Chuck Seiler
-
Posts
1,852 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
-
Evergreen also makes styrene strips. However, if I was going to do what you are doing, I would use wood. You will get better compound curves. As Steven mentioned, the deck of a nef is higher than that of a longship. The nef is a cargo ship whereas the longship is not. Even the Viking knarr, which the nef is closer to than the longship, has a lower deck. Checking my Werner Zimmerman nef plans against a knarr, I find the deck is almost at the top of the gunwale. Also as Steven mentioned, you would want to put some under deck thru-beams to support the deck. The attached photo shows the thru-beams better than Steven's photo. I don't know where I got the pic, so I cannot properly credit it, but I believe it is of the Zimmerman model. The thru-beams are circled. The curve of the bow and stern would have to be altered to reflect the proper nef angle and probably to raise it up high enough to accomodate the additional freeboard,
-
My plan was similar to yours-general fairing (faring?) before assembling, then fine tuning once assembled. IIRC, you have to do some fairing or else the frame will not fit into the jig.
-
Rob, Welcome to the Shallop Build. I have planked the hull and fine tuning before working the interior. I have not started a buildlog because........ anywho A couple recommendos: 1. Be careful with the cant frames. Several people (including myself) had problems with those. I found that, while the frame building jigs for the square frames worked great, the jigs for the cants had alot to be desired. I ended up building the cant frames onto the hull, using the framing jig as an aid. Hard to explain but once I started it, it made sense. 2. When you fair your frames, be sure to take it to the line...and maybe a few sandpaper swipes beyond. I was not as observant and when I planked, many of my planks ended up being a millimeter too short. 😪 Good luck. I look forward to your build.
-
What color/brand of red did you use for your bulwarks?
-
Staining
Chuck Seiler replied to Eindride's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Am I hearing this correctly?- 1. If I intend on staining all or part of a model's hull I need to stain the planks BEFORE I affix them to the frames/bulkheads? 2. A coat of Minwax stain is thicker than paint and therefore is out of scale? I'm skeptical on both. -
IIRC, British admirals were graded by seniority (Rear, vice full) and within grade (red, white, blue). At Trafalgar, Nelson was vice admiral of the white. Ships directly under the command of that admiral would fly the admiral's colour. Since ships operating independently and squadrons under command of a non-admiral worked for a particular admiral or area commander in chief, they would fly his colour.
-
I have attached all frames and am about to start the planking. The non-cant frames look great and will not pose any future problem (I hope). The cant frames DID take some patience. If I were to do this again, I would NOT make the cant frames in the provided jigs and, instead, make them off model and install when the rest of the frame is in the framing jig. These frames must be beveled on both sides to accommodate (a) the eventual planking and (b) attachment to the keel/tab. The bottom of frames 1 and 24 are extremely small and required much care in sanding. Once I could seen EXACTLY what kind of bevels I needed, the task became easier. That being said, it does take patience, but not much more than you would need to correctly make any model. This certainly is not a slap-it-together model...but I think the end result will be well worth it.
-
What news everybody? I have started the shallop in earnest. I am making it while manning the shipmodeling booth at our county fair. I assembled and faired most of the frames prior to the fair, but I didn't want to assemble the framing jig until I got there. I will eventually do a build log, but not until I get further along. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. The cant frames are really giving me trouble. I was able to make 1 and 2, but had trouble getting them into the jig. It seems as though the keel slots and the slots for the 2 pieces in the jig are not exact, so over the length if they line up at the bow, they are a MM or so off at the stern. Frame 22 wasn't bad, but I am having trouble fitting it into the jig. Frames 23 and 24 will have to be assembled in the jig. Sadness reigns. What have you guys come up with?
-
Howdy! And welcome aboard.
-
Doesn't this also apply at the human (or any organism) level. Human cells die and are replaced regularly. While the frequency varies from organ and cell type to another they are all eventually replaced within a few years. Quite literally, "I ain't the man I used to be", but I am still me.
-
A tool/resource/attribute often overlooked is 'patience'. There will be times when things are not progressing fast enough, or things are not working out as planned. Those are the times when you back away and either not worry about the speed of the progress, or slow down and work out how to solve the issue, and/or have a beer.
-
I think they were placed there simply to perplex future modelers and researchers.
-
Which one is Ragnar? A couple suggestions, if I may. 1. I recommend using a harder, finer grained wood than basswood. I personnaly like boxwood, but I am sure there are others. Folks here can advise better than I. Rockler, or other stores in your area might have small pieces of a suitable wood (for practice and final version). Alternative-check with the wood vendors that are MSW sponsors. You may be able to get suitable sized boxwood custom cut, rather than getting a big hunk. B. Be sure to scarph your figurehead. See attached (yellow lines highlight scarphed seams).
-
Next NRG Conference
Chuck Seiler replied to YankeeClipper's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Sadly so. We are still hiding from COVID. -
Frank, You are only talking about the cant frames, correct?
-
Nooooooo. Not CA. If there are issues, it is much harder to unglue. I recommend regular wood glue, but holding in place until it sets. I find that my hands are the best clamps I have. Its a bit tedious, but you can hold it whilst watching TV.
-
Jerry, What is/are the issue(s) with the frames? Bad angle? Too wide?
-
Also check out Chris' article about starting out. If you want to get as much as you can out of this hobby, you will be doing alot of research and questioning. You found an excellent website for that. After you settle on the model you want, you will want to know which tools to get. That topic also exists. Happy modeling...and remember, you can never have too many clamps.
-
Try Amazon. I have purchased individual AK paints from there.
-
What will the final size be for that? By my calculation, it appears to be a little over a foot at the deck. Is that right?
- 57 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Trial
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Looking good! "Pointy end" "Other pointy end"
- 56 replies
-
- 5
-
-
-
- Sea of Galilee Boat
- SE Miller
- (and 1 more)
-
It sounds like you walked away from the first attempt with not much more experience, but alot more wisdom. The fact that you are trying again tells me much. This hobby is very much about going back and fixing things that went wrong. As mentioned above, sanding here or there, making a new piece, adding another layer of planking. I am a big fan of going back, ungluing something that is not right and doing it over again. This includes a large swath of planking. The first time around you find out how NOT to do it and hopefully gain insight on how TO do it. As Keith said,sometimes when you hit a snag you just have to set it aside. Sometimes I will do that for a couple days and my mind will work on the problem. As a friend and fellow modeler once told me 'if you can draw it, you can make it'. It need not be an engineers dream diagram, but sometimes if you pencil it out it makes more sense. No screw up is a complete lost. I had an old schooner ENTERPRISE model (y'all know the one) I screwed up. I kept it and later used it to experiment on before I tried the same thing on a "keeper" model. Good luck and remember, patience is one of the most important tools in our kit.
-
Do we know what kind of ship it was? Hulk, caravel, carrack? 1495 was only three years after Columbus "discovered" America, but managed to NOT find a route to the Indies (where many of these spices came from). I don't recall if the Portuguese had established a route around Africa by then, or not. I don't think so. As a result, all trade from the spice areas was dominated by the Arabs/Muslims and subject to significant price hikes. The king and extremely wealthy were likely the only ones to afford them.
-
Looking good Jerry. Be careful not to sand down too much or else it may throw off the alignment. I noticed that with the frame jig the charring was in ridges. I think if you lightly sand the charring to where the ridges are smooth but you still have some color...AND...smoothing the frame faces, you will get a snug (but not too snug) fit. Little at a time. You can always take more off. Harder to put more back on.
Our Emblem ®
