Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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Weird. Hey, I am browsing here. I guess I will survive. Time for a beer. -
Minor but vexing issue. In the last couple of weeks I have noticed I do not show up in the "Recently Browsed" section of posts I am looking at. I am able to "like", post and respond. I see other people, but not me. Additionally, I DO show up in "Who's online". What's up?
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Huh? I have never seen clinker with drop/stop planks. Is this viable? The other option would be to slightly increase the rise at bow and stern. Your lathe looks like mine. Good thing they didn't have tubas.
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Sounds like a nice manageable size. If I make the Zimmerman model I would want to go 1:72 like my cog. It pencils out t a little over 12 inches.
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You have selected a great model. Don't worry about making mistakes. That is how you learn. Rubbing alcohol is your friend. I have used it many times to unglue a mistake and make it right.
- 560 replies
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- vanguard models
- alert
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Joseph, Welcome to "The Grand Society of Philadelphia Builders".
- 32 replies
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- Model Shipways
- Philadelphia
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Steven, How long will your model be? I know you said 1:75, but I saw no specific dimensions.
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Christian, On pages 23-27 he has 14 different seals; Santander, La Rochelle, Dunwich, Romney, Southampton, San Sebastian, Pevesey, Hastings, Rye, Hythe, Yarmouth, Dover, Nieuport and Faversham. He has Winchelsea and Sandwich prominently displayed elsewhere. On pages 105 thru 111 he has the diagrams I mentioned of all but the first 2. Steven, I think you made a good choice. As you mentioned previously, Winnie is one of the more artistic seals and it is very clearly rendered.
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My copy of the Zimmerman book and plans has arrived. The plans are slightly different than the model depicted by Christian. Not sure why. The plans include a crow's nest castle (mast castle?) whereas the model does not. I don't speak or read German, but I was able to follow the jist of the book. In one chapter he traces the development of the ship from the Viking longboat and knarr thru the cog. He makes references to various maritime archeological finds. I concur that you are on the right track. I believe the Zimmerman model/plan is a composite of various nefs. He features many sigels/seals from the Cinque Ports area and even has 'reconstructions' (diagrams) of them. The Hythe seal is featured but the Haverford West is not. For me, the Sandwich seal appears to be closest...but again, I believe his aim is a generic nef.
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Many thanks. Interesting. I have never applied WOP BEFORE a stain. I would have thought it blocks absorption.
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Once applied and dried, do you finish it with anything? Tung Oil😛, Wipe on Poly?
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Lyle, Are you going to encase it?
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As I mentioned in my log, there were 2 documents-the book and the report. The report can be downloaded from the net. From a quick glance, 75-90% of the material is the same, but each has some stuff the other does not. Both the book and report were based on early findings. I wonder if anything has been published as a follow-up.
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- Sea of Galilee boat
- SE Miller
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Lyle, Looking good. I like the finish. The excavation report indicates that there may have been floor boards/deck boards as you have modeled. Floor boards were not found with the wreck, but this is easily explained since they would have been salvaged before the boat was abandoned.
- 83 replies
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- Sea of Galilee boat
- SE Miller
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STEP over. Druxey noted in post 17 and Steven in post 20 that the beams were a bit high over the deck in the model I posted in post 10. This is very evident in the other pictures on the website indicated. The beams were thigh to waist high. In post 21 I noted that the model of the Hedeby 3 knarr that Steven was using as a reference also had high beams--more like s\thwarts or speaders than deck beams. The SANDWICH diagram looks like the beams are at deck level but the WINCHELSEA is unclear. If I make the beams ABOVE the deck level, they should be low enough that the sailors could easily step over.
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And now we begin, for real. This kit has us planking from the gunwale (gunn’l) to the keel. Each strake is a single plank. In real life there would be mortise and tenon joints but… Once the planking is complete, I will mark the butt joints. The first two strakes on each side are untapered planks. After that, we use pre-tapered planks supplied with the kit. See Lyle’s build log for specifics. The location of the first plank is pretty easy. The frames are set up with a notched ledge to take the first strake. The plank meets the sternpost right on the edge. There is a slight thickness on this end. The plank meets the stempost as if it is rabbeted. Here I have the plank come to a point. I will eventually strengthen these joints by pegging them with 1mm bamboo pegs. Once the first 2 strakes were in, I taped the edges of the frames and attempted to line off the hull to get numbers so I could taper. I doesn’t show up well on camera, so I enhanced. IIRC the references say there are 14 strakes. Scott recommended a clamp with sandpaper glued to the jaws to assist in holding the stern planks in place. Not sure why he did not do the same for the bow. Soak the plank and clamp in place until dry. Now the edge is beveled so it mates properly with the plank below (above). If all goes well, I will see you at the turn of the bilge.
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I have not gotten that far yet. I will give it a try. Thanks
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Landström shows those 'bumps' as well, on both SANDWICH and WINCHELSEA. With SANDWICH you can see the deck. The beams appear to be at deck level and the higher up beam do appear to support raised foredeck and poopdeck.
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I dusted off my copy of the Fircks book and found that the model I posted was NOT a good representation of the Fircks plans. This drawing from the book is close to the plans. Here is an approximation of what the castles look like from above-not triangles. He also includes several town seals, although not in color like Steven's. Winchelsea, Dunwich and Yarmouth all show through-beams. On Yarmouth they appear high up but the other 2 appear lower than depicted on the Fircks model. I think if I use the Fircks plans I need to change the beams and/or deck so that the beams are low enough to step over.
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Lyle, Many thanks. I was not originally wild about AYC. I prefer boxwood, but I have not won the lottery yet, so.... It bends well and edge bends well. My major complaint is that it dents easily, so I need to be careful with the clamps. It smells great too. Chuck at SYREN and Joe at MODELER'S SAWMILL both carry it.
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Not so fast… The model is built ‘shell first’ on a strong back, then framed. The locations of the strongback frames are marked on the provided baseboard. Marking the centerlines of each frame, I was able to easily assemble the strongback. The sternpiece and keel are already assembled and the center marking of the frames allowed me to install the sternpiece/keel. These are NOT glued to the frames. I did not see any specific locations for the stem, but it was easy to figure out. A NOTE ON WOOD: Scott says most of the wood used for the model is mahogany. While I am not a wood expert, this does not appear to be any mahogany I have worked with. It is soft and coarse grain. Despite soaking and taking care, I snapped the first plank I tried to bend. I decided to go with Alaskan Yellow Cedar (AYC) I had from SYREN. I have worked with that wood before and like it, although it is also soft. UNFORTUNATELY, my AYC is 14 inches long and I need about 16 inches. :- ( I came up with a scheme to laminate the planks so there would be 2 joints and it would hopefully survive the rigors of severe bending. Remember, the planks are not affixed to the frames. The downside to this is (1) it is very time consuming and (b) the finished product cannot be soaked. Joe Volpe at MODELER’S SAWMILL to the rescue!!!! His wood is also normally 14 inches, but he was able to cut me some sheets 18 inches.
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