think I've achieved the objective of keeping the second plank from creeping upwards at the stem.

8534

8529
Only wet and dry heat was used to  form the shapes.

8532
The stern section of the strakes also untapered was problem free in fitting.

8537
 I now need to work out the required tapers for the intervening planks. I will then work from both top and bottom.
 
B.E.

Coming along beautifully Bob, very nice work.
 
B.E.

Thanks Jason,
 
I'm back from  Dorsetshire now and ready to do battle with the Garboard plank and the one above it.
Ideally I want to get these two fitted  and then work out the plank tapers for the ones in between working both up and down to infill.
 
B.E.
 
 

Hi Michael, I'm not referring to Footropes or horses as slung below the yards, but the complicated crowsfeet arrangements fitted to many  stays on ships of the 17th century. The crowsfeet that are fitted to the tops of 18th century ships were the last remaining vestige of the use of crowsfeet which died out towards the start of the 19th century.
 
The sort of attachments shown in your last photo above would I believe be classed as crowsfeet, but a prime example of their use in 17c ships would be the Spritsail Topmast backstays, certainly on English and Dutch ships, where very fancy set ups were the order of the day.
 
The Martnets (or Leechlines) were also of a similar form, and may benefit from some stiffening assistance to get them to look right.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Great progress Christian, she is looking splendid. 😊
 
B.E.
 

Great progress Christian, she is looking splendid. 😊
 
B.E.
 

and finally part 3 of 3

Part 2 of 3

Hi Folks, running rigging almost completed (dolphin striker and yet lot of trimming to do), lots of pics are to come
But first a few comments :
The process was pretty straight forward according to building instructions but I also relied upon Ray's building log ( Thank you Ray )
For fellow Diana builders : please take a look at drawings 25 and 27 related to the masttops. You may want to fore those holes before fixing them upon the mast and certainly before mounting the yards ( ahem...)
 
I painted the connection pieces for the yard extensions (brackets?) in Vallejo 70.994 dark grey, for a little contrast.
Although I still can,  I did not fix the blocks to secure the topsail yards on the shrouds as I was a bit anxious to avoid any awkward tension on the same shrouds
Furthermore, some rigging is to be fixed on the shrouds just above the upper deadeye ( + cleats) . For the same reason, I wasn't to kean for this so I fixed the rigging on the lower deadeye. It's hardly visisble. This allows to add extra tension on the thread thus to obtain an as straight as possible rigging.
The footrope stirrups are of my own making.
So enjoy part 1 of 3

Thanks Jason,
 
I'm back from  Dorsetshire now and ready to do battle with the Garboard plank and the one above it.
Ideally I want to get these two fitted  and then work out the plank tapers for the ones in between working both up and down to infill.
 
B.E.
 
 

The problem with retro fitting the gun barrels, except perhaps for the 'hidden' guns is that how do you then get to fit the trunnion cap squares, tricky little beasts to fit at the best of times, let alone the keys and chains.
.... but if perhaps you're not over bothered by such fripperies then the issue doesn't arise 😉
 
B.E.

Thanks Jason,
 
I'm back from  Dorsetshire now and ready to do battle with the Garboard plank and the one above it.
Ideally I want to get these two fitted  and then work out the plank tapers for the ones in between working both up and down to infill.
 
B.E.
 
 

Thanks Jason,
 
I'm back from  Dorsetshire now and ready to do battle with the Garboard plank and the one above it.
Ideally I want to get these two fitted  and then work out the plank tapers for the ones in between working both up and down to infill.
 
B.E.
 
 

Hi Michael, I'm not referring to Footropes or horses as slung below the yards, but the complicated crowsfeet arrangements fitted to many  stays on ships of the 17th century. The crowsfeet that are fitted to the tops of 18th century ships were the last remaining vestige of the use of crowsfeet which died out towards the start of the 19th century.
 
The sort of attachments shown in your last photo above would I believe be classed as crowsfeet, but a prime example of their use in 17c ships would be the Spritsail Topmast backstays, certainly on English and Dutch ships, where very fancy set ups were the order of the day.
 
The Martnets (or Leechlines) were also of a similar form, and may benefit from some stiffening assistance to get them to look right.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi BE, sorry to have missed the start of your new build but nice to see so much progress in one sitting.  Looking very sharp and neat as to be expected, lovely work.

First rule of shipmodelling never wear sleeves😉
 
B.E.
 
 

Coming along beautifully Bob, very nice work.
 
B.E.