Chuck Seiler

Ah, ship-in-a-bottle tool. I see. In that case you also need a professional bottle emptier. I volunteer.

As I strive for smaller tools, I wonder why you would need forceps that long?

I disagree a little with Allan. There are many replicas out there that would replicate the sound quite well (assuming the engine is turned off). You didn't specify what kind of sailing vessel. There are quite a few brigs, schooners and small vessel...larger, not so much...although there are a couple frigates that get out and about once in awhile. Also, an 19th century schooner will give a similar result as an 18th century one. Also, although sound attenuation will be a little different between wood and metal, I can provide some input based on years on a naval destroyer. You do not specify size of vessel or sea state. A wooden ship at sea is an orchestration of wood working against wood. Alot of groaning and creaking and this is increased with the increase in sea state (along with the sound of people barfing over the side). The larger ships would have a deeper sound. Yes, you can hear the water below deck, thru the hull. Below the waterline you can hear sounds as well. 18th century ships did not have sonar...on modern day destroyers you can hear somebody else's sonar from a distance. I heard whales once. The sound aboard a ship inport is universal...sailors complaining about not being able to go ashore fast enough.

Progress Continues... Stern hull supports and false frames for aft strakes are in place. Aft strakes in place. Vertical knee and support added to port side above-deck deck beam. Blackened bamboo peg/trunnel is test fitted into knee. This will serve to strengthen the knee and act as 'bolt'. Mast support in place. I decided to add a little color by staining it "Sedona Red" Whadya think?

Here is one from Queen Lagertha from the TV show VIKINGS.

Eric, Great presentation. Many thanks.

I'm late to the party. Louie da Fly ate all the popcorn. Very nice build! What is next? I know of a good cog kit.

Oh! That's right. Still, I should strive to be more careful.

Progress continues. A number of false frames are installed in the stern area starboard side. Once dried, the aft-most plank section of the upper strake is installed. With all other strakes I started at the bow and worked back because it was critical that the plank placement on the stem be exact while the stern could be fudged. With the finals strake I started at the stern because it will eventually end with a 'flying end'. I chose not to install all the false frames before installing the plank. I found it works better for me. I will add the remainder later...probably right after I post this. My glue job is less than great. This will be under the stern structure so will not be too visible. I need to work on my technique. I added one false frame right at a location where there is a seem in the strake below. This adds strength to that strake and also provides support so I can dry-fit the forward plank group. I need to do this to be sure where the strake actually ends because that is where the above-deck deck beam will need to be located. As currently cut, the hole can be expanded 1/16" fore or aft as needed. Hole cut and beam installed. I had to install the forward section of the center row of deck planks because it tucks under the beam. You can tell the diff between the stained and unstained planks. I left the remainder unplanked. This allows me to pick up the model without having to touch the delicate edges.

Eric, Please let us know when this can be viewed online.

BEFORE installing the top strake? I agree anything glued in place is strong...where it is glued. It is my experience is that I install all the frames and don't immediately 'cover' them with a plank, I will eventually snap one or more off. As I said, I am quite sausage fingered.

Progress continues, but it is slow. I keep popping the glue joints. I am at a very delicate phase of the model. The first strake above the main deck overlaps the one below by only 1MM along most of the hull and edge glued at bow and stern. Supporting false frames and uprights are not added until later. My sausage-fingered handling of the model often cause a seam to pop. Huzzah!!!! Equilibrium! The plan says to install the false bulkheads first, then the support structure fore and aft. The false frames are spaced a quarter inch apart along the length of the hull and stick up until the top strake is added. Sixty six vulnerable pieces waiting to be snapped off. I decided to do the fore and aft support structures first. Added strength with only 2 breakables. "Safety caps" added.

Rodolfo, I thought about that but once dry the difference is alot less. Pressing on.

Cold as well.🥶

I have purchased cherry and maple from Ocooch. Good quality. Great service. Custom thickness as well.

I have used Higgins Sepia calligraphy ink, treated with Renaissance archival wax for standing rigging. I needed to use several coats of ink to get it dark enough, but still probably should have been darker. (Note 1. Most kit standing rigging is black but if you look at some of Chuck's past post on rigging, the consensus is that true pine tar rigging was a very dark brown. Note 2, Higgins ink is not water resistent. The archival wax kind of waterproofs it and is non-acid, unlike beeswax. I am hoping to get a Syren ropewalk soon (if Chuck doesn't sell out the next batch before I can jump in) but am unsure if I will be up, running and fully functional (i.e. making good rope) before I am ready to rig my current project. I am experimenting with a mixture black and sepia Dr. Ph. Martin's Bombay India Ink. They both are supposed to be waterproof.

Some progress. Much time waiting for stain to dry and I went to the beach. Isn't it 75 degrees everywhere? I finished decking 6 of the 7 main deck panels. According to the plans, at this point I should have completed the bow, stern and furthest outboard port and starboard panel. Not sure why interior panels are not completed. I wanted to stain and preserve the deck before I continued with hull planking and so to ensure consistent color, I decked all but center panel. I was going to do all, but for some reason I remembered I should keep the center unplanked. Oh! Now I remember why I wanted to leave the center unplanked. My effort to be consistent went for naught. Despite being stained at the same time, the two inner panels are slightly different...no doubt due to difference in wood. NATURAL stain used. Hull planking continues.

I would use the pin vise. I find it more controllable in situations like this.

Sometimes the ol' five fingered clamp is your best option. It provides subtle angles and levels of pressure other clamps cannot.

Thankee. I appreciate it.

Eric, Having modeled the Missouri River boat FAR WEST, I am interested in this topic. Unfortunately I have another event at the same time. Will this be available for streaming on YouTube after the event?

Practice complete and installation attempted. Two out of the five (4 of 10) holes were encumbered by bulkheads, but I was able to work around (or thru) that. Installation of all under deck beams complete. I still have one above deck beam, but that will come later. Not to bad, even close up. When stained, you should not see any issues. Putting the deck into place. Before I forget, emplace support blocks for the pedestals. I wish I had thought of this sooner...I would have placed the blocks below the 'lower deck'.

Will the YassiAda anchor have a stock?

How thin? I used very small ( 1 or 2 mm) bamboo pegs for my channels on SULTANA and it worked great. I use that on alot of the fragile deck furniture. Drill an appropriate sized hole using a micro drill bit. I believe I used #76. Using my Dremel as a lathe (kind of) and fine sand paper (220 or 400) I work a small piece of split bamboo BBQ skewer to the correct diameter, then glue in using wood glue. Test fit first. Bamboo is very strong for its size.

What time frame?