Chuck Seiler

I second Syren Ship Model Company

Welcome to MSW and model ship building, As CPDDET said, it is rewarding and sometime frustrating. When working compound curves, the wood often doesn't do what you think it is going to do. Fear not and worry not. Using wood glue, everything is fixable (sez the guy who has unglued most of his models at one point or another). Alcohol is your friend...scotch and isopropyl. ...and you can never have too many clamps.

The full sized one.

Yowza! How much beer would that thing hold?

You are never going to let me live that one down, are you?

Can you just unglue the cant frames?

She is Ukrainian. Her shirt says "Olha" and in her FAQ video she pronounces her name "OH-la".

Jerry, I think you will find that the skeleton will be surprisingly stable once the frames are inserted into the jig and glued to the keel, the keelson is added and the gunwales and clamps are added. Delicate, but stable.

Wouldn't it be better to fair the frames after assembly? That way you can ensure an even fair where the futtocks overlap.

While in the Navy, I got to see the underside of my destroyer while in drydock. I think red primer would be a good color. I know it is not acrylic, but....

Sorry. I quoted Bob Cleek, not you.

Huh? A sea going craft still needs to know which direction to go. (or I should say the people sailing the craft.)

Thickness or width...or both?

A follow on to Allen's point... attached is a photo of my SULTANA showing how the binnacle is secured to the deck. In retrospect, I could have used smaller eyebolts and line, but....

While definitely NOT an expert in planking (I struggle on a regular basis) I see some areas that might be helpful. I believe your garboard strake does not go far enough forward and bends down. I always have problems with the garbord, but getting it right is one key to proper planking. Continuing it as indicated gives a better angle for the next plank and sets up a better distance for follow-on planks. This allows the follow-on planks to be tapered to fit the hull, whether spiled or edge-bent.

Good luck Dick. I will drop in from time to time and take a look see. You and Louis da Fly keep drawing me back here.

Dave, A lesson in and of itself. You will find many discussions here regarding glues. IMHO superglue has its place but wood glue is best. Others disagree. Not sure ANYBODY likes foaming gorilla glue.

Hi Dave! Welcome aboard. Before getting philosophical, a suggestion. You mentioned "Careful cutting with an exacto blade separated the three keel pieces. ". If the parts were glued with wood glue these can easily be separated by soaking the joints in rubbing alcohol (cotton balls or Q tips work for me) for a bit, then separating with the exacto. Drinking from a firehose, indeed. A big newbie problem is coming aboard wanting to build a scratch built, fully framed HMS VICTORY or USS CONSTITUTION. They are quickly overwhelmed. It looks like you have chosen the more reasonable path of starting small and learning the 'trade'. I have found that even experienced wood workers learn new things when dealing with bendy-curvey hulls and compound curved planking. Read build logs of ships you are working on and ones you may work on...and ones that interest you. I have found valuable info from logs having nothing to do with the model I am working on. Use the archives and ask questions. That 'stupid question' you might be afraid to ask...we probably all asked it at some point. You don't learn if you don't ask. Don't be afraid to pull apart things that are not right. Errors compound. Wood is forgiving and easy to come by. Have fun!! There will be times of frustration when things don't work out (at least for me there were) but think it through and it will work out (usually). And remember, you can never have too many clamps.

I love the 'picnic tables' but I am not sure how useful they would be on a ship in heavy seas. Been there. Done that with bolted down tables. I guess those pirates are a hardier breed than I. Keep up the great work.

Chuck, What is the estimated size of this beastie?

Dr. Crisman gave the presentation but the dissertation was by Eric Emery. It is unpublished and you have to go thru TAMU to get it. The dissertation appears to have been completed in 2003 but I want to say Dr. Crisman's presentation at the SMA conference in Long Beach was 2002. I asked about ARROW and ALLEN, he rattled off several areas of difference...but I am very certain one was based on the other. Good luck with the flag.

1. A good source for images of almost any flag you would want. https://www.crwflags.com/fotw/flags/ 2. My understanding is the model ARROW was based loosely on the gunboat ALLEN. It was the subject of a doctoral paper by (forgot the name) at Texas A&M University. Maritime archeologist Kevin Cristman from that organization gave a presentation on that ship/boat at the SMA conference in the 90s. CHuck

Thanks for the offer. I already have the aspen and maple in hand...just deciding which looks best.

I have always liked holly for my decks, however it is becoming harder to come by. For my next project I am looking at maple or aspen. Not asked, but answered...I use #2 pencil on 1 plank edge to simulate caulking. Yellow wood glue.

SPHYNX without the waterline is a different look. I like it! Well done BE.