Chuck Seiler
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Wood Source
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That surprises me, although I never got anything smaller than 1/16". There might be a limit down to which they can work. It wouldn't hurt to ask. What wood? -
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what kind and dimension of wood (or other material) to use as battens to guide planking?
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Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
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Remains of 500 year-old shipwreck: Dated 2019
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Yellow and Yellow Ochre
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Yellow and Yellow Ochre
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Yellow and Yellow Ochre
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Yellow and Yellow Ochre
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IIRC, Nelson had his ships paint the masts below the tops yellow prior to Trafalgar so the could be distinguished from the French/Spanish in the smoke of battle. Not sure if he did this at other times or if the tradition was carried forward. I don't believe Pegasus was at Trafalgar.
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Not seeing NRG logo on my posts
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I would be reluctant to use oak in planking that small. The grain is quite coarse. I have been told beech is 'scale oak'. It is tight grained and easy to work with. I get beech from OCOOCH HARDWOOD. That having been said, if you are dead set on using oak and Modelers Sawmill cannot get it, Ocooch probably can.
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Square away that rudder mate! 🤣
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I do as well. It works great for my older corded Dremel but my newer non-corded has a smaller circumference and does dot fit. I asked Larry if he makes an adapter. He does not. 😒
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Sometimes. That is what my Dremel is for.
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I agree with Mark and Gregory...look into the NRG Planking Tutorial. It is much more than a "Read this or watch that" tutorial. It involves actually planking a half hull. I know that doesn't answer your original question...but it actually does. "Using planking (shipbuilding) methods they originally used" is complicated and not completely replicatable on a plank on bulkhead model. The tutorial teaches you about spiling,tapering, cheaters and spacers (and maybe edge bending) so your planking comes out right. Some start with the wale and work up and down. I like Mastini's recommendo about starting a half plank below deck level. It allows the next plank up to overlap (strength) and give space for waterways, etc.
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Here is one I like alot. It handles the really small micro bits and is VERY comfortable in the hand. I got it from a local hobby shop (model train) but it is also available online.
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Excellent work on the carlings and ledges. Practicing on the covered side is like practicing on the first layer of a double planked hull-your mistakes will not show.
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I had similar results with my hold, but for different reasons. Test staining of structural pieces (frames) proved less than satisfactory. I ended up using wood dye (brown in the lower areas and a mix of brown and golden yellow above deck). The brown was darker than I wanted but the brown/golden yellow got me close to what I wanted. I went with B/GY on the deck beams. My planking stain will be Golden Pecan rather than Golden Oak. At the end of the day, the 'rustic' lower deck may work out well. The various colored barrels give the cargo and lower deck a well used look. ...although if you are looking for pristine, that may not be what you want. Why did you go with Miniwax Poly BEFORE you stained? It seemed to me that would inhibit penetration.
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- Pinas
- kolderstok
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I will second the motion on walnut being too coarse-grainy and dark. I also find it too brittle. I love cherry for frames/bulkheads and some furniture, but not consistent for planking. For a model I hope to be a quality piece, I like boxwood for hull planking. works wee, sands well, staims well. A bit pricey these days, but... Another favourite is Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Not as hard as box. A little harder than basswood, but works and finishes well (IMO).
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I did too. I was just wondering if somebody had come up with a way to 'lay to rest' my old models.
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I was curious about the hull planting.
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Eyesplice or cow hitch on the ends. Clove hitch on all others.
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