Blue Ensign

A fine bit of Parquetry work there Augie, very nicely done, and a good 'how to' as well.
 
B.E.

Me neither, I find it so much more difficult to maintain a clean line with a spiral. Probably to do with my low skill level, but I manage ok with the standard blades.
 
B.E.

The brick platform for the stove has been completed.
 
I decided to create a base for the (individual) bricks inside the coaming.  The base is 1/32" balsa sheet, painted grey:
 

 

 
3/32 x 1/32" planks were then painted two colors and cut into 'bricks' as seen below:
 

 
The ends of the faux bricks were touched up and then laid individually:
 

 
It's not perfect,  but I'm pleased.  About 60% of the platform will be covered by the stove itself.
 
Next on the agenda is the checkerboard floor for the Great Cabin....as per Ben's 'suggestion'.  Though this may require Divine Intervention, I'll give it a shot.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I got into a couple of those days when I just couldn't stop and completed all of the internal bulwark planking for the quarterdeck, including the transom. I also did the deck margin planks and waterways. The bulwark planking and waterways are boxwood and the deck planking is holly. I followed my usual procedure on this build with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler "treenails".
 
I'm going to do the center strip of deck planking before making a decision on how much more planking to do for gun mounting. I've narrowed it down to three choices: all of the guns on one side and none on the other; all of the guns on one side and a couple on the other side; a couple of guns on each side.
 
Bob
 

hi all
recent photos of rigging under way.on hold for the moment run out of rope! need to order some more from chuck.
cheers.....mick

hi all
just a short update.rigging progresses but have had to adjourn to make some larger blocks , chucks only go up to 6mm at the moment and the rigging plans / diagram call for 9mm blocks on the spreading yard. a first for me as ive never attempted to make blocks before.
came out ok in the end.lovely stuff to work with this swiss steamed pear!!
 
still lots to do!!
 
cheers ....mick

Gun carriages.  Seemed to come out ok.  As I am going to only plank up one side I only need three but will probably make all six just to have spares for when I try to rig them haha.
 

 
 

Alerted to your build by your visit to my log Rich, you are making a fine job of your Connie, nice work on those gunports, and the natural finish hull looks great.
 
You have a fine display model in the making.
 
B.E.

Got the old girl outside today for a few pics, it was such a gorgeous day.  Rigging will probably continue to look a bit scrappy until everything is in place (maybe thats why this tends to be a less photographed stage of any build).  I'm following the principle of avoiding tying things off until absolutely necessary to try to avoid things getting in the way, and continuing to work from stern to bow - its serving me well so far.
 
The main topmast with the shrouds and stays rigged, its quite the stack.  Backstays have not been finally secured.

 
Main stay and preventer stay arrangement - these will be finally tensioned and tied off later.  The violin blocks do look rather clunky despite trying to round these off.

 
Couple of overall shots - she does still look as if she has her curlers in with all the loose line!

Hi Guys,
 
It's update time again.
 
Been fairly busy on the rigging and it's not been without it's problems, which is to be expected.
 
Apart from the Back Stays, Breast ropes and the Jibboom Guy Pendants the standing rigging is done, I want to try and keep the Back Stays and Breast Ropes off for as long as possible to allow easier access inside for the running rigging. 
 
Following AEW's (Arthur) enquiry regarding the Mizzen and Main Topmast and Royal anchor points I decided to make a few changes, I undid the fixings and replaced them with block and tackle, I used hooks on the eyebolts with a single 3mm block with tail rope attached, the running end had a 3mm double block tied on, the tackle was tied off between the lower block and hook, it's much better, thanks Arthur.
 
Bowsprit is fitted along with the corresponding ropes, Boomkins are also on with brackets scratch built and fitted.
 
I'm going to get some photography lessens when you know who arrives so you'll have to put up with my efforts for now, sorry.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Before the change ( Topmasts & Royal Stays )               Half way through
 
 
The end result, better I think

 
So that's it for now.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
Denis
 
I have a Samsung Digimax L60 if that means anything but to be honest I get better results from my iPhone.
 
To answer your questions mate, the work on the loft has largely been completed although there is always little bits and pieces that need doing, it's not pretty but it's functional, I have lighting, mains power, and ventilation but I still have open beams, rough concrete block walls and cobwebs, thousands of cobwebs.
 
Anja and Sjors are definitely visiting very soon, in fact they arrive here on the 27th of this month, I'll pick them up from the port at 06:45 for a 2 week stay. First week we are going of to the Lake District and then it's back home for the second week, we will be celebrating Sjors 65th birthday and my Admirals and my 40th wedding anniversary. You better believe there will be pictures, lots of pictures, you never know I may even be in some of them, now that really is something to look forward to.
 
As far as the Aggie is concerned I'm just getting back into the swing of this after the refurbs, I am going to post an update with this and so I'll go into what I have done since getting back into it.
 
