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Chuck Seiler

NRG Member
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About Chuck Seiler

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : San Diego area
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling, eh

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  1. Estaban, I am a big fan of placing one figure in a strategic location to give perspective. I do feel, though, that the use of a base detracts. In the past I have placed a small hole in one or both feet and pinned the figure to the deck. Will discuss in 2 weeks.
  2. I have the Ultimation hand disk sander as well. In general, I don't like it as much as my Byrnes disk sander, but it is far more portable...and quite useful. I find, however, it must be clamped to the workbench or it slides all over the place.
  3. I remember seeing a model in a museum in the LA area where the 'pot metal' parts had all disintegrated into piles of grayish-white dust. I was told they were the lead fitting used a loooong time ago. I think the newer mystery metals such as Britannia don't do that (at least in my lifetime).
  4. Siggi, Amazing work! What are you using for nails/rivets?
  5. I have the V2 version and have gotten as far as making the frames (while I work on another model). I have thought about using copper wire, with the end treated with a cupping burr. Once the nails/rivets are in place, they can be darkened using Liver of Sulpher...at least that is my theory. I am told LoS does not stain the wood. Alot of work, though.
  6. Is this going to be double planked ( second layer of thin planking over the first), a single planked painted or single planked stained?
  7. You are correct. That was a poor representation of what I was trying to get at. The updated drawing is probably better. The key is dry fitting a plank or cardboard template so that it snugs into the curve of the stem. As you say, the upper edge should be straight. It will be a natural fit.
  8. I had that problem as well. I read alot about it and followed many build logs. The light finally came on when I took what I had learned and started experimenting. By taking a test plank and sanding the bow end as I go, I test fit the plank. At one point, the plank fit snug with little or no problem This was normally right at the curve of the keel up to the stem. Working it out just from plans never worked. Test plank or cardboard template in conjunction with the model ended up working for me.
  9. When I made the Pavel Nikitin "JOHN SMITH SHALLOP", I replaced the line with after market line. Two GREAT sources are SYREN SHIPMODEL COMPANY and ROPES OF SCALE. Both are MSW sponsors. ROS offers synthetic and cotton line while SYREN only has synthetic. Both are good.
  10. Never use rungs, steps, ratlines or horizontals on boarding nets as handholds. Its a good way to get your hand stepped on.
  11. Riverboat hulls are really pretty basic...a flat bottom barge with alot of stuff on it.
  12. Is what we are looking at the underside pf the hull or the main deck? Either way, I would sand the frame to the planking and plan the sides accordingly. If underside of hull, the sides could be slightly tapered inward. Ditto deck...It appears too small to notice. I build the steamer FAR WEST a few (hundred) years ago. I don't recall any waterways on a riverboat.
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