Blue Ensign

Great deck planking job Ray, I wish had gone the extra mile on Pegasus with the top and butt.
 
B.E.

Deck FittingsAt the same time as making up the main deck guns and rigging them I also started making some of the deck fittings, hatches, bits, ladders and the stove the photos below show the progress.
 
The first hatch

 
The first hatch finished

 
Hatches and ladders

 
Hatches test fitted


 
Stove added

 
The fittings and the guns


 
 
 
 
 
 
 

At last the ship's boats have been completed. Believe me, it was a real challenge.
 
First of all the boat's resin hulls should have been sanded. Otherwise you can have big problems when glueing the cartridge paper for the ribs into the hull. My big awareness...
 

 
But the rest was quite easy.
 

 

 

 
Well, the lauch is very tall and I'll don't fit it until the rigging has been completed.
 

 

 

 

I see you have a few kits stacking up under your workbench and I love that Mahogany flooring!
 The quarterbadge redo looks very good!
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

There are a pair of belaying pins in the small rail situated on the port and starboard quarters. Originally I provided these for the (lower) spread yard braces and the gaff vangs – before I discovered that vangs, at least on cutters, had not then been introduced. Thus the forward one is now a spare. There is also an eyebolt on each rail for a lead block, through which the braces will pass before being belayed.
 
Moving forward, on each side of the companion I provided shot garlands for the 3pdr guns, and these are also situated on each side of the other hatches. Garlands are also fixed to the bulwarks, between the guns. The aftermost, between the last pair of guns on each side, actually contain only three balls – and one belaying pin. This is to belay the falls of the running backstays, when they are rigged. The balls themselves are made from the round parts of a cheap necklace, which just happened to be the right size – and are definitely surplus to my wife’s requirements! Each ball was cut from the chain, tidied up, painted and then glued in place. (Btw, I usually use a thin stick with a small blob of blue tack on one end, to lightly pick up and glue small objects like this. I find it works quite well, and one can place items rather more accurately than with the fingers.)
 
We now come to the guns, which I have mentioned before as having caused a certain amount of trouble with relation to the ports! For each gun I provided a pair eyebolts in the bulwarks to take the breech ropes, another pair for the side tackles, and one in the deck behind each gun for the running-in tackle. The latter, of course, should really have a ring through it. I decided not to rig the side or running-in tackles, which perhaps was an ommission and, again with hindsite, I think the breech ropes are not really thick enough. However…
 

 
Each of the hatches was given a coaming, this being caulked into the surrounding planks and raised a little above deck level. I decided to fill in the hatches themselves with offcuts from the kit and paint them black, before fitting the red gratings, to give a sense of depth. This seemed to work reasonably well, the main hatch in any case being largely hidden by the boat.
 
We now come to that aforementioned very necessary item of equipment – without which, no vessel is really complete! I copied a suitable drawing, from ’The Boats of Men of War’ by WE May, which was about the right size that I needed. The boat was constructed on a small building board, with scale frames and planking, the latter being mostly card since it was much easier to work and shape. The gunwale, which is made from wood, has rowlocks cut in it. The interior was then fitted out with thwarts, resting on internal stringers, sternsheets, and a small foredeck. The inside was painted grey, and fitted with bottom-boards which were painted red. This I thought both made for a nice contrast with the main interior, and also matched the red of the cutter herself. I painted the outside the same ivory shade I had used below the cutter’s waterline, and the gunwale is black. To finish off, the oars were made from orange sticks, with thin card for the blades, and painted white. Thin black paper made suitable leathers. The rudder was made from thin ply, with a wood rudder stock, and there is a separate tiller. A coiled painter was provided on the foredeck. The boat was lashed down to four ring bolts in the deck.
 
On either side of the boat are the pumps. I modified the base of these, although I used the metal top and handle. Their bases were cut at an angle, so that the imaginary ’business end’ of the pump shaft would be adjacent to the keel, where the water would normally collect. The handle is connected by a brass rod mechanism , actually the stem of a cut-off ringbolt, and there is a short outfall pipe on the outboard side of each pump. The base of the pump and the handle are painted red, the former also having two ’iron’ bands, made from black paper, around them.
 

 
Forward of the boat and main hatch, and just aft of the mast, are the jeer bitts. This structure was not included in the kit, being an addition of my own, but it is certainly a feature of cutters of the period, as is evidenced by models and pictures. It consists of two uprights, with a geared roller at the top and a crossbar beneath and, as its name suggests, it is used for hoisting purposes. The gearing on either end of the top roller, is actually just pencilled lines drawn on the black-painted ends, but it looks effective enough. There is a winding handle on each end, made from pieces of bent wire.
 