All the ratlines are now complete, the Mizzen, Main and Fore Mast Topgallant Shrouds are fitted and tied off, Shroud cleats are all fitted, Bowsprit Shrouds have the deadeyes tied and have been tied off and the Bowsprit Bobstays are all tied off and finally the Figurehead has been fixed on.
 
The ratlines gave me the biggest headache, I had the ship on a very low stool and I was still working at shoulder height, arms felt like lead by the time I was finished for each day, because of this they took longer than I would have liked.
 
Another part that I found awkward was tying off the Topgallant Shrouds to the platform deadeyes, whilst In the process of doing them I bashed the Mizzen Topgallant on one of my shelves which didn't do it a lot of good but I was able to repair the damage thankfully.
 
So some pictures of where I'm at.
 
First off the ratlines and topgallant shrouds
 
   
 
   
 
Next up Figurehead, Bowsprit Shrouds and Bowsprit Bobstays
 
   
 
   
 

 
So there we have it, your as up to date as I am.
 
My next task will be the Topmast Stays and the Topgallant Stays, I still have to do the backstays but I'm leaving them as long as possible so I have more access inside, at least that's the theory.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 

Thank you one and all for all the very generous comments and praise - it really does help me to keep going when I start to question my sanity!  Thanks also to all the "likes". 
 
Rafterrat - not sure I understand your question re blocks.  What do you mean by "running the blocks to the yards"?  If you could you try asking the question in a slightly different way, I may be able to answer it for you.  I don't believe there are any tricks - just a  lot of patience and perseverance.  I used Longridge as my main guide through the process.
 
Sherry - you better start getting that extension ladder out.............
 
Ship's Boats continued:
 
After a week or so of painting, I am finally able to continue with the Pinnace.  Today I installed the Thwarts, which are made of 1/32" x 3/32" Pear, trimmed with 1/32" x 1/32" Boxwood (same as the Launch).  There is also a 1/32" x 1/32" Boxwood stanchion supporting the centre of each Thwart except the forward most and aft most ones.  There were no particular difficulties in installing these.
Still experimenting with photography, so here's today's efforts to keep you-know-who happy:
 
A couple of overviews of the Thwarts in place:
 

 

 
This shows the supporting stanchions.  I could swear they were perfectly aligned when I viewed them with the naked eye! 
 

 
Here's a side shot that shows a little of the exterior painting.  I'm quite pleased with the end result - it is silky smooth to the touch and yet it is still possible to make out the planking.
 

 
Finally, I have progressed the framing on the two 25ft Cutters.  They are both now at the same stage:
 

 
Next up, Stern sheets for the Pinnace and then Caprails.  At some point soon, I'll have to start planking the Cutters, and yes folks, we're going to have a crack at clinker planking!     

Nice progress Hamilton, neat job on the margins
 
B.E.

That's how I see it Martin, although on my Pegasus the after hatch is battened down and covered by the grating.
 
ps: I have too many senior moments these days not to be patient.
 
Cheers B.E.

I'm not sure I follow your understanding of the Ladderways Martin.
 
There is a ladderway at the fore end of the Upper deck, and another one behind the Capstan on the Upper deck both leading to the Lower deck. I have fitted the fore hatch ladder, but the aft hatch ladderway is covered by a grating, and I saw little point in fitting a ladder, particularly as the whole set up is covered by the Quarterdeck.
 
The ladderway from the Quarterdeck to the Upper deck is, as on the plans and the kit, forward of the Upper Capstan.
 
Regarding the coamings and head ledges; to finish those off the grating has to be removed, and to get the grating edges flush with the coamings they also have to have careful final shaping  out of the framing.
 
When I made up my hatchways I first  made the gratings to the closest full segments, and then built the framing around them. This avoids having those niggling little stubs sticking out of the edges.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 
 

That's a very fine and appealing model you've produced there Mick, I like it very much.
 
 
B.E.

Okay, so here's the photos that I didn't get to take last night.   I'm still experimenting with the photography, but the pics seem to be getting better. 
 
First up, I made a "handle" from copper wire and looped it through the gunwales to provide a handhold while painting.  It also served as a holding post for the vice while the paint dried:
 

 

 
Here is the current state of play with painting.  Probably just one or two clear coats of Dull Cote for protection now:
 

 

 
Meanwhile, progress with the Cutters (well, one of them anyway):
 
Here's the keel:
 

 
And with frames placed in the building board and frame "plugs" inserted (as per the Launch):
 

 
And without the Plug:
 

 

 
Finally, here's a couple of shots of both the Pinnace and Cutter Plugs for comparison.  They are really quite different hull forms:
 

 

 
The Admiral is giving me "the look" again, so that's it for now!!!

Well, I didn't manage to work on Prototype #2 as planned (someone brought home a bushel of basel from the farmer's market, so I made pesto instead).
 
