Chuck Seiler
-
Posts
1,784 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
-
Most white stuff I see is too stark white in my opinion. I think holly would do nicely. -
The description specifically references a figurehead. The ship in the print has no figurehead.
-
Wow! Looks really good. You seem to have mastered those pesky cant frames. The idea of disassembling the jig to remove the completed framed hull is interesting.
-
Allan, I don't know where I got that info from. Maybe an actual quote or I merely deduced it from looking at plans. My memory on the subject of galleons is that the frame futtocks were not fastened together as they were in the 18th and early 19th century. Rather, they were fastened to a pair of wales and envisioned in the attached diagram. Keith, I find it hard to believe they are more 'rub rails'. As Allan pointed out, in the multi deck SOLs of the 18th/19th century you have wales well above where any other ship or pier would contact, If they don't serve as a place to anchor the knees, they are at least longitudinal structural members designed to strengthen the hull... along with internal stringers. Of course Joshua Humphries took the internal strengthening to a whole new level with CONSTITUTION.
-
It was my understanding that the wale(s) is/are a longitudinal structural member. Thicker than a normal strake, it provides heft for the knees to be bolted to. Larger ships had multiple wales. If the wale does not follow the deck sheer, this must not be true. What IS the purpose of the wale?
-
Good job!!
-
Very nice. What wood are you using for planking and doors, etc?
-
My experience is kind of a blend of KGSTAKES and Jacques. I went with the pen because I thought it would be easier touching up small parts rather than applying stain-from-the-can with a toothpick. The color is not bad, but as I said, my experience is that it is different from the can. Also, as pointed out, if you press too hard it comes out too much. I had to press down off-work to get it flowing, then go to the piece. Whatever works.
-
I have used them. The one I used was not wax, but indeed stain. The problem was the stain in the pen was not the same color as the stain in the can, even though they had the same name (golden oak). I agree with Gregory, go with the original 'in the can' stain.
-
I see, the inaccuracies are within the plan itself. Very true. It is very frustrating when you have what appears to be a good set of plans, but AFTER you start working on it you find the various parts of the plan are not reconciled with each other. I guess learning that, and learning what things you need to verify early on are part of the 'gaining experience' process. Looking good so far.
-
Gusar, Please define 'inaccuracies'. Since there is no record of the details of the Santa Maria, there is alot of leeway in the building process. The build looks good so far. What other builds have you done?
-
Many thanks. Camber is currently the correct term for the transverse curve (down on the sides) of the deck, correct? I seem to remember that from my navy days as well.
-
Is this correct? I've long understood camber to be the transversal curve of the deck, while the longitudinal curve is sheer.
-
I partially agree. The supports would have to hold the weight of the men and the structure. The supports shown, while spindly, are still sufficient to support that weight and more if the weight is bearing straight down. Lateral sheering forces come into play when the ship rolls. The English Channel can be rough at times and I don't know if sailing was suspended during heavy seas. I would think a roll of more than 30 degrees would put quite a lateral strain on the supports if not braced. ...on the other hand, as I said before, with one exception I have never seen these braced.
-
I remember seeing somewhere, I don't recall if it was in ZIMMERMAN or FIRSCH...or maybe a model, where there was crossbracing of the castles using line. I have only seen it in the one place, but given the flimsy nature of the supports this makes sense to avoid collapsing when the ship rolled. Thoughts?
-
Evergreen also makes styrene strips. However, if I was going to do what you are doing, I would use wood. You will get better compound curves. As Steven mentioned, the deck of a nef is higher than that of a longship. The nef is a cargo ship whereas the longship is not. Even the Viking knarr, which the nef is closer to than the longship, has a lower deck. Checking my Werner Zimmerman nef plans against a knarr, I find the deck is almost at the top of the gunwale. Also as Steven mentioned, you would want to put some under deck thru-beams to support the deck. The attached photo shows the thru-beams better than Steven's photo. I don't know where I got the pic, so I cannot properly credit it, but I believe it is of the Zimmerman model. The thru-beams are circled. The curve of the bow and stern would have to be altered to reflect the proper nef angle and probably to raise it up high enough to accomodate the additional freeboard,
-
My plan was similar to yours-general fairing (faring?) before assembling, then fine tuning once assembled. IIRC, you have to do some fairing or else the frame will not fit into the jig.
-
Rob, Welcome to the Shallop Build. I have planked the hull and fine tuning before working the interior. I have not started a buildlog because........ anywho A couple recommendos: 1. Be careful with the cant frames. Several people (including myself) had problems with those. I found that, while the frame building jigs for the square frames worked great, the jigs for the cants had alot to be desired. I ended up building the cant frames onto the hull, using the framing jig as an aid. Hard to explain but once I started it, it made sense. 2. When you fair your frames, be sure to take it to the line...and maybe a few sandpaper swipes beyond. I was not as observant and when I planked, many of my planks ended up being a millimeter too short. 😪 Good luck. I look forward to your build.
-
What color/brand of red did you use for your bulwarks?
-
Staining
Chuck Seiler replied to Eindride's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Am I hearing this correctly?- 1. If I intend on staining all or part of a model's hull I need to stain the planks BEFORE I affix them to the frames/bulkheads? 2. A coat of Minwax stain is thicker than paint and therefore is out of scale? I'm skeptical on both. -
IIRC, British admirals were graded by seniority (Rear, vice full) and within grade (red, white, blue). At Trafalgar, Nelson was vice admiral of the white. Ships directly under the command of that admiral would fly the admiral's colour. Since ships operating independently and squadrons under command of a non-admiral worked for a particular admiral or area commander in chief, they would fly his colour.
-
I have attached all frames and am about to start the planking. The non-cant frames look great and will not pose any future problem (I hope). The cant frames DID take some patience. If I were to do this again, I would NOT make the cant frames in the provided jigs and, instead, make them off model and install when the rest of the frame is in the framing jig. These frames must be beveled on both sides to accommodate (a) the eventual planking and (b) attachment to the keel/tab. The bottom of frames 1 and 24 are extremely small and required much care in sanding. Once I could seen EXACTLY what kind of bevels I needed, the task became easier. That being said, it does take patience, but not much more than you would need to correctly make any model. This certainly is not a slap-it-together model...but I think the end result will be well worth it.
Our Emblem ®
