Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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I do as well. It works great for my older corded Dremel but my newer non-corded has a smaller circumference and does dot fit. I asked Larry if he makes an adapter. He does not. 😒 -
Sometimes. That is what my Dremel is for.
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I agree with Mark and Gregory...look into the NRG Planking Tutorial. It is much more than a "Read this or watch that" tutorial. It involves actually planking a half hull. I know that doesn't answer your original question...but it actually does. "Using planking (shipbuilding) methods they originally used" is complicated and not completely replicatable on a plank on bulkhead model. The tutorial teaches you about spiling,tapering, cheaters and spacers (and maybe edge bending) so your planking comes out right. Some start with the wale and work up and down. I like Mastini's recommendo about starting a half plank below deck level. It allows the next plank up to overlap (strength) and give space for waterways, etc.
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Here is one I like alot. It handles the really small micro bits and is VERY comfortable in the hand. I got it from a local hobby shop (model train) but it is also available online.
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Excellent work on the carlings and ledges. Practicing on the covered side is like practicing on the first layer of a double planked hull-your mistakes will not show.
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I had similar results with my hold, but for different reasons. Test staining of structural pieces (frames) proved less than satisfactory. I ended up using wood dye (brown in the lower areas and a mix of brown and golden yellow above deck). The brown was darker than I wanted but the brown/golden yellow got me close to what I wanted. I went with B/GY on the deck beams. My planking stain will be Golden Pecan rather than Golden Oak. At the end of the day, the 'rustic' lower deck may work out well. The various colored barrels give the cargo and lower deck a well used look. ...although if you are looking for pristine, that may not be what you want. Why did you go with Miniwax Poly BEFORE you stained? It seemed to me that would inhibit penetration.
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I will second the motion on walnut being too coarse-grainy and dark. I also find it too brittle. I love cherry for frames/bulkheads and some furniture, but not consistent for planking. For a model I hope to be a quality piece, I like boxwood for hull planking. works wee, sands well, staims well. A bit pricey these days, but... Another favourite is Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Not as hard as box. A little harder than basswood, but works and finishes well (IMO).
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I did too. I was just wondering if somebody had come up with a way to 'lay to rest' my old models.
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I was curious about the hull planting.
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Eyesplice or cow hitch on the ends. Clove hitch on all others.
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The San Diego Ship Modelers Guild and Beer Drinking Team will be taking this on as a community build. I think we have 12 folks diving in.
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Gunboat Philadelphia 1776 by tmj
Chuck Seiler replied to tmj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I don't know the details, I just saw it on Wikipedia. -
Gunboat Philadelphia 1776 by tmj
Chuck Seiler replied to tmj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Just the opposite. It seems to be in pretty good shape (considering) but ;they' don't want to make the same mistakes Lorenzo Hagglund made in 1935. He did a fair job with what he had available, but modern archeologist shudder. The Lake Champlain Maritime Museum announced in June 2017 a five-phase plan to raise and preserve the Spitfire, anticipating a cost of about $44 million and a timeframe of 22 years. -
Is that a deep fried, bacon wrapped, butter dipped, turkey leg sandwich I see in the background of post 95 pictures?
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Gunboat Philadelphia 1776 by tmj
Chuck Seiler replied to tmj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well, partially correct. Spitfire DID exist. She was damaged during the battle but managed to escape with the survivors, only to sink at Schyler's Island the next day. SPITFIRE was discovered in 1997, but never raised. The centerline COULD be a bit off. -
Gunboat Philadelphia 1776 by tmj
Chuck Seiler replied to tmj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I would not consider that a major discrepancy. How much is it off? 1/8". Given that nobody will see it and it is close enough given all the McGivering they did with the real gunboats, I don't think it is an issue. I know you are shooting for perfection, but... On the other hand, if you make a prototype and a finished, one can be Philly and one can be Spitfire (still at the bottom). -
18th Century Iron nails
Chuck Seiler replied to tmj's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Keith, Tom is working at is 1: 24 IIRC. That would be 3/64" across. -
18th Century Iron nails
Chuck Seiler replied to tmj's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Ooops. Sorry. For another project, I am planning on using 3/64" x 3/64" boxwood as a precursor for treenails. I will round them down using my Dremel. Perhaps doing that, but leaving a small bit of unrounded square part exposed (dyed or painted black) would do it. By my calculation, that would result in a scale 1.125" wide nailhead. -
18th Century Iron nails
Chuck Seiler replied to tmj's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
That's the way that I read it also, however. I'm also really interested in reading what is mentioned on all those missing pages. That may be true in most circumstances, and in many cases they would use tree nails, but the Philadelphia is a cow of a different color. They were not worried about iron corrosion or wood deterioration. They knew the vessels would not be around long enough for that to be a concern. They WERE concern about getting the flotilla built and underway as soon as possible. -
Great info.! Thanks
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The wreck in the Smithsonian shows nails above and below the waterline.
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Trunnels (tree nails) were installed perpendicular to the face of the plank. The trunnel was often split and a small wooden wedge driven into the center to expand the trunnel and keep it in place. HOWEVER...Philadelphia's external planking is nailed into place with iron nails. They didn't expect the ships to be around long so they were not concerned about them rusting. IRONically, the ship/boat AND the nails did survive and are on display in the Smithsonian 248 years later.
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Attachd are some representations of Continental frigates. The single one is, I believe, CONFEDERACY, but not sure. Continental frigates seem to have had wider 'stripes' above the wales and I buff or natural in color.
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