I originally fitted six eyebolts to the deck, to take the various tackles connected to the running rigging that will be belayed to cleats fitted around the base of the mast. I am now not certain I will use all of them, and actually since then I have fitted another two outboard of the anchor cable, one on each side, as giving a better lead. However, one never knows.
 
Abreast the mast on either bulwark, are two pinrails, with six pins in each. These were supplied with the kit and at the time of fitting them, the number of pins seemed barely adequate. In fact, with rather more rigging seemingly to be belayed, I think they may be woefully inadequate. I should perhaps made have my own rail, with extra pins – but I tell myself, I can always resort to shroud cleats if necessary!
 
Forward of the mast is a rail. This again was supplied with the kit, but I added six belaying pins to the crossbar, as I intend to belay the the square sail sheets here. Ahead of that is the foredeck grating, down to the crews quarters, with the shot garlands on either side. Offset to the starboard side I fitted a chimney, painted black, and which I imagine connects to the stove below!
 
Next we come to the bowsprit support, from the kit. This was straightforward, but I felt that it needed pinning as well as gluing to the deck. The heel of the dowel-rod bowsprit was squared, to pass through the support, and I drilled two extra holes through it, to give the impression that the bowsprit can be moved in and out.
 
I wasn’t too happy with the anchor windlass as supplied, as I felt it didn’t look at all realistic, the completely straight windlass bar being rather strangely made up from short sections! I redesigned it to my own liking, giving it a proper shape, with hexagonal faces. The central section, was made to look as if it had toothed gearing, that engaged with the small bar-mounted rachet, but this again was merely pencilled on the black finish. The equidistant holes for the bars were also just painted black, on the red structure. I had thought about providing the bars themselves, but then the lack of a place to stow them arose – so I stored them below!
 
The anchors also needed some attention. The anchors themselves I thought were well cast and with the minimum of flash, but the wooden stocks – made as in actual practice from two halves - needed some considerable modification. To begin with they were too long, so I reduced the length at each end so that they were approximately the same length as the metal shank – which fitted with the proportions for an anchor of this type. They then needed sanding somewhat. The modified arms were then glued together around the shank, below the ring, at a ninety degree angle to the arms. Four ’iron’ bands, made from black paper, were then glued around the stocks at appropriate points. Finally, the anchor rings were ’puddened’, or wound round with black cord, which on the real vessel helps to prevent chafe. The anchors are held in their stowed position, by to two supports on the outside of the bulwarks – my own invention – although I think I may have made them a little overlarge. They are also made fast with a length of line, belayed to the two aftermost timber heads. The anchor cables are lengths of plaited cord, that I thought looked somewhat realistic. They are perhaps a little overscale, but I think they do the job. Running aft past the mast, their inboard ends disappear down the fore end of the main hatch, in which I made two squared holes. Their other ends are ’clinched’ to the anchor ring, their circumference making them too large, of course, to tie a knot!
 
The catheads needed little modification, and are basically as supplied. I didn’t give them any decoration, merely a couple of paper ’iron’ bands, before painting them black. Due to the lack of suitable belaying places I decided to fit a crossbar between the catheads, over the bowsprit, with some pins. Two of these are already taken up, by the inhaul and outhaul lines for the traveller ring, for the staysail. Finally, there is a band around the top of the stem piece, with a ringbolt on the fore side to take the preventer stay when rigged.
 
 
Next time: the outboard details, the bowsprit and the mast.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello,
 
Matti, Ferit, and Zy thanks for your nice comments, always appreciated. Mark you are the lucky one, yes your kit included those complex looking braces. I really like the BB version of this ship. Good choice.
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An update; had the last of couple days off, and my sweetheart is out so I can very comfortably make noise with the dremel {and my music}(:-) I painted and installed the bow figures. I am very happy to be DONE with painting those tiny little creatures.
 
I wanted to also add the small pedestals, and small frames behind each figure as seen in the 1/10th, but there is no space, the pedestals would then hang down lower than that timber upon which those little feet are now perched. Looks better that way. Pics are self-explanatory.
 
A couple of thoughts;
They were lined up by height, with the tallest closest to the deck.
The blue figure at the tip has since been straightened out a bit. One might think that he was trying to dive off of the ship before it sank.
 
----------------------
 
Now onto those darned gratings. I did complete the most forward one. I'm comfortable with the results so far. I will post when completed.
 