I did manage to put in some trenails.  This time the gods smiled on me (it must have been the pesto), and I got the Swiss pear down to #21 on the drawplate, which enabled me to use a 79 drillbit.
 
Here's how it looks:
 

 
I also want to say thanks for the link, BE.  I haven't looked at the early pages of your log on this site for a while.  These seem to have a few different details, which make me think I should spend some time looking them over.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

A long time distracted and then rigging guns but here they are. Remaining deck furniture up next including bitts, pumps, QD barricade and the tiller housing.

Love those overhead shots Nils.
 
To keep the guns steady for rigging, I fixed them with pins thro' the bed of the carriage. I pre-drilled the deck to take the pins and when I was ready to fit the guns they were secured with a spot of ca on the pin end.
 
B.E.

Love those overhead shots Nils.
 
To keep the guns steady for rigging, I fixed them with pins thro' the bed of the carriage. I pre-drilled the deck to take the pins and when I was ready to fit the guns they were secured with a spot of ca on the pin end.
 
B.E.

thanks Popeye,
 
rigging those small 3 mm blocks is driving me crazy, especialy when the neat tackle is taken from the seperate pretackling device and transfered to the positions on the gundeck....., the tackle trys to tangle up and twist extreme. I have also given up my own Obligation not glue the carriages on...., but now CA helps to secure the Position. Would love to hear what fellow builders do in that case ?
 
Nils
 
 
Here some pics of the gun Tackling, I started with the most difficult ones under the forecastle deck
 

 

 

here also the horizontal beam with the maessenger return rollers, it also supports the anchor cable above the Manager board an -pit
 

 
 

the riding bit is pushed in a bit too deep (still loose) on the left side, thas why it does not apear straight here
 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 40
 
 
 
Working on the gun tacklings in the Moment....
 
 
 
this is a very weary Job with these good looking but very small 3mm blocks ( single and double).
Instead of cotton rope I used 100 % Polyester thread in natural hemp Color, which Looks the same, but gives the possibility to thin out the Ends (soft flame / heat) for doing the sheaving through the tiny holes
 
 
 
 

there are left and right Tacklings and the carriage backing tackle
 
 

the breech ropes are all pretackled to the carriages
 
 

this Little device helps to pretackle the blocks
 
 

I do 6 at a time (for two guns)
 
 

 
 

the runner Ends are not belayed properly yet.
This first test mounting was just to see if the Position can be achieved with the 3 Tacklings only
 
 
 

I think I`m not going to glue the carriages to the deck
 
 

 
 
 
 
Nils

Well here we go again.... another UPDATE!!!!....... I think I left off showing the first two planks being set, I've made some progress since then,
the first band is finished, port and starboard.  Before I started to do the planking I had ordered some basswood sheets from National Balsa.
While waiting for it to come in,I found  a  sheet of basswood that I had purchased from Michael's. ( 1/16thx 3 x24 ), so I thought I'd get a little head start before my  main supply came in. Well my supply came in and I started up again, I had finished 3 rows before I notice that National
Balsa's 1/16th  and Michael's 1/16th were a little off, just enough to p--- you off, so out came the alcohol, the removal was easy enough, I'm glad I did it, it looks better ( to me) I think once the planking is finished and the hull is sanded some, It should look OK . Another nice thing about spiling is that there 's not much room for fillers. I've been beveling one side of each plank that butts up to the previous one so they get a nice tight fit. Following are some pictures of the progress. By the way I highly recommend the spiling method for planking. I don't know what took me so long to try it...... FEAR!!!! :D
 
 
 
 
this is the second plank being fit on the first strake
 

 
 
you could never get this shape by just bending
 

 
the following just show planking to the end of the first band
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Well that's it for now folks..... Thanks for look'n in
 
Frank
 
 

A bit of progress on Fair Rosamund:
 
The deck - came in the same rather disappointing ply as the bulkheads - kind of fuzzy and messy, but a little more solid. Had to fix the bulkhead extension slots to fit the framework - no big deal. Marked the deck up for planking (centre line & positions for the deck planks. Here are some photos
 

 

 

 
Margin planks - not featured as part of the kit - I borrowed this feature from Meredith, who included them on his build. I may have cut mine a little wide, but they'll eventually be partly thinned by the inboard bulwark planking. I guessed at a measurement of 7mm by looking at Meredith's build log and judging the width of his margins relative to the sub-deck. I decided to make the margins in 4 sections, scarfed together.
 
I made templates using bristol paper and transferred these onto 10mm x 3/64mm lime - unfortunately I only had enough of this material for the first 2 planks port and starboard and the plank across the stern....my local wood supplier only had 1/32 or 1/16" sheets, so the last 2 planks on both sides are 1/32 - eventually I'll sand the others down to match. Here again are some photos of the process - the same process was used for each of the margin planks
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next steps - fairing the frames & deck planking/finishing - fun times ahead!
 
hamilton