Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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Lyle, That is really looking good. You are well on track to be done on time. I hope mine ends up looking as good as yours. -
Will you darken the nail heads? If so, how?
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Wow! Significant progress. Looking good. I find the cutwater very interesting. It seems quite large for such a small boat. I guess you might need it to ram rival fishermen. 😄 Between your progress and Louie d F's start on the NEF, I am embarrassed at my lack of productivity. I have been dawdling with the Jesus Boat, some movement, but I need to get in gear and go public. Build log by Saturday.
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Here is the link I mentioned. Includes info on book and other links to more detailed photos. https://www.modelships.de/Nef-Winchelsea/Nef-Winchelsea_eng.htm
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Steven, I am pulling up a chair. I am considering that model as well. It was going to be after my cog, but I stalled on the cog and another project interceded. I have the book as well. I do not read or speak German but the plans are pretty good and there are some fine diagrams. It covers the nef and another that resembles a longboat, but was used by William the Conqueror...after all, Normans WERE Viking descendants. The plans yielded the following model which can be found on the internet. I can send the link. There are multiple angles and interior shots I had not chosen NOT to name my log (when I make one) Winchelsea Nef because everybody will be opening it expecting a frigate. 😄However, if you look at the transom of Chuck P's WINCHELSEA model, you will find the nef.
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Knot tying tools
Chuck Seiler replied to Dsmith20639's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use tweezers and forceps. Some are locking and some are not. -
The pattern Lyle used is from the excavation. (see attached). The book refers to the individual pieces as "floor timbers", "futtocks" and "half frames". As Lyle's model shows, the frames alternate floor timer, half frame, FT, HF, etc. Many of the floor timbers have "futtocks" which extends the frame to the gunn'l, but not all. The book notes that some locations where frames are missing you can see nails, other locations there are no nails. I have seen models where floor timber/futtock arrangement goes the full length of the boat and some where that arrangement is used only for about the center 1/3 while floor timber-only is used for forward and aft 1/3s. Who knows for sure.
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You are off to a great start. Good wood makes alot of difference in the build. Good luck with the pear. I think you will find it bends easier as well.
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Doors
Chuck Seiler replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Oh, the humanity!!!!!! 😲 -
Doors
Chuck Seiler replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I can live with 'doors' depending on the situation, but I have to balk at walls (bulkheads), windows (ports), floors (decks) and boats (ships). Okay, windows if associated with transom and quarter galleries. Okay, floors if talking about the lower-most part of a frame. Okay, stairs if you are talking about what you do at a group of women after a long time at sea. Or would that be stares? -
Doors
Chuck Seiler replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I was never in the Navy in the 18th century, only the 20th. Back then they actually had doors, as has been discussed. Openings from one deck to another were hatches. Even today, after the advent of watertight compartmentation, the hole that I walk through to get from one space to another is secured with a water tight door. As DCA I had to buy enough of them to know. -
Lyle, How structurally sound is that? Will the frames beef it up or re they just for show...and it requires the thwarts for solidity (is that a word?)
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I use both, locking and non-locking tweezers and forceps. There are times when I need to lock it, but most of the time I prefer unlocked. It gives me better control.
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The black thread tying off the line around the ring is called "seizing". In my Boy Scout days I think we called it frapping. The seizing should be the same color as the line seized, for the most part. Black or dark brown thread/line represents line that has been coated or treated with pine tar to preserve it...mostly standing rigging. If the line was treated with pine tar, the seizing would be coated as well, after being seized.
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How long are you soaking your planks?
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I dunno, days...weeks? From the conversation I got the impression "it looked fine a couple days ago and now it is saggy/overstight (pick one).
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Ben (and anyone who might know), During a recent discussion about model rope at a model club meeting, two veteran rope makers said that they did not like the polyester rope because it tended to sag or over-tighten over time due to humidity. Does baking fix that?
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I think that if you build up the quoins you will be fine.
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We need to petition the moderators to install a feature that stops time while we review all the posts we want to review.
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LN= Lady Nelson If keeping with the same carriage, I would take a pair of nippers and snip the offending quoin off, then smooth down with a file. If replacing the carriage is being considered, SYREN makes pretty good carriage to go along with the guns. Chuck offers a 6 pounder for his 1:48 Cheerful. That is not a perfect scaledown for a 1:64 3 pounder, but it might be worth looking into.
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Why 4 inch? When I used to build ships that had gratings, I used Thurston 3" .030 kerf slottings (I think). They worked fine. As mentioned above, Malco is a good replacement for Thurston. Malco Jewelers Slotting # JS30281200, 3 inch, 1/2 inch arbor, 220 teeth $16.67. I just got several at .028, .010, and .006. They also have 4" blades (and 1 and 1.5 and 2 and 2,5).
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It appears to me the the guns are fully elevated. I would remove whatever metal quoin that is in place and replace it with a larger wooden one. If the barrels were parallel to the deck, they would sit well in the port.
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No, I am talking about the joints plank-to-plank along the same strake. Attached is an example, but with far too many joints. Figure 5.12 and Foldout 1 of Waschmann show these, but hard to see.
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Pencils. Use the eraser against the wood. It grips better than wood on wood.
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