Again I want to thank all of who have been so kind with your encouraging words, and thanks as well to those of you just looking in. Your time spent at my build is a personal kindness, thank you.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

You're a class builder Greg, she looks wonderful.
 
B.E.

Speedwell's framing has finally been completed. Note the various shifts and casts of the toptimbers as they frame the ports. There are many more of these on this vessel than on a Swan class ship and they can be challenging at times. My plan is to plank her from the ports up and rig her.

Nice work on the blocks Grant, I envy your dedication and skill; for me all I can say is thank God for Chuck
 
B.E.

I found a few hours to finish the bridle ports and one of the rear gun ports. I hope that with coming fall and winter I can shift more time to ship modeling again  . . .  
The gun port lids were done following Chuck’s instructions. The photo etched hinges for the bridle ports supplied in the kit were not quite as long as they were shown on Chuck’s plans, so I made my own.
 

Bridle port, port side
 

Bridle ports, front view
 

Bridle port, starboard
 

Bridle port, deck view
 

Closed rear gun port
 

Rear gun port, deck view

...

I’ve glued the masts and started to fit the shrouds.
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.co...han_gokcay/sets
http://www.flickr.co...57626433922489/

Dear friends, a little updating: placing of fore beams. Being the interior visible, I decided to make a realistic accomodation (...insofar where you can see beams and brackets ...).
 
Cheers
Alex

B.E. thanks for stopping by.
 
It interesting working on each aspect separately as the need to operate the rigging and sails dictates what I have to make next. each task seems to require more research into how things are done.
 
Last evening I was able to make the rail for the bottom of the mast the posts knees and rail are all from different colours of maple they are not glued yet. The posts are set through the deck and abut the beam in front of them.
 

 

 
The belaying pin is a placeholder to see what they would look like the final ones will be from Lignum Vitae.
 
Michael

The base of the mizzenmast...
And the bitt...

Limited time for the shipyard today due to social duties, but did manage to make about 250 3/16" (4.75mm) blocks.
 
I decided not to re-do the stock blanks and persevered with those I had already made.  I still think the grooves were all cut a little too deep, and this has meant more "rejects" due to the side walls of the sheaves breaking off.  Nevertheless, I think there will be sufficient salvageable to use.  I also tried to get the sheave holes close to the ends of the blocks as suggested by Chuck, though I think there's room to go further out still.  It's only when seeing them under the camera's macro lens that you can see the room there is to move.  Working on the drill press, even with the Optivisors on, it seemed to me that I was at the limit - but maybe not! 
 
Anyway, here's a couple of pics of today's production run.  Not quite up to Chuck's standard, but still way better than kit provided stuff.
 

 

 
And here's a couple of yesterday's 1/4" blocks for size comparison (1/4" on the left, 3/16" on the right):
 

 
Next weekend I'll be trying my hand at 5/32" (4mm) and 1/8 (3mm) as these are the most common size for my Victory.
 
And yes Chuck, I will be having a go at some doubles and triples further down the track! 

Looks like update time... 
 
The port side (or as it's called around the shipyard:  The Wall Side, has it's first area planked.. namely the area between the main wales and the chain or sheer wale.  Not sure what to call it really... since only the main mast channel sits on it.   Planked, and then final shaped the gunports.  A bit (for me) of weirdness as I was doing this and sent me scrambling back to the research department.  Seems the gunports are NOT square.  The sides are straight with respect to the frames but the sills follow the deck.  So.. some look really "extreme" to my eye but they match the Hahn plans, the NMM plans, a couple of shots I received via PM of the original French plans from when the ship was first built in 1755.  Footnote... I'm building her as she was in 1778 after a major rebuild/repair but not "as captured".  I don't like the roundhouses on the poop/quarterdeck as Hahn built her.
 
I've also started adding the wales.  Notably the chain/sheer wale first.  This took a bit of figuring out due to the nature of the mailns.  I was going to use the walnut that came with the timbering set but didn't like the look against the swiss pear planking. I wanted the look of ebony for contrast.   Tried staining the walnut and then sanding it.... which created a different set of issues since the wales are blended into the lower hull planking..  sanding killed the stain and after testing, I realized I couldn't restain without ruining any planking and the stem.       So....back to the drawing board.  Finally concluded... it has to be ebony.  
 
I've played with my homemade bender and think I can overcome the biggest problem and that's bending the stuff using the thickness of the wales I need.  We'll see... I may be laminating.   On the plus side, I've got enough ebony lying around to do this but not enough to finish the build (rails, trim, etc.) so I found a supplier who's shipping me some at a reasonable price.
 
Anyway.. here's photos... still needs to be hit with the 600 grit and then finished but I'll hold on that for awhile.
 


 
I know, I have talked people out of using ebony because it's just nasty stuff.  I really am not fond of it.  But if someone knows of a different solution (no paint--please) let me know.

And even more.

And more !

Like the pics hamilton, she's looking very good;
 
Nice bit of scratch building, an achievement at only 1:100 scale.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Nice bit of eight squaring on the topmasts there Richard, look excellent.
 
B.E.

Assembly of the masts.

The two parts of the lower masts. The lower parts are 6mm dowels and the upper parts are 4x4mm walnut.
 


Fore top and main top are fitted. The top must sit parallel to the waterline when the masts are fitted into locating holes.
 


And the same procedure with the topmasts.  This time the lower parts have to be sanded to an octagon.
 

 



Ready for painting.
 

Thanks a lot for the words of encouragement Mobbsie! Much appreciated as usual!
 
OK - time for another update. The cannon rigging continues, but I've decided to break it up a bit by completing some other parts of the build at the same time - namely, the ship's wheel, the capstan, the main jeer & topsail sheet bitts (the latter fitted with gallows) and the forward gallows (positioned just forward of the forward hatches and not yet installed).
 
The forward gallows are not included in the Corel kit nor do they appear in Goodwin's drawings. They do, however, show up in a photo of a model in Goodwin's book, and I've used that photo as support for the decision to install these gallows. In any case, I need them as forward support for the spare masts that act as a cradle for the ship's boat (about which I asked an extremely stupid question in another area of this forum). So there it is....
 
All the parts were scratch built with the exception of the ship's wheel itself, which I did not even try to attempt. The supports for the wheel that were included in the kit were these spindly metal pieces - they looked like metal pillars that had been repurposes as a ship's wheel. I derived the design for the ones I built from Goodwin.
 
The capstan was a lot of fun to make, and even though it did not turn out perfect, I'm more or less happy with the results. I could have made it again, but I feel pressure to move along with the build - I may have mentioned earlier that we're expecting another child in late November, so once that happens, there will be precious little time for modelling - and lots of time for bouncing the little person on my knee and teaching our son how to change diapers!
 
Now the photos
hamilton
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The .024" plastic coated Beadalon 49 strand wire works well. This is with the boom hanging loose and no extra tension, I need to get some smaller diameter black heat shrink. and make the loops bigger but I am happy with the way it is hanging. Also I need to reverse the inside chock. I think I will also make a small saddle for the wire to attach to the block rather than just the shackle.
 

 

 
Michael

HMS Royal William in 1719
 
Historical Background
 
 
The HMS Royal William in 1719 was the second ship of that name. The first HMS ROYAL WILLIAM was built in 1692 out of the 1670 HMS PRINCE forth. Rebuilt in this the extent of HMS PRINCE were retained, only the appearance has been significantly modernized. It was in honor of King William III. renamed HMS PRINCE in HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. The HMS ROYAL WILLIAM in 1692 was subjected to this Rebuilt in Chatham by shipwright Robert Lee.
William III. reigned from 1689 to 1702. He comes from the house of Oranien Nassau.
To make in England, he came through the „Glorious Revolution" 1688/89, at the Stuart King James II was deposed. William III. was married to Mary II Stuart. Mary II Stuart died on December 28, 1694th . After the death of William III. by Maria's sister, Anne Stuart power. Quenn Anne was the last British queen tables from the House of Stuart.
Anne reigned from 1702 to 1714. The English Parliament cleared the way for George I from the House of Hanover with the „Act of Settlement“. George I ruled Great Britain from 1714 to 1727. In the reign of George I., the second much Rebuilt HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. In 1719, she was subjected to this Rebuilt in Portsmouth by ship builder John Naish. You still kept the name HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. Rebuilt in 1756 during her next she was from a first rate to a seconde rate of 84 cannon built back. She was one of the ships of the Royal Navy with the longest period of service and was scrapped in 1813. Of the HMS ROYAL WILLIAM, there are three models in the NMM in London and one in Annapolis from the Rogers Collektion. Although the HMS ROYAL WILLIAM is one of the best documented ships of the Royal Navy, so there are very large differences in the models. In this I'll talk more about in the course of my building report.
 
My ROYAL WILLIAM is based on the plans of Euromodel. The keel and the frames are made of poplar plywood and the hull was built of pinewood. After a little bit of boxwood and pear only came to use. Now some pictures, I will soon, when I have more time, to write much more.
 
Regards Kay
 
I hope you understand my bad english, I will learn it here in the forum definitely better.